Woodworking tools and their use

Woodworking tools generally have sharp edges, so you must pay attention to safety when using them. The most important thing is to master the correct posture and methods of using various tools, such as sawing, planing and chopping with an axe, and pay attention to the position of the body and the correct posture of hands and feet. When operating woodworking machinery, especially strictly abide by the safety operation procedures.

Woodworking tools need to be repaired frequently, especially planers and chisels, and should be sharpened at any time, so as to save labor and ensure quality when using them. This is the truth of the so-called "sharpening the knife and cutting the wood by mistake". Woodworking saws should also be trimmed frequently. Sawteeth should be sharpened with a file, and "sawing" should also be trimmed. The saw path is formed by regularly inclining the saw teeth to the left and right sides of the saw blade.

After use, tools should be classified and packaged. When the tool is not used for a long time, the cutting edge of the tool should be oiled to prevent corrosion.

I. Measuring tools and their use

1, steel tape measure

Used for blanking and measuring parts, easy to carry and flexible to use. 2m or 3m specifications are often selected.

2, steel ruler

Generally made of stainless steel, it has high precision and wear resistance. Used to mark tenon line, start line, slot line, etc. Often choose 150-500mm.

3. Square ruler

In ancient times, people called it square (or square) and compass. As the saying goes, "Without rules, there would be no Fiona Fang".

Compass, the specification and trajectory of compass circle depend on compass; Moment, rectangle. A square is a square. Compasses and square feet can improve the shape of square and round furniture.

When blanking, the square can be used to mark vertically; Parallel marks for tenon and mortise shoulders of structures; Used to measure whether the product angle is correct and vertical, and also used to process whether the panel is flat and so on.

A square is made of wood, steel and aluminum. Square ruler is the main tool for woodworking marking, and its specification is determined by the ratio of the length of the ruler handle to the ruler wing.

Such as: small square 200: 300 mm; Square ruler 250: 410 mm; Square 400:630mm.

Be sure to protect the right-angle accuracy of the square ruler. Do not throw it around or place it anywhere. Do not knock objects with the square ruler at will, which will loosen the joint between the handle and the wing of the square ruler and make the verticality of the square ruler unusable.

4. Triangular ruler: used to draw a 45-degree angle.

5. Movable square: used to draw any angle.

6. Mo Dou

Mo Dou's principle is that ink lines are wound on movable wheels. After the ink line is wound on the Amo bucket wheel, the end line is tied on the fixed needle. When in use, the fixed needle is pulled, and the drawn ink line is dipped in ink through the Mo Dou under the rotation of the movable wheel, so that the ink line becomes straight, and the line to be processed pops up on the wood.

Mo Dou is mostly used for cutting wood. Mo Dou, a carpenter engaged in furniture making, can do a little less, and carpenters engaged in building wood structure making can do a little more. On the one hand, Mo Dou can be used as elastic thread for logs and sawn timber, or elastic thread for straightening the edges of boards, and it can also be used as elastic thread marking in other aspects, such as material splicing. For example, Mo Dou is sometimes used to hang a vertical line to measure whether the pay-off is vertical and flat.

Mo Dou threading method: Hold Mo Dou in the left hand, wet the scroll with a little water, and dye the cotton in the ink box with ink. When in use, the thumb of the left hand presses the pencil to press the cotton ball in the ink box, and the palm of the thumb also leans against the scroll or loosens the scroll to control the rotation or stop of the wheel. The right hand first fixed Mo Dou's needle at one end of the wood. At this time, the left hand loosens the roller to pull out the thin line stained with ink, and draws the wood surface closer. Hold the chalk line in the middle with your right hand and lift it perpendicular to the wood surface. Once thrown, it can pop up obvious and straight ink lines.

When using Mo Dou, be sure to lift the ink line with your right hand in the middle, so as to ensure that it is vertical, not left and right, and avoid that the ink line that pops up is not straight, forming a curve or an arc, resulting in bending of the blanking plate.

