Who can tell me about the textile process?

Overview of textile finishing process: 1. Finishing technology of textiles;

Boiling, bleaching, dyeing) →, printing) → and post-treatment.

These four processes are all basic processes, and the processes are different according to different products.

1, scouring and bleaching process

(1) cotton scouring and bleaching process:

Singeing-→ desizing-→ bleaching-→ mercerizing singeing: Because cotton is short fiber, there is short fluff on the surface of the product. In order to make the fabric beautiful and convenient for post-treatment, singeing is needed first.

Desizing: When cotton yarn is used as warp yarn, there is more friction with the machine, and the friction between cotton yarns is easy to generate static electricity, so sizing should be carried out before weaving. After weaving, the pulp will harden, and it will turn yellow and moldy after a long time. Therefore, it is necessary to desize the pulp first to ensure the smooth progress of the printing and dyeing process and soft feel in the future.

The first two steps are mainly training processes, aiming at removing impurities, oil stains and cottonseed hulls. Additives such as oil essence can also be added during degreasing.

Bleaching: rinse the fabric clean to make the color white. This is a bleaching process.

Mercerizing treatment: make the fabric shine better and feel softer.

A. The process of ordinary cotton cloth and polyester cotton cloth is basically the same (woven cloth): singeing → desizing → bleaching.

Higher mercerizing treatment is needed. Bleached cloth is usually called this white cloth. B. Process of common cotton cloth and polyester cotton cloth (knitted cloth): alkali shrinkage → scouring → bleaching.

Alkaline shrinkage: because the knitting thread is not sized when knitting, it is loose and tight after alkali shrinkage. Smooth the fabric surface by balancing the tension.

Scouring: similar to desizing process, it mainly removes oil stains and cottonseed hulls.

Bleaching: rinse the fabric clean.

C corduroy process: the reason is that one yarn is wound on another yarn to form a loop, and then the loop is cut to form velvet.

Technology: alkali rolling → velvet cutting → desizing → drying → brush pile → singeing → scouring → bleaching.

The purpose of alkali rolling is to make the fabric shrink more tightly; The purpose of cashmere cutting is to make suede smooth; The purpose of brush pile is also to smooth suede and remove the unevenness after cutting; The purpose of singeing is also to eliminate unevenness.

D the technology of polyester cotton cloth is the same as that of ordinary cotton cloth.

E, flannel: mainly blankets, underwear, sheets for children and the elderly. Use a roller similar to a mace to rotate at high speed on the carpet surface and pull out the fibers, so that the pulled suede is not very neat.

(2) Wool (woolen cloth) technology: wool washing → carbonization → bleaching.

Wool washing: Because wool is animal fiber, impurities (dirt, grease, sweat, impurities, etc.) should be washed away. ) on its surface.

Carbonization: further remove impurities and dirt. If it is not clean after washing, it will be further cleaned by acid carbonization.

Bleaching: rinse the fabric clean.

(3) Working procedure of silk: degumming → bleaching or whitening (whitening with whitening additives)

(4) polyester cloth:

① filament: alkali deweighting → bleaching (same as silk process)

② Short fiber: singeing → scouring → bleaching (the process is the same as cotton).

Tentering and setting: tentering increases dimensional stability; Meet the design requirements; The surface is flat.

2, dyeing process

The principle of (1) dyeing

A adsorption: fiber is a kind of polymer, which is rich in ions and combines with the impurities contained in the dye to make the fiber adsorb the dye.

B infiltration: there are gaps in the fiber. After high temperature and high pressure, the dye is pressed or infiltrated into the molecular gap to make it colored.

C Adhesion: There is no factor of affinity dye in fiber molecules, so an adhesive is added to make the dye adhere to the fiber.

(2) Methods:

Fiber dyeing-color spinning (adding color to spinning, such as snowflake yarn and fancy yarn)

Yarn dyeing-yarn-dyed (yarn-dyed fabric)

Fabric Dyeing-Coloring (piece dyeing)

(3), dyes and textiles

① Direct dyes-cotton, hemp, wool, silk and viscose (normal temperature dyeing)

Features: the chromatography is the most complete, the price is the lowest, the fastness is the worst, and the method is the simplest.

Among them, formaldehyde is used as combustion improver.

