Women's jewelry, clothing during the Kangxi period of the Qing Dynasty are what

Qing Dynasty women's clothing, Han, Manchu development situation is different. Han women in the Kangxi, Yongzheng period also retained the Ming Dynasty style, fashionable small-sleeved clothes and long skirts; after the Qianlong, the clothes are gradually fat and short, wide cuffs, and then add the cloud shoulder, the pattern of renovation can not be stopped; to the late Qing Dynasty, urban women have gone to the skirt with pants, clothes set lace, rolling teeth, a coat of expensive mostly spent on this. Manchu women wearing "flag dress", comb flag bun (commonly known as two head), wearing "flower pot bottom" flag shoes. As for the later generations of the so-called cheongsam, long-term mainly for the court and the royal family. In the late Qing Dynasty, the cheongsam was also copied by Han Chinese noblewomen.

The cheongsam, or short dress, had several different forms, including the pipa placket, the large placket and the lapel. The matching skirt or pants are decorated with all-over prints, embroideries and tucks. Lapel, collar and sleeve edges are inlaid, rolled, embroidered and so on for the ornaments, history records "...... inlaid roll of the fee is even more, there is the so-called white flag edge, gold and white ghosts railing, peony belt, pan gold embroidery and other colors, a shirt and a skirt ...... inlaid roll of the Fo doubled the body of the clothes in six out of ten, inlaid bars In ten of four, the clothes only six points of damask, new and bizarre, after the discoloration is very difficult to dismantle and change. And there will be sheepskin as a jacket to wear in reverse, the skin is also added inlaid rolls, there are rows of beard cloud shoulder, winter and summer clothes, can be processed ......". The Manchu women and men in the early Qing Dynasty. Manchu women in the early Qing Dynasty and men's dress is similar, the difference is only wear ear combing buns, unmarried women hanging plaits. Manchu women do not wrap the feet without skirts, clothes outside the shoulders and shirts flush, long shirts within a small clothes, equivalent to the Han women's bibs, clothes outside the clothes also known as "wulong". Cheongsam in the Qing Dynasty, in addition to the above *** with the same characteristics, the combination of different periods of time is still relatively distinctive features.

Kangxi years: the popularity of a noblewoman wearing a black collar gold group of flower pattern or piece of gold pattern of brown robes, plus light green with black edges and gold embroidery pattern of the coat. There were ornaments on the front of the lapel, a large bun on the head, and a turban. The maid is wearing a black collar green robe, gold buttons, head decorated with cui flowers, and bead dangling shoulders.

Qianlong period: women with pink trimmed light yellow shirts, outside the black big cloud head undershirt. The skirt or the leg of the pants was inlaid with black embroidery, and the feet were covered with red bow shoes. There was also a vermilion shirt with white satin broad rails on the sleeves and red embroidered shoes. There are also collarless blue clothes with black trim, with a string of incense cards hanging on the front of the lapel, and small objects such as hour meters, toothpicks, and incense strings hanging on the buttons. There are also in the clothes outside the knot orange band, hanging on both sides of the waist and crotch and shirt Qi, the end of the band with embroidery. There are also white sweats, black pants, red belt, red bibs, shoes with a tongue on the heel.

Jiaqing, Daoguang years: women more low-necked blue purple dress, skirt mirror and bottom edge are set with black embroidered rails, cuffs set in white with full-color embroidered peonies broad side. There are also cuffs and skirts with broad rails, skirts hanging down to the knees, and shoulders with rolled cloud shoulders. Some of them were dressed in green and light red skirt with a few flowers embroidered on the mirror surface of the skirt and tassels hanging on the shoulders.

Tongzhi years: the popular blue satin with broad-bordered silk pants belt, with a width of one or several zhang, with the end of the embroidered pattern. Whether the skirt and pants have the custom of tying the belt. Belt after the tie down to the knees for the Shang.

Mid-Guangxu: women's dresses and skirts gradually shorter, wider and wider sleeves, the belt length of about one foot above the knee, walking with the wind when swinging, there are tassels sewn on the end of the belt, when swinging to show a different effect. The color of the dress is lake blue and peach red, and there are also jewel blue and red colors.

