What are the new developments of weaving and dyeing embroidery in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties on the basis of Han Dynasty?

Silk weaving in Jin Dynasty is still famous for Shu brocade, and many suburban towns and villages have mastered the weaving skills of Shu brocade. Known as "hundred-room hedge house, harmonious loom, beautiful brocade, colorful river waves"?

Su Hui, the wife of Taodu, the secretariat of Qin Chuanyuan in the Sixteen Kingdoms period, was a famous dyeing and weaving craftsman. She wove palindrome verses with her own hands and called them "brocade", which made great achievements and was passed down as a much-told story?

Silk weaving in the Southern and Northern Dynasties generally developed in Jiangnan? Liu Song established a small government with stable order, and then it was managed by the Ministry of Dyeing and Weaving? Except the Shu brocade of Nanqi? Jingzhou? Yangzhou is also the main producing area? After the northern Tuoba established a small government, it was changed to a teacher, with a dyeing and weaving department and a subordinate Beijing workshop. Hedong? The production scale of Xindu Third Bureau is considerable?

Six Dynasties silk varieties? Mode? Colorful and impressive? After the Sixteen Kingdoms, Zhao had a brocade department in Yecheng. Is the brocade a success? Crawl? Daguang? Xiao Guangming? Daboshan? Little Boshan? Big dogwood? Little dogwood? Tai lung? Little horned dragon? Taojin? Striped brocade? Phoenix rosefinch brocade? Kim? Walnut brocade, and green ones? White? Yellow? Green? Purple? There are too many names, such as Shu Kun, countless names.

The physical objects unearthed in Minfeng, Turpan, Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, have been discovered in the Eastern Jin Dynasty? Northern Wei Dynasty? Brocade of Western Wei Dynasty? Hey? Hey? Silk and printed colored silk, and Jiangsu Tongshan? Silk unearthed in Changshu? Silk?

These tapestries There are two kinds of exquisite patterns, one is pure geometric patterns, and the other is to form geometric separation lines with regular wavy geometric patterns. Plant patterns, thus forming stylization?

Some patterns also absorbed many foreign factors, mostly plain colored warp-dyed brocade with weft flowers, thus producing Central Asia? West Asia pattern? For example, there are diamond brocade unearthed in Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region? Long Jin? Rui beast gold? Lion brocade? Honeysuckle diamond brocade? Beaded brocade honeysuckle? Two wild animals versus birds? Birds, animals and trees? Shujin? Jinhua sheng, etc?

Is the color bright red? Pink? Crimson? Yellow? Light yellow? Shallow chestnut? Violet blue? Emerald blue Light blue? Leaf green? White and so on?

Such as: honeysuckle diamond brocade, with crimson dots forming a diamond lattice, the diamond is inlaid with hypertrophy crimson cross flowers, with delicate scarlet honeysuckle in the flowers, stamens and homemade florets, forming a pattern with flowers in the flowers, which is simple, bright and not monotonous?

Are there lions in the King of Heaven? Elephant and Metaplasia in Buddhist Art? Lotus and other common patterns in Central Asia? Is checkered animal brocade yellow? Green? White? Blue? Red and five-color silk, in yellow? There are blue rhinoceros, red and white lions and blue and white elephants on the green stripes.

These colors, light and colorful, accurate jacquard and fine texture, reflect the characteristics of this period?

Qiduo is a monochrome twill warp with complex patterns, light and transparent texture and advanced weaving technology?

For example, the turtle back pattern unearthed in Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region? Yeah, bird pattern? Yeah, animal tattoos? Double dance mode? Lotus pattern? Is the collar expensive? There are bird patterns on the collar, etc. Among them, the double dance pattern is a group of birds outside the circle, and there is a double dance pattern at the gap between the four ellipses? The lotus pattern is an eight-petal lotus decorated at the junction of two elliptical arcs, which is novel and unique?

During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, blankets were widely used, and knitting technology was also improved? In the Northern and Southern Dynasties, the northwest ethnic groups knitted blankets in zigzag patterns, with bottom warp and bottom weft twill weaving?

This knitting method is convenient to use simple machinery instead of manual operation, thus increasing the output? In the northern dynasties, tent felt was more widely used?

Printing and dyeing also developed in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties? With the development of textile industry, printing and dyeing technology has made great progress. Wax valerian in the Jin Dynasty can dye 10 in many colors, and there are small clusters of patterns in the Eastern Dynasty. Butterfly valerian? Chimonanthus praecox Valeriana foetida or something? Purple and white spots were the popular colors at that time?