7.rowing boat

Paddle is a tool used by Mo Dou to press ink and draw lines. It is made of buffalo horn and sawed into the shape of a meat cleaver. It can be used by grinding and polishing the thin edge of the marked part on a grindstone.

A good buffalo horn paddle, dipped in ink evenly and underlined clearly. As long as it is used correctly, the line error of the pick is much smaller than that of the pencil. Only later, people gradually used pencils, and some used bamboo as paddles, but the error was large and the effect was not very good.

8. Essentials of Underline

Blanking marking inherits the process specification and is also a part of the content of "three points marking and seven points doing". Select materials; Blanking and marking can correctly reflect matching materials and machining allowance.

Scribing is the premise or basic condition of furniture making. Cutting and scribing are the first premise of furniture modeling, structure and material application design. Because cutting and scribing are a big problem to ensure furniture modeling, we must first decide what material to use, whether the quality, size and quality of the material can meet the requirements of furniture production, how to do it and what to do. Blanking and marking should be designed as a whole.

Marking process is the standard of woodworking industry. As a technical language, it is universal. It is a communication language in which one person draws lines and many people saw, planed, chiseled, sawed and assembled. It is the earliest production line made by traditional technology.

Scribing is related to material selection and blanking, various processing procedures and artistic beauty of furniture style. Therefore, marking is a particularly important prerequisite and guarantee for furniture making. In folk crafts, some people call furniture marking "tailor-made, labor-saving and material-saving". According to the requirements of production, furniture should not only have good style and firm structure, but also save labor and materials, that is, measure the "body" of furniture design and cut the "clothes" of wood to make the materials reasonable.

(1) When marking, it is necessary to know the carpenter's measuring tools and marking tools, and combine the marking technology of wood structure to consolidate the basis of marking to meet the necessary requirements.

(2) The accuracy of marking mainly depends on the correct use of measuring tools. First, whether the specifications of marking tools, such as rulers, square rulers and oblique rulers are correct. The second is the mistake of using a pen. That is, the pencil error is generally about 0.25-0.3 mm, and the traditional technology generally pays attention to using the pick mentioned in the previous blanking line. Now some use scoring knives, and it is more accurate to score with scoring knives at some angles.

The accuracy of the mark depends on the specification of the mark. Correct alignment is the premise of technology. According to the accuracy of linear machining, there are often technical specifications. Such as planing and sawing rough machining, mostly leaving threads; Wire sawing or wiring can be carried out during rough sawing. For example, when planing, chiseling and sawing materials, we should pay attention to eating and leaving threads according to the size and scale of joints.

(3) The correct way to use the thread-taking and thread-leaving method is whether it is appropriate to drop or leave thread during processing. This is the difference between one thread and another. The difference between the first line can ensure the firmness of furniture structure, and the difference between the first line will also cause the looseness of furniture structure and the quality cannot be guaranteed. In the process of sawing and planing, craftsmen use the difference between eating thread and leaving thread to ensure the accuracy of machining quality.

Second, the hand saw and its sawing

The sawing process of hand saw is an important part of traditional furniture production and processing.

Sawtooth and sawing

Sawing can cut wood into various shapes or reach the required size of wood components. The purpose of sawing is to saw wood vertically or horizontally. When sawing with a saw, it is a working process that the saw blade cuts wood quickly in a straight line or curve with gentle pressure and propulsion. Saws cut wood in this process, and because of the continuous action of saw teeth, wood also produces great friction or extrusion force on the saw teeth. Therefore, the saw blade must have the strength to resist extrusion force, certain plasticity and heat resistance, so that the tooth edge of the saw blade will not become dull.

When choosing a saw blade, you must choose a saw blade with good rigidity and toughness, so that the saw blade is easy to file and durable. Hand-made saw blades are generally made of carbon tool steel with good rigidity and heat treatment. Mechanical circular saw blade adopts alloy tool steel, which can meet the working characteristics of circular saw blade; Band saw blade is made of Cr-W-Mn alloy steel with moderate hardness. Therefore, the choice of saw blade also needs to really understand the advantages and disadvantages of saw blade in practice.

