What are the ancient skirts? (Name)

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Folklore: A Brief History of Ancient Skirts in China

Skirt is a kind of clothing evolved from petticoat. The ancient words "skirt" and "group" are homologous, and there are many groups. At that time, the width of cloth and silk was narrow, and a skirt was usually made up of several pieces of cloth and silk, hence the name "skirt". Han Liuxi's interpretation of names and clothes: skirts, groups and connecting groups. That's what I'm saying. Judging from a large number of data, it is a custom for people to wear skirts under the clothes, which began after the Han Dynasty. Han Xin extended the poem "Lin Yulang", saying: "Long skirt with tie, wide sleeve acacia"; Anonymous "Ancient Poems for Jiao Zhongqing's Wife": "I embroider narrow skirts, and everything is four or five ways" are all examples of women wearing skirts in the Han Dynasty. This is also reflected in the image data. For example, many women in skirts are painted on the murals unearthed from the Han tomb in Dahuting, Mi County, Henan Province. A complete skirt was also found in Mawangdui Han Tomb in Changsha, Hunan. It is made of four pieces of plain silk, narrow at the top and wide at the bottom, and it is trapezoidal. The skirt waist is also made of plain silk, and the two ends of the skirt waist are stretched separately for tying. The whole skirt doesn't need any decoration and has no edges. It was called "no skirt" at that time.

"Biography of the Sages in Runan" notes that "Dai Liang married five women, but they all failed to dress properly", and "The Book of the Later Han Dynasty, Mingde Ma Huanghou" (later) often practiced clothes, and the skirt was not edged. "It is this kind of skirt.

After the Wei and Jin Dynasties, the styles and colors of skirts have been increasing, and the decorations on skirts have become more and more exquisite. In addition to ordinary long skirts, there are also names such as crimson yarn double skirt, single yarn double skirt, purple blue yarn double skirt and Dan yarn cup Tam skirt. During the Sixteen States of Jin Dynasty, a kind of skirt called "intermittent skirt" was popular among women, which was made of more than two colors of cloth strips. When making the whole skirt, it is very interesting to cut it into several shapes and use several colors alternately. The colors of the cloth with the start time color are red, green, red and yellow. Later, the whole skirt was cut more and more, and the fabric in the middle color became narrower and narrower, and the colors became richer and richer.

The woman on the mural of Dingjiazha's tomb in Jiuquan, Gansu, is wearing this style of skirt. Skirts in the Southern and Northern Dynasties are also very distinctive, and the most obvious feature is that the decorative patterns on the skirts have increased significantly. Lu Guimeng in the Tang Dynasty once wrote the article "Ji Jin Skirt", praising a brocade skirt he saw in the Northern and Southern Dynasties, and made a detailed and vivid description: "Li Jun is an ancient brocade skirt: four feet long, six inches wide at the bottom and three and a half inches at the top." There are parrots on the right, shrugging their shoulders and loosening their tails, and the number is equal to that of cranes. Second, birds vary in size, but there is no room for flowers to be evenly distributed. The road is four-way, colorful and tired. Wei Yun is intertwined, with lingering rainbows, smoke and fog, spring grass, distant mountains and broken walls. Moss, stone, autumn water, yin Dan leakage, core powder rubbing, hanging around, clouds hidden on the shore, thick and thin, foggy and dense, initially unclear. And you see: the cut surface is cut off, the painting is divided into places, and it is really feminine, shapeless, untidy, and not less than 300 years. "Such a delicate skirt has simply become a beautiful handicraft for appreciation.

The style of women's skirts in the Sui Dynasty basically inherited the style of the Southern and Northern Dynasties. Long skirts were especially popular with women in the Sui Dynasty, and middle-colored skirts were still adopted by women during this period. However, the number of intermediate color channels is increasing and getting narrower. The whole skirt is often divided into 12 lanes, which are called "Twelve Breaks" or "Breaks". In The Beginning of Things written by Liu Cun, a Tang Dynasty, it is recorded that "Emperor Yang made twelve long skirts, named' fairy skirts'". Compared with the previous generation, the length of women's skirts in Tang Dynasty increased obviously, and it was a common phenomenon that skirts mopped the floor at that time. In order to show the slender skirt, women often tie the waist of the skirt to the chest, sometimes even to the armpit, and the hem of the skirt covers the foot surface, sometimes dragging it underground. This situation is often mentioned in Tang poetry, for example, in Wang Jian's "Gong Ci", it is said that "little women have fine features and long skirts"; William Wang's poem "Looking at a man's child as a geisha" wrote: "Long skirts and ribbons are still reserved for guests"; Meng Haoran's poem "Chun Qing": "When sitting, clothes are wrapped in grass, while walking, skirts sweep plum blossoms" and so on. There are also many reflections in the image data, such as "The Picture of a Lady with a Pin Flower" and "The Picture of a Lady with a Fan", which all depict the image of a woman wearing a long mop. In order not to interfere with activities, when women wear this kind of long skirt to work, they lift it up and tie it around their waist. In this way, the skirt won't drag to the ground. The "Walking Map" drawn by the painter Yan in the Tang Dynasty and the pottery figurines unearthed from the Tang tomb in Wuchang, Hubei Province also reflect the female images in this costume.

