Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional festivals - What material is the Mongolian headdress made of?
What material is the Mongolian headdress made of?
Mongols are a nation that loves beauty. They beautify some daily necessities and make them an indispensable part of clothing. Gorgeous Mongolian headdress is decorated with gold, silver and jewels. Obviously, this has something to do with Mongolian life customs. In addition to the natural environment, religious beliefs and other factors, there are also factors that show national character and self-esteem. Mongolians have been nomadic since ancient times, and their natural environment, production and lifestyle have created their pursuit of spiritual life and material life. In modern times, this way of life still occupies their lives. For this reason, herders convert their main wealth into gold and silver jewelry and wear it on their bodies for preservation and migration. In Han culture, accessories exist as ornaments, but in Mongolian culture, especially for women, it is more appropriate to describe them as all dresses. They like to decorate themselves with jewels and regard headdress as a symbol of wealth and beauty. Most Mongolians live in mountainous areas, mainly in animal husbandry. Adapting to this life, headdress has also formed a natural and simple style. Besides decorative function, it is also a symbol of culture.
Mongolian women's headdress was formed between tribes under certain historical conditions and natural environment, and its shape was natural and simple. According to relevant historical records, in the Bronze Age, there was a headdress making process in the Mongolian Plateau. Bronze ornaments such as earrings, earrings and headdresses found in cultural relics can illustrate this point, indicating that people's imagination and aesthetics reached a certain height in this period. From the artifacts unearthed by Xiongnu and Xianbei nomads, it can be seen that most headdresses are made of gold, silver, mussels, jade, crystal, agate, metal and ochre. Its structure and shape are similar to the headdresses of women in Ordos and Chahar areas in modern times, and the whole decorative pattern shows the life feelings and hobbies of nomadic people. In the Yuan Dynasty, the development of folk handicrafts was more progressive. Most women's headdresses are big, heavy and beautiful, wearing big earrings and big gem necklaces. Gem types, craft shapes and patterns are most fully reflected in women's headdresses, and the degree of luxury can be said to be rare in history. Nowadays, most of the female headdresses handed down by the people are the remains of the Qing Dynasty. Because the Qing government carried out the flag system in Mongolia, the economic situation, cultural concepts and living customs among tribes became increasingly obvious, and at the same time, it promoted the rapid formation of tribal clothing culture. The headdress of this period is more slender, complex and exquisite than before. Or elegant, or simple and dignified, or exquisite and beautiful, or simple and generous, showing a unique headwear type. A well-dressed Mongolian woman's headdress has three or four kilograms, and the heaviest one has more than ten kilograms. These headdresses spread among the people are not only simple decorations, but also cultural carriers rooted in Mongolian social life. They not only explain the profound connotation of Mongolian folk culture, but also witness the beauty of national handicrafts.
Because Mongolian people live in compact communities in our region, there are also many provinces and regions in China, and the headdresses are rich in variety and have their own characteristics. Different regions, different identities, different ages and headdresses have different combinations. Even the same tribe will be slightly different due to different regions. Some tribes also divide headdresses for girls, brides and married women, and some areas also pay attention to wearing them. There are dozens of ornaments combined with headdress, such as hairpin, hairpin, square, step shake, auspicious seat, earrings, bead chains and various pendant rings, silver chains, decorative earrings, gold and silver collars and other ornaments, which can be described as beaded curtains hanging down and dazzling. Such as Ordos, Turkut, Heshuo, Urad, Gurkha, Durbert, Hu Ba, Chahar, Buryat, Ujumuqin, Horqin, etc. There are dozens of headdress structures, such as stone bead chain pendant, plate claw, hairpin combination, hat braid sleeve, bead chain braid sleeve combination, forehead hoop Hou Lian combination, etc. This process often uses techniques such as beating, weaving, carving, inlaying and carving. Decorative patterns are mostly flowers, cordyceps, intestines and auspicious patterns, which are exquisite and exquisite. Ordos, Urad, Hu Ba and Horqin are the most representative, which can be said to be the top products in headdresses.
The headdress left over from the Qing Dynasty is extremely exquisite. At that time, a large number of materials such as gold and silver, coral, agate, pine otolith, jade, amber, jade, pearls and so on were used for elaborate production, and the appearance characteristics changed greatly, and the production technology was also different. Most headdresses are mainly red, and Mongolians especially like red coral and turquoise, which is related to national beliefs. Because of its pure color, red coral is listed as one of the three organic gems alongside pearls and amber. It is a mascot for offering sacrifices to the Buddha, representing noble power, and is regarded as an auspicious and happy thing by Mongols, also known as "Ruibao". It can drive away evil spirits, symbolizes good luck and wealth, and is a symbol of happiness and eternity. Pine ear stones are not only colorful, but also said to be a gift from heaven. Therefore, folk costumes and accessories are often decorated with it. Silver symbolizes sacredness and is highly respected by Mongols.
