Cheongsam asks for all kinds of introductions about cheongsam ~ It is required to be rich in content, concise and not wordy, so much for it ~

Qipao (Qipao), one of the traditional women's costumes, was designed by Han women in the first half of the 20th century with reference to Manchu women's traditional flag dress and western culture, and it is a reflection of eastern and western cultures. At present, in the eyes of some westerners, cheongsam has the cultural symbolic significance of women's clothing in China. In the strong feudal ethical atmosphere, women want to be like

It is generally impossible to expose curves now. Traditional cheongsam has always been cut in a straight line, with the chest, shoulders, waist and buttocks completely straight, and the curves of women's bodies are not exposed.

[Palace personage in traditional cheongsam]

Imperial secretary in traditional cheongsam

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The origin of cheongsam

The Origin of Modern Cheongsam

At the beginning of the twentieth century, it was popular to wear short jackets with flared sleeves and sleeveless vests, and the jackets swung back and forth on the ground. Since then, some changes have been made to the hem, sleeves, lapels and collars of the cheongsam, with the addition of decoration, and the changes are complicated. However, it still maintains the straight and wide style of the old cheongsam vest, and adopts the traditional straight cutting method to show the graceful figure of women.

[cheongsam]

chi-pao

In the late 1920s and 1930s, cheongsam changed repeatedly in length, width, split height, short sleeves and low collar. 1929, influenced by short skirts in Europe and America, the cheongsam with a moderate length began to shorten, the hem shrank to the knees, and the cuffs became shorter and smaller. Later, there was a school uniform cheongsam, the hem was shrunk above the knee 1 inch, and the sleeves were western. This change has been criticized. 193 1 year later, the cheongsam began to lengthen and the hem drooped. It reached its peak in the mid-1930s, and the bottom of the robe hung down to cover your feet, which was called "sweeping cheongsam". The sleeves of cheongsam, which used to cover the wrists, were shortened to the elbows. After that, the sleeve length became shorter and shorter, shrinking to two inches below the shoulder, and there was almost no sleeve after 1936.

In Qing dynasty, the cheongsam didn't open the slit, and when the sleeves were shortened, the left slit was quietly opened. Later, the seam opened higher and higher, and gradually reached the knee to the thigh. Due to opposition, the robe once returned below the knee. However, as soon as the pressure of public opinion was reduced, the robe slit rose rapidly, and after 1933, the wide slit cheongsam became popular.

Traditional cheongsam is straight up and down, plus a high collar. In the early thirties, with the passage of time, the waist of the robe began to shrink. After 1934, the curve of the female figure was finally fully revealed. Ear-high collars gradually became shorter, and later some became collarless cheongsam.

The origin of Manchu cheongsam

During the Shunzhi period (A.D. 1644), the Qing ancestors entered the customs, made Beijing their capital, and then unified the whole country. With the initial stability of the regime, people began to be forced to shave their heads and change clothes, which set off a large-scale bloody killing. At this point, almost all traditional costumes, Hanfu, are forbidden to wear. It is said that the shape of Hanfu, which has been worn for thousands of years, is only kept in the clothes of Han women at home. Both men and women should wear robes on celebration occasions. There are many kinds of robes, including court robes, dragon robes, embroidered robes and secret robes.

From the semantic point of view, cheongsam generally refers to the robes worn by flag bearers (both men and women), but only the robes worn by women of the Eight Banners are related to the cheongsam of later generations, and the robes used as dresses, such as robes and embroidered robes, are not customarily classified as "cheongsam". Judging from the repeated bans issued during Shunzhi and Jiaqing years, Manchu women were forbidden to imitate the fashion of Han women's clothing. By the end of the Qing Dynasty, there were also Han women imitating Manchu costumes. The quiet blending of Manchu and Han women's clothing styles has made the difference between the two sides smaller and smaller, which has become a prelude to the popularity of cheongsam throughout the country.

In the late Qing dynasty, the robes worn by the flag girls were wide and wide, with straight and tough lines, reaching to the ankles. "Yuanbao collar" is widely used. Cover your cheeks and touch your ears with the collar high. The robe is embroidered with various patterns, including collar, sleeves, lapels and a plurality of wide piping. During the reign of Xianfeng and Tongzhi, the inlay reached its peak, and some even the whole clothes were inlaid with lace, so that it was almost difficult to recognize the original material. The decoration of women's robes and robes reached its peak. At this time, the Qing Dynasty was trying to save itself from peril. The Westernization School of the Qing Dynasty put forward the strategy of "learning from middle school as a teacher and using western learning" and sent a large number of international students to study abroad. In China, the importation of western-style students' coats and gowns first appeared, which provided another frame of reference for judging beauty and directly influenced the change of social dress concept. Later, the cheongsam evolved into a new style that blended Chinese and western styles, and its changes influenced by the West can be said to be the beginning.

