Excerpts from traditional costume composition paragraphs

Manchu women do not bind their feet, their shoes are embroidered with beautiful floral ornaments, and the center of the sole is padded with wooden heels with a height of 10 cm. Manchu women can walk with their heads held high and their waists swaying. The hairstyle of Manchu women has changed greatly. When they were girls, they simply pulled their hair back. Soon after you get married, you should braid your hair and tie it into a single bun. There are many kinds of hair styles after marriage, double bun and single bun. Double bun hairstyle combs the hair into two parts from the top of the head. The front bun is combed into a flat top for wearing a crown, and the back bun of the neck is combed into a dovetail shape, which is scattered behind the tibia to keep the neck straight all the time. Therefore, Manchu women are more noble and dignified when walking. The picture shows Manchu brides combing their wedding hairstyles.

Historically, Manchu men wore horseshoe sleeves with a belt around their waist, or a robe with a double-breasted coat, a cool hat in summer and a sloppy fur hat in winter. The clothes are made of blue, blue and brown cotton, silk, silk, satin and other materials, with blue leg straps on the trouser legs, cotton boots or leather boots on the feet, and Piura in winter. Braid the top and shave off the surrounding hair.

Women like to wear qipao or waistcoat. Clothing is made of silk, satin, tulle or cotton and linen, with various colors and patterns. Some embroider the surface of cheongsam into a set of patterns, and more are inlaid with layers of fine lace on the skirt, cuffs, neckline and hem. White socks on the feet, embroidered shoes at the bottom of the flowerpot, leg straps in various colors such as green, red and pink on the trouser legs. Shake your head and wings and comb two heads or flags. I like to wear earrings, bracelets, rings, hairpins, velvet flowers and sideburns.

Manchu men and women like to hang ornaments on their waists or big skirts. Men have sickles, ear spoons, toothpicks, glasses cases and fan belts. Women have sachets and wallets. Most of them are sewn with silks and satins, with various colors and exquisite workmanship. After entering the customs, Manchu cheongsam has been widely used by women in China.

Manchu costume form

Hat ornaments: Manchu women have no hats and men have hats, which are divided into high-top hats, casual hats, wind hats, felt hats and Kunqiu hats (women keep out the cold in winter);

Clothing: there are four main forms: cheongsam (that is, robe), mandarin jacket, vest and trousers. Cheongsam can be worn by both men and women regardless of season. Mandarin jackets are worn by rich people with status in spring, autumn and winter. A vest is a woman's coat. Pants are cotton trousers without waist, which are fixed with two straps, and are mostly worn by elderly women in cold weather. What makes Manchu people wear pants different from other nationalities is that they have to tie their legs to travel.

Shoe decoration: Budina is used for men's shoes, and the upper is inlaid with double thongs. Wear pigskin or cowhide boots in winter, and most elderly people wear high-waisted felt shoes. Women wear high-heeled shoes with wooden soles, which are narrow at the bottom and wide at the top, with the toe protruding from the upper wing and green flowers on both sides, like boats. Specifically, there are horseshoe shoes, flowerpot shoes, flat shoes, square shoes and pointed shoes;

Accessories: Accessories worn by Manchu people are divided into bone ornaments, stone ornaments, pearl ornaments, gold and silver ornaments, etc. What kind of jewelry to wear depends on status. Generally speaking, the quality of jewelry can show the status and wealth of a family.

Manchu costume classification

chi-pao

The colors of Manchu costumes are mostly elegant white and blue-purple, and red, pink, light yellow and black are also common colors of Manchu costumes. White is an important color in Manchu costumes, because Manchu people traditionally have the custom of respecting white. White is clean and precious, and white symbolizes auspiciousness. Therefore, Manchu costumes often use red, blue and other colors to set white lace on cheongsam.

Manchu women are good at embroidery. They embroidered auspicious patterns on skirts, uppers, wallets and pillows, such as flowers, herbs, cranes and deer, dragons and phoenixes.

After the Manchu entered the customs, many auspicious symbols of the Han nationality often appeared in the costume patterns, such as blessing, longevity and longevity. Although Manchu costumes have strong national traditional characteristics, they are constantly evolving with the development of history. Especially after the Manchu entered the customs, they lived together with the Han nationality for a long time, and their clothing styles, colors and patterns all evolved to varying degrees.

