Southern Fujian customs

Many overseas scholars who study China culture, after exploration and thinking, often turn their attention to Fujian culture, among which Minnan culture is highly concerned. In Japanese academic circles, all scholars who study China culture, China culture and overseas Chinese have turned their attention to the study of Minnan culture when the academic atmosphere allows them to enter here after studying Taiwan Province Province and Hongkong.

Purdue University

Purdue, according to historical records, Quanzhou began to divide its jurisdiction into three "corners" in the East, South and West in the Yuan Dynasty. The Ming dynasty followed the yuan system. In the Qing Dynasty, the north corner of the city was added, and there were 36 "shops" under the four corners, and each "shop" was divided into several "sides". This is the beginning of the words "Putin" and "36 stores" that are often heard in Quanzhou today. In the past, on July 15, people paid homage to their parents in front of Boss Mu and Pudu Gong at the gate. Sacrificing ancestors on the fifteenth day of the lunar calendar, in July of the lunar calendar, taking turns to do Purdue every day. According to the memories of the old people, only 36 shops took turns to do Purdue in the late Qing Dynasty. According to some written materials of later generations and the oral accounts of the old people, taking turns to Pudu originated in the Qing Dynasty, because the sacrificial behavior was concentrated and the demand for sacrifice was also concentrated, and the market supply and demand were tight in July and a half. People often fight for shopping. During the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, the local squire wrote a letter and drew lots to decide the date of alternate Purdue in Shop 36 of the City Hall, while each family still worshipped their ancestors in the first half of July. Since then, Licheng District and some related villages have taken turns to do Purdue on the basis of paving roads. Quanzhou, on the other hand, has several corners to do Purdue almost every day throughout July, but residents in any corner will not do Purdue on July 15th, but worship their ancestors first.

No matter where the store is, the basic structure of Purdue is mainly composed of three parts-vertical flag, vertical lamp, Purdue, Chongpu, and an "end edge". The first ceremony began in June of the lunar calendar. The last ceremony is between August and October of the lunar calendar. Paving the road by the water, people who live by the water also need to do "water popularization".

The sturgeon in the suburb of Quanzhou (next to the word "worm") is a fishing village. On the fifteenth day of the seventh lunar month, sturgeon will go to the ancestral temple to "respect their father and mother" and on the 27th of July, they will "worship Pudu". During Purdue, we set the table at the door, lit incense, burned gold and set off firecrackers. Be careful not to have seafood with sharp-edged shells in the dishes, and peel off the shells before cooking. After arranging the sacrifice, you should be "Boyi", ask Pudu Gong for instructions before you can burn gold and send Pudu Gong away by shooting. On the morning of Purdue Day, families in PSh village will go to their temples to burn incense, provide food and drinks, and "burn gold". In the afternoon, wine and food were served at home, and gold was burned to offer sacrifices to Pudu Gong.

Purdue, an old-fashioned house in the city, is similar to a house in the countryside, where tables are set, food and wine are placed, and gold is burned in the courtyard or inside or outside the door. With the increase of high-rise multi-family mixed buildings, there is a problem of Purdue Sacrificial Site. From this case, we can see that there are generally three ferry modes for building residents:

1, offering sacrifices in the corridor inside the gate and burning gold outside the building;

2. Put a sacrifice outside your own gate in the corridor and burn gold outside the building;

3. Go down to the first floor and burn gold in the open air.

This is the result of residents' adjustment between the new lifestyle and the traditional sacrificial behavior. Among the three methods, burning gold should be carried out outside the building, not only for safety or ventilation, but for people to inherit traditional consciousness.

Sacrificial ceremonies usually begin at four or five in the afternoon. No matter in the city or in the countryside, neighbors always start to do Purdue ceremony one after another, for fear that the "shortage of food and wine" of one household will lead to Purdue's public anger, which is not good for their families.

