Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional festivals - Why is the Zhongshan suit not popular up to now? What are the disadvantages?
Why is the Zhongshan suit not popular up to now? What are the disadvantages?
Then according to your logic, the suit also has design deficiencies. Some fat people weighing 200 kg or 300 kg are not suitable for wearing, so they should wear a tie, so as to match and coordinate. Of course, you can not wear them. You can even put on your hat and shoes, just like Guo Da in the sketch. It doesn't matter. And that suit, because there is a big hole in the chest, it is filled with air conditioning in winter. Just because it is not suitable for a few people to wear, it is said that the design is insufficient. Then nothing in the world is perfect, and some women are not suitable for wearing flat shoes. Does this mean that flat shoes are not perfect? Some women are not suitable for wearing high heels, so high heels are not perfect?
In my opinion, cheongsam is perfect, dignified and elegant, gentle and virtuous, showing the beauty of oriental women. It is also not suitable for short and fat women, but it is not required for every woman to wear it. Besides cheongsam, there are other clothes to choose from. But now, except Venus, no women are found wearing cheongsam. Walking on the streets of Tokyo, it is impossible for all Japanese women to wear cheongsam, but there are always some. Even if you walk on the streets of Shanghai, you can see women wearing kimonos, and Korean and Korean women still wear national long skirts. No matter Japanese kimono or Korean dress, it is not as beautiful, dignified and slim as cheongsam, especially Korean dress, which gives people the feeling that the proportion is not harmonious and the feeling is below the chest. However, people still wear them, especially in festivals and large-scale celebrations, wearing national costumes and traditional costumes to dance in the square. To put it bluntly, it is forgetful, and it is easier to accept foreign culture, even if it is dross culture and abnormal aesthetics.
The name of Zhongshan suit comes from Dr. Sun Yat-sen, the "father of the country". 1923 put forward the design requirements and entrusted a Guangdong tailor named Huang Longsheng to sew. It is said that the design inspiration comes from a Japanese student dress-stand-collar suit. There is also a saying that the design style of Zhongshan suit comes from the "enterprise collar" popular among Chinese in Southeast Asia at that time. The characteristics of Zhongshan suit:
Therefore, we can see that some government officials are beginning to like to wear Chinese tunic suits, and they also need to keep their political awareness advanced. Progressive students also like to wear it, because the origin of this kind of clothing originally comes from student clothes and is very practical for students. Compared with the backwardness of standard robes and jackets and the practicality of suits, Zhongshan suit does have its own distinctive characteristics and functions.
Westerners call the Zhongshan suit "Mao suit", which shows that the real spread era of Zhongshan suit is far away in the Republic of China. In the era of politics, suits naturally do not have the spiritual characteristics of an awakened ancient nation. Similarly, we can refer to India's Nehru suit "Nehru jacket" (Gandhi would rather go shirtless). Nowadays, the political label of clothing has disappeared, and people can freely choose clothing styles and colors. Black, white, gray and blue are no longer the designated colors, and the Zhongshan suit is no longer a folk designated style. This is the progress of the times, just as everyone's thoughts will not be unified, and clothes should be colorful.
In modern times, Zhongshan suit is still regarded as a standard by some people, and it is a kind of minority clothing. Of course, the premise is that you have a good figure. Too fat to look bloated, too thin to hold. This is far less common than robes and dresses, and the colors are not as versatile as casual clothes. In a word, it has many limitations and it is difficult to enter the public's sight.
Zhongshan suit is named after Dr. Sun Yat-sen, the pioneer of China revolution. It is designed on the basis of Japanese students' clothing (Zhongshan suit). Personally, I think the Chinese tunic suit is very suitable for China people to wear, but why it has become popular until now is nothing more than too formal. Although there are not as many people wearing it now as before, on formal occasions, national leaders still wear Chinese tunic suits to face the world many times.
Wearing a stand-up collar and lapels when getting married is old-fashioned and not suitable for young people.
These clothes were made by a tailor in the town, and two sets were made at one go. This is one of them.
This is another set. Personally, I prefer this one.
Just because the Zhongshan suit is not popular doesn't mean it has any shortcomings. People's aesthetics are always changing, so is the so-called fashion. It's hard to say when the Chinese tunic suit will be popular again.
