How many types of Hanbok, how to distinguish between the forms

While there are many complicated styles of Hanbok, and there are dresses, regular clothes, and special clothes, they are carefully analyzed and divided into three main types according to their overall structure.

1. The "deep garment" system in which the "upper garment and lower garment" are connected together. The most typical of these is the "Shamakiri" system, in which the upper and lower garments are connected. Because it is connected to the top and bottom, "the body is deep," called the deep clothes. These include the straight-train deep coat, the curved-train deep coat, the robe, the straight-jacket, the pasted piece, and the long shirt, etc., which belong to the category of the long coat.

2, including the coronation dress, XuanDuan, etc., is the official dress of the monarch and officials to participate in ceremonies and other solemn rituals. As the name suggests it is divided into clothes worn on top and clothes worn underneath. Since ancient times, the Chinese dress, advocating the top and bottom of the garment, and the provisions of the "clothing color, clothing color", that is to say, the top of the garment is the color of the correct and pure one, the bottom of the garment is the color of the interlacing.

3. The "襦襦" system, which includes the chest jacket, waist jacket and lapel jacket, also belongs to the system of "top coat and bottom garment", but it does not have a lot of etiquette and is generally used for regular clothes.

The jacket is also the biggest reflection of the upper and lower cut system of clothing. "Three sides of the hair, two cuts of clothing" became the description of the traditional woman's dress characteristics .

Extended information:

p>1, the basic structure:

Hanfu using a width of two feet and two inches (50cm) of cloth and silk cut into, and is divided into a collar, lapel, obeisance, dickey, train, sleeves, sleeves, sleeves, belt, kneepad and other ten parts. Take two equal lengths of cloth, respectively, folded, as the front lapel and back train, sewing the back center seam. The front placket without obeisance is a straight-necked bodice. If you take another piece of cloth, cut it into two overlapping pieces, and sew them on the left and right lapels, then it is a slanting-collar right-overlapping garment.

The center seam of the front lapel and the back train is called the grub, i.e., the dukkha and ren vein, and the obeisance is on the right side of the ren vein, so it is called right-over-obeisance. The length of the train is divided into the middle of the waist, above the knee and above the foot. According to the length of the train, there are three lengths of Hanfu: 襦, caftan, and deep coat. The seam between the sleeve and the train is called the gusset, and the cuffs are called the cuffs. A complete Hanbok usually has three layers: a small coat (undergarment), a medium coat, and a large coat.

2. Cross-collar right-overlapping

The most typical collar type of Hanbok is "cross-collar right-overlapping", which means that the collar of the garment is directly connected with the lapel, and the lapels are crossed in front of the chest, and the left lapel presses down on the right lapel, which is in the shape of "y", forming the overall garment to the right, which is in the shape of "y", and the whole garment is in the shape of "y". The left side of the lapel pressed against the right side of the lapel, and the appearance of the "y" shape, forming the effect of the overall clothing tilted to the right. Obeisance, the original meaning of the lapel. The left front lapel cover to the right armpit tie, the right lapel cover in, said right obeisance, and vice versa, said left obeisance.

Another complement to the "cross collar" is the "straight collar" and "disk collar". A straight collar is one that comes down parallel and perpendicular from the chest without crossing at the chest, and some are tied at the chest, while others are left open without a tie.

3, praise clothes and wide sleeves:

The sleeves of Hanfu, also known as "袂", are unique in the entire history of the world's national costumes. Sleeves, in fact, are round shirts, representing the heavenly circle in the heavenly circle. Sleeves wide and long is a distinctive feature of the gown sleeve shape in Hanbok, but not all Hanbok are like this.

"Sleeve width and length" is the main feature of the Hanbok dress sleeve type, but not the only style features, Hanbok small sleeves, short sleeves are also more common. There are mainly these uses: to participate in the daily physical labor of the people's clothing, soldiers and generals of the military uniforms, to take their tight sleeves to keep warm in the winter clothing, and so on.

4, lacing hidden buttons:

Hidden buttons in Hanbok, in fact, including buckle and no buckle two cases. Generally, Hanbok is not used to buckle, even if there is a buckle, but also to hide the buckle, and not show outside. It is usually just a strap with a knot to tie the clothes. Also, there are large and long belts at the waist.

All belts are made from the same fabric used to make the dress. There are two pairs of belts for a dress, practical ones, one belt for the left armpit and the belt for the right lapel are tied in a pair of knots, the belt for the right armpit is tied in a pair of knots with the belt for the left lapel, and the two pairs of belts are tied in a pair of knots to complete the dressing process.

Baidu Encyclopedia: Hanbok