Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional customs - Summarize the changes of modern brewing industry in China.

Summarize the changes of modern brewing industry in China.

During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, until the middle of Qing Dynasty, both southern wine and northern wine and yellow rice wine were the mainstream world. The so-called northern wine is a wine world dominated by all kinds of yellow wine produced in the north; Jiu Nan is yellow rice wine with Jiangsu and Zhejiang as the core. about

After that, due to the gradual decrease of social wealth and constant wars, grain production began to decrease, and the economic value of yellow rice wine was not as good as that of shochu, and it was gradually replaced by the latter. At present, only Shandong and Shanxi have a small amount of production, so that during the Republic of China,

Dai, when people talk about Beijiu, they take it for granted that it is shochu.

The mystery of the origin of distilled liquor

When did China distilled liquor originate? At present, there are several theories about the origin in the Eastern Han Dynasty, the Tang Dynasty, the Song Dynasty and the Yuan Dynasty. Among them, the theory of the origin of the Yuan Dynasty originated from the old theory, which is evidenced by the records of people in the Yuan Dynasty, while the theory of the Eastern Han Dynasty and the theory of the Jin Dynasty are all based on handed down cultural relics or unearthed discoveries. However, Wang Saishi of Shandong Academy of Social Sciences and Ji Sun, an archaeologist of the National Museum, both suggested that the theory of the Yuan Dynasty was more reliable.

Throughout the historical documents, from the Eastern Han Dynasty to the Song Dynasty, there was no sign of wine distillation in the form of words. There are scattered historical materials about "shochu" and "distilled liquor" in the Tang and Song Dynasties, but shochu before the Song Dynasty did not belong to distillation.

Alcohol refers to grain fermented wine that has been heated at low temperature. "Steaming wine" in Song Dynasty also refers to sterilizing wine by heating and preserving it for a long time. After the Yuan Dynasty, shochu was distilled liquor, and today we call it liquor.

Liquor is the official title given to shochu after the founding of New China.

The theory of Jin Dynasty originated from a distiller obtained in Xishanzui Village, Qinglong County, Chengde City, Hebei Province when 1975 opened the river, which is very similar to the modern pot wine steamer. The local cultural relics department also tried it, but the alcohol content was very high.

Less, and the alcohol content is very low, it should be that the local experiment does not conform to the method of taking wine in Yuan Dynasty. Ji Sun found that the drip tile of Yuan Dynasty was also unearthed in the place where the distiller was unearthed, so he was inclined to think that this cultural relic did not actually belong to it.

In the Jin Dynasty, or the Yuan Dynasty, if the old things are distilled according to the distillation method of the Yuan Dynasty, the brewed jujube wine and wine will be distilled with this unearthed cultural relic, and a very good high-quality wine will be distilled. If this thing is the product of the Yuan Dynasty, then it is a.

It's easy to explain. Literature and object constitute an interpretation system.

Many experts compared this kind of vessel and found that it was consistent with the shape and liquid distillation method of the distiller described in the literature of Yuan Dynasty. In addition, in addition to single-person utensils, Jiangxi also discovered the relic of brewing distilled liquor in the Yuan Dynasty-Du Li Invisible.

Tang shochu workshop site. Except for unearthed cultural relics, the records of old history began in the Yuan Dynasty. For example, "Compendium of Materia Medica" records: "Soju is not an ancient law, and it was founded in the Yuan Dynasty. Its method is to steam gas with strong liquor and spoiled food.

Use a container to hold dew. "

Yellow rice wine in Ming and Qing dynasties

From the Yuan Dynasty to the Ming Dynasty, although shochu was invented, not many people drank it. At that time, the obvious confrontation was not between shochu and yellow rice wine, but between wine produced in the south and wine produced in the north, which was also an important era in the history of wine development in China.

Beijiu has a vast territory, represented by Beijing, Hebei, Shandong and Henan. In addition to the vast territory, the production process is also very traditional. The production of yellow rice wine, shochu and dew wine is called respecting the ancient method and the consumption is also high. Nine difficult Jiangsu and Zhejiang as the core producing areas have always been

In fact, Shaoxing yellow rice wine does not respect the ancient method so much, and contains many new technologies. After the mid-Qing Dynasty, Beijiu's reputation was gradually replaced by Jiu Nan. The difference between the two regional styles became the wine world of that era.

The biggest feature.

At that time, yellow rice wine was dominant in the whole fermented wine industry, and the brewing technology was more mature and perfect. People call wine with long fermentation time, dark color and storage resistance "old wine". Many "old wines" of Beijiu are also very popular in the south because of their pure workmanship.

In the system of Beijiu, many classic yellow rice wines were born in Hebei, among which Tibetan wine and appropriate wine are typical Beipai yellow rice wines. In Shanxi, the origin of Fenjiu, yellow wine is also very popular.

