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Costume culture of past dynasties and its social background

Social background of dynasty costume culture

In the pre-Qin period, the standard color of Qin costumes was black. But the style is still broad-chested and right-handed Basically follow the Warring States period. Women's clothes are tight and narrow, and they can also mop the floor. The hem is generally trumpet-shaped and does not expose the feet. Sleeves are wide and narrow, and cuffs are mostly wrapped. The collar part is very distinctive, usually a cross collar, and the neckline is very low to expose underwear. At the same time, each layer of collar should be exposed, up to more than three layers, which is called "three-layer coat". There are similarities and differences between the national and religious sacrifices in Qin Dynasty and those in Shang and Zhou Dynasties. There are unchangeable and changeable, and the general trend is that religious ceremonies tend to be simple. The course of human political civilization is not only a process of improving political consciousness and thinking, but also a process of simplifying political ceremonies, and there is an obvious reverse movement between them.

During the Han dynasty, the clothes of the Han dynasty were tossed and turned several times, wrapped around the buttocks and tied with ribbons, and the clothes were painted with exquisite and gorgeous patterns. Both men and women can wear it in Han Dynasty. This kind of dress appeared as early as the Western Han Dynasty, but it can't be used as a formal dress. After the Eastern Han Dynasty, Zhili gradually became popular, replacing Shenfu. The Han Dynasty was one of the most powerful feudal dynasties in China. In the era of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, China was the largest, richest and strongest country in the world at that time. At the end of the Han dynasty, social contradictions were extremely fierce, and uprisings and riots continued everywhere. The background of this era has a great influence on the development of China literature.

Women's dresses in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties inherited the customs of Qin and Han Dynasties, and absorbed the characteristics of national costumes, which were improved on the basis of tradition. Generally speaking, they wear shirts, coats, sweaters and skirts. Most styles are tight at the top and loose at the bottom, with tight body parts and wide cuffs. The skirt is pleated, with a long skirt and a loose hem, so it achieves a handsome and chic effect. Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties is an important turning point of ancient furniture design in China. The reason is that Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties is an important historical period for the development of China's thought, and it is also an era of ideological liberation after the Warring States Period. With the decline of Confucianism, new life values, outlook on life and social ethics are constantly emerging, and philosophy is also developing.

Skirt is the main clothing style of women in Tang Dynasty. During the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women's shorts were all small sleeve, with tight-fitting long skirts and high-waisted laces, usually above the waist, and some even tied under the armpits and tied with ribbons. The skirt in the middle Tang Dynasty is wider than that in the early Tang Dynasty. The characteristics of costume culture in Tang Dynasty reflect the extensive exchange of costume culture among ethnic groups in peacetime. This kind of dress reflects the bold attempt of Tang people in dress, embodies the ideology of human pursuit of physical beauty, and is the expression of women's ideological liberation in dress.

The clothing of Han men in Song Dynasty followed two traditional styles: wide row, right collar and round neck. The round neck style is wider than the men's cuffs in the Tang and Song Dynasties. There are two basic styles of Han women's dresses in Song Dynasty: large breasted and right breasted. The historical changes of costume characteristics in Song Dynasty, from simplicity in the early years to luxury in the late years, on the one hand show the development of social economy, on the other hand, it also shows the gradual decay of the ruling class.

The Yuan Dynasty basically followed the costumes of the Tang Dynasty. All men wear hats and robes, and all robes are green, which seems to be related to the system at that time. The hoe's feet droop slightly, and there may be "silk strings" in the middle, so it has certain elasticity, which is a common style in the late Tang and Five Dynasties. At that time, women's dresses were mainly short skirts and round neck robes. The waist is usually tied with ribbons, and the rest hangs like two streamers. The flounder is narrower than that of the Tang Dynasty, but its length is obviously increased, about three to four meters. The Yuan Dynasty was the most open period in the history of China, and it was also an important period for the formation of a unified multi-ethnic country in China. The Yuan Dynasty lasted only a hundred years. However, the collision between the wild and simple grassland culture (nomadic culture) and the mature and rich Central Plains culture (farming culture) has a unique charm, adding a lot of fresh content to the splendid culture of the Chinese nation.

In the Ming Dynasty, men's clothing styles still followed two traditional styles, namely, big chest, right collar and round neck. Women's wear is more diverse than men's wear. Women's wear in Ming Dynasty mainly includes shirts, coats, gowns, back pockets, bibs and skirts. Most of the basic styles of clothes were imitated from the Tang and Song Dynasties, and they were generally right-handed, which restored the customs of the Han nationality. The society was relatively stable in the early Ming Dynasty. During the years of Hongwu and Yongle, in addition to the continued development of the original cities, a number of new commercial centers appeared in the north and south. By the16th century, the capitalist factors in the social economy of the Ming Dynasty had further developed.

Men's clothing in Qing Dynasty mainly included robes, jackets, coats, shirts and trousers. One of them is called "vest" or "vest", which is worn by both men and women. Styles include large lapels, double lapels and pipa lapels. There is also a kind of vest, which is wrapped around and nailed with a row of buttons on the chest, commonly known as "single-breasted" vest, or "Thirteen Pacific Insurance". The Qing dynasty was a feudal ruling institution with the upper Manchu as the main body. It is the last feudal dynasty of feudal monarchy, an important chapter in the long history of China, and a great turning point connecting the past with the future. This period of history has left an extremely rich and precious legacy to future generations. By the Qing dynasty, the traditional economy reached its peak, the technical level of various production departments was unprecedentedly improved, and commercial trade was quite prosperous.