Inviting relatives and friends to "eat Pudu" after the sacrifice is also a major feature of Quanzhou's urban and rural areas. After the sacrificial ceremony, in addition to relatives, friends were also widely invited to drink. People often eat in this house and then go there. Just after dinner here, there came a urging phone call. Regardless of urban and rural areas, the lively "eating Pudu" has become a peak in the whole process of Pudu in Quanzhou. Some people say that the family invites many guests to show themselves, while others say that they are afraid that Pudugong will not leave after eating the sacrifice. Calling many people brave can scare Pudugong away. I think the reason for the latter may be primitive, while the former is an objective effect derived from it. In fact, "eating Purdue" shows that today's Purdue activities have great social functions. Because people take turns to do Purdue, people have more opportunities to exchange visits and have a high degree of freedom to participate in "eating Purdue". The social circle in Purdue season is bigger than that in Spring Festival, which is a major feature of Purdue.

dowry

There are many kinds of dowry in Minnan marriage, including food, clothes, daily necessities and offerings to ancestors and gods. These dowries have special significance and are amazing. And it is also divided into several burdens! The first shipment was a gift of food. In dowry gifts, the most important etiquette is "pig's feet in front of sedan chair", and the front and rear legs should weigh ten to twenty kilograms to show the weight of the gift. Followed by the "four fruits", that is, rice fragrant sugar, wax gourd strips, rock sugar, tea and so on. It is called "Four Fruits Sweet" locally, which means happiness and sweetness. In addition, there are homemade sweet cakes and baked cakes in rural areas, which are called "pressing houses" and have the intention of starting a family. These things should be packed in two bamboo baskets, tied with red cloth strips or red paper strips, and sent to the hall and new house for worship, in order to have a baby early. In addition, you should also prepare meat, noodles, glutinous rice, cigarettes, wine and other foods.

The second load is the suitcase for clothes. The things to wear will be relatively simple, except the clothes that the bride carries with her, and there are not many clothes. However, if there are eight or ten sets of requirements in the era of ticket supply, there is a common saying that "nylon stockings needs four pairs and four shirts are authentic ..."! It can be seen that the bride's requirements for the number of clothes were tight at that time. Although they don't pay much attention to the number of clothes, some people prepare antique red coats, red skirts, blue robes and white and yellow bodies (made of white and yellow cloth, two for men and two for women) for parents to celebrate their birthday and centenarians to show that men and women are kind and have good family backgrounds.

The third burden is the most ambiguous in dowry. It is a sacrifice to ancestors and gods. Generally speaking, there are several pairs of big red candles, several incense sticks, several strings of firecrackers, several packets of red envelopes (called "room head gifts"), and sacrifices such as rice cakes and snacks. All offerings should be even, such as the second, fourth and twelfth, for good luck. Then put them into two delicate red baskets, which are locally called "Hongsheng". In the nearby towns where Hakkas live, there is a custom of sending people's protection lamps (kerosene lamps) to the man's house, which is intended to make money and treasure. I use the most things, from color TV, refrigerator and motorcycle to sewing box. It is really everywhere. More traditional, it is called "three boxes". That is, a jewelry box is needed, which contains high-quality gold and silver jewelry and other valuables that parents marry to show that their parents are rich; Secondly, there are eight things in the dressing box, such as cuttlefish, rouge gouache, comb, mirror and red ribbon, which means that parents cherish their daughters; Thirdly, a sewing box contains scissors, a red ruler, needle and thread and other items used for sewing and cutting, which means that the bride is skilled and diligent.

In addition, women's bath barrels (commonly known as "red-footed barrels"), pillows, towels, toothbrushes, cups, tea sets, washbasins and other daily necessities are readily available, which is the interest and feature of Minnan dowry. However, today, many customs have been replaced by modern marriage habits.