The end of Guangxu: women's clothes were knee-length, decorated with large inlaid rolls, and sometimes with sixteen to twenty ribbons on the skirts, with silver bells tied to the end of each band, which were rattled when they were walking, and were very interesting. In front of the lapel hanging with gold or silver decorations, such as ear digger, tooth pick, small hair tweezers. Some also hang a class of Meidan containing a small spice sachet. There are also tied inside the silk or woof made of perfumed powder made of small mirror bag. At the same time, Shanghai popularized a new dress, this new dress not only in the sleeve, but also in the elbow decorated with inlaid roll, clothes narrower and longer than before, the pants are also correspondingly narrow some. And with three to four pairs of bracelets. Such a new dress, indeed, the image of the women dressed up more elegant and skillful. This new form of slight changes in the original basis, at that time is the fashionable new wave of clothing.

The popularity of the late Qing Dynasty, the sleeves inside the false cuffs, when one or two, more often two or three. This kind of attire, one in order to show the identity and wealth; the second is to strengthen the closed form of the flag dress style characteristics. False cuffs are not only made of exquisite materials, decorative layout is also pursued with the same cheongsam, thus the overall dress more gorgeous effect, but also strengthened the decorative sense of hierarchy. The fake cuffs are connected layer by layer to show the slenderness of the narrow sleeves.

Xuantong to the early years of the Republic of China: the women's shirts and pants in this period were narrower than those in the late Guangxu period, but the collars were so high that they could even cover the cheeks, like the shape of a saddle. The decorations of this period were much simpler than before, but they were still tied in front of the lapel.

Women's clothing in the Qing Dynasty, there are public service, dress and regular clothes. The public service is from the queen to the seventh grade women's service system; dress in the folk refers to the auspicious dress or funeral dress. Wedding, funeral and birthday clothes, the court is according to the rank of the wife of the provisions of the regular form of clothing, change to take is also much more free.

Women's clothing

From the records of the "Qing Canon" and "Qing Tongli", women's daily clothes have strict regulations, and subject to legal restrictions. Of course, because it is not bound by the rank, so compared to the more varied types of clothing. Taking is also much more casual. It was only restricted to the servants, you-ling and soap clerk that they were not allowed to use silk, silk, yarn, damask, satin, communicator and Luo and other high grade materials to make clothes, and they were not allowed to use fine leather, fine wool and stone-colored materials to make clothes, and they were not allowed to use beads, emeralds, gold, silver, precious stones and other valuable decorations casually, and they were only allowed to use the lower grade materials with coarser texture such as kudzu cloth, pike cloth, woolen brown, cocoon communicator, raccoon and sheepskin, etc. At that time, if there was a "time and place", the women's daily clothes were strictly regulated and restricted by the law. At that time, if there was "fashionable dress", it was firstly taken among the nobles, and in the period of imperial rule, people's dress and make-up were not easily changed, and as for "strange dress", it was even more forbidden to exist.

Ming Dynasty more use of buttons, mainly used in dresses, regular clothes are rarely used, the end of the Ming Dynasty has been popularized. After the Manchus entered the customs began to use buttons, become a necessary thing to make clothes. Folk with buttons is affected by the eight banners soldiers of the armor, but also by the influence of foreign goods imported, so gradually in the clothes of the collar and lapel side of the general use. Before the Ming Dynasty, most of the collars were cross collars, pairs of collars and round collars, and since the Qing Dynasty, after the use of buttons in flag clothes, the shape of the collars began to change significantly. Appeared before the Qing Dynasty has never had a standing collar, lapel edge is not exposed, the inner shirt is also different from the previous, large set of large roll of the craft of the edge is unusual, and thus the cutting and sewing technology also has a higher demand.