Fabrics dyed with direct dyes generally need to strengthen colorants to stabilize color fastness.

(2) Reactive dyes-The reactive groups in dyes are combined with those in cotton, hemp, silk, wool and viscose fiber.

Features: bright color, good levelness and fastness, but expensive.

③ Disperse dyes-special dyes for polyester.

The molecule of dye is as small as possible, which can penetrate into it. At the same time, high temperature and high pressure are used to promote dye penetration. Therefore, the color fastness is high.

④ Cationic dyes:

The special dye for acrylic fiber is negative ion when spinning, and the cation in the dye is used to attract color.

B polyester can be dyed with cationic dyes and negative ions at room temperature. It is cationic dyeable polyester (CDP).

⑤ Acid dyes: dyed wool and nylon. Usually, fabrics are dyed under acidic/neutral conditions. PH value has a great influence on it.

For example, how to dye T/C dark cloth?

Dye polyester with disperse dyes first, then cotton with direct dyes, and then evenly dye the two colors. If chromatic aberration is intentionally needed, flattening is not necessary.

Such as light color, you can dye only one raw material, or you can dye polyester or cotton with different dyes.

If the color fastness is high, dye polyester; If the requirements are low, just dye cotton.

3. Printing process

(1) Print by device:

Flat screen printing: also known as manual stamping, also known as screen printing. High-grade fabric silk is widely used.

B rotary screen printing

C drum printing

D transfer printing: the dye on the paper sublimates to the cloth at high temperature and high pressure to form a pattern. Curtain fabrics are mostly transfer printing.

(2) Classification by method:

A dye printing: dyeing with active genes in direct dyes and reactive dyes.

B pigment printing: adding auxiliaries to the dye to combine the dye with the cloth (there is no gene for the affinity between cloth and dye in the dye).

C resist printing (dyeing): high-grade fabrics require high colors, so resist printing should be adopted to avoid color cross-color.

D discharge printing: after the fabric is dyed, other colors need to be printed in some places, so the colors of raw materials should be pulled out and printed in other colors to prevent the colors from offsetting each other.

E burnt-out printing: the yarn at the edge of printing is burned with strong alkali to form velvet pattern.

F. Gold (silver) powder printing: printing on fabric with gold (silver) powder. In fact, it also belongs to pigment printing.

H transfer printing: the dye on the paper sublimates to the cloth at high temperature and high pressure to form a pattern.

I spray (liquid) printing: consistent with the principle of color printer.

4, finishing

1) General finishing:

A handle finishing: ① the handle is hard and stiff. A large number of cotton and linen.

② Soft feel: Softening agent and water washing can be added.

B stereotypes: ① tentering.

(2) Pre-shrinking: shrink the cotton cloth in advance to make the size more stable in the future.

C Appearance finishing: ① Calendering (calendering) the luster of the fabric, and the fabric surface will become hard after calendering.

(2) embossing is rolled with a pressure bar.

③ Whitening agent.

2) Special treatment: the method to realize special treatment: add the corresponding additives before solidification, or coat the corresponding paint with a coating machine.

A waterproof treatment: coating a layer of waterproof material/paint on the fabric with a coating machine; The other is a waterproof assistant before tentering.

B flame retardant treatment: the effect achieved: there is no open flame, and cigarette butts will automatically go out when thrown into a certain area.

C anti-fouling and anti-oil treatment; The principle is the same as waterproof, and the surface is coated with a corresponding substance.

D mildewproof and antibacterial treatment: it can be coated or treated with ceramic powder to achieve the effect of anti-enzyme and antibacterial.

E UV protection: UV protection is used in real silk to prevent the protein fiber of real silk from being damaged and yellow. Other products are UV-resistant in the sun. Terminology: ultraviolet cutting

F infrared treatment: including infrared prevention and absorption to achieve different effects.

Anti-static treatment: disperse and concentrate static electricity to avoid sparks.

Other special treatments include: fragrance treatment, medicinal flavor (efficacy) treatment, nutrition treatment, radiation protection treatment, resin treatment (stiffness of cotton fabric and wrinkle resistance of silk), washable and wear-resistant treatment, reflective treatment, luminous treatment, velvet treatment, pilling treatment and so on.