Ordos is one of the ancient tribes in Mongolia, which has a profound accumulation of costume culture. Headdress is known as the best and the "crown of headdress". Silver chains, silver bells and flower patches are intertwined, which consumes a lot of silver. They are inlaid with rows of red corals. They are gorgeous in appearance, exquisite in craftsmanship, and have surpassed other tribes in size and weight. They are the most gorgeous decorations for Ordos girls when they get married. There are many styles of headwear in Ordos, and each county is slightly different, up to a dozen. Whether there is a back screen or not, there is a big back screen or a small back screen, and the small back screen hangs on the shoulder. There are tens of thousands of coral beads on the big back screen, strung together one by one and arranged in an orderly way. Hanging on the back, long ears hanging on the crotch, flowing with people walking, looking like a flowing waterfall from a distance. There are also headdresses with long and short pendants on both sides of the cheeks. The production process is very complicated, some are light and heavy, some are gorgeous and some are simple. Women in Ordos wear such expensive ornaments, which is particularly conspicuous. According to local customs, girls should wear headdresses when they get married, regardless of wealth. Usually, good headwear should be prepared in the folk, and the price is quite expensive. So from the weight of headdress, we can see the wealth of a family. In the past, women in ordinary families wore headdresses, but little silver was used, and the coral beads inlaid were also very small. Some use red material instead of coral, weighing three or four kilograms and worth two or three hundred silver dollars. When a rich woman gets married, she should wear a headdress weighing about ten catties and worth tens of thousands of silver dollars. More expensive headdresses are often exchanged for good horses and flocks of cattle and sheep. Whether it is expensive or cheap, headdress is a necessary ornament for women when they get married. Ordos headdress consists of hanging and headdress. Lotus drop is a braided hair ornament hanging on the left and right braided hair on the chest. It is made of cloth and cotton wool, embroidered with various patterns, inlaid with silver ornaments and coral beads. There is also a folklore about the formation of the combined hammer. During Genghis Khan's period, Mongolian ministries fought with each other, and the winner tied the captured women's braids on the wooden edge to prevent them from escaping, which later evolved into today's continuous blowing. Ordos headdress consists of forehead hoop, back screen, cheek vertical spike, forehead spike and so on. The forehead hoop is generally about ten centimeters high, with one to three rows of coral beads on the top and bottom, a large piece of red coral embedded in the middle of the flower ginza, and turquoise embedded in the grid. The flowing spikes made of silver beads on the forehead spread out in a herringbone shape according to the eyebrows. The back screen is a big ornament, wide at the top and narrow at the bottom, covered with neatly arranged red coral beads. There is a flower ginza in the middle of the top and bottom, with several red coral turquoise beads embedded. The second half hangs behind the ear and is 3 inches long. The craft is like a back screen, covered with coral and turquoise beads and decorated with round or square silver. Hanging tassels on both sides of cheeks are mixed tassels of silver chain, coral and turquoise beads, which are symmetrical left and right, with several or more than a dozen, reaching under the shoulders, with silver bells hanging at the end, which jingle when walking. Large circle silver earrings for decoration, most of which are hung on pendants on both sides of cheeks, the big ones weigh about several hundred grams, and some have as many as four on each side. Generally, before wearing a headdress, the hair is tied in the hairpin, and then a dome hat embroidered with dragon and phoenix patterns is put on, and colorful headscarves are tied on the hat. According to local customs, some people only wear headdresses instead of hats.
