Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional festivals - What are the common characteristics of national costumes?
What are the common characteristics of national costumes?
First, there are many kinds of ethnic minorities in China, which are widely distributed. For a long time, the vast number of ethnic minority areas have inconvenient transportation and difficult communication, so ethnic costumes are colorful and rich in costume culture.
There are 55 ethnic minorities in China, and some ethnic minorities have many branches. For example, Miao people are divided into five categories: red seedlings, black seedlings, white seedlings, seedlings and flower seedlings, among which flower seedlings are big-headed seedlings, one-horned seedlings, veiled seedlings and flower-footed seedlings, all of which are divided by different costumes. In this way, not only different ethnic groups have different costumes, but also different costumes within the same ethnic group because of different branches, which makes the costumes of ethnic minorities in China particularly rich.
No matter from the material and color, no matter from the style and tower matching, the costumes of China ethnic minorities; Very rich. Summarizing the structural forms of clothing culture for thousands of years, it can be roughly divided into two categories: one is called "structural form", and the style feature of this kind of clothing is "highlighting the human body"; The other can be called "unstructured form". The structural design of this kind of clothing does not require highlighting the human body, but requires the clothing style to decorate the human body as the main feature. The colors of China minority costumes can be roughly divided into three types: First, colorful red, purple, blue and green are decorative features, and their tone levels are very obvious, with great contrast and contrast between color blocks, so the visual impact is very strong. Secondly, although the colors of clothing are bright and bright, they are not complicated and messy. Generally, they are mainly light colors, showing an elegant and quiet aesthetic taste, which is a way of color matching; Third, advocate black and blue as the main colors in clothing, solemn, calm and simple.
Although due to the influence of history and environment, there are some differences in the design of clothing decorative patterns of various ethnic groups in China, there is a tendency of convergence in the design of clothing decorative patterns, that is, taking them from nature.
Secondly, due to the differences in natural environment, national customs and aesthetic tastes, the costumes of ethnic minorities in China show great differences between the north and the south, mountains and rivers and grasslands, showing different styles and characteristics.
China's natural conditions are very different between north and south; It is cold and snowy in the north, with vast forests and grasslands. Most of the northern minorities living in it make a living by hunting pigs and animal husbandry. It's warm and rainy in the south, and the hills alternate with each other. Most ethnic minorities living here are engaged in agriculture. Different natural environments, modes of production and lifestyles lead to different national personalities and psychology, as well as different clothing styles and characteristics.
Mongolian, Tibetan, Kazak, Kirgiz, Tajik, Yugur, Tu and other ethnic minorities who live in plateau grasslands and engage in animal husbandry mostly dress in animal fur. Clothes, trousers and coats sewn with sheepskin are mostly plain, and some are inlaid with colored cloth or fine wool on the collar, cuffs, skirt and hem. Their clothing style is wide robe and big sleeves, heavy and solemn. The southern minority areas are suitable for growing hemp and cotton; Self-woven linen and homespun are the main uses of dresses. Most of the tools used are simple, but the fabrics are exquisite and the patterns are wonderful. Due to the hot and humid weather, the dress is short, narrow and light, and the style is lively and changeable.
Thirdly, due to various historical, geographical, political and economic reasons, until the middle of the last century, all ethnic minorities in China were still at different stages of social development and corresponding productivity levels, resulting in profound differences, so the cultural content displayed by ethnic minority costumes has obvious levels.
Due to various historical, geographical, political and economic reasons, before liberation, some ethnic minorities in China had obviously sprouted capitalism, while others remained at the end of primitive communes, showing great imbalance in social development. For example, before liberation, among the 25 ethnic minorities in Yunnan, the capitalist factors of Bai, Hui and some Yi have developed quite well; The vast number of Zhuang, Hani, Naxi, Bai and Yi nationalities have entered the feudal landlord system. Dai people entered the feudal Lord system; The Yi nationality in Xiaoliangshan is a typical slavery. However, a considerable number of ethnic minorities, such as Jinuo, Bulang, Jingpo, Dulong, Nu, some Lisu and Wa, still remain at the end of the primitive commune. The Naxi nationality (Mosuo people) in Yongning still retains the remnants of matriarchal system. This situation also exists to varying degrees in other provinces where ethnic minorities live in concentrated communities. In this way, the cultural content reflected by minority costumes is hierarchical.
Fourth, China's ethnic minority costumes are facing the impact of social modernization and the requirements of reform, and some traditional costumes have changed.