Year end dinner

December 16th of the lunar calendar is the last sacrificial activity in a year, commonly known as "Tail Teeth". There is an ancient poem saying, "One person pays a glass of wine a year, and every family thanks the earth with cigarettes." This is the scene of the tail teeth written by the old poet. The "glass of wine" in Part One refers to the allusion of Song Taizu's "a glass of wine to relieve soldiers", and the owner wants to dismiss that person; The second couplet is the tail tooth season, and every household is offering sacrifices to the landlord. On February 2 nd, after the folk worshipped the birthday of the earth god, the host gave a banquet to entertain the guys. 1February 16 On the day of "Tail Teeth", in order to thank the land god for his care for one year, the merchants will prepare rich sacrifices to reward the land god and reward the employees after the worship. In the early days, ordinary merchants or factories used the meal of "eating tail teeth" to imply that employees or workers should be fired. However, people in the old society were kind. If it weren't for the guys, it wouldn't work, or the owner's management was not good. You don't just fire a guy, and the way to fire him is not to send a notice of dismissal or severance pay, but to hint at a tail-tooth banquet and tell employees that he has been fired. Related languages

During the Northern Song Dynasty, a city shipping company in charge of foreign trade was established in Quanzhou and other ports, which made Quanzhou a famous international commercial port at that time and made overseas maritime transportation very convenient. After that, many people in southern Fujian and other areas immigrated to other places because of political, economic or other factors (including Chaoshan dialect in eastern Fujian, Hailufeng dialect in western Guangdong, Leizhou dialect in Fujian dialect and most parts of Taiwan Province Province), so they brought their mother tongue-Minnan dialect. At the end of the Ming Dynasty, there was a drought in southern Fujian. Zheng Zhilong managed to train thousands of people in Taiwan Province province. Most of them settled in Taiwan Province Province, traded with the aborigines in Taiwan Province Province (mostly Pingpu people), and even married, which promoted the consanguinity between Han people and aborigines in Taiwan Province Province and integration of language.

From the16th century, western European countries began to carry out various overseas colonization plans. Starting from 1624, the Netherlands and Spain successively occupied the southern and northern Taiwan Province provinces. In particular, the Dutch ruled Taiwan Province Province for nearly 40 years, implemented the kingdom system, and recruited Minnan people after recovering Taiwan Province Province. Most of the Han people who came to Taiwan were born in Putian and Quanzhou, Zhangzhou. Under the long-term rule of Pingpu and Dutch, the Minnan language brought by immigrants has also infiltrated some new language factors. At the end of the Ming Dynasty, Zheng Chenggong led an army to capture Taiwan Province Province and drive away the Dutch. The Zheng family was born in Nan 'an, Fujian. Chen Yonghua, the founder of Zheng Dynasty's culture and education system, was from Fujian, and most of his soldiers and civilians were from Fujian. Therefore, at this time, the language of Taiwan Province Province is mainly Fujian accent.

1683, Shi Lang conquered Taiwan Province, the Zheng Dynasty perished, and the Qing court officially ruled Taiwan Province Province. The following year, in order to prevent Zheng's adherents, the Qing court issued a ban on crossing Taiwan and set strict conditions to restrict people from crossing Taiwan. Guandu can only cross Taiwan from three ports, Quanzhou Putian people cross Taiwan from Quanzhou Shishi Hanjiang Port, Zhangzhou Xiamen people cross Taiwan from Xiamen, and Fuzhou people cross Taiwan from Fuzhou Nantai Port and Mawei Port. Among them, Guangdong nationals were forbidden to cross the border, which led to the arrival of Guangdong Hakkas in Taiwan Province Province. The development of Taiwan Province Province is almost dominated by Fujian people, and the language of Taiwan Province Province is also dominated by Fujian people. During the reign of Gan Yong, the ban was gradually relaxed. 1862, due to the peony club incident, Shen Baozhen, an imperial envoy, came to Taiwan to deal with defense, and lifted the ban on crossing Taiwan for nearly 200 years in the name of "opening a mountain to help fans". During the more than 200 years when the Qing court ruled Taiwan Province Province, the number of Fujian people coming to Taiwan increased sharply, and the language of immigrants spread to all parts of Taiwan Province Province with their footprints. Later, due to the convenient transportation, the population gradually increased, and the accents of Quanzhou, Zhangzhou and Xiamen, which came to Taiwan Province successively, gradually merged into a different accent, which was called "Zhang Quan abuse" by the people, formed a compatible Minnan accent and settled down. This is the Taiwanese accent in Taiwan Province Province. In addition, more than half of Putian dialect and Taiwanese in Minnan dialect branch can communicate with each other. The Minnan dialect in Taiwan Province Province is characterized by the integration of different local accents. In a word, the northern part of Taiwan Province Province (such as Taibei and Taoyuan) is partial to Quanzhou dialect, while the southern part (such as Kaohsiung and Tainan) is partial to Zhangzhou dialect.

