The history of the waistcoat

1. The origin of the waistcoat

When the waistcoat was introduced to China, it is not possible to tell.

But the Chinese people use it, began in the Eastern Han Dynasty, was established in the Three Kingdoms, flourished in the Sui and Tang dynasties, the evolution of the traces, probably with the trouser pleats are no different. Honk Juan new theory" cloud: "this (Song) of the half-arm, not the dress of the ceremony, Wei Mingdi often with a hat was misty damask half-sleeves, Yang Fu asked the emperor said, this is in the ceremony of the law of the dress, the emperor did not answer, since it is not the law of the dress do not see Foo, Guangwu Ji more the beginning of the generals, women's clothing, clothing is embroidered in the digs, the three auxiliaries of the officials and soldiers, not laughing, or there are afraid to go, note "the former Han Shu - sound" cloud: Zhu Yu, the big tucked clothes, such as women's coats. This is the first time I have ever seen a woman's tunic.

East Han's Zhu Yu, like Song's half-arm.

This is the first time that we have seen a half-arm in the Eastern Han Dynasty.

However, Emperor Mingdi of Wei still did not know why he was wearing the costume and could not answer Yang Fu's question, and he did not dare to wear it again to see Fu, which proved that it was a Hu costume.

Song Gao Cheng, "Things Chronicle" Volume 3, "Clothes and furs with clothing half-arm," said: "Sui Daye, the inner officials more than half-arm, in addition to that is long-sleeved." Tang and popularization of the people, Taizong Shangshu on the servant Ma Zhou on the sparse cloud: "the people's service chapter, some have not yet been passed, I please in the single (in the single coat) on the half-arm, thought to get the gift."

(After the Tang Dynasty, Ma engaged in the set of "Chinese ancient and modern note" in the volume of "half-arm") View this, we know that the Tang Dynasty to half-arm for the dress, just like the pants folds scenario is carried out. Song ZengSanYi "the same words record" "raccoon sleeve" article of the most detailed: "in recent years the clothing system, there is a kind of such as spinning jacket, long as the waist, the two sleeves only cover the elbow, to the thickest of the silk for the, still wrapped in a folder, or which use sheep, with the edge of the purple soap, the name of the day raccoon sleeve, heard of the beginning of the Royal Court grooms, the short front and back of the lapel, sitting in the saddle! May not take off, with short sleeves to facilitate the control of the ear."

Longer than the waist, two sleeves only cover the elbow, the edge with purple soap cloth, there are clothes, but also sheep clothes, obviously half-arm system. With its short front and back lapels, sitting in the saddle may not want to take off, so it can also be called horse coat.

(Refer to Huang Xianfan's "Exploration of the interpretation of ancient books").

Besides, the "robe" has been popular throughout the ages, and has continued for almost three thousand years.

By the Qing Dynasty, the robe was even more popular. Its unique feature is that in the robe Xibu face set wearing a coat, that is, the so-called "robe will coat".

Horse coat, as the name suggests, "the horse used outside the coat also". It is the Qing dynasty Manchu people riding horseback wearing a lapel short coat.

In order to facilitate the horse whip, archery bow, so there are no two sleeves. Horse coat, later became the Qing dynasty officials dress, regular clothes, line clothing and rain clothes four styles.

The yellow waistcoat has also become a kind of imperial gift, that is, the movie "Wu Xun biography" in the emperor rewarded Wu Qi's kind of waistcoat. The yellow coat, also as a ceremonial uniform, when the emperor tour, escort (escort) driving civil and military ministers, guards, etc., are routinely permitted to wear a yellow coat.

Meritorious ministers, or a big shot in the marquis, or to line array martyrdom, are specially given to wear, to spectacular look.

