Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional festivals - Evolution of knitting

Evolution of knitting

Knitting is developed from the ancient netting technology. During the Renaissance, knitwear in Florence, Italy was very famous. During the Tudor dynasty in England, the court set up a special workshop to knit clothes for the nobles. 1509, W. Li Faming of England introduced a hand-operated knitting machine, which made knitting a popular family handicraft all over the world.

According to the Book of the Later Han Dynasty, tassels made of colored wool appeared in China in the Han Dynasty and were used as decorations for chariots and horses. The sacrificial clothes of the emperors in the Song Dynasty were all decorated with tassels. The lower edge of women's cloud shoulders in Ming and Qing dynasties was decorated with colored tassels, and the crowns and hats of officials in Qing dynasty were also decorated with tassels. Knitting with a rod-shaped or circular needle as a tool. Rod needles are made of bamboo, metal, plastic and other materials, and there are two kinds: one is pointed at both ends, and the four needles are a group; One is pointed at one end and round at the other, and two branches are a group. A round needle is a smooth nylon rope connecting two short needles, which is circular when knitting. The thickness specifications of bar needles and loop needles are graded by numbers. The smaller the size, the thicker the needle. The effect of knitting varies with the thickness of the needle.

There are two forms of flat knitting. One is to weave two needles back and forth to form a sheet-like fabric, which is called flat weaving. Generally, it is used to weave pieces of clothes and then sew clothes. The other is the circular knitting of tubular fabric formed by four or more comb needles and circular needles, which is called cylinder knitting, or wheel knitting for short. You can knit hats, gloves, socks and pullovers.

The basic skills of knitting needles are: holding a needle in each hand, pulling the thread with the little finger of the right hand and hanging the thread with the index finger of the right hand. Insert the right needle into the threading hole on the left needle, then wrap the thread around the right needle and pick it out, and the left needle plays a matching role.

There are 29 kinds of knitting methods for horizontal stripes, among which there are 6 basic knitting methods: ① raising method, also known as raising method. This is the first process of knitting. There are many ways to start, some of which are directly knotted with wool on the stick needle to start; Some use crochet to help the needle start; Some start with auxiliary lines. ② Lower needle, also called positive needle. When knitting, the right needle crosses under the left needle. ③ Upper needle, also called reverse needle. When knitting, the right needle crosses the left needle. 4 needles, also known as needles. Used to expand the width of fabric when knitting. Needle adding methods include flat needle addition, perforated addition and non-perforated addition. (5) needle shrinkage, also known as needle shrinkage. Used to reduce the width of the fabric when knitting. There are several ways to reduce needles, such as merging needles, pulling needles, and reducing needles with flat needles. 6 convergent method, also known as convergent method. This is the way to finish knitting. There are needle method, needle method, edge method and so on. There are more than 2000 kinds of knitting patterns. These patterns are divided into geometric patterns and animal and plant patterns according to their shapes; Divided into solid flowers and hollow flowers according to texture; According to color, it can be divided into monochromatic flowers and multicolored flowers.

Stripe knitting is mainly in Shanghai. Clothing knitted with needles has the characteristics of thick texture and strong elasticity, and is becoming increasingly fashionable. There are pullovers, cardigans, coats, vests, scarves, gloves, socks and hats.

Children's sweaters knitted with horizontal needles are knitted with crochet as the main tool and flower forks and chrysanthemum needles as the auxiliary tools. Crochet is made of metal, bamboo and other materials, and the front end is conical with barbs. The thickness of crochet is indicated by numbers. The larger the number, the thinner the needle. Bamboo crochet is thick and mainly used for knitting wool; Metal crochet is thin and is mainly used for lace weaving. The flower fork is made of metal and consists of a straight bar and a right angle bar. There are screws at the intersection of the two rods, and the width can be adjusted to form various patterns when weaving. Chrysanthemum needles are made of metal and round, with 12 needles around them. The length of the needle can be extended and contracted to make a chrysanthemum pattern.

There are three forms of crochet: ① plain crochet. Reciprocating knitting is carried out on both sides of the knitted fabric, with a row of hooks, and the fabric is reversed once. Used for knitting skirts and clothes. ② tubular hook method. Continuous knitting and circular knitting to form tubular fabrics. Mainly used for knitting clothes, gloves, socks, hats, etc. (3) coil hook method. Hook it into a circle with a needle in the middle. Used for knitting hats and circular decorative fabrics.

The basic skills of crochet knitting: use the little finger of the left hand to control the tightness of the thread, hold one end of the thread with the thumb of the left hand, and hold the crochet needle in the right hand to do knitting on the thread. There are about 30 kinds of stitches, among which there are five basic stitches: ① Knitting stitch. Also known as locking needle. This is the most important injection. Hook fabric is shaped like a braid and is used as the starting point of crochet. ② The needle is short. Hooking method of lifting knitting needle upward on hooked knitting fabric. Used for knitting foundation. ③ long needle. On crochet, raise the knitting needle upward by 3 stitches. Used for knitting foundation. 4 dog needle. On the edge of the hooked braid or fabric, the braid needle and the short needle are combined to hook out the tooth shape. Mainly used to decorate the edge of fabric. ⑤ jujube needles. Stretch the thread on a row of knitting needles and hook the jujube shape. This is a small pattern. Mostly used for the decoration of baby clothes. There are more than 3000 crochet patterns.

Crocheting is mainly carried out in Shanghai, Shandong, Jiangsu, Yanbian, Jilin and other places. At first, it was lace knitting, and the products were mostly small pieces, such as tea tray cushions, sofa armrests, pillowcases and so on. Shanghai knitters crochet fashion with soft texture, cool air and strong decoration. There are shawls, cardigans, sleeveless tops, short skirts, baby clothes, hats, gloves, soft shoes, carpets, cushions, curtains and bedspreads. Korean people in Yanbian area of Jilin are good at crochet. Silk thread and cotton thread are made into colorful knots by hand without tools, and then made into tassels, handbags, tablecloths and other varieties. Among them, tassels are traditional varieties, including row whiskers and tassels. Rows of tassels are short and beard-like, and are mostly used for edge decoration of tablecloths, curtains, bedspreads, lampshades, scarves, curtains, flags and lanterns. The tassels are long and tied into a bundle, which is used for the decoration of scabbard handles and flagpoles.

Fringe can also be used in clothing, but only in some rural areas and ethnic minority areas has the tradition of decorating tassels. Rural women in Suzhou often wear silk tassels around their waists. The headscarves of Zhuang and Li women and the waists of Yao and Tujia women in southwest China often carry tassels. Tassels are widely used in traditional theatrical costumes and props. Take a stick needle with a hook at one end as a tool, knit forward like a stick needle when entering the needle, and hook the needle backward when withdrawing the needle. Popular in Japan and Hong Kong. There are three main categories: clothing, indoor furnishings and small items. Clothing includes coats, pullovers, cardigans, vests, dresses and short skirts. Indoor furnishings include tablecloths, bedspreads, pillowcases, lampshades, curtains, cushions and tea mats. Small items include hats, gloves, shawls, waist seals, scarves, socks, soft shoes, handbags and so on.

Our country takes flax or cotton cloth, which is a specialty of Heilongjiang, as the base cloth and is embroidered with cotton thread. Using traditional techniques such as wire drawing, freehand carving, knitting and splicing, exquisite bedspreads, pillowcases, embroidered cloth, tablecloths, napkins and various cushions are woven. In addition to the images of flowers, birds, fish and insects, there are endless geometric patterns, which are suitable for bedrooms, study rooms, restaurants, reception rooms and conference rooms.