In the Tang Dynasty, women's skirts were generally wide, and most of them were six, so there was a saying that "six skirts covered the ground" and "skirts dragged six Xiangjiang rivers". According to the cloth patterns recorded in the Book of the Old Tang Dynasty, the \ "Six Pieces \" in the Tang Dynasty is equivalent to more than 3 meters today, and the width of its skirt can be imagined. In addition to six paintings, women in the Tang Dynasty also used seven or eight paintings. For example, Cao Tang's Poems of Wandering Immortals said that "books break the eight clothes of Ming Xia". This kind of skirt not only affected the activities of the wearer, but also caused a great waste of materials and caused the interference of the court.

For example, "The Book of the New Tang Dynasty Che Fuzhi" notes: "Literati acceded to the throne, arrogating luxury to all directions, and decreed rules. A woman's skirt is only five and the floor is no more than three inches. " Women's skirts in the Tang Dynasty are also very gorgeous. Young women like bright red skirts best.

Young women in Tang Dynasty novels, such as Li Wa and Huo Xiaoyu, always wear this kind of skirt. There are also many references to this in Tang poetry, such as Yuan Zhen's poem "Cherry Blossom": "Flowers (earth+specialty) once set up flower pickers, and their skirts were as red as fire"; At the beginning of the year, the poem "Five Days of Watching Prostitutes" said: "The eyebrow platform wins the color of day lily, and the red skirt envies pomegranate flowers"; Du Fu's poem "Accompanied by nobles, Zhang Ba dogs and prostitutes to enjoy the cool night rain": "The wetter the red dress, the sadder the gorgeous lady Cui Dai" and so on. At that time, the pigment of the dyed red skirt was mainly extracted from pomegranate flowers, so people also called the red skirt "pomegranate skirt". Wu Zetian's poem "Ruyi Niang": "If you don't believe it, you will cry. Open the pomegranate skirt. " Later, "pomegranate skirt" was regarded as synonymous with women. Today, we can still hear the metaphor of "falling at someone's feet".

Madder is also the dye of red skirt, so red skirt is also called \ "money skirt \", such as the poem "Huangling Temple": "Spring grass in front of Huangling Temple, Huangling Qianqian skirt is new \"; Jong Li wrote in the poem "Singing by the Creek": "The sissy went to pick lotus on the 28th and ran to the blue boat with a smile in the light rain." In addition to red skirts, women in the Tang Dynasty also wore white skirts, called "Liu Hua skirts fly through turquoise skirts" and "jade skirts". Although the red skirt and the emerald skirt are bright, they are all monochrome. In addition, women's skirts in the Tang Dynasty often dyed a halo color, that is, two or more colors alternately dyed one color. There is no obvious boundary between the two colors. The transition is natural and presents a halo effect, so it is called "halo skirt". The murals in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes contain images of women wearing such skirts. The skirt ornaments in this period are also various, each with its own flavor: some people paint on the skirt, which is called "painting skirt"; Some skirts are inlaid with pearls, which are called "pearl skirts" and so on. The most exquisite dress is a hundred birds' hair dress created by Princess Anle, Tang Zhongzong's daughter.

According to the "New Tang Book Five Elements", "Princess Anle ordered the party to wear a hundred birds' hair skirt, with the same color on the face and the same color on the side; Japan and China are the same color, and the shadows are the same color. All birds can see them. "This kind of skirt woven with hundreds of bird feathers was particularly popular among women at that time, which led to the killing of rare birds in the mountains and was later banned because of the intervention of the court.

The color of women's skirts in Song Dynasty is mainly simple and elegant, and the skirt is still very wide. Usually there are more than six skirts, which are also 12 pieces of cloth. With the increase of skirt width, the wrinkles on the skirt increase obviously. The custom of folding skirts has a long history. According to legend, Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty and Empress Zhao swam together in Taiye Pool, and Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty made swallows dance. When the swallow was dancing, the wind suddenly blew. The emperor was worried that she would be blown away by the wind, so he called his attendants to grab her clothes. After the wind stopped, many wrinkles were left on Yan Fei's skirt. Other ladies-in-waiting felt very strange, so they folded them into pleats and named them "Lingxian Skirt". Of course, this is just a beautiful legend. In fact, the skirt is mainly for practicality, because it can increase the skirt width and increase the skirt circumference after folding, which is beneficial to the wearer's squatting and walking. Judging from a lot of data, dressing up is a custom after the Eastern Han Dynasty. Before this, there were no traces of broken skirts, and the women's skirts unearthed from Mawangdui Han Tomb were an obvious example. After the Eastern Han Dynasty, clothing has become a common custom.