What I am worried about now is that there are fewer and fewer tailors who can make Zhongshan suits, and the production process of Zhongshan suits is very troublesome. I remember when I made the tunic suit ten years ago, many tailors said that they couldn't make it, let alone the tunic suit, and they didn't even want to make a suit. To put it bluntly, it will be very troublesome. It is better to make women's clothes quickly. It is rare to see the figure of Zhongshan suit now. Although some brands of men wear Chinese-style stand-up collars, few people wear them after all. Among young people, especially after 95 and 00, few people wear them. To make the tunic suit popular again, it needs the promotion of fashion circle.
There is nothing wrong with the Zhongshan suit. Premier Zhou Enlai wore a Chinese tunic suit all his life. In recent years, it is mainly influenced by "suits", and everything likes to "connect" with foreign countries, which leads many people to be a little uninterested in their own things. In fact, many of China's own goods are not necessarily bad. Secondly, due to the influence of casual coat, this kind of clothing is casual, easy to put on and take off, and widely applicable.
The Zhongshan suit is serious and tall, and needs many people to wear it. Chunky people definitely don't look good in them, and most people really can't control the straightness and self-cultivation of the Zhongshan suit. Zhongshan suit was popular during the Revolution of 1911, and it also has profound meaning. The first four pockets represent four dimensions: courtesy, justice, honesty and shame. The bag cover is an inverted pen container, which means ruling the country by writing. The five buttons on the front indicate the separation of five powers (executive, legislative, judicial, examination and supervision). The three buttons on the cuff represent the Three People's Principles (nationality, civil rights and people's livelihood). A complete back represents the great cause of peaceful reunification of the country. The collar is closed with lapels, which shows the rigor of the concept of governing the country. Zhongshan suit was first worn by Dr. Sun Yat-sen and named after it. Modern people have more choices of clothes, and all kinds of novel clothes emerge one after another. The serious and rigorous style of Zhongshan suit doesn't quite fit with modern concepts. Therefore, few people choose Chinese tunic suit again. Zhongshan suit was invented and advocated by Sun Yat-sen, and there have been two opinions about the specific time of its appearance-1919 and 1923, but there is no objection that Zhongshan suit has a very strong political meaning from the very beginning of its invention.
1925, when Sun Yat-sen died, the Kuomintang began to portray him as the father of the country, symbolizing him and vigorously advocating the worship of the whole society. 1928, the Ministry of the Interior of the Kuomintang required all staff to wear cotton tunic suits, and the Nanjing Municipal Government also required all staff to wear tunic suits. 1929, the 22nd State Council of the National Government made a resolution on the dress code for civil servants: "Chinese tunic suit is used for uniforms", and the Chinese tunic suit tree is adopted as the legal uniform. After that, it was strictly enforced in government agencies. Until 1936, Chiang Kai-shek ordered all civil servants to wear uniform Chinese tunic suit uniforms. At the same time, the Zhongshan suit is still promoted in schools, and teachers and students are also required to wear it. During the New Life Movement, the tunic suit was also promoted as a wedding dress. It can be said that the popularity of Chinese tunic suit in the Republic of China was largely influenced by the will of state power, rather than the pure trend of fashion.
Of course, in addition to top-down implementation, there are bottom-up imitation and pursuit. Zhongshan suit is a domestic product, symbolizing revolution. Businessmen use it to carry out politically correct commercial propaganda, and intellectual elites and progressive students use it to express their political ideals and demands.
Dress-up in the streets of the Republic of China
Intellectuals' Clothing in the Republic of China
Intellectuals' Clothing in the Republic of China
Photo of National Southwest Associated University, Zhongshan suit is only a part of it.
Even so, the Zhongshan suit has not become a popular dress. As a formal suit with relatively exquisite tailoring and materials, people at the bottom naturally wear less. For intellectuals, it can only be said that it goes hand in hand with suits and gowns. Relatively speaking, the tunic suit only bound officials, so it became a symbol of Kuomintang bureaucrats at that time.
* * * The producer has always regarded the Zhongshan suit as a revolutionary and progressive costume. From Yan 'an period to 1949, * * * producers used Zhongshan suit as their daily and official dress. After 1949, under the guidance of the new regime, the Zhongshan suit became a symbol of the new look of the new society, and it can be said that it gained more popularity than during the Republic of China. Coupled with the closed social environment and criticism of feudal capitalism, Zhongshan suit became the national costume at this time. It can't be said that everyone must wear it every day, but it is absolutely overwhelming. The popularity of Zhongshan suit is a product of political consciousness, which has nothing to do with the aesthetics of the dress itself.