Reform and opening up have brought great changes to the way of life of the people all over the country. The development of commodity economy has injected vitality into the previously closed and backward minority mountainous areas and brought a lot of information, including many modern and fashionable popular information. In this case, China minority costume culture is facing a huge impact. Because some ethnic minority costumes use a lot of materials, are complicated in decoration and technology, are difficult to make, are inconvenient to wear and are difficult to wash, many young people in ethnic minority areas change to wear Han costumes, and even some areas can't see ethnic costumes.
White clothing
Bai men and women generally advocate white, and white clothes are the most important. Dali Bai men like to wrap white or blue baotou, wear white double-breasted coat, black collar coat, wide trousers, towing, and some like to wear hanging bags embroidered with beautiful patterns. In other areas, Bai men like to wear a melon hat, a big coat, a sheepskin collar or several leather collars, which are called "three drops of water". Look honest and handsome, free and easy. Bai women's dress, which enjoys the reputation of "Golden Flower", is delicious and colorful. Most women in Dali wear white coats, red vests or light blue vests with velvet black vests. The silver ornaments of "three beards" and "five beards" are hung on the right button, and embroidered banners are tied around the waist. It is embroidered with patterns of butterflies, bees, etc. with black cord, and it is wearing blue wide pants and embroidered white shoes. Most of them are wearing new silk and silver bracelets and rings. Married women put their hair in a bun, unmarried girls hang down their braids or braid them at the top, and some people wrap their flower headscarves under their braids with red ropes, exposing the white tassels fluttering at the sides, dyeing the unique charm of Bai girls' headdresses and hairstyles. Young women in Jianchuan also like to wear small hats or "fishtail hats". Bai women in Xishan and Baoshan areas of Eryuan often tie their hair on it, insert silver tubes, then wrap their heads with black cloth, wear long skirts with right lapels and embroidered belts. Sleeves and trouser legs like to be embroidered with lace of different colors and widths, and some even like to tie leggings, which are very symmetrical, harmonious and handsome. In a word, although there are some regional differences in Bai costumes all over the country, they all have the characteristics of bright colors, harmonious background, exquisite embroidery and simplicity and solemnity.
Bai costumes are slightly different according to different settlements, but the overall characteristics are: bold color, light color, deep color contrast, strong contrast, bright and harmonious; Exquisite embroidery, usually fringed flowers, complicated but not miscellaneous decoration. Investigating the relationship between regional characteristics and the characteristics of Bai costumes, we can generally find such a changing trend: the more gorgeous the Bai costumes are when you look south, the more elegant they are when you look north; Compared with the dam area, the Bai people in the mountainous area are more brightly dressed, while the Bai people in the dam area are relatively simple.
Bai women's dress is an artistic masterpiece of modeling and color matching. Young women's clothing mainly includes headdress, coat, collar robe, vest and trousers. Coat is mostly white, light yellow, lake blue or light green, coat is black or red collar, right button is hung with silver ornaments of "three whiskers" and "five whiskers", waist is embroidered or dark short waist, blue or white trousers are placed under it, or the color is the same, or the clothes, coat, trousers and waist are the same, and harmony is sought in the comparison of multi-color blocks. Some are decorated with bright yellow jackets and trousers of the same color, while others are decorated with Red Velvet collars. Some are decorated with lake blue or green coats and black velvet collars, and then colored with light-colored waists, dark edges and dark belts, which are simple, bright, dignified, eye-catching and generous, and have no sense of fragmentation.
Bai women's headdresses are very gorgeous and often match their upper body wear. The headdresses worn by Bai women in different regions have different characteristics. Dali women wear headscarves, and unmarried people braid their hair on them, with red and white wool wrapped in their braids and red and white wool tassels hanging on the left; Married people put their hair in a bun and embroider clothes with Bai girls in Dali.
Korea clothes
White is the favorite color of Korean clothing, which symbolizes purity, kindness, nobility and sacredness. Therefore, Koreans have been called "white people" since ancient times, calling themselves "white compatriots". Korean national costumes can be divided into official clothes, casual clothes and so on. The structure of these clothes is unique. The straight line from the shoulder to the sleeve head of the coat is the same as the curve of the collar, hem and sleeve belly, which constitutes the combination of curve and straight line, without unnecessary decoration, and embodies the characteristics of the ancient "white man" robe.
