How to deal with positive rubber and raw rubber

Receive the serve as much as possible, and the ball must be of good quality, otherwise it will be embarrassing to be patted by the other side. I hope it helps you! -However, the positive glue has an average ability to rotate. Therefore, we should pay attention to the speed of correcting the rubber ball, mainly for the following reasons: stand a little farther than usual, so that catching the ball will not feel so fast; Strengthen rotation, the so-called use of rotation to suppress speed; Control the landing point, line and landing point not to be too dead, because glue players stand close and hit the ball quickly. Only when the line is open can he be mobilized. Once the glue is forced to stick, it's up to you; Because the spin of the positive glue is not powerful, once the positive glue rubs the ball, you should take the board decisively, otherwise it will be easy for him to kill the high ball; Finally, you should control the rhythm of your own play, don't follow your opponent, and do all the movements, so that the rotation and strength of hitting the ball will come out and your opponent will feel uncomfortable. The above are some of my experiences in playing ball with Artu, and later he was forced to change to a horizontal racket, hehe! -In the amateur world, we often meet players who play raw rubber with backhand, and those who feel bad are generally difficult to adapt, especially when their opponents attack. Most of the raw rubber players we usually meet are horizontal racket and fast break combined with loop ball (forehand reverse rubber and backhand raw rubber). In the amateur world, the backhand of this style of play is usually defensive (knocking, blocking and skimming), and there are few boards (bouncing). Even if there are, the power is not great. I believe everyone is already familiar with this kind of ball path, so I won't go into details here. However, the direct-shot raw rubber game is not suitable for many people. The main reasons are as follows: 1. The forehand attack of raw rubber backhand is very strange, and the rotation changes greatly. 2. In the amateur world, there are also many changes in backhand, as well as offensive means (pushing harder, bouncing ...); Defensive means are obviously more than horizontal strokes (sucking, knocking, blocking, skimming, squeezing ...). First, attack: 1. Serve the long ball to the backhand, because this kind of play limits their position and makes them have to rush forward. This will disrupt their footwork and reduce their service quality. If the server spins to the baseline, they usually take a step back to catch the ball, and the ball they touch has a backspin. As for the strength of backspin, it depends on the speed of serving (the faster the serve, the stronger the backspin). Most of the landing points are hemispheres, which are most suitable for their own attack; If the serve is under the side, the landing point of their return ball is not very fixed, but it is generally near the net, and the return ball has almost no backspin, so they can choose to pick it directly. Here, I suggest you do more left and right backhands, which is conducive to your own attack, and the return ball is relatively fixed. 2. Serve the short ball (not served twice) to the middle of the forehand. Try not to spin the ball sideways, ie in case the opponent borrows the ball, which is not conducive to his attack. Generally, the opponent's return to the ball is not strong (most of them will not turn around), so you can choose to attack directly. Two. Defense: The ball of raw rubber forehand attack is generally heavy, and it can be preliminarily judged according to the ball speed when defending: Generally speaking, if the ball speed is slow, the ball will be heavy, and it is a bit like pulling down the spinning ball by its own friction; If the speed of the ball is fast (it is the opponent's main power) and the ball is a little heavy (it rotates downward, but it is not very strong), you can push the ball back hard. The following is mainly about the defense method of this incoming ball: 1. If you play backhand, use the shape of the ball (about 60 degrees from the table) in defense and hit the ball to the side during the rising period. This defense method mainly overcomes the "sinking" characteristics of raw rubber by borrowing and adjusting the shape of the plate. 2. If it is forehand, you still need to borrow it. Or the shape of the ball, touching the ball in the rising period. At this time, the ball is mainly sent out by the strength of the waist (the strength of the waist is used to increase the stability of returning the ball). At this time, the arms and wrists do not move, and they rely entirely on the waist). However, I don't recommend the above methods, only occasionally used to disrupt the opponent's rhythm, otherwise the opponent can attack continuously. In my experience, this forehand ball must be pulled, and it must be pulled up, even if it is hoisted or fake … to prevent the opponent from attacking continuously. Moreover, this is a good opportunity to turn passivity into initiative, and we can't just give up. The ball pulled by raw rubber is relatively easy to defend, similar to the ball hit by reverse rubber.