Ancient clothing is very revered "official-like" and "family-like", generally new samples are the first to come from these samples. After the Qianlong period, due to the ports of communication began to have the exchange of goods, so that new materials and new patterns slowly appeared, the two Guangzhou and Suzhou-Hangzhou area has become the birthplace of the "new fashion"; after the Daoguang pattern more and more new, but the new fashionable clothing styles, but only in the popularity of the aristocrats among the common people can not be imitated at will.

Since the Qianlong, Jiaqing, many flag women follow the Han Chinese dress, in the original long narrow shirt outside the coat with wide sleeves, or widen the sleeves of the shirt and robe, and learn to wrap the feet and other bad habits, caused by the Renzong and Xuanzong anger, successive oracles prohibit, and affirmed that Manchuria's eight banners, Mongolia, the Han Chinese army Governor, Vice Governor at any time detailed investigation. Violators of the crime, and severely punished by no means lenient.

Women's dress

Subdivision of auspicious clothing and funeral clothing two categories. The court has the following provisions: the empress dowager, empress, imperial consort and consort of the auspicious dress crown with smoked sable and embellished with Zhu Wei (a pattern); dragon coat color is stone green with embroidered text; the dragon robe color with bright yellow, Prince Fujin, Prince Fujin's auspicious dress crown with smoked sable, the top of the ruby. Prince Fujin's coat color with stone green with embroidered text; Prince Fujin python robe with incense color, embroidered nine python five claws; civil and military officials from first to ninth grade of the wife of the complementary clothing with the husband's grade, complementary system for the square, the end of the Qing dynasty official's wife has a round complementary bottom. Cranes were embroidered for civil officials of the first rank; brocade chickens for the second rank; peacocks for the third rank; geese for the fourth rank; white pheasants for the fifth rank; herons for the sixth rank; chickens for the seventh rank; quails for the eighth rank; and quails for the eighth rank. ; the eighth grade embroiders quails; the ninth grade and those not yet in the ranks embroiders practicing magpies. Military officials embroidered unicorns for the first grade; lions for the second grade; leopards for the third grade; tigers for the fourth grade; bears for the fifth grade; piu for the sixth and seventh grades; rhinoceroses for the eighth grade; and seahorses for the ninth grade. Ladies without rank use azure coats. No need to patch, red skirt, sleeves and mouth edge embroidery can be arbitrary. And concubines can only use pink and light blue. Qing Dynasty women's phoenix crown (also known as "bead crown", because the crown to bead as the main decoration), cape, python jacket has no provisions. In short, the Qing Dynasty women of various grades are embroidered python for decoration. This is a little different from the Ming Dynasty, the Ming Dynasty, the wife of the big shirt is not embroidered python, but only embroidered pheasants (Qu), peacocks, mandarin ducks and magpies.

Women's funeral dress

Since ancient times, funeral dress has also been classified as a dress or the like. Funeral clothes can be divided into two parts: one is the "birthday clothes" made for the elders by the younger generation; the other is the clothes people wear during the funeral ceremony. Officials wear the "shouyi" according to their rank, while common women use the Yuanqing or blue coat.

Those attending the funeral should wear raw linen, cooked linen, coarse white cloth, fine white cloth, linen crown, linen track, grass track, plain track and other funeral clothes according to the month. During the mourning period, women may not wear colored flowers, may not apply powder, and may not wear silk clothes, may not use bright colors, only allowed to use white, gray, black, blue colors. These are the general provisions of the funeral rites, according to regional habits are also different. The south is more observant of ancient rites, such as women with coarse clothing edge not sewed, waist tie hemp skirt, head with a hemp cloth sewing one side, in the shape of a hood, wearing a hat after the two ends of the cloth on one side of the side of the long side of the slightly shorter; the north of the white cloth knot wrapped around the head, in the coarse clothing not embellished with a border line below the white cloth wrapped shoes, leaving the heel, the father left the black heel, the grandparents left the red heel.

Women's public service

It is the official official dress of the court from the dowager empress, down to the imperial consort. The specific provisions of the court dress and uniforms supporting a variety of jewelry in the "Qing dynasty canon" in the volume and "Qing Tongli" volume are recorded, the following briefly introduce one or two.