After the Sino-Japanese War, the Qing court was defeated and ceded Taiwan Province Province to Japan. During the Japanese rule of Taiwan Province Province, the policy of "Mandarin" (Japanese) was implemented in education. Japanese is dominant in politics, and the Taiwanese language used by the people is inevitably influenced by it. Until today, because Japanese was brought to Japan from China during the Southern and Northern Dynasties to the early Qing Dynasty, traces of Japanese influence can still be found in Heluo dialect. There are some similarities between Japanese and Minnan. 1945, World War II ended, the Japanese army was defeated, and the China National Government recovered Taiwan Province; After the war, the Kuomintang launched a civil war. Thanks to the efforts of producers and just people, the Kuomintang government was defeated and brought hundreds of thousands of troops and people from the mainland to Taiwan Province Province. This is the largest migration activity in the history of Taiwan Province Province. Coupled with the "Mandarin" movement (in Beijing at this time), under its influence, Heluo once again joined the new anthology. Because ancient Vietnam, Fujian, Guangdong and other places were inhabited by Yue people, the ancient Chinese used by Han people in ancient north was influenced by many Vietnamese languages. Ancient Vietnam was the territory of China from the Western Han Dynasty to the Tang Dynasty in China, and even after it broke away from China, it still maintained close ties with southern China. Vietnam was a vassal state of China from the Five Dynasties to the Qing Dynasty, and ancient Vietnamese, which was a fusion of ancient Chinese and ancient Vietnamese, was used for more than 1000 years. Modern research also shows that Dai language is closely related to the original Sino-Tibetan language family and ancient Chinese. The Dong-Tai language family and Minnan language share some ancient Vietnamese. The Dong-Tai language family includes Dong, Zhuang and Dai languages in China, Thai language in Southeast Asia and Changbang language in Myanmar, so Southeast Asians have the advantage of learning Minnan. Moreover, due to the migration tradition of Minnan people, Minnan people have very close exchanges with overseas, especially with Southeast Asia. Correspondingly, there are quite a few Southeast Asian loanwords in Minnan. Since the Yuan Dynasty, Quanzhou has become the largest port in the East, and the starting point of the Maritime Silk Road in the Yuan Dynasty is Quanzhou. Since then, Minnan has had more frequent exchanges with the Middle East, West Asia and Southeast Asia. A large number of Arab businessmen settled in Quanzhou, and overseas Chinese who went abroad brought foreign languages to southern Fujian for a long time. Some loanwords have entered the Minnan language and become a part of it. For example: ma-ti (dead), ta-pi (however), ko-pi (coffee), gan-dang (potato/potato), pa-sak (pasha), sa-bun (soap), chok-ku-le (chocolate) and tong-kat.

dissenting views

Minnan dialect, also known as Heluo dialect, has two versions:

One: Heluo dialect was originally the official language of the Shang Dynasty in the Central Plains during the Xia, Shang, Zhou and Pre-Qin periods. When the Shang Dynasty spread, it was destroyed by Xidi (Zhou). The merchants who stayed in Heluo area were forced to move to Luoyi as slave workers, and the lower class was assigned to Wei, Song, Shandong and Qi to become serfs. The remaining tenacious businessmen in the East had to retreat to Jiangnan and other places to make use of rich resources. The accent of Heluo language originated from Shang Dynasty, and its reading source is ancient Chinese, so Heluo language should be called "Shang Chinese" or "ancient Chinese", which is the most authentic language of Han people.