There are two kinds of northern yellow rice wine: sweet and bitter. For example, Shanxi yellow rice wine is called "sweet south wine" and "bitter south wine". The yellow rice wine in Beijing is called "sweet fried" and "bitter clear"; Shandong yellow rice wine can be divided into sweetness and bitterness. Sweet yellow rice wine tastes sweet and greasy.

No alcohol. Bitter yellow rice wine tastes like southern wine, and Shandong people usually like to drink the latter. But with the passage of time, people don't know that Hebei and other places used to be the producing areas of famous yellow rice wine, and the brewing technology and relics have disappeared.

There is no difference between sweetness and bitterness in Jiu Nan. Jiangnan rice wine manufacturing introduced new technology from the beginning, unified procedures and unified wine spectrum regulations, unlike the northern region. Jiu Nan soon became a whole style and gradually spread in the north. By the middle of Qing Dynasty, Jiu Nan finally defeated Beijiu and became a precious gift.

Jiu Nan also has a reason to win, because when Jiu Nan is transported to the north, it will not go bad when it is cold, while when it is transported to the south, it will go bad when it is hot in summer. Jiu Nan's famous flower carving, Taiwan carving and daughter red are all produced in Shaoxing, Zhejiang.

How is the performance of shochu at this time? At that time, shochu continued to develop on the basis of the technology of Yuan Dynasty, and it was more and more widely accepted, which gradually influenced the change of people's drinking style. Fenjiu was very popular at that time, and the locals called it fire.

Liquor, where there is little liquor production, will choose Fenjiu when buying soju from other places. At that time, the governor of Gansu recorded that Fenjiu was the most popular liquor in the city. However, shochu did not shake the dominant position of yellow rice wine.

War and the rise of wine

The ruler's hobby influenced the acceptance of the lower class. The Qing court seldom drank the wine that the Ming people loved. The wine brewed by China traditional Daqu was gradually abandoned in Qing Dynasty and became a masterpiece.

However, the popularity of shochu is not due to the influence of taste. On the contrary, the economy has played a vital role. In the early Qing Dynasty, the harness of the Yellow River and the "washing sand" in the middle and lower reaches needed a lot of straw, which led to the increase of sorghum planting area. high

As a grain, Liang has a bad taste, but the quality of distilled liquor is better than other grains, and its alcohol content is higher. Therefore, brewing soju has become the most effective way to digest these miscellaneous grains.

Beijiu shochu began to surpass yellow rice wine, but after the middle of Qing Dynasty, the social drinking custom began to tilt towards shochu in an all-round way. Wang Saishi believes that the main reason is: "After the middle of Qing Dynasty, people's living standards have been declining, and the economic value of drinking is more economical." That is, yellow rice wine has low alcohol content but high price.

And it's not easy to get drunk when you drink too much. Soju has a high alcohol content and is easy to get drunk, so the drinking cost is much lower than that of yellow rice wine. In contrast to the expansion of shochu, the decline of yellow rice wine in this period. In the late Qing Dynasty, peasant uprisings in northern and southern provinces continued, and four wars occurred successively.

The canal route from Shaoxing yellow rice wine to Beijing and the land traffic to the south are often blocked by war. The yellow rice wine itself is not convenient for bumping and long-term storage, which seriously hinders sales. Because shochu is convenient for storage and long-distance trafficking, the wine industry

In underdeveloped areas, if you buy wine from other places, you will choose shochu.

After the mid-Qing dynasty, the war often made the crop harvest worse. At this time, the raw materials of rice wine, millet and glutinous rice, were not enough for ordinary people to eat, so the output of rice wine dropped sharply. Sorghum is inedible, but brewing can bring extra income to the people.

After hundreds of years of expansion, shochu finally reached the peak of output in the late Qing Dynasty.

Modern China and the Opportunity of Southwest Wine

In the early years of the Republic of China, there was no concept of famous brand shochu in China. Even though Maotai is gradually known, most people think that it is just a distant and expensive liquor, which has little to do with their own lives.

This is especially true for ordinary people. People in Beijing can hardly buy good Erguotou if they drink it for nothing. They all choose the big jars run by Shanxi people. The jar was covered with a wooden lid and used as a table. Several old brands of wine are all good, that is,

In order to ensure its purity, it is probably inevitable to mix water without doping pigeon droppings, red gongs and other strong substances. Jin Kemu also said that there is no need to be confined to any kind of wine. In the long run, any kind of wine will do. He drinks two kinds of wine for nothing, including Fenjiu, and

Lotus white, Aria, Cortex Acanthopanacis, red and white roses all feel good after drinking for a long time. This is an era when liquor has not been sold nationwide. No famous liquor can be famous all over the world, and everyone knows it and is eager to drink it.

After the Revolution of 1911, although the establishment of industry has become a new trend of thought, the brewing industry in China, a traditional industry with strong local genes, is still a relatively small workshop system, and with government control, the brewing industry has not developed greatly. Republic of China (19 12- 1949)

Like the Qing government, the government increased the collection of wine tax and set up a special collection and management agency. In addition, according to the customs tax records, wine is classified as a luxury, and the tax levied is as high as 70%. In the case of a slight famine, the local government

The government still focuses on people's livelihood and frequently implements the policy of banning alcohol. It is natural that it is difficult to sell wine from various small workshops to the whole country.