In production practice, with the improvement of the quality of furniture products and the improvement and development of manufacturing technology, carpenters have invented many sawing tools to meet the processing needs, some of which have been eliminated and some are still in use. However, judging from the craft characteristics of traditional craftsmen at this stage, firstly, the traditional craft still needs hand tools; Second, the sharpening, repair and maintenance techniques of mechanized production are all related to the maintenance technical principles of hand tools. Therefore, understanding the traditional types of various saws, being familiar with the performance of hand saws and being good at using them correctly are conducive to improving the production level of traditional crafts.

Sawtooth is the core of woodworking saw. Saws with different sawing purposes have different tooth profiles and sawing paths. The shape of the tooth edge is related to the angle of the sawtooth. Generally, it is slightly inclined along the sawtooth, about 90-95, and the cutting saw is between 80-85. When in use, the greater the angle between the sawtooth angle and the root line of the saw blade, the weaker the sawing force and the easier the sawdust to be discharged. On the contrary, the smaller the angle, the stronger the sawing force, and the sawdust is not easy to be discharged. The hardness and dryness of wood materials also determine the sawtooth angle. For example, when sawing hard or dry wood, the sawtooth angle should be smaller, while when sawing soft or wet wood, the sawtooth angle should be as large as possible. A newly made saw or a saw with a blunt edge should be filed with a file. When filing teeth, it should be noted that the tooth back of the tooth profile is not higher than the tooth edge, the blade of the tooth throat angle is straight and not protruding, the tooth pitch is consistent, the size of the tooth cavity is uniform, the tooth throat angle should be slightly curved, and the tooth tip is sharp and bright. Because of the different sawing purposes, the saw has to split the saw teeth into different forms, thus forming a "saw path" with the left and right teeth widened or narrowed. Sawing is mostly assisted by a special "moving device". When moving the sawtooth, pay attention to the uniform sawing, the same size and angle, and the straight sawing, without convex teeth, concave teeth and twisted teeth, otherwise the sawtooth will jump or "deviate" during use, which will affect the normal sawing. If the sawing path is large, it is suitable for sawing soft or wet wood, and if the sawing path is small, it is suitable for sawing hard or dry wood.

(2) Types of traditional hand saws

1, frame saw. Also known as frame saw, it consists of I-shaped wood frame, twisted rope, twisted blade and saw blade. The two ends of the saw blade are fixed on the frame with knobs, which can be used to adjust the angle of the saw blade. After the rope is tightened, the saw blade is tightened and can be used. Frame saw can be divided into three types according to the length and pitch of saw blade: thick, medium and thin. The saw blade length of the rough saw is 650-750 4-5mm, and the tooth pitch is 4-5mm. The rough saw is mainly used for sawing thick wood. The saw blade length of medium-sized saw is 550-650 3-4 mm, and the tooth pitch is 3-4 mm. Medium-sized saw is mainly used for sawing thin wood or tenoning. The saw blade length of the fine saw is 450—500mm, and the tooth pitch is 2-3mm. Fine saws are mainly used for sawing fine wood and tenoning shoulders.

2, knife saw. Knife saw is mainly composed of saw blade and saw handle, which can be divided into single-sided, double-sided and back-clamped knife saw. One-sided knife saw is 350mm long and has a toothed edge on one side. According to the different functions of the tooth edge, it can be divided into longitudinal cutting and transverse cutting. The double-sided knife saw is 300mm long and has serrated blades on both sides. Generally, one side of the tooth edge on both sides is a vertical cutting saw and the other side is a transverse cutting saw. The saw board of the back-clip knife saw is 250-300 mm long, and the back of the back-clip knife saw is clamped straight with steel bars, with fine serrations, divided into longitudinal cutting and transverse cutting.

3. Slot saw. The slot saw consists of a handle and a saw blade, which is about 200 mm long. Slot saws are mainly used for sawing wood.

