kimono

Classification: society/culture >> ethnic groups

Problem description:

I heard that Japan looks at its age through kimono. What exactly is it?

Analysis:

Types of kimonos

There are many kinds of kimonos, not only men and women, unmarried and married, but also casual clothes and formal clothes. Men's kimonos are few in style, monotonous in color, dark in color, thin in belt and convenient to wear. Women's kimonos have various styles, bright colors and wide waist. Different kimono belts have different knots and different hairstyles. Married women wear "cuff" kimono, while unmarried women wear "cuff vibration" kimono. In addition, according to the different purposes of going out, such as visiting, playing and shopping, the patterns, colors and styles of wearing kimonos are also different.

1. Sleeve kimono

A kind of clothing worn by women when attending relatives' weddings, formal ceremonies, ceremonies, etc., with a black background, it is dyed with five patterns, which are printed on both ends of the hem of the kimono's predecessor to show that married women use a kimono called "black sleeves". In addition, other colors of cloth are printed with three or one patterns and patterns on the hem, which is called "colorful sleeve" kimono.

Colored sleeves and black sleeves.

2. Vibrating sleeve kimono

According to the length of sleeves, the first dress of an unmarried lady can be divided into "large vibrating sleeves", "medium vibrating sleeves" and "small vibrating sleeves". Among them, the most worn is the "vibration sleeve". For example: bar mitzvah, graduation ceremony, banquets, parties, visiting friends and other occasions. Because this kimono gives people a sense of fashion, married women are wearing "vibrating sleeves" more and more.

Visit kimono

On the whole, the patterned obedient hem, left front sleeve and left shoulder to collar are a picture, which is very popular as the most popular simple gift dress in recent years. It can be worn at opening ceremony, friends' banquets, parties, tea parties and other occasions, and there is no age or marriage restriction.

4. Small pattern kimono

Generally, as a daily fashion, it is dyed with small patterns on the whole, which is very suitable for wearing, dating and shopping. If it is a young woman, it can also be used for semi-formal parties.

5. Men's kimono

Men's kimonos formally wear patterned coats and skirts. Except for black, other patterned coats and skirts are just simple gifts, which can be matched with clothes at will.

6. Plain kimono

This is a monochrome kimono (except black). If it is dyed with patterns, it can be worn as clothes. If there is no pattern, it can be used as a daily fashion dress.

7. Pay for kimono

The patterns on sleeves, front and back, and collar are all kimono prints, printed from bottom to top. Lighter and more comfortable than visiting kimonos.

Third, the types of kimono belts.

round mass of food

The original belt of women's kimono has patterns on the front, which is gorgeous but elegant.

belting

Eight inches wide (Japan 1 inch =3.03cm), with patterns on the front and plain color on the bottom, it is the most popular belt in Japan at present. One of the ribbons woven with brocade or gold thread can match the wedding dress, and the other ribbon dyed with light color pattern is used for fashion.

Nagoya belt

The two ends of Taigu are respectively connected with two thin belts, which are comfortable and convenient to tie up.

Baggner Goya belt

The bandwidth is eight inches (1 inch =3.03cm), which is lighter and more comfortable than the belt.

Half median

Its bandwidth is only about half that of ordinary tape, and it has no lining and no thin tape, so it can be tied according to your own preferences.

Fourth, kimono accessories

Accessories: In addition to the combination of rings, belts and knots, the accessories of kimono also play a great role in the beauty of kimono. The accessories of kimono mainly include strap, strap, strap, pillow, IDA, waist buckle, chest buckle, wing comparison and so on. In addition, there are underwear matching with kimono, some auxiliary appliances for wearing kimono and beauty, shoes and other accessories.

Belts and belts are very important accessories in kimono assembly. The function of the strap is not only to fix and cover the strap pillow when making a knot, but also to strictly match kimono and kimono strap in decoration. Textiles, twill fabrics, crepe fabrics, etc. Generally used as the material of ribbon, the top is decorated with tie-dye patterns, friendly Zen dyes, small patterns, embroidery patterns or colors. Ties play the role of tying and knotting, and can be divided into rope belts, woven belts and quilted belts. There is a cylindrical belt called pill belt, which is a special belt for dresses. There is also a kind of rope mixed with gold and silver thread, which is also often used for formal clothes and casual clothes. Generally speaking, the price of thick broadband is higher than that of narrow band, so narrow band is generally only used in bathrobes.

