Types of Traditional Clothing in China

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2. Clothing category: rough flowers and rough gold words Wu Fumei red thick gold double-layer wide twill long tail robe Mulan green double embroidered satin dress laurel green chest Ruijinyan skirt emerald blue horse face skirt pink summer lotus root silk tired beads stacked yarn pink skirt green satin pinch Hua Shuang breasted five-color brocade plate embroidered silk skirt rose purple peony brocade long skirt drag Luo long skirt rust red sprinkled. Bright gold carved silk crab claw chrysanthemum palace dress misty silver tulle gown lotus blue clip gold thread embroidered ancient philosophers satin gown sunset purple ruyi shirt mirror filigree jade embroidered folded branches piled flowers Yan skirt moon white butterfly pattern waist Hong Minghua tube top.

Shang and Zhou Dynasties

The appearance of dyeing and weaving industry at the beginning of clothes indicates that human history has entered the stage of civilization. During the prosperity of matriarchal clan, our ancestors had mastered the method of spinning with hemp and kudzu fiber. At present, silk fabrics, such as silk with thunder patterns, have been found in the Yin and Shang Dynasties. Shang society developed from hemp fabric to sericulture and silk-making clothing, which further enriched the raw materials of clothing. With the continuous progress of handicraft industry and textile industry, clothing is more diverse and exquisite. Starting from Shang Dynasty, the top and bottom clothes were the basic form of China's earliest clothing system, followed by hats, crowns, hairstyles and shoes. In ancient society, when all kinds of natural phenomena between heaven and earth could not be explained, people thought that some force dominated everything, so they worshipped the ancestors of heaven and earth and formed religious beliefs. The coat symbolizes the sky, and it is black (black) when it is unclear; The lower skirt is symbolically yellow. The service system of upper metaphysics and lower pornography comes from the worship of heaven and earth. The ancient people paid more attention to and refined the costumes for offering sacrifices to heaven and earth and ancestors than the daily costumes, and beautified them. Until now, we still refer to all kinds of clothes as "clothes".

In the Zhou dynasty, after the establishment of the enfeoffment system, the hierarchical system was also formed. China's Crown Service System also appeared in this period. Since then, there has been a distinction between high and low, and the level of clothing has been strictly distinguished.

the Spring and Autumn Period

At the turn of the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the feudal system gradually replaced slavery. The social environment of "a hundred schools of thought contend" also has different degrees of influence on clothing. At this time, there appeared a kind of clothing-deep clothes, which were connected from top to bottom.

Deep clothes are uniquely tailored, and clothes and shirts are connected together. When making, it is cut up and down with a seam in the middle. It is the most widely used, and its grandeur is second only to the dress. 65,438+02 pieces of clothes should be cut, which should last 65,438+02 months, which is in line with the ancient people's reverence for the weather, just like Chapter 12 of Emperor Tian Xuan in Coronation (the emperor was crowned, put on a mysterious dress, put on a single coat, and * * with ornaments). The length of deep clothes is roughly between the ankles.

At this time, deep clothes are very popular, regardless of gender or grade. "Book of Rites" says: "It can be used for both composition and martial arts; In other words, we can rule both the army and the enemy. Therefore, the deep coat is not only used as a dress, but also can be worn everyday. It is a very practical garment and is loved by people. During the Western Zhou Dynasty, the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the material of the deep clothes was mostly linen, and the collars, sleeves, lapels and other parts were inlaid with colored edges as decoration.

Tehan

Underwear is worn outside. Qin unified China and was the first centralized feudal country in China. The country has a history of only 15 years, but it occupies an important position in history. The Qin Dynasty established various systems, including the system of dressing clothes, which had a great influence on later generations.

In the era of Qin Shihuang, officials with three or more products were required to wear green robes, while civilians wore white robes. Officials wear a crown, a robe and big sleeves, a book knife, a water board (a note-taking tool used by the court) and a white pen (a note-taking tool used by the court) on their ears. At that time, it was more expensive for men to wear robes, and the styles of robes were mostly large sleeves with lace. People and workers wear their hair in a bun, hats, scarves, collared robes and narrow sleeves.

Qin robe is a kind of cotton underwear. Wear a coat over the robe when you wear it. This dressing habit changed in the Han Dynasty. In addition to underwear, many women also wear robes as outerwear, which gradually evolved into outerwear and became a very popular dress. From emperors to officials, regardless of rank and gender, they can also be used as royal costumes. Therefore, this practical clothing has replaced the deep clothing and become the most fashionable clothing.

With the strong national strength and economic stability in the Han Dynasty, people's requirements for clothing are getting higher and higher, and the clothing system is becoming more and more gorgeous. Zhang Qian's mission to the Western Regions opened up land transportation between China and western countries. This land passage across Europe and Asia is the famous "Silk Road". The Silk Road spread various China cultures such as silk and made in China to the world, and also brought western civilization to the East, which promoted the development of China culture.