The Empress Dowager and Empress of the winter crown for smoked sable. Embellished with Zhu Wei, top three layers. Decorated with pearls, gold phoenix, precious stones, Shanshan and other ornaments, after the crown has a protective collar, hanging bright yellow band; summer crown for the green velvet.

The Empress Dowager and Empress of the gold about (made of gold ornaments), decorated with lapis lazuli, turquoise, pearls, Shanshan, etc. for the draped coat things. Empress Dowager and Empress of the ear ornaments around three, by the gold dragon with a first-class beads: Royal Consort and Consort's ear ornaments, the Palace Nobleman ear tie with three holes, with three pairs of earrings. Empress Dowager, Empress, Royal Consort of the court dress, with stone green color piece of gold edge, with the standing dragon, the dragon and Wanfuwanshou for the embroidery pattern. Collar hanging behind the bright yellow tapestry, decorated with jewelry; there are also positive dragons, rows of dragons or standing dragons and eight treasures for the pattern embroidered text Ping Shui.

The Empress Dowager and the Empress, the Imperial Consort of the winter robe with bright yellow, cloak collar and sleeves with stone green, shoulder up and down are added edge, and there are gold dragons, rows of dragons, dragons, as well as the eight treasures of the water and other embroidered patterns.

The dowager empress and the empress of the collar, cast in gold, with pearls, turquoise, Shanshan for decoration. Empress Dowager and Empress in court dress with three plates of beads on the chest. Hanging a plate with auspicious clothes, beads, are pearl and Shanshan and other high-grade ornaments; Royal Consort, Consort and Consort's beads, is decorated with Mipo. This court beads *** count 108, divided into four parts, with three large bead interval, each part of twenty-seven.

The empress dowager, the empress and the imperial consort are equipped with green pick, taping with bright yellow, embroidered text for the five grains of plenty.

The empress dowager, empress, imperial concubine, noble consort, consort and concubines of the winter skirt, with a piece of gold with sea dragon edge, red woven gold Shouzhi satin and stone green rows of dragon Zhuang satin; summer skirt with satin gauze, the same pattern as the winter skirt.

Attached

Qing dynasty empress phoenix robe

Empress of the regular clothing style, and Manchu noblewomen dress is basically similar to the round neck, lapel, collar, sleeves and lapel edges, are decorated with a wide lace, only the pattern is different. The pattern of the costume shown in this picture is phoenix wearing peony. The whole garment is embroidered with eight colorful phoenixes on a bright blue satin ground, with several peonies interspersed between the phoenixes. The colors of the peonies are handled in a pure and elegant manner, with wonderful color variations, characteristic of traditional landscape painting. In contrast, the colors of the phoenixes are heavy and the contrast between red and green is extremely strong, which is typical of the national style and the characteristics of the times.

Qing Dynasty court dress cloak

Cloak for the Qing Dynasty women's clothing, cloak and shirt style is similar. The shirt is a long garment with round neck, right overlapping, twisted lapel, straight body, flat sleeves and no open air. The cloak is open to the armpits around the slit, the top of the slit must be decorated with clouds, and cloak pattern is more ornate, the edge of the set of rolling more elaborate. Pattern varieties, and have their own meanings. About the Xianfeng, Tongzhi period, the capital aristocratic women decorated with lace rolling the number of ways more and more, there are "eighteen set" said. This decorative fashion, until the Republic of China continues to be popular.

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Early Qing Dynasty, Huang Taiji to the Kangxi years, Manchu women's hair is knotted into a whip on the top of the head coiled up. Two handle head is also just emerging at this time more at the time of celebration before combing, more with real hair, and not high. Noble women of higher status would wear a tin. Similar to the net cap things, in the tin above wearing jewelry. Only in the middle began to rise higher two handle head. In movies and TV dramas that kind of flag head was only invented during the Cixi period. Consort usually attire and ordinary people are almost the same, in major festivals and ceremonies in the regimental dragon dress, head wearing a dynasty cap, with dynasty beads. The difference in status is mainly the color of the dress, the number of beads material, the hat above the decorative jewelry to make a difference.

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