Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional festivals - Interpreting the social and cultural functions of women's clothing in Miao traditional society
Interpreting the social and cultural functions of women's clothing in Miao traditional society
1. Because there are no characters in Miao history, there are records of Wuxi Miao people's "good five-color clothes" in books such as the Book of the Later Han Dynasty and the Book of Jin. Du Fu, a great poet in the Tang Dynasty, once wrote the famous sentence "Five streams dress in heaven" and praised Miao costumes as beautiful as colorful clouds in the sky.
2. "There used to be three brothers and three sisters-in-law, who had to leave their hometown because of the oppression of officials. It is stipulated that everyone should make the same clothes and embroider the same flowers before fleeing, so that they can be recognized when they meet later. They stipulate that all women should sew flowered skirts and clothes. The flower seedlings are all black, and the small seedlings with pointed shawls are embroidered with horns at the tail of the skirt, and the horns on the branches should be single rather than double. The three brothers also discussed the shoulders of clothes with their daughters-in-law, because men's clothes are burdened, so they are often polished. Is it necessary to sew flowers in it? There are no flowers outside? Women carry less baggage? Are there any flowers on the shoulders of this dress? Otherwise, you can't tell men from women? After the discussion? All three brothers and sisters made this kind of clothes before they broke up? We are far apart. This rule has also been handed down from generation to generation. ? What can you see from this legend? Although the original origin of Miao costumes cannot be verified? But one thing is certain, that is? Are Miao costumes a sign that distinguishes them from other ethnic groups? It plays the role of symbol and symbol.
3. Even if they meet on the road, or there is a grand gathering of tens of thousands of people, they can tell where this woman lives and what dialect she speaks without opening her mouth or introducing the type of dress. For example, the differences in headdresses indicate that they come from different regions, usually Anshun and Zhenning, and generally southeast Guizhou. People who wear a spiral bun on their foreheads are generally from southwest Guizhou. People who wear gold, purple and flat hats usually come from Ping Huang? Is the blue pointed hat from Huishui Pingba? As far as skirts are concerned? When you see the miniskirt, you know that she comes from the area where Leishan and Danzhai meet? Another example is the color of clothes? Local characteristics are also obvious? For example, Qiandongnan likes to use purple and black? Zunyi likes to use purple? Guiyang likes to use cyan? Weining likes to use red and white, etc.
4. In some residential areas in Bijie area, there is a saying that "in ancient times, two brothers lived in the north of the Yellow River and were forced to move southwest because of years of war. My brother is riding in front and my brother is walking behind. My brother was attached to his hometown and reluctant to leave, so he recorded the pastoral scenery of his hometown on his clothes. The square pattern is a red cloth stripe in the square of the field, representing the pattern of fish, the winding road of snails and stars, representing trees, and the long red and yellow stripes symbolize the Yangtze River and the Yellow River. '
5. The research shows that Miao nationality originated from Jiuli in Huangdi period and Sanmiao in Yaoshun period. "Five Thousand Years ago" Jiuli is indeed a tribe living in the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River? After the war with the Huangdi tribe? Failed to retreat into the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River? Form the "Three Miao" tribe. Four thousand years ago? Is there a war between the northern tribes of China, led by Yao Shun and Yu, and the "Three Miao"? After the defeat of Sanmiao, they were forced to move south.
6. Legend has it that the evil god Leigong flooded the world and destroyed mankind. Jiang Yang escaped the disaster and surrendered to Lei Gong? Make people out of clay. But clay figurines can't talk? So I sent someone to ask Heaven. Did God say that bamboo is used for burning? When bamboo makes sound, people can talk. Chiang did it, and it happened. Old lady Shi Bing said that this design has the function of avoiding evil spirits? Even infertile women who have been married for many years will have children after wearing it.
7. The cultural inheritance function of Miao women's traditional costumes is not only reflected in the profound cultural connotation contained in the patterns, patterns and styles of costumes, but also can study the Miao history for future generations? Does Miao culture provide tangible material forms? It is also reflected in the production process of Miao women's clothing and the evolution of clothing patterns. How do Miao women dress for generations? In fact, it is the process that mothers tell their daughters about history, impart skills, cultivate aesthetic awareness and instill relevant folk customs in Miao society? It is a process in which a mother helps her daughter realize the transformation from a natural person to a social person. Clothing as a carrier? It records the splendid female culture created by Miao women? As a link? It maintains a relationship of learning, inheritance, communication and integration between mothers and daughters and between women and girls.