Republic of China cheongsam

19 1 1 The sudden outbreak of the Revolution of 1911 overthrew the last feudal dynasty in China's history, cleared the political obstacles for the popularization of western-style clothing in China, and at the same time abandoned the traditional harsh concepts of ethics and ethics, and lifted all kinds of oranges with strict hierarchy in the clothing system. The free transformation of clothing to civilians and internationalization has come naturally, and cheongsam has thus unloaded the heavy burden of tradition. The old cheongsam was abandoned, and the new cheongsam began to take shape in troubled times.

At this time, the fashion center has already moved from Suzhou and Yangzhou to Shanghai. Shanghai is also an important place for women to seek liberation. Missionaries, businessmen and revolutionaries competed to establish girls' schools, which set off a wave of feminist movement. The social atmosphere of seeking liberation, cleaning up the stereotypes and bad habits in clothing and makeup, tends to be simple, strives for elegance in color, and pays attention to reflecting the natural beauty of women. Cheongsam originally appeared in the form of vest, which grew to the instep and was added to the jacket. Later, the long vest was changed into sleeveless style, which became the prototype of the new cheongsam. It is said that the first Shanghai female student who became popular was the first figurine of cheongsam. At that time, female students, as representatives of intellectual women, became the ideal image of society. They are symbols of civilization and pioneers of fashion, even celebrities and fashion figures dressed as female students.

The 1930s and 1940s were the heyday of cheongsam. At this time, the improved cheongsam absorbed the western-style cutting method in structure, making the robe body more fit. Although cheongsam was born out of women's robes in Qing Dynasty, it is different from the old system, and has become the standard dress of modern women in China, absorbing Chinese and western costumes.

Cheongsam originated from the robes of flag-bearers, and Beijing is the place with the largest number of flag-bearers, so until the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, cheongsam belonged to the Beijing school culture. In the Qing Dynasty, the robes of flag-bearers included men's robes and women's robes, but because cheongsam was a women's dress, it can also be said that cheongsam originated from the robes of flag-bearers. In the early Qing Dynasty, the women's robes were slender and tight, with narrow sleeves and simple styles. By the end of the Qing Dynasty, they had become wide and complicated. After the Revolution of 1911, most of the banners gave up their robes and wore long trousers, so few people wore cheongsam in the 20th century 10, and it only recovered slightly in the 1920s. After Ding Ge, the cheongsam has undergone a qualitative change, but the main place of this change is Shanghai.

There are three main differences between the robes of flag women in the late Qing Dynasty and cheongsam in the Republic of China:

1. The flag gown is wide and straight, not revealing; In the Republic of China, cheongsam was slit and waist closed, showing the figure or feminine curve.

2. There are trousers in the robe of the flag girl, and embroidered trouser legs can be seen at the fork; In the Republic of China, there were underwear and stockings in the cheongsam, and the legs were exposed at the fork.

3. The fabric of the flag gown is mostly heavy brocade or other jacquard fabrics, and the decoration is cumbersome; During the Republic of China, cheongsam fabrics were lighter, printed fabrics increased, and the decoration was simpler.

It is these three differences that make the cheongsam undergo a qualitative change-from a traditional robe to a new variety that can compete with western skirts. Robe clothes are coats, which emphasize functions (cold protection, body covering, identity expression, etc. ), their aesthetic significance is the traditional meaning. Skirts, French robes or British one-piece skirts have a similar history and tradition of emphasizing functions with China robes, but showing women's body curves is also one of its long-standing traditions. Modern skirts strengthen this feature, from implicit, idealized and partial expression to exposure, sexy and full-body expression. In terms of all these manifestations of the subtle changes of women's posture in modern western-style dresses, the cheongsam of the Republic of China is unparalleled. After the founding of New China, the number of women wearing cheongsam in Chinese mainland decreased sharply. A celebrity once said with regret: "For a woman with a good figure, it's a great loss not to wear cheongsam!"