4, board saw. Also known as a hand saw. It consists of a handle and a saw blade. The length of saw blade is about 250-750 3-4 mm, and the pitch of teeth is 3-4 mm. Plate saw is mainly used for sawing wide plates.

5 narrow hand saw. The saw blade is narrow and long, with a sharp front end and a length of about 300-400 mm The narrow hand saw is mainly used to saw narrow holes and slots.

6. Bending saw. Also known as circular saw, its structure is the same as that of frame saw, but the saw blade is narrow (about 10mm), which is mainly used for sawing arcs, curves and other parts.

7. Wire saw. Also known as bow saw, it is made of bamboo pieces bent into an arch and steel wires stretched at both ends. Saw flash is cut on the steel wire, and the sharp edge of flash is used for sawing. The steel wire is about 200-600 mm long, and the saw bow is 800-900 mm long. Wire saws are mainly used to saw complex curves and holes.

(3) the use of frame saw

Before using the frame saw, adjust the angle of the saw blade with the knob, and twist the rope with the kink piece to make the saw blade straight. There are two ways to use the frame saw: vertical cutting and horizontal cutting.

1, longitudinal cutting method

When sawing wood, put the wood on the bench, hold it with your right foot at right angles to the sawing line, stand upright with your left foot at an angle of 60, perpendicular to your right knee with your right hand, and make an angle of about 45 with the sawing line. Bend your upper body slightly and take the initiative, but don't throw yourself on the left. When sawing, the right hand holds the saw, and the left thumb leans against the saw blade for positioning. Push the saw gently with your right hand several times (pull first and then push) to open the saw path, and leave the saw edge with your left hand. When the sawtooth cuts into the wood about 5mm, the left hand helps the right hand to lift the frame saw. Lift the saw gently, and the sawman can raise it slightly. When sending the saw, it should be heavy, and the wrist, elbow and shoulder should be forced at the same time, with rhythm. Only in this way can the saw blade advance along the saw line. Otherwise, the wood edge after longitudinal cutting will not bend straight, or the kerf section will be different from top to bottom.

2, transverse cutting method

When sawing, put the wood on the bench, stand at the left rear of the wood, hold the wood in your left hand, hold the saw in your right hand and hold the wood in your left foot. The sawing method is the same as the longitudinal cutting method.

When sawing with a frame saw, the lower end of the saw blade should be tilted forward. The upper end of the longitudinal saw blade is inclined backward by about 75-90 degrees (the included angle with the wood surface), and the transverse saw blade is inclined backward by about 30-45 degrees. Always pay attention to make the saw blade move forward in a straight line without deviation. The kerf should be straight, so as not to make the saw blade swing from side to side and produce deflection. When the wood is about to be sawed off, you should firmly hold the left hand to cut off the material, slow down the sawing speed and saw off all the wood. Don't leave a bit, let it break or break by hand, which will easily damage the saw blade, and the wood will tear along the grain, which will affect the quality.

(4) Matters needing attention in selecting and using chainsaws

Big saws are usually used for wide and thick plates; Small saws are usually used to cut narrow and thin wood; Coarse saws are usually used for crosscutting; Tenon and tenon shoulder are commonly used with fine saws; Use saws with large paths for hardwood and wet wood, and saws with small paths for cork and dry wood.

When using, be sure to pay attention to the safe operation methods of various saws:

1. Before using the frame saw, adjust the angle of the saw blade with the knob. It is customary to twist the guy rope with a hinge at an angle of 45 to the plane of the wooden frame to make the saw blade straight and tight. When sawing the road, the right hand holds the saw handle tightly, and the left hand presses it from the beginning, pushing and pulling it gently. Don't push too hard; Don't twist left and right when sawing, be heavy when sending the saw, be light when lifting the saw, and push-pull rhythm should be even; After sawing, hold the sawed part firmly by hand. After use, loosen the saw blade and hang it in a firm position.

2. When using the cross saw, balance the force of both hands to prevent the saw from running to the side with strong force; When correcting the offset, the deviation should be corrected slowly to prevent the saw blade from being stuck or broken.

