What are the changes in clothing from the Qin Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty?

The basic shape of clothes in the Shang and Zhou Dynasties was the upper garment and the lower garment. The Shuowen Jiezi says, "The upper part is said to be a garment, and the lower part is said to be a garment." The lower garment was actually a skirt, not pants. In Jinwen, it is common to find records of the Zhou Emperor rewarding his subjects with "chi fu" (赤芾), a red colored piece of cloth. The "Chifu" was a piece of red cloth tied around the waist and hanging down in front of the abdomen, and was a symbol of aristocratic dress and status, also known as the "Wei", later called the "Shielded Knee". It was also known as Wei? It was the custom of the Huaxia people to bind their hair in a bun, and the bun had to be held in place with a mat. Many bone hair buns have been unearthed in Shang Dynasty sites.

In the pre-Qin era, the Huaxia clothing is characterized by top and bottom, wide clothes and broad belt. The clothes were narrow-sleeved, right-over-right, and above and below the knee in length. Collar, sleeves, lapel, train are decorated with lace, no buttons, to belt waist. On the other hand, the dress of the Hu people was short and narrow-sleeved, with left-over-oblong pants and leather belt and boots. King Wuling of Zhao introduced Hu clothing into the Central Plains, which had a positive impact on the changes in Chinese clothing during the Warring States, Qin and Han Dynasties. There was no cotton in the pre-Qin period, and the so-called "cloth clothes" referred to clothes made of hemp cloth. The fine linen cloth worn in summer was called Ge, and the winter clothes were robes and furs. Robe is worn inside the jacket, the inner solid silk, filled with new sheep called ??????????????????????????????, filled with old wadding called robe. Poor people can not afford to fill the silk, can only fill some broken hemp, called hemp robe. Because the robe was an undergarment, it could only be worn at home, but not as a dress, and could only be lined inside the formal dress when going out. The short robe was called 襦, or jacket as it was later called. The coarse-textured jacket was called brown. Fur is a leather coat, which was also the main winter coat in the pre-Qin era.

During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, a new type of clothing called deep clothes appeared. The justice of Kong Yingda in Rituals - Deep Clothes said, "The deep clothes were connected with the clothes, and the body was deep, so it was called deep clothes." In the Warring States, Qin and Han Dynasties, people of all ages, both men and women, civil and military, wore the Shamoyi, and the nobles wore the Shamoyi as a gown and the Shamoyi as their regular uniform, while the commoners wore the Shamoyi as their uniform and the short brown as their regular uniform. The deep clothes were overlapping and hooked, and the waistband should be girded when wearing them. The nobles used the silk weaving gentry belt, so they were called gentlemen or gentry. Belt has been popular, the two ends of the belt were connected with hooks and rings, called the hook and loop belt or mincing belt. Belt can hang or wear a sword, bow and arrow, seal, purse and other objects.

The Qin and Han dynasties are richer than the pre-Qin dress. The Book of Rites says: "Clothes are not silk 襦袴." This is because the jacket and ? are undergarments, and Confucianism, which prizes frugality and simplicity, believes that silk should not be used to tailor undergarments. In the Sixth Dynasty, the children of those families actually used white silk to make pants, so they were called "foppish". Ancient pants usually do not have a crotch, only two leg tubes, the upper end together, with a belt tied around the waist, so called hakama. The "Interpretation of Names" said: across also. Each of the two strands crosses the other also." The hakama was an undergarment that could not be exposed, and a skirt or deep garment must be worn over the hakama. When civilians wore short clothes for labor, a crotch cloth was tied inside the hakama, like the attire of a Japanese grand sumo wrestler. This style of wear can still be seen in the early Song Dynasty in the Panchakutsu. Shorts with a crotch are called pants. Pants are as short as a cow's nose, commonly known as calf's nose pants. When Sima Xiangru brought Zhuo Wenjun back to Chengdu, he wore calf-nosed pants to wash ware in a shop to humiliate Zhuo Wangsun.

Men's outerwear is also collectively known as the robe. The long, large hem of the robe is called a shimai (袂), and the sleeves are loose. The tight and narrow cuffs were called shou (袪). The robe has a lining and is a jacket. The single garment is called. Both the robe and? s have both curved and straight trains, and the curved train is the deep garment. The deep garment was worn to wrap the body for inconvenient movement, and was slowly replaced by the 褕 with a straight train. Women wore a one-piece deep coat or a separate jacket, and the style of women's clothing in the Han Dynasty did not differ much from men's clothing.

There were two changes in dress during the Wei, Jin, and North and South Dynasties, one was that the stereotypes of Han Chinese dress were broken through, and the other was that Hu clothing was absorbed and fused into Han Chinese dress in large quantities.

The men's dress replaced the robe with the shirt. The Interpretation of Names says: "Shirt, clothes without sleeve ends." That is to say, the sleeve end of the shirt does not have ? Qin and Han Dynasty, the color of clothing to the green, purple for the expensive, civilian clothes can only wear white clothes. And the Six Dynasties went against the norm and the color of clothing was still white. Due to the unique status of the Confucianism has been impacted, the Confucian crown and clothing system also shaken, not only the style of clothing, color breaks through the rules of the Han Dynasty, and wear, dress is often new and different, or Kotou trickster, or chest and back, or robe skirt 襦裤, or strange clothes, are breaking the old rituals.

Women's clothing also advocate praise clothing, some of the skirt to put long, cut into triangles, called ? ; some in the shoulders and arms with a cape, walking up the big sleeves, Chinese belt flying?

