Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional festivals - Cloth, origin, history?
Cloth, origin, history?
Editing the ancient method of dyeing cloth
The ancient Chinese method of dyeing cloth, "San Val", i.e., stranded val (tie-dyeing), waxed val (batik), and sandwiched val, has continued to the present day, and handmade cloths dyed in these three ways are still loved by people today. ¤ Yunnan stranded val According to historical records, the stranded val method of dyeing cloth was introduced in the Dali region during the Eastern Han Dynasty, and the Dali people called it pimple flower cloth or pimple flower. Before dyeing, the cloth is folded and tied, and then dipped into a color paste for dyeing. Since the color paste is made from plants such as Panax quinquefolium, it does not cause any harm to the skin. At present, this traditional technique is still preserved in Zhoucheng Village in Dali City, Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture, and in Dacang and Temple Street in Weishan Yi Hui Autonomous County. Walking along the streets and lanes of Dali, you can see colorful tie-dye decorations, as well as clothing, shoes and hats and other products, which add some beautiful colors to the picturesque plateau town. ¤ Guizhou Wax Val Wax val began in the Han Dynasty and flourished in the Tang Dynasty. This method of dyeing cloth involves drawing patterns on the cloth with liquid wax, then removing the wax after dyeing. The anti-dyeing agent of wax val is yellow wax (i.e. beeswax), which is the secretion of wax glands in the abdomen of bees and is insoluble in water, but can be melted when warmed. The dye used is bluegrass, which is abundant in Guizhou. Bluegrass leaves are put in a pit and fermented to become indigo, which can be used for dyeing. The traditional wax valerian process has been preserved in the minority areas of Guizhou, and it has become an indispensable ornament in the lives of minority women. Miao women in the area of Huangping, Chong'anjiang and Danzhai County have their clothes, umbrella covers and pillowcases made of batik; Miao women in the area of Anshun and Puding decorate their sleeves and lapels with batik patterns, and the batik straps on their children's backs are dyed with red, yellow and green, making it a bright and colorful multicolor batik. ¤Cangnan Sandwich Val The colors and patterns of sandwiched valerian cloth are printed with carved sandwiches: the cloth is fixed between two hollowed-out plates, color paste is injected into the hollowed-out areas, and the patterns appear on the cloth when the hollowed-out plates are unlocked. Compared with tie-dye and batik, the process of clip-printing is more complicated, so after a brief boom in the Tang Dynasty, this printing and dyeing process gradually disappeared in the Song Dynasty, until people in Cangnan, Zhejiang Province, once again found this way of dyeing cloth, known as the "living fossil". Yishan Town, Cangnan, eight Dai Village, the production of clip valerian cloth. Tang Dynasty court with silk, silk, brocade-based, Cangnan clip val can not be compared with the exquisite Tang Dynasty court clip val, but in the printing and dyeing process still retains the characteristics of traditional clip val printing and dyeing. In the early years, the southern part of Zhejiang Province used the clip valerian cloth as a necessity for the marriage of daughters and daughters-in-law. At present, Cangnan's several clip val inheritors are over half a hundred years old, the traditional dyeing process is in danger of being lost.
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