Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional festivals - Overview of ancient costumes
Overview of ancient costumes
During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, hats in the Tang Dynasty were designed to cover women's faces and prevent passers-by from peeping. This kind of hat is mostly made of rattan mats or felt hats, pasted with silk, and some are coated with tung oil for rain protection, and then decorated with soap gauze on the brim to make it droop to cover the face or whole body. This picture shows a woman wearing a colorful hat unearthed in Turpan, Xinjiang (Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes mural).
Song dynasty official costume
Casual clothes of Song Dynasty officials-The costumes of Song Dynasty officials include sacrificial clothes, court clothes, public clothes and casual clothes. Casual clothes are mainly shirts with round neck, wide sleeves or narrow sleeves, which can be worn by ordinary men and officials. Shantou in Sui and Tang Dynasties developed into the first suit for men in Song Dynasty. From emperors to officials, except for sacrificial ceremonies and big court meetings, they usually wear hoes. The shape of the hoe is also obviously different from that of the previous generation. Judging from the reflection of the image, the image of officials is mostly straight-footed, and musicians with lower servants, tolerance or status are mostly horizontal or crooked. There are also hard and soft things to pay attention to. This picture shows a scholar wearing a soft-footed round neck robe (part of "Spring outing and late return").
Casual clothes of Song Dynasty officials-The costumes of Song Dynasty officials include sacrificial clothes, court clothes, public clothes and casual clothes. Casual clothes are mainly shirts with round neck, wide sleeves or narrow sleeves, which can be worn by ordinary men and officials. Shantou in Sui and Tang Dynasties developed into the first suit for men in Song Dynasty. From emperors to officials, except for sacrificial ceremonies and big court meetings, they usually wear hoes. The shape of the hoe is also obviously different from that of the previous generation. Judging from the reflection of the image, the image of officials is mostly straight-footed, and musicians with lower servants, tolerance or status are mostly horizontal or crooked. There are also hard and soft things to pay attention to. A scholar with soft feet and a robe (part of Evonne's listening to songs).
Gan Qing Huanglong Houchaogua
The imperial robe of the Qing Dynasty Qianlong Empress, the dress of the Qing Dynasty empresses, double-breasted and round neck, sleeveless, open-air, embroidered with golden dragon patterns all over. However, there are several different models. The imperial robe pattern in this picture is divided into four layers from top to bottom, bounded by gold and brocade, with Yi Long embroidered on each shoulder of the upper layer and 10 dragon embroidered on the second, third and fourth layers respectively. A bright yellow tapestry is hung on the back of the collar, and the tapestry is decorated with jewels. The robe is worn outside the robe. This picture shows the dress of Queen Qing Qianlong.
Chu Guo GUI fu clothing
Embroidered single clothes and embroidery patterns of Chu ladies (unearthed from Chu Tomb No.1 Mazhuan, Jiangling, Hubei Province). There are more than ten pieces of costumes unearthed from Chu tombs in the middle of the Warring States period, including silks, silks, brocade, yarn, brocade, etc., which are the earliest physical objects seen at present. From the physical point of view, the styles of brocade robe and Zen garment are basically the same, that is, the front, back and two sleeves are one each, and the width of each piece is roughly equal to the width of the fabric itself. Right-handed, cross straight. The body, sleeves and hem are straight. Collars, sleeves, lapels and handrails are all hemmed, and the hemming at the sleeve ends is peculiar, usually with two colors of colorful tapestry.