Exquisite and colorful Manchu costumes

In the Qing Dynasty, Manchu people were basically included in the Eight Banners, so they were called standard bearers. Therefore, this kind of clothing suitable for Manchu men, women and children is called cheongsam. There are two styles for men and women. The men's cheongsam in the early Qing Dynasty was round neck, big waist and arrow sleeves (horseshoe sleeves), with slits on all sides, buttons and a belt around the waist. The four sides are slit, so you can ride and shoot freely, and the sleeves are convenient for archery, which can protect the back of your hand from the cold. In winter, cotton gowns are often covered with a navel-long, four-sided split, double-breasted jacket, commonly known as mandarin jacket (two rivers in Manchu). Others wear vests (commonly known as vests) In the late Qing dynasty, from four slits to two slits, the arrow sleeves were mostly changed to flat sleeves. Women's cheongsam is basically the same as men's robes, except that lace is embedded in the neckline, front and cuffs, and a jacket or vest is added outside the robe in cold weather. During the Republic of China, women's cheongsam was mostly changed into a style with loose chest, slightly tight waist, slightly wide hips and slightly closed hem. This close-fitting cheongsam can better show the elegance and beauty of women. At the end of 1950s, men's cheongsam was gradually abandoned in Manchu inhabited areas, while women's cheongsam was not only loved by Manchu women, but also worn by women of other nationalities.

Horseshoe sleeve is the sleeve of Manchu men's and women's cheongsam in Qing Dynasty, also known as arrow sleeve. In the early Qing Dynasty, Manchu men wore cheongsam with narrow cuffs and semi-circular skins (later changed to cloth) at the end of the sleeves, hence the name horseshoe sleeves. The advantage is that it is convenient for fighting, hunting and archery, and protects the back of the hand from cold. After the mid-Qing Dynasty, sleeve-type clothing gradually changed from casual clothes to formal clothes, with casual clothes mostly flat sleeves and formal clothes still horseshoe sleeves. Usually, roll it up more. When you go to work, have a holiday, meet your boss and visit your elders, you must put down your left and right horseshoe sleeves before you can visit. Others tie horseshoe sleeves with buttons on the cuffs of casual clothes as dresses. Manchu women's dresses are also mostly horseshoe sleeves. During the Republic of China, it gradually stopped being used.

Wolong belt is also a traditional Manchu costume, also called vest, which is actually a sleeveless mandarin jacket. It has a belly-long collar, most of which are slit at both sides, and various patterns are decorated on the edges of the collar and lapel. There are equations of double barge head, big barge head and pipa barge head, and there are divisions of cotton, leather, clip and yarn. Manchu men in Inner Mongolia prefer pipa-style vests. The formula is to sew the skirt into an arc, that is, the skirt sticks to the chest from the neckline to the right shoulder, but it doesn't reach the end, but turns left to the navel, so that the lower skirt is missing a short section to facilitate getting on and off the horse. Women's vests are mostly double-breasted, and the lower ends of the double-breasted vests are mostly wishful heads, and the skirts are inlaid with gorgeous lace. In the Qing Dynasty, dresses were narrow, and cheongsam was often worn, but it was still wide since the late Qing Dynasty, and it was often worn outside cheongsam. Because of its beauty and practicality, it is still worn by the elderly in Manchu Township of Manchu Tun in Horqin Right Front Banner and ten Manchu townships in Harqin Banner.

Wula is one of Manchu traditional winter boots and shoes. It is made of pigskin, cowhide and deerskin. The shape is pointed at the front and rounded at the back. The vamp has six ears, and the shoe mouth is padded near the foot, and the ears are connected by thin straps. Shoes are relatively wide, so you should wear them with Urraca, one of the "Three Treasures in Northeast China". Because of its softness, lightness and freedom of movement, Wula has been used all the time and can still be seen in some remote mountain villages in Hulunbeier City, Inner Mongolia.