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The formation process of cheongsam

The characteristics of cheongsam in the Republic of China are in line with the aesthetics of western clothing, which is not accidental. At that time, Shanghai, a metropolis with a mixture of Chinese and Western cultures, was the most qualified birthplace. Now it may be difficult for us to find conclusive evidence that the Republic of China cheongsam was born in Shanghai, but we can still assert that Shanghai-style robes are typical of the Republic of China cheongsam. If we are bolder, we can further assume that modern cheongsam, or meaningful cheongsam, is Shanghai style cheongsam. Because, in the eyes of ordinary people, the association or image caused by the word cheongsam is the Shanghai style cheongsam in the 1930 s and 1940 s

/kloc-the cheongsam of the 0/920 s is still wide and straight; Echoing the popular inverted sleeves in the Qin Dynasty, the hem of the cheongsam is relatively large, and the whole robe body is also in the shape of "inverted big". But the shoulders, chest and even waist all show a trend of fit. Zhang Ailing said: "The earliest developed cheongsam is rigorous, cold and square, with a Puritan style." If this woman writer who is good at observing and describing fashion refers to the "bud" in the 1920s, then "cold and stuffy" must be her childhood impression.

The 1930s and 1940s were the golden age of cheongsam and the most glorious period of modern women's wear in China. At this time, the cheongsam is slender, which is consistent with the silhouette of women's clothes popular in Europe at this time. At this time, the cheongsam has completely jumped out of the limitation of the flag gown, and it is a brand-new clothing style of "combining Chinese and western". First of all, there is a saying of "playing truant". The part of cheongsam is westernized, and the collar and sleeve are treated with western style, such as lotus leaf collar, western lapel and Dutch sleeve. , or double lapels with left and right lapels. Although these reforms were not widely adopted, they showed people's freedom of thought at that time, and there was no need to follow the original procedures of cheongsam. The combination of cheongsam and western-style coat is also a major feature of "independence", which makes cheongsam enter the international clothing family and can be matched with many modern clothes. In the present words, it has been "internationalized and modernized". In the late 1930s, the "improved cheongsam" reappeared. The cutting method and structure of cheongsam are more westernized, and the use of cheongsam with chest and waist saving is more suitable. At the same time, shoulder seams and sleeves appear to make the shoulders and armpits fit. Some people also make softer shoulder pads, which are called "beautiful shoulders". This shows that women began to abandon the old ideal angle characterized by shoulder cutting. These layoffs and structural adjustments were made in Shanghai. Mr. Jin Taijun, a descendant of Shanghai Hongxiang Company, firmly believes in this. Although he didn't experience the whole process personally, he could get a lot of information about it from the master when he worked in Hongxiang in the 1940s. At this time, the cheongsam is mature and stereotyped, and the future cheongsam can no longer jump out of the basic form determined by the cheongsam in the 1930s, and can only make some changes in length, fatness and decoration. Cheongsam, which is loved by women all over the world, is a typical cheongsam in the 1930s. The cheongsam in the 1930s was modeled after the Shanghai style cheongsam. At that time, Shanghai was the center of Asian fashion and the paradise of social butterfly.

The definition is broader, but in fact the basic form is more certain. In 1930s and 1940s, the changes of cheongsam were mainly manifested in the choice of fabrics and decorations, as well as the changes of length and split. Because the position of skirt is an important feature of women's fashion, cycloid is the most important style line. In Europe in the 1930s, the cycloid of women's clothing was always very low, but the waistline was very high. The long skirt is a feature of the 1930s, and it is also a sign that distinguishes it from women's clothing in the 20s. The cheongsam in the 1930s was also very long. 193 1 year and 1932, due to the influence of1920s, the hem position was higher. From 1932 to 1938, cheongsam is already very long. Especially around 1934, in Shanghai, cheongsam with hem almost reaching the ground is very popular. This shows that the popularity of Shanghai-style cheongsam and international women's clothing is almost synchronous. Any dress with China characteristics (or displayed on fabrics, details or decorations) can be called a cheongsam. So we can have cheongsam with lapels, collars or slits.

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Dressing characteristics of cheongsam

trait

The appearance characteristics of modern cheongsam generally require all or part of the following characteristics: the form of slit or semi-slit, collar button, side slit, single piece of material, waist collection, sleeveless or short sleeves, etc. Opening is only one of the many features of cheongsam, not the only one, nor is it necessary.

Beijing school and Shanghai school cheongsam represent two styles in art and culture. Shanghai style is characterized by absorbing western art, being innovative, flexible and diverse, and having a strong commercial atmosphere; The style of Beijing school has the style of official school, which is restrained and concise.

Artists and Cheongsam

Art is a social ideology that reflects social life and expresses the author's thoughts and feelings by shaping images.

Designers and Cheongsam

After the evolution in the first half of the 20th century, the basic features and components of cheongsam gradually became stable. Cheongsam has become a classic women's dress. Classics are relatively stable and fashions are ever-changing. But fashion designers often look for inspiration from the treasure house of classics, and cheongsam is also one of the inspiration sources for designers.