Two: Minnan dialect originated in the Yellow River and Luoshui Valley around Luoyang, the capital of ancient Central Plains, commonly known as "Heluo dialect" and "endless Heluolang". This is because in the Western Jin Dynasty, the eight surnames of Lin, Huang, Chen, Zheng, Zhan, Qiu, He and Hu in the Central Plains went south to avoid the war, crossed the river and settled down in the south, and named this river "Jinjiang". After emigrating to Taiwan Province Province, Minnan people brought Minnan dialect to Taiwan Province Province. Unexpectedly, the place where Heluo dialect was originally spoken no longer speaks Heluo dialect.

Language partition

Minnan dialect is one of the eight major dialects in China. It is divided into several branch dialects:

Xiamen dialect area: Xiamen and Tongan.

Quanzhou dialect area: Quanzhou, Anxi, Shishi, Jinjiang, Hui 'an, Nan 'an, Yongchun, Dehua and Jinmen.

Zhangzhou Dialect Area: Zhangzhou, Longhai, Zhangpu, Xiao Yun, Dongshan, Zhaoan, Huaan, Changtai, Pinghe and Nanjing.

Longyan Dialect Area: xinluo district and zhangping city in Longyan City.

Datian dialect area: a part of Datian County and a small part of Youxi County.

The spread of Minnan dialect is not only in southern Fujian, but has already surpassed provincial and national boundaries. The most popular Minnan dialect in other provinces is Taiwan Province Province, while in the island of Taiwan Province Province, except the Gaoshan area, almost all Minnan dialects similar to Zhangzhou and Quanzhou dialects are spoken. According to preliminary investigation, Taichung and Taipei are slightly biased towards Quanzhou, while Tainan and Kaohsiung are slightly biased towards Zhangzhou. It is said that the migration of Minnan people to Taiwan Province Province began in the Yuan Dynasty, and the large-scale migration was in the middle of17th century. A large number of Minnan people crossed the sea with Zheng Chenggong and recovered Taiwan Province Province from the Dutch invaders. For more than 300 years, Minnan people, Han people in other areas and their Gaoshan compatriots have jointly developed this treasure island of the motherland. In the life and struggle of the same nation, Minnan dialect has been kept in the mouth of the people of Taiwan Province Province as the main communication tool. Especially today, the economic and cultural exchanges between the mainland and Taiwan Province Province are closer, and the buddies in Taiwan Province Province are constantly going to the mainland to seek roots and visit relatives and friends, so Minnan dialect is even more important.

In the early days when the Kuomintang was in power in Taiwan Province Province, due to the compulsory promotion of Putonghua by the Kuomintang government, Minnan dialect has been in decline in Taiwan Province Province for decades, and people who speak Minnan dialect will be called "Taiwan Province people". After the Democratic Progressive Party government took office, it vigorously promoted local culture and activities such as loving hometown and Taiwan Province people speaking Taiwanese, saying that Minnan has become a fashion from "native", and locals, many mainlanders and Hakkas (such as cucurbits) are also trying to learn Minnan and can use it partially or fluently. Now many TV stations in Taiwan Province Province also use Minnan as the main language, such as MinTV, Li Sanhe and Taiwan TV. Major TV stations also produce various types of TV dramas and variety shows in Minnan, and Minnan is also included in the curriculum of students in Taiwan Province Province. There are many people in Taiwan Province who can speak Minnan, accounting for about 80% of the province.

