Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional festivals - Occasions of Hanbok

Occasions of Hanbok

Korean clothes are classified into different types according to different occasions. Modern Korean clothes can be classified into: festival clothes, hanami party clothes, birthday clothes, ceremonial dresses, wedding clothes and so on. Including: daily life type, ceremony type and specific occasion type. Ceremony dresses are worn on formal and grand occasions, such as a baby's first birthday, weddings, and funerals. Since Hanbok is a dress, few Koreans wear it in their daily lives except for festivals, formal occasions, and some old villages. There are some people who make modified Hanbok (also known as living Hanbok) for daily life, but overall, there are still more women than men wearing Hanbok, and most people wear Hanbok for grand occasions such as festivals and weddings. In North Korea, more people still wear hanbok, especially in rural areas, and some schools use modified hanbok as their uniforms.

Wedding dresses on the Korean Peninsula are bright and colorful. In the past, Korean civilians only wore colorful clothes for special festivals and celebrations, but usually wore white clothes. In the past, civilians were also only allowed to wear official clothes and more ceremonial headgear when they got married. Traditionally, the bride and groom a few days after the wedding for the Coin Pal (?) ceremony had to wear national dress.

For rich weddings, the women's dowry dress is usually a broadcloth with a red surface lined with blue, and the dress is patterned to represent the union of the two surnames and the source of all blessings. Or a green round shirt with five colors on the sleeves, while tied tightly from the armpits with a red silk and gold-embroidered braided belt tied at the back, and a tufted head is also worn. Korean noblewomen used to wear a green tangyi lined with red or a purple tangyi lined with pink as a wedding dress and a flower crown. Later on, a white broadcloth wedding dress also appeared. The groom wears a sarong and crown sash. A commoner groom usually wears the lowest rank of the Joseon Dynasty, the 9th rank official's uniform, and a black sarong. In contrast, court officials of rank wear their own official uniforms. The regimental collar is the official uniform worn by the palace officials in the course of their normal administrative duties. The color of the uniform and the color and pattern of the square patches on the chest and back symbolized the social status of the wearer. The regimental collar was first adopted in the 2nd year of Queen Jindeok's 28th reign in Silla (648 A.D.), and continued to be worn until the Joseon Dynasty. There were also people who wore chiguri baki for marriage.

The gwakgye was a large dress worn by Joseon princesses and wongmasters during the Goryeo and Joseon dynasties. It was decorated with ten noble plants and animals embroidered with red thread, which represented longevity, luck and wealth in Korean culture. Gwakgyo was also worn by royal women and noblewomen for their wedding ceremonies. In the Joseon Dynasty, Gwakgye was worn by women of the upper class at first, but in the later period, it was allowed to be worn by commoners as well. The fabrics of the dresses were made of date-red colored satin, patterned satin, and foreign satin, and the lining was mostly blue. The jacket and skirt were the regular clothes of women in the Joseon Dynasty, following the previous system, while only noble women were allowed to wear long shirts. Joseon Official Clothes (?) It is more elaborate and expensive than ordinary people's clothes. Certain styles and colors were only worn by the royal family of ancient Joseon. Official clothes are also differentiated according to the official position in the Joseon court.

Official Clothing (?)

During the Joseon Dynasty, the official dress of the King of Joseon was a dragon robe (?) with a gold pattern on a red background, and the dress of the Queen of Joseon was decorated with a red pattern on a red background. ), while the Queen of Joseon's uniform was decorated with a phoenix. Princesses, wongs and concubines' garments were then adorned with flower patterns. Senior court officials' garments are decorated with flowing clouds and cranes.

Pasteuri/Cheonwi (? /Cheorik)

System of deep clothing. Derived from the pasteuri, worn under a round-necked robe. Military uniform during the Joseon Kingdom era. Originally a white undershirt worn inside a regimental collar. Later, blue and red jeongri appeared after it was used as a jacket.

Hwangpo (yellow robe)

After the independence of the Kingdom of Joseon from the Qing Empire in 1897, Joseon became known as the Korean Empire, and the King of Joseon wore a yellow robe.

Ying Shirt (? /Aengsam)

Aengsam is the formal dress worn by Korean Confucian students at the imperial examinations and court ceremonies. Gwal-ot (? /Hwal-ot)

Gwal-ot is derived from jangbaeja (long pasted cloth), which represents longevity, good fortune and wealth in Joseon culture. It was also allowed to be worn by commoners in the later period. The fabrics of the gowns were made of jujube-red colored satin, patterned satin, and foreign satin; the lining was mostly blue, without patterns. Since the broadcloth is quite expensive, the common people use the green round shirt as the bride's wedding dress.

The round shirt (? /Wonsam)

The wonsam also comes from the long pasted shirt. During the Joseon Dynasty, the formal dress of royal women, noble women and noblewomen was a large-sleeved garment made of silk (silk) with gold leaf decorations representing the class on the shoulders, chest and front of the back. It is worn over a chigurashi skirt.

