What are the characteristics of Tang Dynasty costumes?

Women's clothing in Tang Dynasty was noticed by people because of its distinctive characteristics, so the uniqueness of men's clothing was often ignored. So what are the characteristics of costumes in the Tang Dynasty? The following are the characteristics of Tang Dynasty costumes that I arranged for you. I hope it works for you!

The main characteristics of men's wear in Tang Dynasty

One is a hoe and the other is a round neck and narrow sleeve robe.

In the Tang Dynasty, it was the first dress based on the towel of the Han and Wei Dynasties. After the Tang dynasty, people added a fixed ornament to the hoe and named it? Towels? . The shape of towels varies from time to time. Besides towels, many changes have taken place in the feet of steamed bread. By the end of the Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, the original soft foot had become a hard foot with one left and one right.

The official's main clothing in Tang Dynasty was a round neck and narrow sleeve robe. In addition, the application of horizontal bow under the robe was also a major feature of men's wear at that time. Judging from many pictures handed down from ancient times, this kind of T-shirt is popular in informal occasions. How to dress smartly? The ill-fitting version below the neck and chest makes the front layer of the robe naturally loose and droop, forming lapels. This is also close to Khufu's lapel, which really achieves a similar effect to Khufu's. In today's words, it is probably called looking foreign.

Lapel is not a tradition of Hanfu. The Tang Dynasty was an era of multi-cultures. At that time, women not only led the international fashion trend themselves, but also were good at drawing inspiration from the national costumes of the third world. The once popular lapel and double-breasted cuff half-arm is said to have probably originated from Qiuci, the hometown of western music. However, the round neck robe is not a common dress for people in the field, nor is it a dress for major sacrifices and major political activities.

Tangbanbi

Half-arm, also known as half-sleeve, is a double-breasted jacket developed from Wei and Jin Dynasties. It is characterized by elbow-length sleeves and is usually worn outside a shirt.

During the Sui and Tang Dynasties in China, the half-arms were double-breasted, pullover, lapel or collarless, and the double-breasted half-arms were tied with a small belt as the chest. Popular in the court of Sui Dynasty, it was first recorded by court officials and women. Half-arms were more popular in the early Tang Dynasty. Not only can men and women wear it, but it has also entered the ranks of court uniforms and spread to the people.

The rise of the half arm is quite interesting. It originated very early. In the Three Kingdoms, Wei Mingdi wore a thin silk half-sleeve coat to appear before the minister, but was questioned by the minister. What is the reason for this strange dress? It can be seen that the style of short sleeves belongs to the non-mainstream fashion when it first appeared. But with the progress of the times, it became popular in the flourishing age of Sui and Tang Dynasties. The Tang Dynasty was an ancient youth in China and an era of dissolute imagination. At this time, the half-arm soared into the sky and became a common practice.

Of course, not all have been forgiven. For example, Tang Taizong's prime minister Fang considered it a half arm? Frivolous lawsuit? , specially written in French without wearing a half arm. Maybe there are fashionable men and women in his family who have been spanked for this. However, this is only part of the phenomenon. Another famous minister, Ma Zhou, went to the toilet and asked that no matter how ordinary people were, they could wear half an arm in addition to their light clothes, thinking that such a dress was appropriate. Being able to put forward different opinions on a dress shows that the court and men were still very confident at that time and didn't think it was so-called. Serve the devil? Will it lead to national subjugation? That's an excuse that their ancestors and descendants love to find.

Basic characteristics of women's clothing in Tang Dynasty

The costume image of the Tang Dynasty for more than 200 years can be mainly divided into three kinds of matching costumes: shirts and skirts, round neck robes and Hu clothes. According to the Tang system, women's clothing can be divided into four types, namely, royal clothing, public clothing, sacrificial clothing and regular clothing. The first three are the size dresses worn by empresses in court meetings, sacrificial ceremonies and other formal occasions, while the latter is daily clothes. Women's uniforms in Tang Dynasty consist of upper body, coat, lower body and skirt, with silk on the shoulders. The shirt is a single coat with wadding inside, which is only waist-short, and the skirt is long and numerous; There are also coats, half arms, shirts and so on. Wear it with shirts, skirts and skirts.