In addition to Taiwan Province Province, many overseas Chinese in Southeast Asian countries also use Minnan. According to preliminary statistics, there are more than 40 million people who speak this dialect at home and abroad, and many people who are assimilated by Minnan people also use Minnan dialect. In Southeast Asia, there are more than 654.38+million descendants of Minnan people marrying Malays, and many Malays also use Minnan language. summary

The development and inheritance of Minnan cuisine also has a gradual process. Originated in Quanzhou, it spread to southern Fujian cultural circles such as Zhangzhou, Taiwan Province and Xiamen. After Quanzhou people came to Nanyang, due to frequent exchanges, foreign exchanges expanded, and the exchange and integration of food culture became closer. In this way, the flavor of Minnan cuisine not only affected Zhangzhou, Xiamen, Chaoshan and Taiwan Province Strait, but also exported to the vast Southeast Asia. Many people who travel to Southeast Asia will be surprised to find that the food they eat is the flavor of their hometown, and the food stalls on the street can also eat oysters, rolls and jiaozi with minced meat. Many foreign cuisines have settled in Quanzhou, and some overseas Chinese have returned to their hometowns to open restaurants. Quanzhou people can eat authentic Indonesian food, Vietnamese food, Myanmar food and Singapore food when they go to the streets.

Xiamen specialty

Fried jujube

Fried Jujube: A famous ancient snack in Tongan, Xiamen, and one of the five treasures of Tongan (horseshoe crisp, sealed meat, fried jujube, fried spiced, bowl-shaped jiaozi).

Practice: raw materials are divided into skin and stuffing. The skin is generally a good sweet potato, and the rice is ground into powder. The fillings are generally peanuts, peas, sesame seeds, and vegetables are also acceptable. Wrap the stuffing in the skin and fry it in a boiling oil pan. It tastes good.

Fried spiced

Spiced strips: "Spiced" is a traditional snack in Tongan, Xiamen. For a long time, spiced wine is one of the most delicious dishes for every household to hold happy events during Chinese New Year holidays, weddings and birthday celebrations, so it is best to entertain relatives and friends, which has become one of the traditional customs in Tongan, Xiamen. "The color is reddish brown, fresh and crisp, the stuffing is smooth and sweet, and the hot food tastes particularly good, which is very good with wine.

The practice of spiced strips: bean curd skin and bean film, lean pork, starch, onion, refined salt, monosodium glutamate, sugar, spiced powder, dried flat fish, horseshoe and peanut oil.

Horseshoe Crisp

Horseshoe Crisp: A traditional specialty of Tongan in Xiamen, which is popular in Tongan. Noodles and sesame oil are fragrant sacrifices, so they are commonly called sweet cakes.

Practice: Using refined flour, sugar, refined oil, maltose, peanut kernel and white sesame seed, it is divided into three production processes: peeling, crisp and stuffing.

Seal meat

Xiamen Tongan traditional snacks.

Practice: Cut the pork (front leg meat) into cubes, about 2 kg, wrap it in square gauze, put it in a clean iron pot, pour in cooked lard, heat it, stir fry the whole pork in the pot, and add soy sauce, sugar, monosodium glutamate, rice wine, star anise spice, etc. Then add mushrooms, chestnuts, shrimps, dried waste oil and other seasonings and stew in the pot for two and a half hours.

Wanzaiguo

Wanzai pot: a traditional snack in Tongan, Xiamen.

Practice: The main raw material is hard rice. Put the soaked rice into a stone mill and grind it into pulp, add seasonings such as meat sauce and oil onion, and then steam it.

Sweet potato jelly

Sweet potato bean jelly: A traditional snack in Tongan, Xiamen, popular in xindian town, Xiang 'an.

Practice: cook rice into porridge, mix it with sweet potato powder, put it in a stone mortar, knead the rice and sweet potato powder together, then add water, thicken it, fry it in an iron pan into pancake skin, cut it into vermicelli with a width of two centimeters, and put it in a "dare pot" for cooling. Add enough lard when cooking, add Shanghai oysters, cuttlefish, shrimp and other seafood, and sprinkle some chopped green onion or celery on the surface.

Quanzhou diet

Like most areas in China, Quanzhou people's family diet practices three meals a day: morning, noon and evening. As a supplement to dinner. Snacks are available, but they vary from time to time and from class to class. Take Yongchun County as an example. From the late Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China, for officials, "three-point three meals" (morning, noon and evening) and "two-point three meals" on the tenth floor (morning and evening), ordinary people only added a little more (noon) when they were busy with agriculture, so the poor couldn't care about three meals and dared not think too much.