Among them, twist dyeing is a mechanical anti-dyeing method, which is most suitable for dyeing simple dots or stripes.

The method is to sew the fabric to be dyed with thread according to the pre-designed pattern, tighten it, and then tie it tightly with thread to form various summaries? After dipping, the stitches are removed, and the knotted part shows the pattern of insufficient coloring?

This pattern has a unique flavor, and the edge of each flower naturally forms a halo from deep to shallow due to the infiltration of dye solution? The ones with sparse patterns are called "deer fetal valerian" or "agate valerian"; Is the one with fine patterns called "roe" or "dragon"?

There are also relatively simple small cluster patterns, such as butterflies? Chimonanthus praecox and others? During the Eastern Jin Dynasty and the Southern and Northern Dynasties, fabrics dyed with valerian were mostly used for women's wear? At the end of the great poet Tao Qian's Looking for God, a story is described? A young woman

Wearing a "purple skirt" looks like a sika deer from a distance? Obviously, this woman is wearing a dress with a deer embryo pattern? Silk dyeing products include red and white twisted silk unearthed in Astana, Xinjiang? Is crimson and white twisted valerian a dyed fabric of Xiliang? Jiayu printed silk unearthed in Yutian is a dyed product in the Northern Wei Dynasty. Is it a big red place? Small white hexagonal flowers, clear and tidy? Lan Bing cracked twisted yarn unearthed in Minfeng, with sky blue and white ice cracks, forms a natural net pattern, which is flexible and charming?

Painted silk is hand-painted directly, inheriting the traditional development? The colored silk with bird and beast patterns found in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes is exquisite and elegant, with white patterns, arc division and parallel straight lines as the skeleton and birds and animals as the main patterns? As for wool fabrics, at that time, wax-proof printing and dyeing wool fabrics began to appear in northwest China? Li Chunhong's wool fabric with tied branches and flowers as the main pattern forms two continuous patterns. The gentle gesture of gentle extension? The flowers and leaves are deformed and colored without losing their natural flavor, with big carmine as the keynote and wide black lines against white? Green and white flowers and leaves make the whole picture harmonious and bright?

And purple flowers? Camel black checkered brown? Blue wax kitchen? Blue print twill brown, etc? Is there any blue printed cloth unearthed from other places for cotton cloth? Silk? Mao? Dyeing and printing of cotton fabric has been widely popular? During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, the embroidery technology was significantly improved? During the Three Kingdoms period, there were well-known weavers and embroiderers, and in Soochow, there were Mrs. Zhao, the king of Wu, who excelled in craftsmanship and was unparalleled. She can weave a dragon and phoenix brocade between her fingers with colored silk, which is full in size and square in size, and the size of the palace is "unique"; The square silk is embroidered with five rock landforms of various countries, numbered "Xian Jue"; And use glue wire as a light curtain, numbered "Silk Jue"? Were these three famous champions at that time?

Embroidery is used in Buddhist art, and Xiu Xiang has superb skills? Among them, Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes found "One Buddha and Two Bodhisattvas" in the Northern Wei Dynasty, embroidered with "Eleven Years of Taihe"? The words "King Yang Guang"? Embroidered on the yellow silk, the silk is hemp, with red? Yellow? Green? Purple? Isochromatic line?

Embroidered Buddha statues, male and female diners, women's high-crowned embroidered clothes, double-breasted gowns covered with peach-shaped "gold and silver patterns" and "rolling grass patterns" on the side? All the "vows" and spare lining are embroidered all over the floor with fine "lock embroidery stitch"?

The decorative pattern of the banner lace is "open embroidery", and the embroidered circle pattern overlaps with the turtle back pattern. There are four pieces of "honeysuckle pattern" overlapping with the turtle back pattern in the circle, and the circle is blue? White? Yellow and other colors, "honeysuckle" with yellow? Blue? Green is the same color, and "turtle back" is purple and white?

Form a variety of geometric patterns, smooth lines, needle potential changes with the running direction of various lines? Use two-color or three-color anti-blooming color matching to enhance the image texture effect? "One Buddha and Two Bodhisattvas" is an embroidery treasure in the Six Dynasties?

In short, weaving in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties? Dyeing? Performance? Embroidery, on the basis of Han dynasty, has made new development under the condition of national integration? From the design content to the form, color and craft skills, they all have their own characteristics of the times and new styles?

Painted silk