14 Introduction of Hanfu Forms

The four shapes of Hanfu 14 are introduced as follows:

1, Ququ

Shape: connected system

Quluan, the full name of Quluan robe, is reported by archaeology to be wrapped in an inner robe. It belongs to the up-and-down cutting type and is classified as "deep clothes and Hanfu", so it is also called winding deep clothes. Ballad robes made in the revival of contemporary Hanfu include single ballads made by imitating cultural relics, multi-song ballads made by referring to figurines, and "short ballads" showing petticoats. Its historical style prototype was popular from pre-Qin to Han Dynasty.

Step 2 dress

Shape: top and bottom.

A big dress is a name for the style under the coat, because the coat is named after a double coat. Pleated skirts or horse face skirts are common collocation. This kind of clothing has been recorded from the Tang Dynasty to the Republic of China. Because there was a prosperous period of big dresses in Ming dynasty, modern big dresses refer to the wearing of big dresses in Ming dynasty.

Due to the influence of the Ming Dynasty, South Korea also followed the dress of the Ming Dynasty in the early Li Dynasty, and gradually developed its own national characteristics, which evolved into a common chiguli dress style in modern Korean clothing.

3. Half-arm skirt

Shape: top and bottom.

Half-arm skirt, that is, wearing a short coat with half sleeves and a long skirt. Shen Congwen explained in the study of ancient Chinese costumes: "Half-arm, also known as half-sleeve, is a collarless (or lapel) and double-breasted (or pullover) jacket developed from Wei and Jin Dynasties, which is characterized by elbow-length sleeves and waist-length sleeves." Half-arm was first popular in the court of Sui Dynasty, and was first served by court officials and female history, and gradually spread to the people in Tang Dynasty.

4. Xunzi

Shape: top and bottom.

Xunzi, also known as Beizi and Zi Chu. Xunzi is usually regarded as a common dress in women's wear in the Song Dynasty, and it is also common in the modern times of "Hanfu fever". It is usually a long coat with a straight collar, double breasts under the coat, high right sides of the hem, tube top or lapel pleats, and a pleated skirt under the coat. In the Ming dynasty, people often called big sleeves cloaks.

Five, one to one.

Shape: universal cutting system

Gaby, a sleeveless gown, originated in the Song Dynasty. A name "vest" was always used (two vests refer to different clothes) and was later introduced to Mongolia. According to "History of the Yuan Dynasty", "Make another dress with a skirt in front, which is twice as long as the front, and go to the leader to decorate it with two things called' Gaby' to show the bow and horse, so as to imitate it at any time."

6. cloak

Shape: universal cutting system

Cloak is a sleeveless coat in Hanfu system. It is said that it evolved from hemp fiber, and was originally woven from brown hemp to protect against rain and snow, so it is called "hat".

It was not until the Ming and Qing Dynasties that most silk fabrics were made, not limited to rainy and snowy days. At that time, it was called coat, which was a kind of clothing to keep out the cold. There are long and short styles, also known as "lotus coat", "a bell" and "a round package" Used to keep out the wind and cold. The short man was once called Bi, and the old man was also called cloak. It is usually sleeveless, and a cloak with sleeves is usually Amin's cloak.

7. Collar and skirt

Shape: top and bottom.

This cross-collared skirt is made under the coat. It is characterized by a cross collar at the top. The lower skirt is pleated. This coat is shorter, while the skirt below is longer. The sleeves of the upper cover are long or short according to different times and the identity of the wearer. Cross-neck skirt is a common style of Hanfu, which can be worn by both men and women. It has different forms in different periods, among which the Song Dynasty is the most common.

8. A chest-high skirt

Shape: top and bottom.

Style: The chest-length skirt under the coat is a kind of skirt. In ancient times, women's skirts were not very tall, but in the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties, a very tall skirt with waist beam appeared, which was called high waist skirt in some clothing history. According to people's research on it now, it is generally renamed as a chest-length skirt.

9. waist-length skirt

Shape: top and bottom.

Waist-length skirt is a kind of skirt, named after the waist is flush with the waist. The upper lapels of waist-length skirts can be horizontal lapels or straight lapels (that is, lapels do not intersect vertically downward). Compared with high waist skirts, waist-length skirts are more common. According to the score, it can be divided into cross-neck waist-length skirt and straight-neck waist-length skirt (double front waist-length skirt). According to the object of wearing, it can be divided into women's and waist skirts and men's and waist skirts.

10, topless skirt

Shape: top and bottom.

A topless skirt is a subspecies of skirt style. Naked collar, also known as u-collar, is a short coat developed from Wei and Jin Dynasties. Due to the widespread popularity of Hu culture in all classes in the Tang Dynasty, it became a fashion for women in the Tang Dynasty to wear small sleeve clothes.

At the beginning of the Tang Dynasty, the characteristics of shirts inherited from the Sui Dynasty, generally tight-fitting, bare-necked and narrow-sleeved, but the opening of shirts gradually expanded, reflecting the female chest curve; Paired with pleated skirts or light skirts. This kind of clothing was very popular in the court of Sui Dynasty. It was first filmed by court officials and women's history, and it didn't spread to the people until the Tang Dynasty. This is a modern make-up.

1 1, miscellaneous

Shape: connected system

The variation style of curved deep clothes is miscellaneous deep clothes, also known as miscellaneous hanging clothes. Appeared in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, this period of frequent regime change was also a period of multicultural integration. Colored clothes in Wei and Jin dynasties inherited the customs of Qin and Han dynasties and absorbed foreign cultural elements.

At this time, it is typical that the hem changes into a dovetail-shaped wide band with a wide top and a sharp bottom, which is called fiber, and the two streamers protruding from the middle and sides of the apron are called curl. When walking, lapels flutter, which is called miscellaneous clothes hanging.

Zhili 12

Shape: connected system

Straight, also known as ruffle, comes from Shuo Wen Jie Zi. The ruffle is square and straight, which is different from ruffle. Refers to the big breasts of clothes. The hem of the straight purlin is cut vertically, and the hem of the garment is at the side or behind the side. There is no sewing lace on the clothes, and it is fixed with a belt made of cloth or leather.

After the Han dynasty, due to the improvement of underwear, the collaterals that prevailed in the pre-Qin and early Western Han dynasties seemed redundant. Based on the historical development principle that economy is better than beauty, after the Eastern Han Dynasty, direct tune gradually became popular and became the main mode of deep service. Since then, straight purlin and its derivative costumes have appeared in all previous dynasties.

13, Daan

Shape: universal cutting system

Cloak, also known as crane shroud or shroud, was recorded in Jin Dynasty and later used by Taoism. In the Song Dynasty, scholars were very obedient to cranes. In the Ming dynasty, literati wore it as a coat, especially when it was cold, to keep out the wind and cold. Until the late Qing Dynasty, Yi costumes still existed in traditional folk activities as Taoist etiquette costumes.

14, clothing

Shape: universal cutting system

Men's wear styles in Taoist robes and Hanfu system. From the "pleating" of ancient Hanfu in China (according to legend, it was made by Zhou Wuwang) to the evolution of Taoist robes in the Ming Dynasty; It is the coat of the ancients when they live at home, and it can also be used as a lining robe or a wedding dress for civilian men. In addition, there is a kind of costume in Taoism, also called Taoist robe.