3. When using the wire saw, the force should not be too strong and the sawing speed should not be too fast to avoid wire breakage. When sawing, the operator's head is not allowed to be at the upper end of the bow, so as not to hurt his face when the steel wire breaks.

4. Check the sharpness of the saw blade and the firmness of the saw frame and handle at any time; Saw blades with dull teeth and uneven slope should be repaired in time, as well as the damage of ropes, nuts, knobs, handles and wooden frames before they can be used again.

Third, the traditional woodworking plane and its use

The joints of furniture production, the atmosphere and laws of various linear production are all manifested in the production and correct use of woodworking planer. There are many kinds of hand planers, which are used for rough planing, fine planing, material cleaning, polishing, starting, grooving and rounding of wood.

(A) the composition of the manual plane

Hand planer is a common tool for making traditional ancient furniture, which consists of planer and planer. Planer is made of metal, and planer is made of wood.

The process of manual planing is the process that the planer keeps cutting wood during the forward movement of the planer. Planing or processing the surface of wood is called planing. After wood is scored, chiseled and sawn, it is called net material. After the furniture structure is combined, the whole planing is called net light.

In the process of continuous wood cutting, the greater friction of wood will react on the cutting edge of the planer, making the cutting edge of the planer hot and dull. If the wood is harder, the cutting edge of the plane will become dull faster. If there are many sundries on the wood surface, it can also passivate the sharpness of the cutting edge of the plane. Therefore, when selecting the planing blade, we should choose the blade with good rigidity and good heat treatment. In fact, when forging a planer, the cutter body is made of ordinary carbon steel (with high iron content) and then forged with a thin layer of tool steel for quenching and bonding. After mechanical grinding and cutting, the blade is suitable for use after heat treatment. If the quenching after heat treatment is too hard, the planer is hard, difficult to sharpen, and easy to break when it meets hard objects. After heat treatment, the quenching is too soft, and the planing edge is soft and easy to curl, so it can't be used for a long time, and the cutting edge will soon become dull. Therefore, it is best to observe the advantages and disadvantages of the planing blade after it is sharpened. A good planer is forged into thin steel, thin and shiny. The bottom iron of the blade is dark gray, and the combination of the blade and the blade is very firm. Note: the bottom steel of inferior blade-dark in color or all shiny, both of which are not easy to grind.

(2) Type of hand planer

Manual planing includes ordinary planing and special planing. Commonly used planers are divided into medium and coarse planers, slender planers and thin and short planers. Special plane is a plane used to make special process requirements, including axial plane, line plane and so on. Axial planing includes iron handle planing, round bottom axial planing, biaxial planing, internal circular planing, external circular planing, etc. The line planer includes notch planer, groove planer, concave line planer, round line planer, single line planer, etc.

1, medium and long planer: used for general processing, workpieces with rough surface and general process requirements.

2. Ultra-thin planer: used for finishing, stitching and panel polishing with high technological requirements.

3. Rough and short planing: it is often used to plane the rough surface of wood.

4. Thin and short planing: it is often used for planing wood surfaces with high technical requirements.

(C) the use of hand planer

1, adjustment of planing edge

When installing the planer, first match the planer with the back iron, control the distance between the two cutting edges, and then insert it into the planer. The cutting edge is close to the bottom of the planer, add wedge wood, press it down slightly, pinch the left hand in the left corner of the bottom of the planer, pinch the wedge wood, cover the iron planer with the thumb, and correct the cutting edge with a hammer to expose the cutting groove. How much the cutting edge is exposed is directly proportional to the amount of planing, with more rough planing and less fine planing. Check the exposure of the planer. You can pick it up with your left hand, with the bottom up and one eye looking back, so that you can detect it. If the exposed part is not suitable, you can tap the upper end of the planer. If you show too much, you need to go back, just tap the tail of the plane. If one corner of the cutting edge protrudes, just tap the upper side of the planing edge at the same angle.