The belt plate is a plastic fitting placed in front of the belt to prevent the belt from wrinkling, and its width is narrower than that of the belt.

Pillows are used to make drums with mountains and shape changing knots. They are very large, but they are usually of a standard shape.

Yidudi is a kimono accessory, which is tied on the chest below the kimono collar to prevent deformation. Generally, Bodo fabrics with thin texture are selected for clothing.

The waist button and chest button are used to compare the length of kimono when dressing, or as fake buttons on the chest.

Wings are special decorations on sleeves, in order to make the two-layer sewing of kimono visible. Wings are designated for decoration at cuffs, collars, slits and openings from underarms to under sleeves. You can't use your wings in mourning.

The underwear of kimono mainly refers to the foot pocket, muscle loop, petticoat, long loop and half collar.

Foot bag, namely socks. Kimono socks are all white, with four toes set together and separated from the big toe. The material is selected from fine wide poplin.

Muscle ring, that is, close-fitting undershirt, plays the role of absorbing sweat in summer and keeping warm in winter. The fabric is made of spun yarn and nylon made of natural fibers, and the collar is made of similar cloth into a narrow V-neck.

The function of petticoat petticoat is mainly to prevent skirt pollution and keep warm. The fabric is made of spun silk, crepe fabric and nylon. Its length is about 5 cm shorter than that of the long coil.

Long loop, also called kimono gown, is a layer of clothes worn under a kimono. Its main function is to keep the kimono flat and beautiful, and also to prevent pollution.

Half collar, also called lining collar. The semi-collar seam is sewn on the long circle, and its main function is to prevent pollution. The fabrics are crepe, salt spun silk and so on.

Footwear and other clothing products include sandals, backpacks, handbags, belt buckles, hair accessories and so on.

Straw shoes do not refer to shoes made of grass, but refer to shoes with heels of about 2-8 cm, including cloth shoes, leather shoes and patent leather shoes. When choosing sandals, we should pay attention to the purpose of kimono. The sandals of the dress are made of cloth, and the heels should be higher. In recent years, more and more people choose patent leather shoes, which also reflects the fashion of straw sandals.

Under the bag, there are clogs, paintings under the bag, white wood under the bag, etc. When wearing a bathrobe, put on a bag barefoot. When it rains, you should cover the clogs with rain-proof and mud-proof clogs, which is called carrying in the rain.

Handbags are also one of the important accessories of kimono, and the choice of fabrics and colors also requires matching with kimono. Handbags for dresses are usually made of Saga brocade, Hakata brocade and brocade. As a handbag to carry when going out, patent leather and leather are generally used as fabrics.

The function of belt buckle and tie is the same, but the belt buckle is usually decorated with pearls, seven treasures and so on. To make a good impression.

Hair accessories, such as combs, hairpins and ribbons. Attention should be paid when choosing hair accessories, such as wearing gorgeous kimono similar to vibrating sleeves, and choosing hair accessories should be fancy; If you wear mourning clothes, you should avoid wearing hair accessories such as coral and jade.

The history of kimono

Kimono is a traditional national costume in Japan. Because more than 90% of Japan's population belongs to the "Yamato" nationality, it is named after this. It is also called "dressing" in Japanese. Besides keeping warm and protecting the body, kimono has high artistic value. In particular, women's kimonos are brightly colored, beautiful in style and equipped with beautiful wide belts at the waist, which is simply a work of art.

The origin of kimono can be traced back to the 3rd century. According to "Biography of Japanese in Wei Zhi", "Use a piece of cloth with a hole in the middle, and the head passes through it, so it is not necessary to cut it." This is the prototype of kimono. In the Daiwa era, the Japanese king sent envoys to China three times, bringing back a large number of Han weavers, Wu weavers and craftsmen who were good at textile and sewing techniques. Most of the immigrants from China who went to Fusang were literati and craftsmen, who introduced China's clothing style to Japan.

In Nara era (AD 7 18), the Japanese sent a delegation of envoys from the Tang Dynasty to China, which was received by the King of the Tang Dynasty and given a large number of royal robes. These clothes are dazzling and very popular in Japan. At that time, all Japanese civil and military officials were envious. The next year, the emperor ordered all Japanese to wear clothes that imitated the Sui and Tang Dynasties.