3. The origin and characteristics of the robes and coats, urgent

National *** in the Republic of China in the eighteenth year (1929) announced the "service regulations" officially blue robes, black coats as "national dress"

robes, for the standing collar, lapel right overlooking, flat-sleeved end, the left and right train of the straight robe, which does not have a horseshoe sleeve end of the robe-style clothing. Horseshoe sleeve end of the robe clothing in the Qing Dynasty was originally casual wear, known as "shirt", "jacket", and commonly known as "coat" ("robe"). " in the Qing Dynasty was only used to call the dress with horseshoe sleeves), to the Republic of China period as a dress used as "robe". Gowns and robes are all made of blue fabrics, decorated with dark floral patterns, without colorful embroidery patterns (non-gowns and robes are still used in the Qing Dynasty, such as "long shirts" and "lab coats", with unlimited colors). The waistcoat has a stand-up collar, a pair of lapels, flat sleeves, a body length up to the waist, and five button loops on the front lapel. The waistcoat was originally a "walking clothes" coat in the Qing Dynasty (the outer coat of the male formal wear "robe and coat" was longer, up to the knee or further down, unlike the short waistcoat), and then it gradually became a casual wear for daily use, and was upgraded to a dress during the Republic of China period, and was made of black fabric with dark patterns, without colorful embroidery. The black fabric is used to weave the dark pattern, and the colorful embroidery pattern is not made.

4. When is the horse coat a popular dress

The horse coat is a kind of coat worn by Manchu people when they ride horses.

After the establishment of the Qing dynasty, the emperor dedicated to the bright yellow color, known as the yellow coat, which is made of yarn or satin, long to the hip, sleeve to the elbow, lapel. The scope of the yellow waistcoat wear mainly has two categories: one is the emperor's near-servants clothing.

They are on duty, the yellow lab coat in the "line of robes" outside, but once relieved of duty, they can not wear, this yellow lab coat is also known as "duty coat". The other type is the movie and television works in the common "reward to wear a yellow waistcoat", it is the emperor to reward a kind of prizes, the scope of its also has two kinds: the first kind of ShiZhi in the martial arts results outstanding people; the second kind of reward for outstanding military achievements of senior generals, and later expanded to the command of the army's civilian officials, these people in the yellow waistcoat, can not be limited to any time can be worn. These people, after getting the yellow lab coat, are not restricted and can wear it at any time.

The button and loop of the yellow waistcoat worn by the official, than the martial arts reward is black, and the button and loop of the yellow waistcoat worn by the military generals and civil officials is yellow to show that they are honored.

5. The specific history of the Tang suit

"Tang" said the origin of some "export to domestic sales" flavor, foreigners called "Chinese Street" for the "Chinatown". The foreigners called "Chinese Street" as "Chinatown", naturally, the Chinese clothing called "Tang Clothing". The name "Tang Clothing" actually originated overseas. During the flourishing period of Tang Dynasty, its reputation spread far and wide overseas, and later overseas countries called Chinese people "Tang". The Ming History - Foreign True La Biography said: "The Tang people, all the Fans (foreigners) called the Chinese people also called. All overseas countries are the same." In the United States, Southeast Asia and even Europe, the Chinese residential areas, also known as "Chinatown", and the overseas Chinese call themselves the Tang people, because since ancient times the Tang Dynasty is to make the Chinese people proud of the dynasty. The traditional Chinese style of clothing worn by the Chinese living in Chinatown is called "Tang", which is not only natural, but has long been the customary term overseas, and has become an internationally recognized title for the Chinese people.

At the beginning of the 20th century, in the context of the social context of "Chinese and Western clothing in parallel", the compatriots in Guangdong, Hong Kong and Macao are to "Tang", "suit" to The compatriots in Guangdong, Hong Kong and Macao used "Tang suit" and "suit" to distinguish between Chinese and Western dress. At the APEC meeting in Shanghai in 2001, China, as the host, invited the leaders of the Asian and Pacific economies to wear "Tang suits", which set off a new wave of peaceful and festive "Tang suits", which is not only a fusion of tradition and modernity but also an inevitable rule of fashion. This is not only the fusion of tradition and modernity, but also the inevitable law of popularity, but also the embodiment of China's status and demeanor in the family of nations. The origin of the Tang suit is very close to people, so it is relatively easy to reintegrate into people's lives. For example, wearing a Tang suit top, but also with pants, shoes, outside can cover the windbreaker, lined with turtlenecks ...... This quality is the Tang suit reemergence of the cultural aspects of the practical factors, but this factor in the popularity of the same indispensable. It is also because of this, the real Tang Dynasty people wear robes with big sleeves, or even closer to the people of the Ming Dynasty robes, it is basically unlikely to return to popularity. Their return may come in another form, that of the elements.

Western countries called "China Street" for "China Town", the English pronunciation is very much like "Tang", so translated as "Chinatown".