2. Planning points

When pushing the planer, the left and right index fingers stretch forward to press the planer body, the thumb presses the back of the planer blade, and the other fingers and palms hold the handle tightly. Planing body should be flat, and both hands should exert force evenly. When pushing the plane forward, push your thumb hard and press your forefinger slightly. When pushed to the front, the pressure will gradually decrease until there is no pressure. When returning, gently lift the back of the planer by hand to prevent the cutting edge from dragging and grinding on the wood surface, which is easy to dull. When planing long material, the left foot is in front and the right foot is in the back.

Before planing the long material, we should first look at whether the planed surface is the inner material or the outer material. Generally, the inner material is cleaner and the texture is clear than the outer material. If it is an inner wood, it should be planed from the root to the treetop, while the outer wood should be planed from the treetop to the root. It is more labor-saving to plan along the direction of wood grain. Otherwise, it is easy to choke, rough and laborious.

When planing, the bottom of the plane should be close to the surface of the wood. First of all, don't tilt the nose. When planing to the bottom, don't let the plane head be low (commonly known as kowtow). Otherwise, the middle part of the planed wood surface will be uneven, which is a common problem for beginners and must be corrected.

3. Aircraft repair

(1) Polishing of planer: The planer has been used for a long time, especially after planing hardwood and wood saving, it is easy to become dull or broken and needs polishing.

When grinding the planer, the right hand squeezes the upper end of the planer, and the left index finger and middle finger press the planer, so that the inclined plane of the planer clings to the grindstone and pushes it back and forth in the grindstone. Water frequently when grinding, and wash off the mud on the grindstone in time; Don't always grind in one place to keep the grindstone flat. Do not change the included angle between the planer and the grindstone to ensure that the plane of the planer is straight. After grinding, the blade front looks like a very thin black line (not a white line), and the cutting edge is black and blue. After smoothing the inclined plane of the planer, slightly grind the two corners of the planer on the grindstone, and then turn the planer over and lay it flat on the grindstone for two or three times to grind off the curl of the blade.

For planers with many defects, you can first use a rough grindstone and then grind it on a fine grindstone. General planing blades can only be ground with fine grindstones or medium-fine grindstones.

(2) Maintenance of planer: When tapping the planer, tap the tail of the machine lightly, and don't knock it indiscriminately or knock the wedge too tightly to avoid damaging the planer. After using the planer, the bottom should be up, and don't throw it around. If it is not used for a long time, the planer should be taken back. When using, don't touch the cutting edge with your fingers or just try to see if it is sharp. Always check whether the planer is straight and the bottom surface is smooth. If there is any problem, repair it in time.

Four, wooden file and its use

Reasonable selection of file has great influence on ensuring processing quality, improving working efficiency and prolonging the service life of file. Coarse-toothed wood file: coarse-toothed file has large tooth pitch and deep teeth, and is not easy to be blocked. It is suitable for rough machining (that is, large machining allowance, low precision grade and surface quality requirements) and cork file to improve efficiency; Fine-toothed wood file: It is suitable for machining hard materials and is often used for finishing to ensure the accuracy of machined parts.

The filing direction of the file should be perpendicular to the wood grain or at a certain angle. Because the teeth of the file are arranged forward, that is, when the file is pushed forward, it is in the file (working) state, and when the file is retracted, it is in the non-file (non-working) state. Therefore, when pushing the file, you should press down hard to complete the file, but you should avoid shaking up and down, and don't use force when filing back to avoid blunt teeth.

Correctly mastering archives is helpful to improve the quality of archives. Holding method of wooden file: the center of the right hand is facing the end of the file handle, the thumb is placed at the top of the file handle, and the other four fingers are bent under the file handle, so hold the file handle with the thumb. The left hand can have various postures according to the size and strength of the file.

Precautions for use:

A wooden file can't be used to file metal materials, nor can it be used as a crowbar or to knock a workpiece. When placing the wooden file, don't expose the wooden file out of the workbench to prevent the file from hurting your feet; Nor can the file be stacked with the file or the file with the measuring tool.

Five, hand chisel and its use

Hand chisel is the main tool of wood structure combination in traditional woodworking technology, which is used for drilling, hollowing out, planing and shoveling.