The basic dress of women's wear in Tang Dynasty is a three-piece suit: skirt, blouse and blouse. Fu dress in Tang Dynasty refers to the traditional Chinese dress in which women in Tang Dynasty wear short clothes or shirts, long skirts, silk and half-arms (short sleeves). Under the influence of foreign costumes, Tang Nv's dress retained its original shape, so it became the most exciting and moving accessory costume in the Tang Dynasty and even in the whole history of China. Land, usually only grows to the waist, very short, which is the characteristic of women's wear in Tang Dynasty. Shirts like this one grow to the hips or longer. Tang Nv's coats, shirts, etc. are the uniforms of all classes. Yuan Zhen's poems? Lotus root silk blouse lotus root silk skirt? , Zhang You's poem? Where is the Yuanyang embroidered belt thrown? Who will pay for the peacock sweater? , Ouyang Jiong's poem? Tea girls attract each other? . Judging from these poems, it is very common for women in the Tang Dynasty to wear clothes and shirts, and they like red, light red or light ochre, light green and other colors, plus? Luoshan leaves are embroidered again, and there is a cluster of golden phoenix and silver geese. Decorated with gold and silver embroidery, the appearance is more beautiful. The neckline of a swallow often changes. The neckline types of a swallow shirt include round neck, square collar, straight collar, chicken heart collar and so on.

The characteristic of women's dress in Tang Dynasty is the unity of skirt, blouse and blouse. Among women, there is an image of topless and bare arms. On the mural on the east wall of Princess Yongtai's tomb, there is an image of a woman in the Tang Dynasty, with a high bun, topless breasts, a HongLing on her shoulders, a yellow narrow-sleeved blouse, a long green dress and a red belt hanging from her waist. Powder chest half mask suspected dark snow? ,? When sitting, the clothes are entangled in the grass, and the thread is the skirt sweeping the plum? Have a more vivid understanding. Dressing slowly and revealing a little is not everyone's job. In the Tang Dynasty, only people with status could wear open-chested shirts, Princess Yongtai could be semi-naked, and singers could be semi-naked to please the ruling class, while women in ordinary families were not allowed to be semi-naked. At that time, the semi-topless dress of the Tang Dynasty was somewhat similar to the evening dress of the modern west except that the shoulders and back were not allowed to be exposed.

In the prosperous Tang Dynasty, there was a kind of naked collar, that is, the neckline was very low, which was popular only among court concubines and kabuki actors in the early days, and later even rich girls were favored. Judging from the stone carvings at the tomb entrance in the Tang Dynasty and a large number of ceramic female figurines, bare collars became popular and probably spread all over Lebanon, so there were quite a few bare-collar female images in the artistic images at that time. Skirts, women in the Tang Dynasty all wore skirts. This was a form of petticoat that women attached great importance to at that time. Skirt fabrics are mostly silk fabrics, but there are many differences in materials, usually one more piece is better. The waist of the skirt can be raised, and part of it can cover the chest. The lower body only wears a tube top and a gauze shirt, so that the skin of the upper body is faintly exposed. For example, Zhou Fang's "The Picture of a Beautiful Lady" and Zhou Juan? Used to wear a shirt with a half-exposed chest? Poetry and painting depict this kind of dress, which is the boldest among the ancient women's dresses in China, enough to imagine the openness at that time. The material, color and style of skirts in the Tang Dynasty are much higher than the previous generation, which can be described as gorgeous and colorful. For example, a lot of skirts involved in Tang poetry are: Did Shang Xian wear a Cuixia skirt at first? ,? Is the ruffled skirt cut in the same color? 、? Two people lift a hidden flower skirt? 、? Bamboo skirt? 、? Blue veil? 、? Crescent dress? Wait a minute.

This kind of coat and skirt? Tang suit? , is the inheritance, development and perfection of the previous generation of clothing. From the overall effect, the coat is short, the skirt is long, and it looks slim and slender.

Do women in the Tang Dynasty still wear Tang clothes? Khufu . ? Khufu This is the clothes of western people. The form of the belt is also deeply influenced by Khufu. Before this, people's waist ornaments were made of gold, silver, copper and iron. It's popular at this time. Belt? There are gold ornaments and a short and small belt to tie things. This kind of belt was the most popular in the Tang Dynasty and lasted until the Northern Song Dynasty. After the prosperous Tang Dynasty, the influence of Khufu gradually weakened, and the styles of women's clothes became wider and wider. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, this feature was more obvious. Generally speaking, women's sleeves are often more than four feet wide. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, aristocratic dresses were usually worn on important occasions. Wearing this kind of clothes, there are golden flowers in your hair, so it is also called? ? .

