Some knowledge about kimono

For the origin of kimono, after a day's search, it can be said that there is basically a unified answer to this question. There is no doubt that PPT from academic papers and experts' speeches abroad has many references to the following statement.

The origin of kimono can be traced back to the 3rd century. According to the Legend of the Japanese in Wei Zhi, it is a piece of cloth, with a hole in the middle, through which the head goes, without a tailor. This is the prototype of kimono. (Note that the time is the 3rd century AD, and there is no "pre". It can correspond to Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, Spring and Autumn Period and Warring States Period (770 BC-22 BC1year). After the 4th century, the characters' clothing images are similar to those in murals unearthed in Tonggou, Le Lang and Korea, so it can be inferred that the Japanese clothing at that time was Hu clothing introduced through the Korean Peninsula. Later, China's Tang Dynasty costumes had a great influence on it. That is, there are written records in Nara period from 7 10 to 784, during which China costumes were introduced into Japan and institutionalized. However, most of the plant patterns are copied from China, with large patterns and bright colors, which have the flavor of ancient Tang costumes in China.

In Heian period (794- 1 184), kimono began to form its own characteristics and gradually matured. Clothing patterns began to change, patterns began to be less concrete than before, and professional patterns began to appear, and patterns were diversified. During the Muromachi period (1 185-65438+ the middle of the 6th century), kimono, a Japanese national costume with unique Sui and Tang characteristics, was almost unchanged for more than 600 years after its evolution and finalization.

Second, the characteristics of kimono patterns

Generally speaking, the patterns of traditional kimonos are relatively small, exquisite and delicate, and most of the patterns used are relatively small, such as luck patterns, small geometric patterns and small tufts. It can be said that the traditional Japanese dyeing and weaving patterns usually take the beauty of delicacy as their aesthetic purport. So it is rare to see big patterns on kimonos.

Take finely divided flowers as beauty.

Japanese kimono patterns come from several sources. First, it comes from the worship of nature. For example, the most used plants are seasonal plants, such as cherry blossoms and plum blossoms. Secondly, the patterns formed in the literary background spread out like paintings, so kimono is also called "flower viewing screen". Third, the patterns introduced into Japan during the Sui and Tang Dynasties.

In terms of patterns, China elements are widely used in Japan, and they appreciate the meaning represented by these elements. Yuanyang, for example, as a symbol of harmony between husband and wife, was introduced to Japan in the Tang Dynasty. Treasure flower pattern is a kind of rose, and the flowers are big and gorgeous. The decorative pattern of baohua in Tang dynasty is a pattern made of peony or lotus, which is popular in Japan in the balance era. The pattern of gobang, which was popular in the Tang Dynasty, is a pattern in which many small circles are connected to form a big circle. The pattern is centered on animal patterns, and animal patterns such as birds, peacocks and dragons are widely used.

The main meaning of kimono pattern. Because the pattern of kimono is deeply influenced by the pattern of China, especially the pattern of Tang suit, kimono is also called "Tang suit", "Tang brocade" and "Tang grass". These influences are not limited to the pattern itself, but more importantly, they entrust people with their yearning and pursuit of beautiful things. Pine, plum and bamboo are called "three friends of the old and the cold". As auspicious patterns, they are widely used in kimono patterns. In addition, dragon, unicorn, phoenix and other patterns representing Zhao Rui are also very popular in Japan.

Professional patterns on kimono (Japan patterned natural, rough and strange patterns, and used concrete content to make them decorative and geometric through deformation. Such as group pattern, antithesis pattern, turtle back pattern) has a deeper meaning. As early as the Han Dynasty, the twelve chapters representing positions appeared in the coronation clothes of the Han Dynasty. The "Twelve Chapters" comes from the Book of Arts, and the clothes are decorated with 12 patterns such as sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, insects, algae, fire, fans, Zong Yi, flounder and haze, representing the twelve talents and virtues of the monarch. Japanese court costumes are based on the royal costumes of China in Sui and Tang Dynasties. Since the implementation of the legal system, the emperor's royal dresses have been crowned with 12 patterns such as the sun, the moon, the stars and the dragon and phoenix. Among them, Zhu Tong Feng Huangwen has the highest official position and the greatest influence.

Three Japanese families

The Japanese family emblem is a coat of arms used to express the pedigree, pedigree and status of a family. According to research, more than 900 years ago, in order to show their status and family background, nobles marked their possessions, and each family used fixed patterns, which gradually became the family background pattern of the family. Family lines were originally owned by nobles and warriors, but they became popular in the Edo period. Ordinary businessmen, workers and farmers all had family lines. Family emblem is the representative of status, and many of them are related to Japanese surnames. When you see a fixed feather crest, others will know why you are at home. Family lines can't be used indiscriminately and can't be modified at will. The mode of the tool class obtained by searching data is as follows:

Wheel lines (often called Genji cars) radiate from the center of round wheels in all directions, some of which are like the rays of the sun. This kind of wheel originally came from the royal car in the middle ages and was called Genji car for a long time. This family model is widely used. The number of spokes of the wheel is 8, 9, 12, some have no width, and some have changes in the middle, all representing different families.