Hwang Wonsam: After the proclamation of the change of the name of Joseon to the Korean Empire in October 1897, the wonsam worn by the Empress of Joseon was changed to yellow. Green wonsam (/nok wonsam): The wonsam worn by the princesses and crown princesses of the Joseon Dynasty was green in color. It was decorated with the characters for longevity and happiness. The royal consort's green wonsam has a tea-colored patch and a double phoenix pattern on the chest and back. The green tunic was also a small dress worn by the queen, princesses, and masters at smaller celebrations, and it was the main dress of the high-ranking court ladies and noblewomen in the palace. Toward the end of the Joseon Dynasty, commoners were allowed to wear it at weddings, but the style was simpler. Most of the cuffs of the civilian dresses were made of colored satin instead of hot-stamped patterns to distinguish them from the court dresses. Kaesong Wonsam (/kaesong wonsam): A round shirt worn by Joseon nobles in the Kaesong area.

Tangui (?). /Tangui)

Tangyi is derived from the short pasted garment. Tangui is a chigori that often hangs down in the front, and the second ceremonial dress of royal women was used to attend important celebrations. The royal women's tangyi had gold trimming, while others did not. Coronet (? /Myonbok), the Zhai coat (? /Cheokui)

The Joseon coronation dress consists of a coronet crown (/Myonryugwan) and a gonbok (? /gonbok), and later on, the nine chapters of the Joseon king's coronation uniform were added to the system, such as the yukgye, the tassel crown, and the painted clothes, as well as the crimson painted standing, the large belt, the white painted center sheet, the jade, the red ribbon, the white roped square hearted curved collar, the crimson painted knee, the stockings, and the socks, etc. The royal dress of the Joseon king was made of the color of the sky blue, which was the queen's color. After the defeat of the Qing Dynasty in the Sino-Japanese War and the independence of Joseon, the Empress of Joseon wore a celestial blue tunic as a queen's exclusive rank. Since the rise of Confucianism, Confucian scholars in Joseon have been wearing ramie ramie suits according to the Book of Rites - Deep Clothing and have been called by the names of robes and clothes, such as Daikangyi, Zhongzhimo, and Xiaokangyi. According to Yi Dian, a scholar of the Joseon Dynasty, "the eastern custom is to use the sign and the white cloth robe as the most honored clothing, and it is used for both good and bad luck." The style of Zhouyi is the same as the jacket, but longer than the jacket, hanging down to the knees, is the dress of adult men. There is a single, folder, cotton, commonly used ramie, kapok, satin and other production, the color more green or gray. Taoist robe, mostly sewn with linen, oblique collar, left obeisance, wide sleeves, hem long to the feet, before and after the same shoulder-width cloth hanging, vertical hem, the upper part of the chest tie Taoist robe belt.

The long coat (? /Chang-ot)

Noble women at the end of the Joseon Dynasty had to wear a long coat to cover their face and upper body in any public ****ing place.

Chouyi (/durumagi)

Originating from the direct suffix, chouyi was initially worn by court officials and the royal family on a daily basis. Later, ordinary people gradually began to wear choroki on special and important occasions. In modern Korea, the chorgyo is used as a warm coat worn over the chiguri.

Dopo (?). /Dopo)

Dopo is a type of robe, derived from gown. A common dress for Joseon men. It was the coat of the scholar class in the middle of the Joseon Dynasty (1600-1910 CE). Ordinary people could only wear it on special occasions such as family festivals.

Hakchangui (鹤氅衣/Hakchangui)

Originally derived from the Chinese crane cloak, the hakchangui was the attire of the scholarly class during the Goryeo and Joseon dynasties. "Hak" means "study" in ancient Joseon, so it was worn by scholars and nobles.

Shimui (深衣? /Shimui)

In Joseon, Shimui was the attire of the scholarly class in their leisure time. The typical shimui has a straight neckline, but there are also shimui with square lapels ( ? /bangyeongkit shimui).

Straight-necked robes (/Jignyeongpo)

Straight-necked robes were the clothes of lower-level government officials in the Goryeo Dynasty. By the Joseon Dynasty era, the straight-necked robe also became clothing for ordinary men. Chilguri (, Romanized Jeogori)

Chilguri was used as a top coat for both men and women in Joseon. During the Baekje-Silla era, Jeogori was called "Boksan" in Baekje and "Yuji" in Silla. It was not until the Goryeo Dynasty that the name Chilguri was recorded for the first time, and it was written in Chinese characters as "Chilguri" or "Short Chilguri," and it is likely that the name Chilguri was influenced by Mongolia. Originally, the chiguri was waist-length. The white silk placket emphasized the woman's neck. The chiguri consists of five parts, namely, the garment (?) The bodice (?), the lapel (?) The five parts of the Akaguri are the yoke (? /half-breasted), a sash (?) and sleeves. In order to fasten the short blouse, a sash is sewn on each of the two front plackets, and the long belt of the Akaguri for women hangs down in front of the long skirt, which also serves as a decorative feature. Akaguri cuffs are the lower part of the sleeves of a short jacket, and are characterized by a natural softness that resembles the curve of the eaves of a traditional Korean house. There is a difference between men's and women's chilguri. Men's chilguri is characterized by thick, flat lines. The women's style is characterized by ornate decorations and short, beautiful curves.

Gat-jeogori (/Gat-jeogori)

A women's jeogori that is slightly larger than a typical jeogori, with a rabbit fur lining and a silk outer layer.