Hu people's pants and leather boots have been generally accepted by the Han people. The pants of Hu clothing are pants worn as outerwear, with loose legs and bound at the knees with bands, called bound pants. Folds are tight knee-length short clothes that match the pants, pants folds and leather boots are suitable for riding and shooting.

The Sui and Tang dynasties after a long period of national integration, coupled with economic prosperity, social openness, clothing is also increasingly rich and gorgeous. Kaiyuan before the women's narrow-sleeved fashion, Hu clothing is especially prevalent, the early Tang women like to wear Hu cap, wearing narrow-sleeved gowns with lapels, striped pants with small mouths, with soft boots, tie mincing belt. After the Tang Dynasty, clothing and tend to be wide. Tang society is more open-minded, often women wearing men's clothing, but also popular bare-chested low-necked clothes, like to cover a jacket outside the lapel short-sleeved jacket, called half-arm or half-sleeve, shoulder with a piece of silk. Tang Dynasty women's skirts in a variety of styles, bright colors, especially popular like the pomegranate flower like the red skirt, the poet called the pomegranate skirt. Men's narrow-sleeved robe with a round neck as the main dress, boots have become the general shoes of the common people.

The Song Dynasty called the single top shirt, shirt cuffs are not open. There are short shirts as underwear, and there are long shirts as outerwear. The shirt with a horizontal jacket attached to the hem was the men's regular clothes. The jacket and the cotton coat were called 襦襦 and 袄, and the 襦袄 was the common dress of the common people. In the Song Dynasty, it was also popular to put a wide coat without a horizontal jacket on top of the jacket; the one with a slanting collar and a cross-train was called straight, and the one with a straight collar and a lapel was called a crane-cloak. Women's outerwear to 襦衫和裙为主，上衣趋向短窄贴身，下裳流行褶裥裙。 Underwear has a bust and wrapped belly, pants are not exposed outside, only the lower class people wear pants alone. Tang Dynasty popular "half arm" is a short-sleeved jacket, while the Song Dynasty popular jacket called back. Back with long and short, long-sleeved and short-sleeved, characterized by the two sides of the slit has been open to the armpits.

The establishment of the Liao, Jin and Yuan dynasties are ethnic minorities, the Khitan, Jurchen and Mongolian costumes have distinctive national characteristics. Khitan clothing, regardless of gender, are wearing left-over-oblance, round neck, narrow-sleeved robe, robe inside the shirt jacket, the lower part of the set of pants, pants legs tucked into the boots. Women wore skirts in their robes and also wore leather boots. Jurchen clothing and the Khitan similar, due to the cold climate in the north, clothing to fur-based. During the Yuan Dynasty, the Han Chinese maintained their original dress. Mongolian men to narrow-sleeved robes and pants as the main dress, but due to the influence of the Han Chinese, more changed to right overlooking, while the women's robes are still mostly left overlooking.

The robe of the Ming officials for the group collar shirt, tie leather belt, with a jade piece on it, which is called the jade belt. Officials of the service color and pattern according to the grade level and different. The front chest and back are each woven with a square pattern, called the patch. The patch of the civil officials embroidered birds, the patch of the military officials embroidered beasts, the pattern according to the different grades. Confucian students are wearing blue straight with black edges, wearing a soft scarf with black straps, also known as Confucian scarf. Soap Clerks wear green cloth, although the city rich merchants can wear silk, but only allowed to use green or black. After the Wanli ban loosened, colorful clothes and beautiful clothes only spread to the people.

The court ladies dress for the phoenix crown, cape and large-sleeved shirt, regular clothes for the jacket and skirt, rarely wear pants. The backs were more widely worn, the backs with big sleeves and collar could be used as dresses, while the backs with straight collar and small sleeves were plain clothes. There is also a collarless, sleeveless, knee-length lapel vest, called Bijia, loved by young women.

After the Manchus entered the Qing Dynasty, they used force to force the Han Chinese to accept Manchu dress. The men's costumes were robes, shirts, coats and pants. The robe of the Qing Dynasty to slit to distinguish between the noble and the lowly, the royal family clan open four slits, officials and soldiers open two slits, the general public does not open slits. Robe cuffs equipped with arrow sleeves, usually turned up, salute down, because it looks like a horse's hoof, also known as horseshoe sleeves. Officer of the back of the chest of the court dress is also sewn in the middle of a patch, known as the complementary clothing. Patch also follow the Ming system of cultural birds and animals, but the pattern is different from the Ming Dynasty, and because the Qing Dynasty patch is the lapel, so the chest of a piece into two halves. There is a longer than the waist, sleeve only cover the elbow of the short coat, called the line coat, also known as horse coat. The yellow lab coat is expensive, non-emperor special gift can not wear. There are also vests, the north is known as the shoulder or undershirt, is sleeveless short clothes, men and women can wear. Men wear pants underneath, wearing a skirt has been rare.

In the early Qing Dynasty, the change of clothes and easy to crown regulations, "men from women do not follow", so the women's clothing has two styles of Manchu-Chinese. Han women's headdresses have hairpins, hairpins, crowns, strings, etc., Manchu women are as high as the "big pull wings" most characteristic. Manchu women's clothing and men's clothing is similar, also wear robes and coats, but generally tighter and narrower, unlike the Han women's clothing so wide. Han Chinese women in the early Qing Dynasty still wear bright clothes, mainly skirts and shirts. After the Manchu-Chinese dress slowly merged, clothing gradually short, outside the cover a knee-length undershirt. Women's special attention to lace to decorate the edge of the clothes, so the more lace roll more and more, forming a wide edge of the clothes. Popular in the late Qing wearing pants, wearing a skirt gradually rare.