Which dynasty is the flush jacket?

By the height of the waist, 襦襦襦 is divided into waisted 襦襦, high-waisted 襦襦, and chested 襦襦襦. By the difference in the style of the collar, the jacket is divided into a cross-collar jacket and a straight-collar jacket. By the difference of whether the jacket is lined or not, a jacket is divided into a single jacket and a compound jacket; a single jacket is close to a shirt, while a compound jacket is close to a jacket.

襦襦気襦気 was a daily wearable garment for common people (women) until the end of the Ming Dynasty and the Qing Dynasty.

Men's 襦襦裙 are mostly called clothes (cháng).

Introduction to 襦襦裙

襦襦裙 is one of the earliest and most basic forms of clothing in the history of Han Chinese dress, starting from the period of the Warring States period, when there is physical evidence, and ending at the end of the Ming Dynasty and the early Qing Dynasty, when the "shaving of hair and changing of clothes", which is the most basic form of the traditional Han Chinese dress. During the 2000 years, although the length, width and narrowness of the changes, but the basic form has always maintained the original style.

It is generally believed that 襦裙 appeared in the Warring States period. Because of the popularity of deep clothes in the Han Dynasty, the 襦裙 gradually decreased. The style of 襦襦 in this period, generally the upper jacket is very short, only to the waist, and the skirt is very long, hanging down to the ground. 1957 in Gansu Wuwei Muozui Zi Han Tomb found 襦襦襦实物，襦以浅蓝色绢为面，中纳丝棉，袖端接接一段白色丝绢。 The skirt was also made of silk-cotton and yellow silk. The 襦裙 of this period is generally narrow-sleeved right-over-right jacket with rectangular collar; the lower skirt is made of four panels of plain silk, narrow at the top and wide at the bottom, with pleats at the waist, and a silk belt tied at the waist of the skirt.

History

Warring States Period

The style of women's clothing of the upper jacket and lower skirt has appeared as early as the Warring States Period.

The Two Han Dynasties

By the Han Dynasty, the number of women who wore this style of clothing gradually declined due to the general popularity of dark clothes. Accordingly, some people believe that this kind of dress did not exist in the Han Dynasty at all, and only re-emerged in the Wei, Jin and North-South Dynasties. In fact, women in the Han dynasty did not abandon this type of dress, which is depicted in a number of Han Lefu poems. The style of 襦襦 in this period was generally characterized by an extremely short upper jacket, reaching only to the waist, and a very long skirt that hung down to the ground. The jacket is one of the most dominant forms of Chinese women's clothing. Since the Warring States period until the Ming Dynasty, before and after more than 2,000 years, although the length, width and narrowness of the jacket changed from time to time, but the basic form has always maintained the original style.

Wei and Jin period

Wei, Jin and North and South Dynasties period of the 襦襦裙 inherited the old system of the Han Dynasty, mainly still the upper 襦襦下裙. Upper jacket mostly with lapel (similar to modern cardigan), collar and sleeves preferred to add Shi color embroidery, cuffs or narrow or wide; waist with a dress called "hold waist", outside the bundle of ribbons; lower skirt fabrics are more colorful than the Han Dynasty. With the rise of Buddhism, the lotus, Lonicera and other decorations appear in large quantities on the clothing, women's skirts pay attention to the material, color, pattern colorful and gorgeous, plain white skirt without flowers is also welcome. Wei Jin period skirt waist day high, short top, sleeve day narrow; later to the other extreme, sleeve broadening to two or three feet.

Soi, Tang and Five Dynasties period

Soi, Tang and Five Dynasties, short jacket, half-arm (belonging to the smock.) The half-arm is shaped like today's short-sleeved jacket, and the half-arm is shaped like today's short-sleeved jacket. The half-arm was shaped like today's short-sleeved shirt, and was called a half-arm because the length of its sleeves was between the long-sleeved and the waistcoat) and the shawl (which was an accessory) constituted an important part of the 襦気(襦気)at that time. In the Sui Dynasty, small sleeves were also fashionable for the upper jacket. In the Tang dynasty, short jackets with small sleeves and floor-length skirts were worn for a long time, but after the Tang Dynasty, the aristocrat's clothing shifted to a wide and dragging style. The skirt was sewn together with four pieces, narrow at the top and wide at the bottom, and hung down to the ground without any fringe. The waist of the skirt was made of silk strips with ties sewn at both ends. At this time, the neckline of the upper jacket varied, in which the chest-baring large-sleeved shirts were once popular, demonstrating the emancipated spirit of the Sheng Tang. The shawl evolved from the narrow and long shawl, and later gradually became a fluttering belt draped over the arms and danced before and after, which was the typical dress of the ancient Chinese ladies, and was the most popular in the Sheng Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties. Under skirt fabrics to silk fabrics are mainly to more for the best, skirt waist up, the skirt color bright, more for the deep red, reddish purple, moon green, grass green, etc., of which the pomegranate red skirt popular for the longest time, colorful and varied, and more in the different, let a person dazzled, dazzled. Such as Tang Zhongzong's . Daughter of Princess Anle's bird skirt, known as China's embroidery history of masterpieces; Wu Zetian ringing skirt, skirt four corners of the twelve bells, line with the step, tinkling as ringing, it can be described as a thousand, beautiful, and short jacket and shawl with a one, show the richness of the Tang women graceful and luxurious charm, showing the beauty of the poetic and rhythmic.

The Song Dynasty

Song Dynasty, under the influence of the Cheng-Zhu theory of "the existence of heavenly reason, extinguish human desires", this period of time, clothing a reversal of the Tang Dynasty's colorful, the formation of elegant and quiet wind. At this time, in addition to the jacket, women's shirts popular "pasted", the skirt is popular "thousands of folds", "hundreds of folds", the waist tied with a silk belt, the skirt color is generally more colorful than the top, which the elderly women and rural women mostly wear dark pigmented skirts. The color of the skirt is generally brighter than that of the upper garment, among which the elderly women and rural women mostly wear dark pigmented skirts. Skirt material is mainly gauze, embroidered and painted patterns or decorated with jewels and jade, then also appeared before and after the slit of the "spinning skirt" and the phase masked by the belt to bind the "catching the skirt". In the middle of the skirt band often hang a jade ring ornament - "jade ring ribbon", used to hold down the skirt, so that the skirt in the human body movement does not flutter with the wind and lose the elegance of the solemnity of the ceremony.

Yuan and Ming Dynasties

Yuan Dynasty, 襦裙 basically inherited the Song Dynasty legacy, but the color is more gray.

The jacket skirt (an evolution of the 襦裙) was popular in the Ming Dynasty, and has been unearthed in Ming tombs; the cross-necked, mid-waisted 襦裙 was worn by the everyday people (e.g., maids, peasant women, etc.). The upper jacket was a cross-necked, long-sleeved short coat, with knee breeches (overpants) worn under the skirt. Skirt color, the first light, although there are decorations, but not obvious. To the early years of Chongzhen, the skirt is mostly plain white, even if the embroidery pattern, but also only in the lower part of the skirt width of one or two inches decorated with a lace, as a pressure foot. Skirt width of the first six, that is, the so-called "skirt drag six Xiangjiang River water"; after eight, there are a lot of fine folds around the waist, line movement is always like a water pattern. To the end of the Ming Dynasty, the skirt is increasingly elaborate decorations, skirt width has increased to ten, the waist pleats are more and more dense, each pleat has a color, the breeze blows, the color is like the moon, so it is called "moon skirt".