Cheongsam is a traditional fashion for modern women in China, not a formal traditional national costume. It has both the vicissitudes of the past and the brand-new present. Cheongsam itself has certain historical significance and high appreciation, so it has certain collection value. Although there are fewer women wearing cheongsam in modern times, modern cheongsam still maintains its traditional charm in many places and embodies the beauty of fashion, so it also has certain collection value.

Style classification of cheongsam

There are many styles of cheongsam, such as wishful placket, pipa placket, inclined placket and double placket. There are high collar, low collar and no collar; The cuffs have long sleeves, short sleeves and sleeveless sleeves; There are high slits and low slits in the slits; There are also long cheongsam, short cheongsam, double cheongsam and single cheongsam.

The change of cheongsam style is mainly the change of sleeve shape and lapel shape.

The main styles of sleeves are: wide sleeve, narrow sleeve, long sleeve, middle sleeve, short sleeve or sleeveless.

The styles of lapels mainly include round lapels, straight lapels, square lapels and pipa lapels.

Round-breasted cheongsam dress-the lines in front are round and smooth;

Straight-breasted cheongsam dress-a plump, round-faced woman is suitable for this style, which can make her figure look slender;

Square-breasted cheongsam dress-The front part has been boldly reformed to adapt to different face shapes.

Pipa lapel cheongsam skirt-

In addition, there are styles such as double round cheongsam and double cheongsam.

collar

Ordinary collar, penguin collar, impatiens collar, collarless collar, dripping collar, bamboo collar, horseshoe collar.

wood tissue

Cheongsam is made of cloth, silk and brocade. At present, there are silk crepe, silk spinning, electrospinning, Hangluo and other silk fabrics.

colour

The common red cheongsam, colorful and unique in style, fully demonstrates the long history and culture of Manchu, and embodies the subtle and elegant charm of oriental women.

model

Modern common cheongsam patterns include brocade, traditional Chinese patterns such as Pisces, Fugui Flower and Plum Blossom, and hand-painted cheongsam with China ink painting techniques.

manufacture

1. Cut

(1) Determine the front and back sides of the cloth-stack the front side of the cloth inside, draw a chalk line on the back side, and do not use dark pigment powder for light-colored cloth;

(2) Determine the folding line of the fabric-Because there is no seam in the front and back center of the cheongsam, one side of the fabric can be folded in half when discharging until it is fat enough.

(3) determining the pattern direction of the garment fabric, so that the pattern directions on the garment piece, the sleeve piece and the collar piece are consistent;

(4) When cutting the velvet fabric, pay attention to make each piece of plush fall in the same direction to avoid color difference;

(5) When cutting, appropriate seams and welts should be added to the contour line. For sewing ordinary zippers, the seam needs 1.5cm, while for invisible zippers, the seam needs 1cm, and the seam for hemming and inlaying is also different.

(6) Check the quantity and quality of fabric cutting pieces and lining cutting pieces. For example, right lapel (with or without wrong cutting)

sew

(1) parts drawing

(2) Side seams are attached with drawstrings.

(3) the pull rope is connected to the inner edge.

(4) sewing

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Qipao Qizhuang Qifu

Although the current cheongsam has been changed to the robes of Manchu women (or "flag dress" or "flag dress"), it is not a flag dress; There is no relationship between you and me, nor between me and you. Cheongsam is a fashion with China characteristics, which embodies western aesthetics and adopts western tailoring. Flag dress is the national costume of Manchu women.

In order to facilitate the distinction and understanding, the following is also an overview of the "characteristics" of the flag dress:

Features: straight lines are used, the body is loose, the sides are split, and the chest waist is close to the size ratio of the dress; exist

[Women in Late Qing Dynasty]

Women in late Qing dynasty

There are many scrolls on the neckline of cuffs.

Color: Yellow is the exclusive color of the royal family, and people are forbidden to use it. Flags are rich in colors and complex, and the materials used are diverse, so they like to use high-contrast colors.

Disc binding design: add a few bright lace or colored teeth to the neckline, sleeve head and pleat. Because the flag dress is a flat dress, the roller becomes the only design space except the fabric, so the multi-roller looks good. In the late Qing dynasty, "eighteen inlays" (that is, eighteen lace inlays) were popular.

Patterns: Most of the cheongsam patterns in Qing Dynasty are based on sketches, and dragons and lions coming out of beasts, cranes and birds, plum blossoms, bamboo chrysanthemums, eight treasures, eight immortals and happiness in life are all commonly used themes.