(1) Type of chisel

Chisels usually have the following types:

1, flat chisel: also known as plate chisel, the chisel edge is flat, which is used to chisel square holes. Many specifications.

2. Round chisel: There are two types: inner round chisel and outer round chisel. The chisel edge is circular arc, which is used to chisel round holes or circular arc shapes. Many specifications.

3. Oblique chisel: The chisel edge is inclined and used for chamfering or grooving.

The trousers are holes for the handle of the trousers, which should be forged firmly, neatly, smoothly and without cracks. This can ensure the service life of the chisel. Knife body should be neat and thick, with good rigidity and good heat treatment, which is the same as the requirement of planing. The chisel iron ring should be smooth, slightly narrow but not too wide, and the chisel handle should be round and smooth.

The newly bought chisel needs a chisel and a chisel. The chisel handle is made of hardwood, with a general length of 130mm and a slightly thicker thickness or the same as the chisel pants.

When installing, first cut the square wood with the length of 150mm with an axe at the hole where trousers are cut, level it with an iron handle to make it smooth, and then install it firmly at the bottom. Turn the other end upside down. According to the chiseled iron ring, use an iron handle plane to cut or smooth it. Pay attention to the installation of the chiseled iron ring with a certain inclination and proper tightness. The chisel must be tightly sleeved, and the end of the wood that grows after being tightly sleeved can be sawed flat with a hand saw and then riveted with a hammer.

Chisels, in traditional crafts, are made of beef tendon or hemp rope. Later, the iron ring forged by the blacksmith was used as a chisel. Now you can use an iron pipe with a diameter of about φ20mm to cut a circle with a 4mm thick hacksaw, then polish it neatly and smoothly with a steel file, and then use it on the chisel handle.

(2) the use of chisel

Before drilling (also called drilling, drilling), ink lines should be drawn. Wood should be placed on a mat or bench, with the drilled hole facing upward. People can sit on the wood. If the wood is short, you can fix it with your feet. When drilling, hold the chisel handle tightly with your left hand, and place the chisel edge near the horizontal line near your side (about 3-5 mm away from the horizontal line), and the chisel edge is inclined outward. The chisel should be vertical. Hit the chisel top with an axe or hammer so that the chisel edge enters the wood vertically. At this time, the wood fiber is cut off, then the chisel is pulled out, and the chisel is moved forward and hit obliquely to remove the sawdust from the hole. In the future, we will chisel away the sawdust repeatedly. When we chisel near another line, we should turn the chisel upside down and put it vertically to remove the sawdust. When the hole is cut to half the thickness of the wood, the front and rear walls should be cut again, but two horizontal lines should be left on the wood instead of chiseling. When drilling the whole eye (drilling through the hole), first cut the back to half depth, turn the wood over and cut it from the front, so that there will be no tear around the eye.

(3) Repair of chisel

The sharpening method of chisel and planer is basically the same. However, due to the long chisel handle, special attention should be paid to pushing and pulling back and forth in parallel, with even force and correct posture. Never go up and down once to make the blade surface arc. The grinding edge should be sharp, the back should be straight, the surface should be clean and bright, and there should be no convex edges and circles.

Six, the hammer and its use

Woodworkers usually use claw hammers as percussion tools, and they can also be used to pull nails. Nails are usually hammered into wood.

Seven, wood sandpaper and its use

Sandpaper. Paper can be divided into dry sandpaper, water sandpaper and emery cloth. Dry sandpaper is used to polish wooden parts, water sandpaper is used to polish objects with water, and emery cloth is mostly used to polish metal parts and wooden structures. The mesh number of sandpaper used in each process has technical requirements.

In order to get a smooth and flat machined surface, sandpaper can be wrapped on a flat wooden block (or other plane) and polished along the grain, and the force should be uniform first and then light, and appropriate sandpaper should be selected for polishing. Usually use coarse sandpaper first, then use fine sandpaper. When the sandpaper is wet and soft, you can bake it on the fire before using it.