Manchu costume culture

Manchu people who moved south to Liaodong in the Ming Dynasty used both cloth and leather. After Nurhachi led the troops, the costumes were chaotic, and the phenomenon of "uniformity from top to bottom" appeared. It was not until the era of Huang taiji that custom-made crown clothes began. After entering the customs, the clothes from the emperor to the soldiers are customized and insurmountable. As for the idle flag-bearers, it was normal for all men to wear robes, made of satin or cloth, jackets and jackets. Manchu women's cheongsam has developed a lot and likes to be made of satin. In Beijing and other places, the practice of "eighteen inlays" is popular, that is, eighteen hems look good and the style has become a wide robe and big sleeves, which is a fashion in the Qing Dynasty. After the Revolution of 1911, the style of cheongsam changed from fat to thin, and it was divided into long sleeves and short sleeves. After continuous improvement, the general style is: straight collar, narrow sleeves, big chest on the right, buckle and trip, waist-tied, knee-length, split on both sides.

Nuerhachi unified the Jurchen tribe, established the post-Jin regime, and implemented the Eight Banners system. After that, Manchu people all wore banners, so the robes they wore were called "cheongsam". After Manchu nobles entered the customs to rule the whole country, Emperor Taizong of Qing Dynasty believed that the emperors of Qing Dynasty should maintain their own lifestyle and traditional habits, especially the dress system symbolized by the rulers as the foundation for consolidating the country. So he set out to formulate and improve the dress code of the Qing dynasty, and repeatedly forbade princes and ministers to wear praise belts, wide robes and big sleeves like Han people. Maids and slaves in the court should wear Manchu clothes, and the clothes and hairstyles of Han adult men should follow Manchu habits. You can only wear Hanfu when you are buried after death! ! !

Cheongsam is the traditional dress of Manchu women. Cheongsam is characterized by a standing collar, a large right waist and a slit at the bottom. Ancient cheongsam has pipa lapel, wishful lapel, oblique lapel, piping or hemming, etc. /kloc-improved after the 1920s, with loose waist, wide cuffs and moderate length, which is convenient for walking. It has become a popular dress for women in China. In the early thirties, influenced by western short skirts, the length was shortened, almost to the knees and the cuffs were narrowed. In the mid-1930s, the height of both sides split and lengthened, highlighting the curvaceous beauty of women's figure. Short-sleeved or sleeveless cheongsam appeared in the 1940 s, and the outside was streamlined. After that, separate the pieces, including the shoulder seam and the sleeveless cheongsam skirt. Cheongsam, with oriental color, can fully show elegance and grace. It is considered to be a typical national costume that expresses the beauty of women and is world-renowned.

Women's cheongsam is basically the same as men's, but with more decoration. Women's cheongsam is not only a vertical long-sleeved robe, but also has embroidery patterns on the hem and calf. Manchu women often embed several patterns or colored teeth on skirts, necklines and sleeves, commonly known as "painting roads" or "dog teeth". According to seasonal changes, it can also be divided into single, clip, cotton and leather.

With the development of society, men's cheongsam is gradually abandoned, while women's cheongsam is also evolving, from wide waist straight tube to tight curve and streamline, becoming a kind of women's dress representing the Chinese nation.

Cheongsam is a costume worn by Manchu men, women and children all year round. Simple cutting, round neck, wide front and back, narrow sleeves, four pieces of cutting, long seam, easy to get on and off the horse. Narrow sleeves facilitate archery. Because the cuff is attached with horseshoe sleeves, it is also called horseshoe sleeves. After the Manchu gradually got rid of riding and shooting career, horseshoe sleeves have become decorations, and putting down horseshoe sleeves is still the etiquette of Manchu to pay tribute to the elderly and respected people.

Women's cheongsam is more decorative than men's cheongsam. The collar, front and cuffs are embroidered. With the changes of the times, the style of cheongsam has also changed greatly, and the four-piece cutting system has also been changed into a two-piece cutting system. Cheongsam can show women's figure and curve well. The picture shows the vest worn by Manchu women when wearing cheongsam coats. Embroidered with exquisite patterns. Manchu women dancing in the court in cheongsam. Men wearing traditional Manchu cheongsam include arrow sleeve robes and vests, as well as Manchu men's hats.