Liang Sicheng, Lao She and Mei Lanfang all changed into Chinese tunic suits.
Crosstalk artists also wear Chinese tunic suits.
After the reform and opening up, the world culture entered China, the political shackles were loosened, and personal consciousness began to awaken. So more fashionable, more in line with the outside world, more personalized clothes began to appear in China, and the old, single and serious Chinese tunic suit was abandoned. It is not surprising that a political costume without political blessing cannot compete with market-oriented free choice.
Moreover, the Chinese tunic suit is a formal suit, and it needs to stand upright when wearing it, which will inevitably bring some discomfort and inconvenience. Who will compete with themselves in their daily clothes? Even suits are now only used for formal occasions or professional norms.
Don't say how it came from, just how it was "ownerless".
Any expert may be inspired by the reference.
Chinese tunic suit should be called "national costume", and I like it very much.
Since I learned to cut my own clothes, I have made several Chinese tunic suits for myself, paying special attention to the scratch of the collar, the smoothness of the upper pocket, the width of the hanging pocket and the smoothness of the sleeves. It is very energetic to wear!
The reason for not being "popular" should be the "influence" of zipper clothing, all of which are zippers! Lazy people pretend to save trouble! They are all fashionable, and there are coats everywhere. They can only open their hearts when they are hot, and they have no China characteristics at all.
Now, which dress can you say represents China? Completely replaced by zippers and suits! China's characteristics disappeared without a trace, saying that life is fast-paced, which is not adjacent to retaining China's traditional costumes.
Now buy clothes to wear, not make clothes to wear. I hate zipper clothes. It is difficult to buy button clothes with satisfactory styles, mostly flat lapels. Buy a sewing machine and do whatever you want.
Fang Qingping, a serious comedian, is particularly proud of his Chinese tunic suit.
I remember that when Premier Zhou was alive, he always wore a Chinese tunic suit, which made him look particularly stable and solemn. I don't know why no one wears it now. The suit replaced the Chinese tunic suit. I think the Zhongshan suit looks good and gives people a serious feeling.
First of all, to correct it, Zhongshan suit has never been popular among the people, let alone now. The biggest drawback of this dress is the collar, which is easy to fall off, unsightly and uncomfortable. In order not to let it fall, we have to have a wind buckle to pull, and it is uncomfortable to pull our necks. Secondly, four big pockets are easy to bulge, and if you don't pack anything, it will bulge and look untidy. The third tunic suit doesn't have a warped waist and looks a bit bloated. Therefore, the tunic suit has never been popular among the people, but only in the officialdom. What has been popular among the people is military casual clothes, which are at least flatter than those big pockets in the Zhongshan suit.
Have you found a phenomenon? Nowadays, people seldom wear suits and leather shoes, except for the Chinese tunic suit.
In order to prove our point of view is correct, last weekend, I also went to the pedestrian street in the city and sat in a street chair for two hours. I bet that 98% people are wearing sports shoes, casual shoes and casual clothes, and those who wear suits and leather shoes have become "one in a hundred", which are usually worn in interviews, negotiations or other more formal occasions.
Including five years ago, I specially spent 2000 yuan to buy a Chinese stand collar, which has been dusty in the closet for a long time.
Why are things like Chinese tunic suits, suits and leather shoes eliminated by the times? Personally, there are two main reasons:
The first one is too dull. The formal design of the Zhongshan suit is incompatible with people's pursuit of individuality, and the way of wearing "pants need to be cut a few holes" is out of place, losing the soil for survival.
Second, it is uncomfortable to wear. Chinese tunic suits are also very particular about materials, and Chinese tunic suits made of cotton are rarely seen. The clothes made in this way are uncomfortable to wear, and sometimes they will grind the body; In addition, the tunic suit is tight and suitable for people with good figure. Now people haven't had time to have a beer belly, so it's really not suitable for wearing a Chinese tunic suit.
Now it is a market economy, no matter what it is, it must adapt to the market, adapt to the trend, and change with the times. If we blindly adhere to the past rules and regulations, we will only be eliminated.
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