Official clothes are the clothes of princes and nobles in past dynasties, which are different due to different official positions and positions, but the basic styles are basically the same.
People's clothes are finely divided.
Korean men love to wear bloomers, mostly white, and Baki and Guke are two of them ("Baki" and "Guke" refer to traditional Korean clothes "pants" and "vest"). "Bucky" has big crotch legs, which are easy to wear on the ground. It is suitable for its habit of sitting cross-legged. The trouser legs are tied with ribbons to keep out the cold. Then there is "Guke", which is usually worn outside the coat of "Zegaoli", with satin on the surface and fur or cloth inside. It has three pockets and five buttons, which makes it look special. A man's coat is short, with a diagonal placket, wide sleeves, a slit on the left and no buttons. Ribbons are nailed to both sides of the front door placket and tied above the right door placket when dressing. They also like black or other colored coats (vests) with buttons on the back. Some also wear Taoist robes or Korean robes. Taoist robes used to be used by literati and Confucian scholars, but later they became dresses for men to go out. Robes can be worn as coats and can be divided into singles, clips and cotton. Wear a short coat or cotton wool coat in winter and bloomers in winter. This kind of trousers has a long and wide waist and large crotch and legs, so it is convenient to sit cross-legged on the kang. When wearing, the front part of the waistband is folded and tied with a belt, and the lower opening of the trouser leg is tied with a cloth belt.
Women's clothing is generally white, divided into "Zegaoli" and long skirt, which is the most traditional clothing in Korea. "Zegaoli" is the favorite shirt of Korean people. No buttons, tied with cloth. Women's sleeves, skirts and armpits are inlaid with colored satin edges, which are chic, beautiful and generous. Long skirt is the main dress of Korean women, which has long folds and can be divided into wrap skirt, tube skirt, long skirt, short skirt and apron. Young women and girls like to wear pleated vests.
A short skirt over the knee is convenient for work. With the development of textile industry, the colors of materials worn by women are more colorful. Only the traditional national style of short skirt and long skirt remains unchanged for a long time, because it conforms to the aesthetic psychology of Korean women and fully embodies their virtues of gentleness, kindness, diligence and simplicity. Middle-aged and elderly women wear wrapped skirts and long skirts, and cotton (leather) vests in winter. Wrapped skirt is a kind of seamless skirt material, which consists of skirt waist, skirt hem and skirt band. Narrow on the top and wide on the bottom, the skirt is full and wide, and there are many fine pleats on the upper end of the skirt. The nepotism is hidden on both sides of the skirt waist and tied on the right waist side after being wrapped around the waist. Because this kind of skirt is very long, in order not to mop the floor when wearing it, one end of the skirt is usually lifted from the right and stuffed into lace. When wearing this skirt, you must wear a plain white petticoat underneath.
Korean children wear colorful tops, which are as bright as rainbows, making them more clever and lovely. Koreans always think that the rainbow is a symbol of light and beauty, so they like to make clothes for their children with seven-color silks and satins, in order to make them beautiful and happy.
Boat shoes are unique to Koreans. Shoes look like a boat, with slightly upturned toe and made of artificial leather or rubber, which is soft and comfortable. Men's shoes are generally black, while women's shoes are mostly white, sky blue and green. In addition, there is a colorful top in Korean clothing, which is made of colored satin, symbolizing happiness and light. It is usually worn at parties and festivals. Koreans wore clogs and leather clogs in the early days, then sandals, Ma Xie and rubber shoes appeared, and now they usually wear rubber shoes or leather shoes.
China's national costume culture is composed of Han costume culture and many minority costume cultures. In the long process of historical development, the Chinese nation has created a complex and special cultural system, and formed a unique and common national costume style. For example, Tujia people used to have their own independent costumes, but because they lived together with Miao and Han nationalities for a long time, they promoted exchanges and interactions in various fields, including costume culture, and formed some similar characteristics with Miao and Han nationalities. Although the Mongolians and Koreans in Northeast China live together in one place, most of the Mongolian costumes in Northeast China are robes, and Koreans do not wear robes, which forms the distinctive symbolic costume characteristics of the two nationalities. In essence, China's national costume features and design styles are the embodiment of the national spirit of the Chinese nation, such as emphasizing Xiu De, pursuing perfection, emphasizing tolerance and advocating harmony and unity. It contains the aesthetic essence of the traditional cultures of all ethnic groups in China, and forms the distinctive cultural characteristics of China costumes.
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