Do women in the Tang Dynasty love topless breasts?

Usually speaking of the Tang dynasty, people's impression of it is openness, and when talking about women in the Tang dynasty, they will think of exposure. However, a Tang dynasty that lasted for 300 years only used one? Open? Can you sum it up?

Let's go into history and explore the social truth of the Tang Dynasty. 1955 This female figurine unearthed in the tomb of Gaolou Village, Xi City, Shaanxi Province in the heyday of the Tang Dynasty is a representative of women in the Tang Dynasty, with a plump figure and bare breasts. The picture of Han Xizai's night banquet (partially) depicts the scene of the Southern Tang Dynasty after the Tang Dynasty. In the picture, the female performer who plays flute and flute ensemble has become thinner and her clothes tend to be conservative. Li Shou, the younger brother of Tang Gaozu Li Yuan, died in the fourth year of Zhenguan (630), belonging to the early Tang Dynasty. The image of female music in its tomb is beautiful and light, which is very similar to the style of Han Dynasty and very different from the charm of Datang in our impression. History is like batik dipped in a dye vat. It looks like a color. When the paper is opened, it is actually a deep and shallow blue. But we always have an indelible single impression of history: the Tang Dynasty was open, the Song Dynasty was weak, and the Ming Dynasty was depressed. These intuitive impressions come from the sense of distance between modernity and history. Is it really that simple? We might as well think about our own times. If we use two words to define our own times, perhaps many classified impressions will come to mind: this year is different from last year, the upper class is different from the working class, Shanghai is different from Urumqi, and Paris fashion is different from Beijing. We can't cover these shades in just two words, so an era that once existed and lasted for 300 years is of course equally complicated.

In many costume dramas, Wu Zetian is heroic and spirited, revealing desire and aggression from head to toe; Yang Yuhuan is beautiful. Is it ancient China? Four beauties? A symbol of fullness and beauty. When I came out, my clothes were half covered and half exposed, which was more exposed than today's women. Can such an image represent women in the Tang Dynasty? Looking at the archaeological unearthed images, it seems that there is such an impression: a female official in Taizi Stone? The snow lamp on the chest shines sideways? The three-color female figurines of the Tang Dynasty displayed in the museum have different styles, as do the famous paintings handed down from generation to generation, such as the woman in The Beauty Picture? Can a thin shirt penetrate the skin? . The women in these materials, dressed in colorful and exposed clothes, pieced together the brilliance of Datang's meteorological opening. They are not fictions of works of art, but real historical freeze frames. However, more rigorous people will always continue to ask, can these frozen female images really represent the Tang Dynasty that lasted nearly 300 years? Can it really reflect the appearance of all beings walking in Gaochang Canal or Chang 'an Avenue at that time? Or is it just a wishful stereotype? In addition to archaeological discoveries, Tang poetry was transformed into a romantic and gorgeous theater, which gave us a little makeup for the feminization of the Tang Dynasty. The makeup is beautiful, and the thin skirt is completely gone? 、? Light is snow, thin is condensation. .

However, why are there only stories of beautiful women and talented people in these materials? Was there no rice, oil, salt, sauce, vinegar tea in the Tang Dynasty? In the general theory, the weakness of the Song Dynasty highlighted the opening and prosperity of the Tang Dynasty, and the delicate ladies of the Song Dynasty exaggerated the impression of the bohemian women of the Tang Dynasty. In the rough contrast between the two eras, the truth runs counter to each other and the misunderstanding is getting bigger and bigger. This painting was written by Wang Kewei, a painter in the prosperous Tang Dynasty. In the painting, several beautiful women in the Tang Dynasty are happily playing polo on the grass. You see their pink shoulders are exposed and their breasts are half exposed. This is not only the artist's artistic exaggeration, but also represents the public's impression of the Tang Dynasty. Peerless exposure is only an individual phenomenon. Generally speaking, an elegant and open-minded woman image appeared in the prosperous Tang Dynasty, and Bai Juyi's "Spring Dreams and Hundred Rhymes" recorded people's preferences for women's clothing at that time. Dressing is romantic and thin, and the times are wide. ? In the prosperous Tang Dynasty, the three-piece suit of the early Tang Dynasty was still preserved, but the high-waisted striped skirt was out of fashion, and the single-color woven flower skirt came from behind, and the style hobby of the Tang people changed from high-waisted sleeves to taking off the coat. As for revealing the chest, a large number of murals and pottery figurines show that this trend is purely personal.