Weijin scholar-bureaucrat clothing
Scholars in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties wore scarves and wide shirts (part of Sun Weigao). Gao was an outstanding figure painter in ancient China. Although it was written by Sun Wei, a painter in the Tang Dynasty, it has a strong charm of Wei and Jin Dynasties. The picture shows four scholars sitting cross-legged on the carpet, wearing small crowns or scarves and wide shirts. There is a waiter next to everyone, wearing wide-sleeved clothes. From the perspective of picture composition and character arrangement, it is the same as the brick-printed mural of "Seven Sages of Bamboo Forest" unearthed from the tomb of the Southern Dynasties in Xishanqiao, Nanjing. The costumes, figures and daily necessities of the characters are typical of the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties. 550)this.width=550' title= "Wei-Jin scholar-officials' clothing" >
There are two forms of literati clothing in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties: one is the clothing style of Han nationality, which inherits Qin and Han dynasties; First, ethnic costumes, attacking the North Pass. The clothing of Han men mainly includes shirts. There are obvious differences in style between shirts and dresses. According to the custom of the Han dynasty, anyone who calls it a robe must have a cuff and a mouthpiece. Don't take off your shirt, the cuffs are spacious. Shirts are not bound by clothes and other departments, so the clothing in Wei and Jin Dynasties became more and more extensive and became a custom, which has always influenced the clothing in the Southern and Northern Dynasties. From princes and celebrities to Li Shu people, wide shirts and big sleeves are the most important. This situation can be seen from the paintings handed down through the ages and the unearthed figures. In addition to shirts, men's wear also includes robes and skirts. This picture shows a scholar wearing a lapel robe in a bun or a towel (part of the school book map of Northern Qi Dynasty).
There are two forms of literati clothing in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties: one is the clothing style of Han nationality, which inherits Qin and Han dynasties; First, ethnic costumes, attacking the North Pass. The clothing of Han men mainly includes shirts. There are obvious differences in style between shirts and dresses. According to the custom of the Han dynasty, anyone who calls it a robe must have a cuff and a mouthpiece. Don't take off your shirt, the cuffs are spacious. Shirts are not bound by clothes and other departments, so the clothing in Wei and Jin Dynasties became more and more extensive and became a custom, which has always influenced the clothing in the Southern and Northern Dynasties. From princes and celebrities to Li Shu people, wide shirts and big sleeves are the most important. This situation can be seen from the paintings handed down through the ages and the unearthed figures. In addition to shirts, men's wear also includes robes and skirts. This picture shows a scholar wrapped in a silk scarf and shawl (a part of the book map of Beiqi school)
Zhao Wuling's Restoration of Khufu's Riding and Shooting in Warring States Period
Restoration map of Zhao Wuling's Wang Hufu's riding and shooting in Warring States. (Hu robe refers to the silver portrait of the Warring States period unearthed in Jincun, Luoyang; According to written records, the crown refers to the physical design unearthed in the Han dynasty; Boots were recovered from the physical objects unearthed from the Huns' Tomb in Inula, Monguno. At the end of the Warring States Period, the famous Zhao Wuling Wang Yi Fu. At that time, Zhao, one of the seven heroes of the Warring States, was located in the north, bordering on ethnic minorities such as Lou Fan. As far back as Wuding in Shang Dynasty, Yanyun, Ghost Square and Hu Lin in Northeast China began to rise. They live in high mountains and rugged hills, engage in grazing and hunting all the year round, and are good at riding and shooting. These ethnic groups often invade the south, plunder property and capture the population, and constantly bring suffering and threats to border people and national security. The conquest of these peoples has been going on, but because of the use of chariots, they can't win all the battles. To conquer these ethnic groups, the only way is to change the mode of fighting, turn chariot fighting into horseback fighting and develop cavalry units. But the development of cavalry has been slow,
First, it was difficult to ride a horse without a saddle at that time, but it was even more difficult to shoot an arrow when fighting immediately.
Second, there are no suitable clothes yet. It is not easy to ride a horse with traditional deep clothes, but it is not easy to change the coats and deep clothes handed down for thousands of years at once, so it has become a major event about strengthening national strength. After many twists and turns, after winning the support of some elites in the ruling group, King Wuling of Zhao took the lead in putting on Khufu with tight sleeves, trousers and boots as the monarch. The so-called Hu fu is actually the costumes of ethnic minorities in the northwest, which is very different from the Bo-Dai Han nationality in Take off your coat, Central China. Generally, short coats, trousers and leather boots are thin and narrow, which is convenient for activities. King Wuling of Zhao was the first person to adopt this kind of clothing and the earliest reformer in China's clothing history. The knee-length jacket is a major feature of Khufu, which was first used in the army and later introduced to the people and became a common costume.
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