Government control is tight and loose. With the end of the Opium War, in order to raise the salary and increase the fiscal revenue of the Qing government, the local government relaxed the restrictions on the traditional brewing industry, and the brewing industry in the southwestern provinces gradually developed.

During the Republic of China, the trend of transferring salt industry capital to liquor industry promoted the development of liquor industry here. During this period, the development of Southwest Liquor became the driving force of modern liquor road in China.

Since the mid-Qing Dynasty, Sichuan has not experienced a long-term large-scale war. The combination of wine-making technology and consumption demand brought by immigrants into Sichuan with the original wine-making foundation of this province enabled the wine production in Sichuan to develop continuously from the late Qing Dynasty to the early Republic of China. During the development of Sichuan wine industry in the Republic of China, a number of famous wines were gradually formed, which became an important stage in the history of famous wines in Sichuan.

Luzhou Daqu, Mianzhu Daqu and other Daqu liquors were very famous in Sichuan in the Qing Dynasty and began to become famous throughout the country.

There are also some liquors that gradually became famous after entering the Republic of China, such as Quanxing Daqu, miscellaneous grains wine, Langjiu and Gu Feng wine.

1927 After the Northern Expedition, China's economy entered the "golden decade", but Moutai still depended on the prosperity of opium trade between Sichuan and Guizhou. However, Maotai liquor in this period has become a famous wine in southwest China, which is favored by many celebrities and politicians. But the real development was after the government of the Republic of China moved its capital to Chongqing.

At that time, a large number of cultural celebrities, experts and scholars gathered in Chongqing and generally began to drink Daqu. Feng's friend, an ophthalmologist who came back from studying abroad, made coffee and orange juice cocktails with Daqu because there was no foreign wine. After a group of intellectuals returned to Shanghai and Beijing, the fine wines in Southwest China were not forgotten. In this way, they gradually gained national popularity.

Another chance for famous wine in Southwest China came from 1935. When the Chinese Red Army of Workers and Peasants crossed Chishui in Maotai, * * * party member thus developed the complex of Maotai, paving the way for its future status as a "national wine". "Diplomatic ceremony

In fact, the saying that "no wine can't make Maotai" originated in the Republic of China. During the "Xi Incident", Zhou Enlai flew from Yan 'an to Xi 'an, and Zhang Xueliang entertained Zhou Enlai with his favorite Moutai. After War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression's victory, he flew to Chongqing to negotiate with Jiang.

The wine served is also Maotai.

* * * and the liquor industry.

At the beginning of the founding of New China, shochu still used various confusing terms in the Republic of China: sorghum liquor, local shochu, Fenjiu, Xiao Jiu and so on. At that time, because there was no alcohol meter to measure the alcohol content of liquor, there was no uniform standard, and the shopping mall was also called a mess.

It is called original dry, original wine, white dry, dry wine and cannon wine. In order to standardize industrialization, after the founding of New China, this kind of shochu with similar technology and raw materials was called liquor.

The cooperative transformation of liquor brewing workshops in the mainland began, and the real industrial production of liquor began. The first problem in industrial production is the supply of grain, which began in the mid-1950s in China.

Only when wineries are included in the plan can they enjoy food rationing, so small workshops gradually close down or close down. Only in some areas where food is particularly rich, some small wine workshops of cooperatives are reserved, which are not privately owned.

People-owned and traditional China-directed wine workshops began to be incorporated into the industrial system.

With the unified purchase and marketing of grain, liquor has also been brought into the unified purchase and marketing mechanism. Similar to the situation in the late Qing Dynasty, liquor with high alcohol content and relatively more grain-saving was gradually popularized throughout the country, while yellow rice wine with less economic value than liquor was only preserved in a few areas of the country, such as Shaoxing and Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces. Many areas that didn't drink liquor before began to drink liquor.

1963 Eight famous wines were selected in the second wine tasting: Kweichow Moutai, Sichuan Wuliangye, Anhui Gu Jing Winery, Sichuan Luzhou Laojiao Tequ, Sichuan Quanxing Daqu, Shaanxi xifeng liquor, Shanxi Fenjiu and Guizhou Dongjiu. This wine tasting will change the situation that liquor only has varieties but no brands.

History. After that, wineries all over the country gradually nationalized and became a world of one family. Comment on the practical benefits brought by famous wines, first of all, the advantages of circulation permission. Since liberation, because of traffic control, if you can't enter the plan,

No products can be shipped to other places. The second advantage is that production can be maintained even when food is insufficient. Whether it is Kweichow Moutai or LU ZHOU LAO JIAO CO.,LTD Co., Ltd., in difficult times, there can be special supply channels to ensure it.

Maintain the production of wine.