According to the opinion of Ms. Yu Ying, the main designer of the "Tang clothes" worn by the heads of state at the APEC meeting, "Tang clothes" should be the common name for Chinese clothes, so when the clothes were designed, the design team discussed the name of the clothes together. Therefore, when the design team discussed the name of the costume after designing it, the process of deciding to name the costume "Tang Clothing" was y influenced by this interpretation of "Tang Clothing", which is "exported to domestic sales". The modern life dress is also a form of the modern Tang suit

6. How the "robe and waistcoat" fit together

The robe and waistcoat is a type of dress that originated in the Qing Dynasty.

Horse coat in the early Qing Dynasty only for the eight banners soldiers to wear, the origin of the horse riding short clothes and named. Later, the children of the eight banners to show off their bravery, but also more than wearing a lab coat, robes and lab coats are narrow-sleeved, round neck.

The robe for the lapel, the waistcoat is the lapel. Horse coat to straight tweed, black silk forging for more, robes more blue, bamboo green, gray, both with a solemn and generous.

There is also a "two-link head" form of robes and coats, that is, only the lower part of the robe, with buttons in the hem of the coat, similar to the Warring States period, "deep clothes". Summer is popular is a wide robe and big-sleeved robe, that is, oblique lapel sleeve type straight embellishment, wear a wide and comfortable, feel fresh and free.

The long robe and waistcoat is one of the commonly used costumes for Manchu men in the Qing Dynasty, generally with cloth shoes and melon skin hat. In addition, there is a special coat, because it is bright yellow, so called yellow coat, for the emperor special.

The emperor also gave the minister of the yellow coat, which is rewarded with supreme honor. After the Yongzheng, robes and coats gradually became a popular social clothing.

The Republic of China is still the public favorite. In the first year of the Republic of China, the "service system case" will be issued in the long robe and waistcoat as one of the men's common dress.

National *** will also be the blue robe with a black coat as "national dress". In the Republic of China, the robe is a large lapel right overlooking, about 5 centimeters long to the ankle.

On both sides of the hem with a small slit of about 30 centimeters. The waistcoat is a pair of lapel and narrow sleeves, down to the waist, with 5 buttons on the front lapel, and the sleeve length is flush with the robe.

Wear the way more free, some with Western-style hat, scarf and shoes.

7. Which ethnic group is the favorite dress

Horse coat was originally worn by Manchu people when riding horses, so named.

It was originally the Qing Dynasty "line of clothing" of the coat (men's formal wear "robe Gua" coat is longer, knee-length or more down, and short models of the coat is different), and then gradually become a daily wear of casual wear, to the Republic of China and upgraded to a dress, uniform, black fabric, woven with dark flowers. The uniform was made of black fabric with dark patterns and no colorful embroidery. In the beginning of the Qing Dynasty, the general soldiers wore the waistcoat, and the rich and noble families also wore it during the Kangxi period.

Because of the different times, the material, color, g decoration is also different. Qianlong was popular Mao Chao outside the leather waistcoat, are with precious fur, not the average person can have.

芦亥革命后， *** once the black waistcoat, blue robe as a dress, robes and coats were once popular. The style of the waistcoat includes three kinds: pipa lapel, big lapel and lapel.

Pipa lapel coat, because of its right lapel shortage, also known as the lack of forbidden coat, wearing it can move freely, often used to make the line of attire. The big lapel waistcoat, on the other hand, is opened on the right side of the lapel, surrounded by a different color as the edge, generally used as a regular dress.

Lapel coat, the color of its service in various periods of time there are a variety of changes: the beginning of the & inherited the traditional azure, to the middle of the Qianlong and popular rose purple, and later promoted the deep dark reddish-red (known as the "blessed color"), Zhao the Jiaqing years, it is popular clay gold and light gray. Large-sleeved lapel coat can be used as a dress instead of a coat, the color is mostly azure, large and small officials in the guest often wear this dress.

There is a color in the waistcoat can not be used casually, that is, yellow. The yellow coat, is the emperor's imperial clothing.

Wearing Xuan kind of people, there are three main categories: one is with the emperor "tour" of the guards, known as the "duty coat"; two is the line | round school shooting, the target or get a lot of hunters, known as the "line around the coat"; three is in the political and military affairs of the government. "; Third, in the political and military affairs in the meritorious achievements, called "martial arts coat".