The statues of ladies buried in Prince Yide's tomb in the second year of Shenlong (706) and Xue Xian's tomb in the ninth year of Kaiyuan (72 1) are plump and open-chested, which fully conforms to the so-called opening of women in the Tang Dynasty. Even in the 2 1 century, their bold and unrestrained style is not uncommon. However, careful observation of other pottery figurines and murals in the prosperous Tang Dynasty is not entirely the case. The princess of Jinxiang, who was buried in the 12th year of Kaiyuan (724), had different female figurines wrapped around her chest, or hung around or obliquely, just like today's different styles of silk scarves, with no intention of bare chest and arms. Li Xian, the eldest son of Tang Ruizong, who was buried in the first year of Tianbao (742), wore a wide-sleeved white shirt and a long red dress on the mural in the tomb, still in the early Tang style, but with a plump figure and wide sleeves; Ladies and gentlemen watching dance music are followed by a woman dressed in men's clothing, far from being sexy and unrestrained as seen in the tomb of a German prince. Princess Yongtai's tomb, which was buried in the second year of Shenlong (706), has a picture of ladies in the east and west walls of the front room, which is a wonderful work in the murals of Tang tombs: the first maid-in-waiting combs her hair in a high bun and puts her hands on her abdomen, and then the ladies hold plates, candlesticks, boxes, ruyi and parcels, etc., and look carefully at the women in the picture, not all of them are hiding in the refrigerator. These historical materials remind us not to ignore the personality differences between people. Fashion is popular at any time, but not everyone worships it as a standard. The reason is actually easy to understand. For example, even if miniskirts are popular this year, people with thick legs will not like to wear miniskirts. On the one hand, everyone pursues different things. On the other hand, figure and personality often limit the desire to pursue fashion. We have always thought that women's clothes represented the openness of the Tang Dynasty with their generosity and nudity, but some scholars have put forward a guess: perhaps we mistook home clothes for outdoor clothes. Let's restore the cultural relics to their original excavated positions. Up to now, the female images in the Tang Dynasty discovered by archaeology are one kind of pottery figurines and the other kind of murals, and the owners who have the ability to own these waiters are often noble emperors. Tombs of upper-class people in the Tang Dynasty are considered to imitate their houses before their death: from the long slope of the tomb, the murals on both sides of the tomb usually look like soldiers marching in the whole army. At the end of the tomb, pavilions symbolizing the palace are sometimes painted, and there are layers of tunnels behind the tomb, which take us into a deeper and more private space, as if from the porch hall to the inner room. Images on both sides of the aisle gradually appear as officials and maids serving the inner court. The murals around the tomb owner's coffin are usually waitresses holding various items and figurines of different sizes. These images and the location and environment of the unearthed pottery figurines mean that they are aristocratic maids who live in inner rooms or enjoy private gardens, rather than wandering in the streets in public places. Scholars' research provides another direction of thinking, that is, people in the Tang Dynasty also dressed for occasions, but this situation is not absolute. In some murals or works handed down from ancient times in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes, some women who go out without cover can still be seen. However, the exposure of women's clothing in the prosperous Tang Dynasty was not unlimited, as evidenced by examples in historical materials. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, in the fourth year (839), a grand lantern festival was held in Sendai Hall. Princess Yan 'an specially invited people to design beautiful clothes to enjoy the lanterns. But her designer is too bold, and her clothes are too exaggerated and naked. At that time, Emperor Wenzong was furious when he saw her, so he dismissed the princess and deducted her husband's money as punishment in February. Visible, in public, even the princess can't wear too exposed. The dress taste pursued by women in the Tang Dynasty was not a runaway horse, nor was the style of undressing bun pursued by the whole Tang Dynasty.