Cheongsam, called "garment interface" in Manchu, is divided into four types: single, clip, leather and cotton. This kind of "dress petticoat" (in ancient times, it was a dress, and the lower garment was a petticoat) was obviously different from the two clothes under the coat of the Han nationality. It is a favorite costume of Manchu men, also known as a big gown. The cheongsam worn by Manchu men is simple in style and structure. It was originally worn by Manchu when riding and shooting. Suitable for riding and hunting. The cheongsam worn by Manchu women is elegant in style and beautifully decorated. The neckline, sleeve head and skirt are embroidered with different colors of lace, and some are as many as a dozen. It looks slim and elegant. There is a kind of women's cheongsam called "big sleeve", which is embroidered in the sleeve and pulled out more beautifully. Manchu women wear cheongsam with beautiful style and fine workmanship. The hem also changes from width to convergence; The cuffs also change from narrow to fat, from fat to thin, and fit better. Nowadays, cheongsam is not only worn by Manchu women, but also has become one of the favorite clothes of women of all ethnic groups.

Women's flag shoes

Manchu women's flag shoes are called "inch shoes" or "horseshoe shoes". In the middle of the sole, that is, the center of the foot, there are more than 3 inches of boards embedded, and the boards are wrapped with fine white cloth. Where the wood can't follow the ground, it is often decorated with embroidery or beads. Because the sole plane is horseshoe-shaped, it is named; There is also a kind of shoes whose bottom is flowerpot-shaped, which is called "flowerpot bottom shoes"; Flag shoes worn by elderly women and working women, with flat wood as the bottom, are called flat embroidered shoes, also known as "net cloud shoes". Manchu women's shoes are embroidered on the surface, socks are mostly made of cloth, and soles have patterns. Manchu women's high top shoes. Manchu women are full, and the old customs like to wear wooden high-top shoes. The middle of the sole is made of wood, with flat front and round back, thin top and wide bottom. Its appearance and landing sign are like horseshoes, hence the name. The bottom is three or four inches high, and there are seven or eight inches behind the capital flag. The bottom of the wood is wrapped in white cloth. Upper, the rich are mostly satin, and the poor are mostly cloth, all of which are colored and embroidered with flower patterns. Those who are plain and have no flowers are the most taboo, so they are close to fierce clothes. Noble women often decorate uppers with jewels and jade, or add tassels to the toe. Girls only use it when they are thirteen or fourteen. After the Republic of China, it was rare.

Chinese straight collar coat

It is a coat that Manchu men often wear when riding horses. Mandarin jackets are divided into various forms, such as large lapels, double lapels and pipa lapels. After the mandarin jacket, it became a daily garment covering the robe. High-necked double-breasted, slit on all sides, waist-length, slightly shorter sleeves, robe sleeves can be exposed for three or four inches, and robe sleeves are rolled on the jacket sleeves, which is the so-called size sleeves. Nowadays, many small cotton-padded jackets worn by Manchu people evolved from mandarin jackets. In order to ride a horse conveniently, a short coat that reaches the navel and is open all around is put on the outside of the robe to keep out the cold. Nowadays, the double-breasted cotton-padded jacket worn by many Manchu people evolved from the jacket.

Sleeveless jacket

The vest is not the original costume of Manchu, but evolved from the "half arm" of Han nationality. The vest can be divided into a pair of lapels, a twisted lapel, a straight lapel and a pipa lapel. Women's vests should also have embroidered edges. There are cotton clips, or silk or cloth on the vest, which cover the robe.

Large pull wing

Hairstyles of Manchu aristocratic women in Qing Dynasty. It prevailed in Guangxu and Xuantong years. Its type, the top hair is combed into a bun, and the back hair is dovetail. In addition, the serrated soap board made of black satin, velvet or yarn is called the "head board", and its bottom is made of iron wire into a bowl-shaped buckle, which is called the "head seat". Buckle it on the top of the head and wrap it with hair to fix it. This kind of "high as a memorial arch" fixed decoration is worn on the head when in use. Usually, a large colored silk flower is worn in the center of the headboard, which is called "straight head" or "straight flower", and beads, jade, Hosta, step shake and flowers are added, or a colored silk spike is embroidered on the right side. This hairstyle is named after the head is spread like wings.

leather boots lined with wula sedge/corvée labour formerly imposed on Xizang serfs

Most of them are leather shoes worn by Manchu people in rural areas in winter. Sewing with cowhide or pigskin, and using humulus as wadding, it is light and warm, suitable for hunting in winter and running on ice. It is one of the distinctive Manchu costumes, which has been worn in rural areas in Northeast China.