According to the custom of Urad tribe, when a girl gets married, she must have a distribution ceremony, then dress up and put a headdress on the bride. You should also wear an otter skin dome hat on the headdress, with a hat knot at the top and two embroidered ribbons hanging down. The whole set of headdress consists of forehead hoop, pendant, pendant, bow, forehead tassel and hairpin. Both the forehead hoop and the Hou Lian are made of hollowed-out ginza with the same size, and the silver piece is engraved with auspicious patterns. The lower forehead is connected by a pendant chain inlaid with 20 coral beads, and then the 10 pendant chain made of silver, coral and green pine beads on both sides of the cheek is sleeved on the forehead hoop, and the pendant chain is longer than the waist. There is a diamond-shaped silver forehead above the spunlace, and the top is surrounded by large turquoise and coral. Urad headdress can be divided when worn. Married women generally only wear forehead hoops, and only wear full headdresses on holidays. Some customs are based on age. The older you get, the less accessories you wear. In contrast, women's headdresses in the deep desert and Shuote are much more elegant. It consists of a pair of black hair covers, two coral beads, a silver hairpin and an auspicious seat on the forehead. The hair cover is about 1 10 cm long and is sewn with blue satin or plain flannel. The upper and lower ends are embroidered with various flower patterns such as plum blossom, lotus flower and peony. When you wear it, you should comb your hair on your head, put the braid into the hair cover and hang it down to your waist along the temple. The hair cover is strung into the vest from the armpit, revealing the 20 cm long hair cover trim at the hem of the vest. Then connect the top of the hair cover with a pair of large coral beads, and then string them together with silver hairpin. The forehead is fixed with auspicious seats, and the Ginza is symmetrically inlaid with nine jadeites and red corals. After wearing a headdress, you can wear a hat or not according to the changes of the season. In winter, the groundhog wears a top hat with a knot and red, green and yellow ribbons hanging on it. Wear a round hat in the spring and autumn, which is dome-shaped, with a 3-inch decorative edge at the mouth and red or pink flowers nailed to the left. The headdress of Tulhut women is relatively simple. Married women wear double braids, put the braids in a hair cover, and put a triangular silver edge on the top of the hair cover, and then wear a Taoerqike hat with a "fire" pattern on the front and auspicious patterns on both sides. The girl tied a braid to tie her hair. Mongolian Muslims are a group with a population of only about 1500. Their headdress is unique. The base of the headdress is a silver longevity brain disk or a gold-plated longevity brain disk with three red coral beads in the middle and on both sides. There are tassels hanging on both sides of the cheek, 3 on each side, 9 beads in each string, the sixth from top to bottom is jade or turquoise beads, and the rest are red coral beads. Large earrings are hung on the silver ring, and the combed two braids are put into a black satin-stitched hair cover and hung on the back of the head. A pair of hair covers are connected by five silver buckles, decorated with French francs, and fixed on the hair roots with two large coral beads. When wearing a headdress, wrap your head in a black scarf first. After wearing the headdress, string the ends of the headdress behind the braid with silver clips, which has a sense of elegance.
Wuzhumuqin is an ancient tribe in Xilin Gol grassland. Women's headdress has a three-dimensional shape, which is mainly composed of claw-shaped hairpin, silver hollow forehead hoop, forehead spike, hanging spike and Hou Lian. Among them, tassels are the most striking. It has a silver butterfly decorated with coral at the top and a silver bat and a lucky knot with a silver ring at the bottom. There are filigree hollowed-out silver ornaments on both sides of the hairpin. Frontal ears are made of coral and pearls and are vertical. Long ears with drooping temples are made of coral, turquoise and silver. The hair band wears a hat with a vertical eaves and an auspicious knot at the top. Chahar headdress is light and delicate, with several gold-plated flower seats embedded in the middle of the hoop. Coral and turquoise beads are inlaid, and silver ornaments on both sides are connected with flowing spikes. Behind the headband is a crescent-shaped sculpture, which is connected with a mesh Hou Lian woven with coral and turquoise beads. Curtains are shoulder-length to add luster to the headdress. Women's headdresses in Hu Ba completely retain the traditional features of this tribe. The headdress consists of a forehead hoop and angular silver ornaments. The silver headband is full of flowers, with several corals embedded in the front and three small hollowed-out silver bells behind it, with horn-shaped silver ornaments on both sides. It is shaped by the cut flower process, and the silver piece is flexible and distinct. The whole headdress is fan-shaped, the angular edge is inlaid with carved silver edges, coral and turquoise beads are embedded in the silver pieces, grass patterns are engraved on the back, four silver tassels are hung on each side, and the hat is decorated with red tassels, which retains the style of ancient nobles.
Compared with other tribal headdresses, the style of bridal headdresses is extremely simple. Only red coral is embedded in the forehead hoop, and carved silver rings are hung on both sides, which are connected with the silver box ornaments on the chest, which is exquisite and gorgeous. Compared with other tribes, the headdress of women in Horqin tribe living in Horqin grassland is different, mainly reflected in the collocation of hairpin and hairpin. The headband is decorated with four rows of coral beads and the forehead is inlaid with rectangular turquoise. When wearing it, the headband is first tied from the forehead to the back of the head. Married women like to wear clothes and tie a bun. Hairpins with different shapes are inserted into the hair, and the patterns are exquisitely carved and decorated with various flowers, which are exquisite and elegant, generous and beautiful, and have high artistic appreciation value. Looking at these exquisite headdresses, people have to admire the superb craftsmanship of the Mongols.
The style of Mongolian women's headdress is gradually formed after a hundred years. It is a concentrated display of Mongolian history and culture, natural environment, national psychology and lifestyle. It not only bears the strong national feelings of the Mongolian people, but also combines extraordinary imagination and wise design ideas.
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