Genji's most familiar design is Tanabe, the frame of which is 65,438+02. It is the family emblem of Yasunari Tanabe (65,438+0548-65,438+0606), a Japanese military commander from the Warring States Period to the Edo period, and an early vassal of Ueno National Pavilion Marco Lin. The application of family mode (original car) is as follows:

Japan's family pattern will not change from the date of confirmation. For example, the number of spokes and the edge width of the original car are fixed, and once they are different, they will become another one. The Sato family, which evolved from the Tanihara family, still has more than 2 million people using car patterns. Just like the family pattern of the Japanese royal family is eighteen chrysanthemums, one petal less is not royal blood.

Some people may ask, there is a knight coat of arms in the west and a family coat of arms in Japan, so has China ever had such a coat of arms representing identity? Yes In the Western Zhou Dynasty and the Spring and Autumn Period, each surname of China also had its own family emblem. As a status symbol, it came into being in response to the feudal system. However, after Qin Shihuang unified the six countries, the county system was implemented and the concept of territory no longer existed. At the same time, family emblem has almost the same function as surname and surname. With the development of writing, the complex family emblem gradually disappeared, just like when the ancient generals of China sent troops, they all wrote a surname on the banner, and finally the surname replaced the family emblem. Does the family emblem of our country still exist? Chiang Kai-shek has his own family emblem. Of course, in China today, surnames have undergone a thousand years of evolution. I couldn't find a foreign surname at that time. Here are some examples of family badges:

Four kimono styles

Location of (1) family line

In Japan, family background can restrain people's behavior. Wear clothes with family patterns, use items with family patterns, and others can know who it is without saying their names. Therefore, the family pattern in clothing will not be changed at will, and there are fixed patterns when used, and the application in clothing also has strict requirements. First of all, family patterns can only be used in more formal dresses, including one pattern, three patterns and five patterns, of which five patterns are generally decorated on the most important dresses to attend the most important occasions. The position value of the family line on kimono is also fixed. The position of family pattern can be empty, and there is no family pattern on the casual clothes you wear every day. A pattern on the back seam of the clothes; Three stripes, one coat of arms at the back seam and one at the left and right shoulders; Five, back seam, one coat of arms on the left and right back shoulders and one coat of arms on the left and right front shoulders.

(2) the style of kimono

There are many kinds of kimonos in Japan, such as bathrobe, brocade kimono, small pattern, color without land, reward, interview, two-foot sleeve, sleeve-keeping, vibrating sleeve, flower wedding kimono and so on. Basically, kimono is more important. There are only two kinds of clothes here, which are more important than Japanese women.

Vibrating sleeves are the most advanced dresses for unmarried women, usually with five stripes. Vibrating rods are divided into three details: small vibrating rods (two-legged rods), medium vibrating rods (vibrating rods) and large vibrating rods (local vibrating rods). Small vibrating sleeves are generally used as dresses for admission and graduation, medium vibrating sleeves are mostly used for new year, adult and unmarried women to attend formal occasions, and large vibrating sleeves are mostly used for weddings. Vibrating sleeves can be divided into small handles and painted feather vibrating sleeves according to patterns. Small stalk means that the pattern has no directionality and repeats constantly. Feather painting means that the pattern has directionality and regularity, and it looks like a painting after being unfolded. As a vibrating sleeve, the small handle can't be used as a dress to attend formal activities, while the painted feather vibrating sleeve is much more elegant than the small handle, with complex technology and gorgeous patterns. A good painted feather vibration sleeve can sell for a sky-high price. Among the vibrating sleeves, the black background has the highest style, and the vibrating sleeve with five family lines attached to the black background is a very grand dress.

Sleeves are the most advanced dress for married women, but in recent years, there are also older unmarried women who use them as dresses. This kimono pattern is only below the belt, with black sleeves (with black as the background color) and colored sleeves (with other colors except black as the background color). The black sleeves are higher than the colored sleeves. Black sleeve patterns are generally solemn, mainly auspicious patterns, four gentlemen or other classical patterns. Because black sleeves are the most advanced dresses, there are usually five family lines, while colored sleeves usually have only three lines.

As can be seen from the above description, black is often a symbol of high style, whether it is vibrating sleeves or keeping sleeves, so kimonos with black background are more likely to attract people's attention, giving people the impression that kimonos with patterns on black background are kimonos. But the Japanese royal family hates black, so black is rarely seen in royal dresses.

(3) the position of kimono pattern

As the highest dress for married women, black sleeves are not casually painted. Gradually evolved from the initial symmetry, and now a fixed mode configuration has been formed. Look at the pattern of modern black sleeves, with more left and less right. However, judging from most kimonos, they basically follow the pattern of more left and less right.