/kloc-In the Muromachi era in the 0/4th century, according to Japanese traditional habits and aesthetic tastes, costumes with Sui and Tang characteristics gradually evolved and finally finalized, and there was no big change in the following 600 years. As for wallets, Japanese women were influenced by Christian missionaries wearing robes and belts. At first, the wallet was in the front, and later it was moved to the back. 1868, before the Meiji Restoration, the Japanese all wore kimonos, but after the Meiji Restoration, men in the upper class began to wear suits, also known as "foreign clothes".

During the Great Kanto Earthquake in Japan 1923, women were still wearing kimonos, so they suffered misfortune or physical injury due to mobility difficulties. Since then, Japanese women have gradually changed to dresses or other clothes. However, kimono is still the Japanese favorite. People wearing traditional kimonos can be seen everywhere at festivals, graduation ceremonies, weddings, funerals or other important occasions to celebrate children's "July 53".

The two sleeves of the kimono are tied on the left shoulder, the waist is fixed with a pin, and the lower slit is a newly designed sleeveless kimono. A straight kimono with wrinkled cloth. Put the kimono on the gown and fix the waist with a pin. Move. Sleeves are light and elegant.

Six, kimono pattern

Kimono and its patterns can also be called patterns. Patterns include integrated circular patterns and non-circular patterns, which are arranged and combined to form patterns. Most prototypes of Japanese patterns come from flowers and birds in nature, romantic scenes or various props in life, including the following four categories:

Plant patterns: plum, cherry, rattan, chrysanthemum.

Animal patterns: dragon, phoenix, fish, bird and butterfly.

Pattern of utensils: fan, round fan, tea set.

Geometric patterns: hemp leaves, meshes and tortoise shells.

However, in the daily pattern classification, there are usually many types of patterns, such as:

Auspicious patterns: refers to the general name of various theme patterns with auspicious meanings produced by China's traditional thoughts. Such as pine, bamboo, plum and other plant patterns, crane, turtle, phoenix and other animal patterns, as well as various treasures and auspicious patterns are all representatives of classical patterns.

Official patterns: Classical patterns related to ceremonies or actions in the court in Heian period, usually based on foreign geometric patterns, plus patterns with obvious Japanese style as the theme, such as cranes, vertical surges, tortoise shells and so on. , the style is extremely high, and it is mostly used for ceremonial or slightly ceremonial dresses.

Horyuji pattern: The patterns of Chinese-made fabrics handed down from Asuka period in Horyuji, many of which have obvious Persian style.

Zhengcangyuan pattern: a pattern based on Zhengcangyuan fabric imported from Nara era.

Cracks in famous objects: fabric patterns introduced from the South China Sea around the Song Dynasty were especially liked by tea people and used as tea bags.

Tangcao pattern: Tangcao pattern composed of curly grass pattern is very popular in kimono fabric, which can be divided into grape Tangcao, chrysanthemum Tangcao, peony Tangcao and so on. Their designs have the Tang Dynasty style of China.

Sarasa pattern: Printed or hand-painted cotton cloth in Nanyang after Muromachi era, with obvious Indian style.

Wide forest pattern: a pattern named after Edo painter Ogata Kline, with flowers and birds and romantic scenery as the main theme, and the lines of the pattern are very smooth.

Pattern: a simple pattern composed of straight lines, only the thickness, color or halo of the straight lines create various changes.

Plaid pattern: The warp pattern and weft pattern are combined to form a plaid pattern, which is very common and is usually used in ordinary kimonos.

Parallel pattern: In fact, it is a kind of warp-tied yarn-dyed fabric. It first dyes warp or weft with tie-dyeing method, and then weaves. Woven fabric pattern boundaries will have uneven effects, called parallelism, which can be divided into geometric parallelism and drawing parallelism.

Non-ceremonial patterns: patterns used in mourning, including gauze, clouds, lotus flowers, running water, waves, etc.

The pattern of the belt is basically the same as that of the kimono.

In order to show luxury, pills and bags used in dresses usually use heavy patterns, usually the patterns of Fallonji or Zhengcangyuan, and auspicious patterns and professional patterns are also often used. But no matter what kind of belt you use, the seasonal sense of the pattern is very important.

Nagoya belt usually adopts relatively intimate and simple patterns, such as flowers with broken branches in four seasons, interesting objects, or small geometric patterns, which are very suitable for kimono.

Therefore, in the choice of patterns, we must pay attention to the matching of kimono and belt patterns, as well as the matching of pattern formats.