Jin Wei

It was a period of political and economic turmoil in the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties. The scholar-bureaucrat class formed a negative social atmosphere, pursued hedonism of "taking wine as the song and life as the geometry", indulged in decadent lifestyle, and took Laozi, Zhuangzi, Buddhism and Taoism as the fashion, which was also directly reflected in people's clothing. The most representative is the seven sages at that time, who were called "Lin Qixian" by the world.

Take off your coat. Dai Bo is the fashion of this period. From princes and celebrities to the poor, big sleeves and wide shirts are fashionable. Men wear topless clothes and shawls, pursuing relaxation, nature and randomness; Women's wear is a long skirt, big sleeves, layered ribbons, elegant and generous.

Due to the long-term war, the broad masses of people in the north and south were forced to leave their homes, resulting in a multi-ethnic situation. They learn and communicate with each other, which on the one hand promotes the production technology, on the other hand changes the single culture and life customs; It has become a fashion for Han people to wear northern national costumes. No matter officers and soldiers or ordinary people, they all wear northern national costumes as casual clothes or formal clothes.

Sui and Tang Dynasties

The splendid and open Sui and Tang Dynasties were a period of high development of politics, economy and culture in China feudal society. Silk weaving, bleaching and dyeing techniques have been greatly improved. In addition, the opening to the outside world, the opening of the Silk Road, the combination of Chinese and Western cultures, and the inclusiveness made the costumes of the Tang Dynasty gorgeous and fresh, full of Tang customs.

Made in the Tang Dynasty and Sui Dynasty, the emperor wore a yellow robe with a shirt, and the yellow robe was regarded as the royal costume of the feudal emperor. This rule lasted until the Qing Dynasty. In Tang Gaozu, ochre yellow robes are used as official uniforms. Later, because the emperor used red and yellow robes, he gradually banned his subjects from wearing the colors of red and yellow, and decided the color of robes according to their grades, which was called "colored clothing."

Women's clothes are mostly topless, low-necked, with big sleeves, as well as skirts and half-arm (short-sleeved) shoulder towels. Wearing Hu clothes was also popular at that time. In addition, women in the Tang Dynasty paid attention to make-up and beautify their faces. For example, the most popular eyebrows at that time were goose-mouth eyebrows, such as wide eyebrows and eight-character eyebrows. Eyebrow ornaments, such as "flower buds" (cut into small flowers with gold foil and other materials and attached to the face), are very distinctive. There are also various forms of steamed buns.

The brocade of the Tang Dynasty has reached an unprecedented height in weaving technology and patterns. In recent years, a large number of silk fabrics have been found in Turpan, Bachu, Dunhuang, Gansu and other places in Xinjiang, with extremely rich varieties and fancy dyeing and weaving techniques. Silk reeling is also found in painted wooden figurines unearthed in Xinjiang, which is hundreds of years earlier than the literature. The patterns in the Tang dynasty not only inherited the tradition, but also absorbed the western art forms, which were unique.

Song dynasty

The establishment of the conservative and formal Song Dynasty witnessed a period of stable economic and cultural development, especially the more developed urban commercial economy. Neo-Confucianism is the norm of the life behavior of scholars. At that time, the clothes were not excessively gorgeous, kept clean and natural, and advocated simple aesthetics.

Most of the costumes in the Song Dynasty follow the Tang Dynasty, but they have their own characteristics. Most official uniforms are right-angled crowns with big sleeves, and different colors of clothes are used to distinguish official ranks; The fashion of aristocratic women is a big sleeve shirt. In addition, the women's dress in Song Dynasty is a kind of coat called "back", which is characterized by double-breasted collar, slit at both axils, and knee-length clothes. It can be worn from the queen to ordinary people, which shows its popularity.

Influenced by feudal ethics, from the Five Dynasties to the Song Dynasty, the bad habit of foot-binding appeared, also known as "foot-binding". Arch shoes (foot-binding shoes) unearthed in the Southern Song Dynasty are upturned, with a length of 13.3 cm and a width of 4.5 cm. It can be seen that the oppression suffered by women at that time was the embodiment of abnormal aesthetic view in feudal society.

the Yuan Dynasty

There was no complete crown service system in Yuan Dynasty. Mongolians still maintain their living customs after entering the Central Plains, but at the same time, influenced by the Han nationality, their costumes are becoming increasingly gorgeous.

The Yuan Dynasty was dominated by robes. The daily clothes of officials and scholars are mostly narrow-sleeved robes. In addition, at the grand banquet of the Yuan Dynasty, the officials of Tiandi had to wear uniform colors, which was called "quality clothes drying". According to ancient records, Tiandi's high-quality sun clothes have many styles: winter clothes 1 1, summer clothes 15.