Restricted by the local natural environment, economic conditions and production methods, Quanzhou people's diet structure has its own local characteristics. The staple food raw materials are rice, sweet potato (also known as sweet potato) and barley. In Anxi and Yongchun. Inland counties such as Dehua are mainly rice, while coastal counties such as Hui 'an, Jinjiang and Nan 'an are mainly sweet potatoes and barley. There are two ways to make staple food: dry rice and porridge. It is common to eat three thin meals, or two thin dry meals (dry meals at noon or at night), or two thin dry meals (dry meals at noon and at night). Quanzhou people also have a "two-in-one" eating method, that is, vegetables, seafood, meat and other non-staple foods are directly cooked with rice into salted rice (such as cabbage rice, red paste rice, meat rice and so on. ) and salty porridge (such as peanut porridge, dried oyster porridge, duck porridge, etc. ), the taste is quite local. About Quanzhou people's staple food raw materials, here should also say a few more words about sweet potatoes. Sweet potato is not only the staple food of three meals, but also the spiritual bond between hometown and overseas travelers. Relatives and friends in my hometown go abroad to visit relatives, and sweet potato powder is one of the gifts they bring. Overseas Chinese also want to eat sweet potato porridge and sweet potato soup when they return home. People in Quanzhou, the hometown of overseas Chinese, even think that sweet potatoes, which can grow tenaciously under harsh natural conditions, have nurtured the traditional virtues and character of their villagers living abroad and overcome various difficulties to take root and grow rapidly in foreign countries. Once they have a successful career, when they recall the hard days when people in their hometown used to grow sweet potatoes and drink sweet potato soup, they will arouse their patriotic love for their hometown and actively support the construction of mulberry fields. Unexpectedly, sweet potato, regarded as vulgar food, has such rich internalization connotation. In Quanzhou, ordinary people in urban and rural areas used to live frugally and have a simple diet. The auxiliary materials were mostly pickled vegetables, cheap fresh vegetables and bean products. Fish, meat, poultry and eggs are usually difficult to taste during festivals. Qing Daoguang's "Jinjiang County Records" records that Yang Tingxiang, a scholar in the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty, said that he was a "lifelong student, but when barley and radish dishes were cooked, the rest were available." Therefore, there are proverbs in Quanzhou, such as "six feet die, dried tofu, preserved vegetables, (a house next to the word)" and "I don't know the taste of meat all year round".

After the founding of New China, the material living standards of urban and rural people have gradually improved. Today, flour and rice are the main staple food structures, and pasta has also entered the dinner. Due to the accelerated pace of life, many families have drinks such as milk, soybean milk, malt extract, nutritious cereal, bread, fried dough sticks or cakes for breakfast. With the improvement of people's consumption level, family diet is becoming more and more nutritious and delicious. For families with better economic conditions, sometimes eating in hotels and restaurants is nothing new.

Zhangzhou catering

1, fried oysters

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2. Bacon jiaozi

Introduction: It selects the best glutinous rice, with shrimps, mushrooms, eggs, pork belly, spiced powder to taste, tied tightly with washed bamboo leaves, and put it in a pot to boil. When eating, untie the bamboo leaves and mix with sand tea sauce or hot sauce, which is fragrant and delicious.

3. Hand-grabbed noodles

Introduction: Hand-grabbed noodles are a unique local snacks in Zhangzhou. They are used to grab food directly. The production method is to cook the butter noodles, spread them into a palm-sized disc, pour in sweet noodle sauce, garlic paste, miscellaneous vinegar sauce (chopped ginger and onion, mixed with vinegar and tomato sauce), peanut butter, sand tea sauce, Chili sauce and mustard sauce, and finally add the fried dried bean curd, and roll it up to eat with your hands. Sweet and sour taste, make the spleen and stomach wide open. This is a cold dish with Minnan flavor in Fujian cuisine, which is quite famous