What is the difference between "Tang brocade" and pre-Tang brocade?

Tang brocade is different from the traditional weaving method of the Han, Wei and Six Dynasties before the Tang Dynasty, which utilized the warp thread to start the flower, and called Han brocade "warp brocade" and Tang brocade "weft brocade". Other differences are as follows:

Shanghai, Zhou: mysterious, terrible, simple and simple style

Spring and Autumn and Warring States:

Embroidery embroidery: more silk, silk varieties of woven fabrics can be divided into coir, silk (dandy or onyx), qi, brocade, tapestry, group, embroidery and other 9 categories.

The characteristics of the era: a variety of forms of expression, the image tends to be flexible and vivid, realistic and large-scale. At this time the pattern is no longer focus on its original totem, witchcraft Zong ...... teach ...... meaning.

Tattoo features: interspersed, disc stacked, or several animal ensemble, or plant body **** raw, colorful, delicate style, constituting the formal beauty of the dragon and phoenix dance.

Classic pattern: coiled dragon and phoenix pattern

Qin and Han: ?

Silk fabric species: brocade, damask, qi, Luo, yarn, silk, onyx, dandy and so on.

Common patterns: clouds and air patterns (high and low irregular changes in the format), animal patterns, floral patterns, auspicious words, a variety of geometric patterns.

Embroidery stitches, mainly braid embroidery, also known as lockstitch embroidery - characterized by neat stitches and firm embroidery threads.

Han-style brocade in the pattern with a strong period characteristics. At that time, the rulers of the Han Dynasty were keen on the Taoist Jingchu sorcery doctrine of the immortals, and the style of brocade patterns in this period was similar to this.

The weaving process of Han-style brocade: the process is very complex, weaving time-consuming and laborious.

Three Kingdoms and Six Dynasties:

The brocade of this period is famous for the Shu brocade produced in Sichuan.

Weaving and embroidery patterns: changed the format of the Han Dynasty clouds and air patterns of high and low undulating irregular changes, constituting a regular wave-like skeleton, the formation of geometric division lines, and more stylized.

Tang Dynasty

Tang brocade process: using the weft threads to start the flower, the weaving method of two or three layers of warp threads sandwiching the weft, forming a kind of warp and border pattern organization. Therefore, the Tang brocade is different from the traditional weaving method of the Han and Wei Dynasties before the Tang Dynasty, which utilized the warp threads to start the flowers, and called the Han brocade "warp brocade" and the Tang brocade "weft brocade".

Tang brocade style: most of the Tang brocade colorful, exquisite patterns, out of the Hanwei "childish", which is inseparable from the use of the weft threads to start the flower of technological innovation.

Weft brocade has the advantage of being able to weave complex decorative patterns and gorgeous color effects. In addition, Tang brocade absorbed foreign decorative patterns on the basis of traditional patterns, so it has a fresh, gorgeous and rich artistic style. The emergence of weft brocade, in the history of Chinese silk has a pivotal significance. Although the weft brocade loom is more complex, but easy to operate, compared with the traditional Chinese brocade more conducive to the pattern of color and pattern of the delicate performance. Tang Dynasty brocade most of the colorful, exquisite pattern, out of the Hanwei "childish", which is inseparable from the use of the weft starting flower technical innovation.

With the opening of the Silk Road in the northwest oasis of the Han Dynasty, China and West Asia, Central Asia and other areas of cultural exchanges are more frequent, in which silk plays a very important role as a medium. Zhang Ji in the "Liangzhou words" said "the border city evening rain geese flying low, the reeds gradually want to Qi. Countless bells across the moraine, should pack white practice to Anxi". It is under the impact of this diversified culture, Jin and Tang silk presents an unprecedented emerging technology and the integration of Chinese and Western art style. As we all know, both the weft thread flower, or twill organization, are the western weaving tradition. In the extremely open Jin and Tang dynasties, known as the crown of the silk brocade not only from the plain brocade transition to the twill brocade, but also the organization of the flower from the warp line flower to the weft line flower.

Tang brocade development order can be divided into: the late Northern Dynasties or Sui Dynasty plain brocade, Sui or early Tang Dynasty twill brocade, Tang Dynasty twill brocade, gold brocade, etc.. Plain warp brocade is China's traditional brocade, to the Tang Dynasty, the number has declined significantly, a large number of appearances is the Sui Dynasty before and after the rise of the twill warp brocade. Due to the influence of the Western textile technology, at this time and the emergence of twill weft brocade.

Twill weft brocade The use of double-root plus a backhand to the "Z" flick (the mainland for the positive hand to the "S" weak twist) of the warp for the warp, the warp twist is stronger than the weft twist, the warp threads are arranged than the weft threads are sparse, with a thick and wide colored threads for the weft, and the weft threads to show the The pattern of the fabric. For the change of fabric pattern, the replacement of color shuttle is more convenient and flexible than the traditional Chinese method of drawing the warp threads, thus breaking the limitation of the traditional warp brocade pattern cycle is small, and it can weave out the pattern of large area.

The dark-flower silk fabric represented by damask is also a testimony. Dark flower thing, is a kind of weaving that shows the same color pattern on the original color ground, because the weaving pattern is not very obvious, so it is called dark flower fabric. Early damask is plain ground up flowers, this damask has been prevalent until the beginning of the Tang Dynasty. However, after the Tang Dynasty, it was changed to diagonal pattern. Aya was so prevalent in the Tang Dynasty that the court banned private weaving and used it as a raw material to make the regular clothes of all officials. Through frequent cultural exchanges, the Tang Dynasty craftsmen continued to learn from the nutrition of Western textile culture, not only improved the traditional technology, but also changed the traditional Chinese silk pattern, so that China's silk into a glorious golden age.