Women in this period also wore robes, while Han women mainly wore skirts. Due to the influence of Mongolian customs and habits, it was popular in Yuan Dynasty for men to wear braided hair and beard hair, which was characterized by shaving two straight lines with a knife, shaving off all the hair at the back of the head, leaving braided hair on the left and right sides or spreading it casually.

tomorrow

Regain Han and Tang dynasties

After Zhu Yuanzhang, the emperor of the Ming Dynasty, proclaimed himself emperor, in order to restore the etiquette of the Han nationality, a new dress system was formulated based on the Tang Song Zhou Han. Official clothes are mainly official clothes, and officials take "auxiliary clothes" as official clothes, wearing official clothes and round neck shirts. The so-called "auxiliary service" refers to the official service embroidered with square patterns in front of the robe. The picture of a civilian is a bird, and the picture of a military attache is a beast. Grades are distinguished by the colors and patterns of robes.

In addition, male officials and Confucian scholars in the Ming Dynasty all wore "square nipples", which were made of black gauze and could be folded, and the four corners were square when unfolded. It is popular for women to wear "Gaby" clothing, which is a sleeveless and collarless double-breasted vest (vest) that covers the skirt.

Ching Dynasty

The Qing dynasty was established after the complicated Qing soldiers entered the customs. The clothing system in Qing Dynasty is the most complicated in China. Clothing not only retains the customs of Manchu, but also absorbs the clothing characteristics of Han nationality. The most representative thing is to follow the characteristics of "tonic clothing" in the Ming Dynasty.

The main costumes of men in Qing Dynasty were robes, mandarin jackets and vests. The biggest feature of robes is that the cuffs are shaped like horseshoes. Because Manchu people are good at riding and shooting, horseshoe-shaped cuffs have evolved. A "jacket" is a kind of clothes that can be worn outside a robe, regardless of gender. "vest", also known as "vest", has various shapes and is mainly characterized by colorful embroidery.

In the Qing Dynasty, the military and civilians were required to wear Manchu costumes, forcing Han men to change their hair styles, shave their foreheads and braid their hair according to Manchu customs. At that time, the ruler issued an order to the Han people, that is, "leave your head, leave your hair, leave your head."

Women mainly wear cheongsam, which used to be Manchu costumes, and Han people also wear it. Cheongsam has a wide style, a tubular waist, and then gradually narrows and fits.

Modern Times

Social Revolution 19 1 1 The Revolution of 1911 broke out in China, which aroused the demand of "abolishing the monarchy, cutting off the pigtails and changing clothes". Due to the influence of western culture at that time, the whole society, including clothing, is also changing with each passing day. At that time, men's clothes were mainly gowns and jackets, while young people wore suits and "student clothes", and "Zhongshan suit" became the most fashionable clothes in the Republic of China.

The appearance of "Zhongshan suit" was after the Revolution of 1911. Dr. Sun Yat-sen thinks that what kind of clothes revolutionaries wear is a big problem, and he made reforms according to the styles of China clothes and western suits. The original style has a back seam, a waist belt on the back, 9 buttons on the front placket, and pleats on the upper and lower pockets. Dr. Sun Yat-sen took the lead in wearing this kind of clothing, and people called it "Zhongshan suit" in memory of him.

In the early years of the Republic of China, there was not much difference between women's cheongsam and Qing Dynasty. In 1930s and 1940s, cheongsam entered its heyday. At this time, cheongsam developed into a sleeveless style with narrow sleeves, waist, which is more comfortable, fit and beautiful, highlighting the curvaceous beauty of women.

A jade garment/suit sewn with gold thread

Funerals of emperors and nobles in Han Dynasty in China. According to the level of the deceased, it can be divided into golden wisps, silver carvings and bronze wisps. 1968 Two sets of gold thread jade clothes unearthed from the Han tomb in Mancheng are well preserved and shaped like human bodies, each consisting of more than 2,000 pieces of gold thread jade clothes. The size and shape of each piece of jade have been carefully designed and processed, showing the superb technological level at that time. A kind of jade clothes. Woven with gold thread, it was used as mourning clothes after the death of emperors and nobles in Han Dynasty. Due to different grades, jade clothes can be divided into three types: gold, silver and copper, all of which have been found in archaeological work. Two sets of gold thread jade clothes unearthed from the tombs of Wang Jing and Liu Sheng of Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum in Mancheng, Hebei Province, each set consists of more than 2,000 pieces of gold thread jade.

Flat square

The special big hairpin for Manchu women to comb the flag head is flat. At the end of the Qing dynasty, the court used to comb the "big wings", some of which were as long as two inches. Some jade squares in the Qing Palace are green as water, while others are inlaid with auspicious patterns such as gold and silver, blue sky longevity characters, group flowers and bats. The square made of this precious jade is worn through the hair pin of the horizontal hairpin, and the emerald color is in sharp contrast with the dark hair, creating a special beautiful effect.