8. In the independent marriage with freedom of marriage and love, Miao young men often judge whether the woman is hardworking by whether the clothes are fine, whether the embroidery patterns are beautiful and whether the colors are harmonious. Have the ability? And as one of the important basis to decide whether to fall in love with her. Because clothes can't be bought? It's all sewn by girls. What if young people's judgments inevitably involve emotional factors? So the young man's mother judged whether the girl was hardworking and capable from her clothes, completely ruling out the special role of the young man's "beauty is in the eye of the lover"? But to look at that girl with rational and calm eyes? Because Miao women are good at embroidery? In this way, she can judge this girl objectively with the eyes of experts.
9. Miao people call this custom "sitting at home". According to Miao custom, all the clothes of a woman after marriage are brought by her family, and the man has no obligation to provide them for her. How many or even dozens of dresses and casual clothes does the bride prepare for herself? There are also straps, shoes, hats and so on. I need it after giving birth. Most of these clothes are quite exquisite? It often takes a long time to complete? On the outskirts of Taijiang? Make a dress full of embroidery? Better texture and pattern? Need a female working day? It takes a lot of time to do something less? Casual clothes, each flower shop? God? First-class clothing in Shidong area, each flower shop? God? A second-rate corner gardener? God? Casual clothes, each flower shop? Yao? Embroidery alone takes more than a few working days for each suit in Zhou Xi. And these clothes are time-consuming and time-consuming The bride is a girl, and she is often not fully prepared? Therefore, it is necessary for the bride to complete it during the confinement period, which has also become an important reason for the bride to confinement after marriage? . During each bride's "sitting at home"? Do you need to make at least one suit? How many sets of these clothes should be made? The general labor cost in the suburbs of Taijiang is one. "" — 。 God? Flower worker in Shidong area? One? Miao brides in the west of Tianzhou are not allowed to do anything while sitting at home. Do you need it outside the clothes? One by one? In summer of 2008, children's braces were made after transplanting rice and before autumn harvest.
10. The legend of short skirts by Miao people in Leigongshan shows that skirts can attract the opposite sex. Legend has it that in ancient times? A handsome young man went hunting in the mountains? Beat a bowl of chicken and give it to your beloved girl? In exchange for the love of young people? The girl dressed herself as beautiful as a pot chicken? Is it as high as a Buddha's chicken feather crown? Wide sleeves are like golden pheasant wings and a short skirt with a close discount? There is a long ribbon floating behind the waist? Like the tail of golden pheasant? And after that? All the Miao girls in this area wear this colorful embroidered dress. ?
1 1. In a certain historical period, the practical functions of Miao women's costumes, such as recording history, expressing emotions, educating future generations, attracting the opposite sex, avoiding evil spirits, exorcising ghosts, keeping peace and seeking happiness, have played an important role? What happened afterwards? Its original meaning is no longer valued. For example, silver ornaments used to be a symbol of avoiding evil spirits, driving away ghosts, keeping peace and keeping light? However, it gradually evolved into the embodiment of nobility and beauty, which was passed down from generation to generation as a form of cultural identity and beauty. So we can see? In the aesthetic consciousness of Miao nationality? As far as clothing is concerned? They think? Tradition is beauty. For example, the inheritance of clothing style? More is beauty. For example, the more layers clothes wear, the more beautiful they are. What is of practical value is beauty. Like a short skirt that attracts the opposite sex? What can express feelings is beauty. For example, the origin of the flower ribbon and the origin of the head handkerchief.
As far as women are concerned, they think ingenuity is beauty. For example, by looking at whose clothes are embroidered best, we can think that they are the most capable. Diligence is beauty. The more clothes you wear? Prove that the harder girls work? Such a girl can win the favor of the boy and his mother. What is true is beautiful. To show wealth? Girls don't hesitate to wear a lot of silver when they dress up? Some even weigh dozens of pounds. Good is beauty. For example, about the origin of the collar? Advocate honesty and kindness? Do not advocate greed and hypocrisy.
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