There is a saying in the poem "Playing Beauty" written by Emperor Wen of the Southern Dynasties that "the skirt should be thin and simple". On this basis, it was carried forward in the Song Dynasty. The more skirts, the thinner the pleats, so it was described as \ "pleated \" and \ "thousand skirts \". Poems in the Song Dynasty often describe it, such as Lu's poem "Millennium", which says: "The gold bars on the wrists are thin, and the skirts are as thin as eyebrows. "colorful plumage's Six-character Poem of Matchmaker": "A hundred folds wrinkle the water, but six baht is light. "In the Song Dynasty, ordinary women liked to ride donkeys. The Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival depicts women riding donkeys. For the convenience of riding, women often wear "rotating skirts" with slits at the front and back. This kind of rotating skirt was originally used for prostitutes, and later it gradually spread and became a kind of clothing for ordinary women. As for the court concubines, they wore long skirts that covered the front and back, and began to sweep the floor with skirts, which was called "catching skirts". Because the front and back can be opened and closed, it is different from the ordinary skirt with a round circumference, so it is displayed as "serving the demon". The gold-plated skirts and pearl skirts popular in the Tang Dynasty still exist, but they are mostly used for maiko. There are a lot of descriptions in the poems of the Song Dynasty, such as Ouyang Xiu's "Drum and Flute Slow", which reads: "It's so cute to wear a light gauze and gold skirt with a big ruby"; Zhang Xian's poem "Walking on the Sand" says: "Flowers reflect the moon, and the beaded skirt is lightly folded.

"Rich people also dip-dye skirts with tulip grass, and the dyed skirts are mostly yellow, which can give off a burst of fragrance on their bodies, commonly known as" Yujin skirts ". Liao, Jin and Yuan Dynasties were the times when ethnic minorities were in power, and the skirts used by Han women in this period basically followed the legacy of the Song Dynasty. As for the skirts of ethnic minorities, they have largely retained their own characteristics. For example, women of Khitan and Jurchen nationality in Liao and Jin Dynasties often wore a skirt with dark colors and embroidered flowers and trees, which was folded into 60%, usually under the group shirt.

In the Ming Dynasty, the customs of the Han nationality were restored, and the shape of women's skirts still retained the characteristics of the Tang and Song Dynasties. The red skirt, which was popular in the Tang Dynasty, became popular again in the Ming Dynasty. The white lady in Feng Menglong's Warning to the World: The White Lady is always faithful to the Leifeng Pagoda is dressed like this: "Wearing a blue brocade shirt and a red gauze skirt. Jiang Yikui's Chang 'an Hakka Dialect in Ming Dynasty was a ballad that was circulated in Yanjing at that time, and it also involved this situation. As the ballad goes, "Flowers are burning in the street, and all branches and flowers have collapsed. Thousands of families can't buy it, so they dye their children's skirts red. "The pleated skirt popular in the Song Dynasty has not been ignored at this time. As for the length and quantity of skirts, it is easy at any time. In the early Ming Dynasty, women's dresses were light and had no obvious ornamentation. At the end of the period, I changed the simple and frivolous fashion and pursued gorgeous style. The most obvious thing is that satin is cut into strips, each of which is embroidered and inlaid with gold thread on both sides. Because it looks like a phoenix tail, it is called a phoenix tail skirt.

There is also a painted skirt, which is folded into dozens of fine pleats, each with a color. Lightweight and elegant, the wind is like a moonlight, so it is named "Yuehua skirt", and there is another kind called "Hundred Flowers skirt". Skirts are embroidered with flowers of different sizes and shapes, which are deeply loved by young women and become a dress style in the Ming Dynasty. These skirts are not recorded much in official history, but there are many descriptions in literary works. In the early Qing Dynasty, women's dresses still retained the customs of the Ming Dynasty, including phoenix-tailed skirts and yuet skirts. Later, with the passage of time, many new skirts were produced.

"Elastic ink skirt" is one of them. It is based on light-colored satin and printed with black flowers by elastic ink technology. Because of its elegant colors and unique patterns, it is very popular with women, especially ordinary women. In the future, there are more and more styles of skirts, which change at any time, and some are filled with various ribbons; There are countless little bells under the skirt to make it jingle; There is also a waterline embroidered under the skirt, which is extremely beautiful with the movement of the human body. At this time, the traditional pleated skirt has also been reformed: several pieces of cloth and silk are folded into fine pleats, and the pleats are connected in series with silk thread. Because it looks like the scales of carp when unfolded, it is called "pleated skirt with scales". This kind of skirt was popular during the Tongzhi period in the late Qing Dynasty, as evidenced by a poem: "Now whenever there is a holiday, I wear a fish-scale skirt.

"As for the Empress Dowager, Empress Dowager, Empress, and maids at home and abroad, in case of grand ceremonies, such as royal greetings and sacrifices, they should wear royal dresses. Skirts are usually worn under jackets. Korean skirts are divided into winter and summer styles according to seasons, with satin as the main material and animal skin as the edge; The summer skirt is mainly made of yarn, and the edge is brocade. The production is divided into two parts, the upper part is red or green, the lower part is stone blue, and the whole body is stacked with fine pleats. The patterns used are strictly different: the upper concubine can use dragon patterns, and the lower one can use python patterns.