Mazu, strong and mellow

On the trip to Mazu, there is no wine and no joy. Wine, definitely sorghum. Introduce Gao Chen in the East, or Gao Chen in the August 8th Tunnel. The table is full of distiller's grains, red eel, fish noodles, fish balls and other delicacies. After everyone takes a seat, they pour Gao Chen, laughing and laughing. The food enters the mouth, and the wine enters the throat. Both the host and the guest are happy.

At first, I was a little nervous. After all, it's white wine, but it's sweet, not choking or spicy, and it's smooth.

Such a strong fragrance is just like the impression Mazu gave Luke.

Islander and A Bing brothers.

Mazu, who started from Mawei, Fuzhou, took only one and a half hours by boat, but kept people on both sides of the strait waiting for 50 years. During the period of confrontation, Mazu was in the front line, and complex military buildings, underground tunnels, ports and strongholds could be seen everywhere on the island. Although it has not been baptized by war, it is mysterious because of military control. Under this background, is the life of Mazu people as strong and harsh as sorghum?

With speculation, we boarded the Angie wheel and bumped all the way. As the passenger ship sailed into Mazu Fuao Port, the towering Fuqing Ridge in Antarctica came into view. The following is said to be Jianggong Memorial Park. The white staircase looks like a white dragon winding on a huge rock, which is very eye-catching.

After disembarking, passing through the customs, I took a quick look at the port, that is, I boarded the passenger ship called "Xiaobai" by the locals, went to Beigan and stayed in Tangqi Village.

This is really a small village with three streets, one horizontal and two vertical, all only 100 meters long, but there are homes, hotels, restaurants, post offices, convenience stores, bus stops, airports and even temples where local people worship. There is no name on the street, and the house number hanging on the door of every household directly reads "No". X Tangqi Village ". The permanent population of Beigan is about 1 1,000, and Tangqi Village is a concentrated gathering area of Beigan population. Because of the small population, it is already big news that there is a county magistrate candidate in the local area. Walking in the street, I saw a plaque hanging on the door of a family, which read a huge line-the only county magistrate candidate in Beigan.

Let's stop, and there are corporate signs and local image posters. The sign in the restaurant says "Are you hungry?" Black Beauty Drinks Shop wholesales betel nut cold drinks, and new motorcycles are mainly used to attract tourists. The snail painting activity was initiated by the local township office. In order to call on everyone to bask in the happiness of "I live slowly and eat slowly in the north", many posters were posted along the street. Walking in the street, the change of time and space, and the switch between traditional Chinese characters and simplified Chinese characters are all novel experiences.

Catch up with the opening of the first drink shop in Mazu Beigan Rest Pavilion. The concept of "simple sharing, happy extension" is very attractive. Special drinks lasting for three days only cost NT$ 1 yuan, which attracted islanders and Ge to queue up to buy.

The A Bing brothers are indeed a scene in the street, wearing camouflage uniforms and marching in the street. He should have come back from training. There are also ice brothers in twos and threes, just having a holiday and going out for leisure shopping. He often appears in 7- 1 1 convenience store and buys snacks, lunches, magazines and daily necessities. In Mazu, there is a saying that there are more soldiers than islanders. In the past few decades, the Mazu people have brought the A Bing brothers into the life track, but they turned a blind eye to it. We are different. Sitting in a convenience store and drinking an iced latte seems leisurely, but in fact, we can't help glancing at it from the corner of our eyes. After all, the A Bing brothers we saw in Taiwan Province movies are still alive. Finally, I started a conversation. I asked nothing more than how long I have been a soldier, where is my home, whether I want to go home and so on, but I was surprised to find a shy expression on A Bing's dark face when he answered. They are really young, and the acne on their faces has no intention of revealing the secret of their age.

We arrive at noon. Except for the newly opened rest pavilion, the whole pond is quiet and there are not many people on the street. We thought the local people were taking a lunch break, but we never thought that tranquility was the normal state of Tangqi. Even the owner of the hotel only showed up to welcome us when we arrived, and it was breakfast the next day. There will be no feeling of being left out, because the neat bed, complete toiletries and rich breakfast in the exquisite lunch box can all show the intention of the hotel owner. This is a newly renovated hotel, and there are several similar hotels in Tangqi, which are said to have only recently appeared. In the past two years, tourism has developed and tourists have increased. Some Mazu people have converted their houses into family hotels to receive tourists and increase their income, but the pace of life has not changed much.

Getting up at 5: 30 in the morning makes the street quieter. At the door of the store, the truck driver is unloading the goods, and the supply is seafood and vegetables sold in stalls. The smell came from the snack bar. The proprietress was baking scallion cakes, and two soldiers were waiting beside her. At the entrance of the village, I met an aunt pushing a small scooter, a bag of mussels that had just been fished out of the sea.

Walk ten meters from the entrance of the village to the seaside. On the delicate beach, the lines left by the waves are clear and neat, and the only ornament is the small sand pile left by crabs when they dig holes, which is dense and quite large. Further on, there is the sea. The sea is clear, the waves are gentle, and the sea breeze is blowing, with the coolness of early autumn. Looking back, it is a roundabout road. Highway guardrail cuts the sky and beach like a straight line. Sometimes a motorcycle passes by, only the rider's helmet and shoulders are exposed, which is very etude.

Fortunately, I met an old gentleman who came back from morning exercise and talked all the way back to the village. The old man grew up in Mazu, started a business in Taipei and now invests in the mainland. With a successful career and a grown-up child, he doesn't need to worry too much. He can often go back to Mazu to stay. There are mountains, seas, good air and neighbors I have known since childhood. The old man is very satisfied with his leisurely and convenient life. Get up early every day, take a walk in the nearby mountains, and then walk back along the seaside, which is comfortable and pleasant.

After a few days of hearing and seeing, I found that this is the real Mazu: quiet and soothing. Decades of closure have made this island full of legends. The people on the island are firm in appearance, but warm in heart, just like their favorite sorghum wine, which has a mellow aftertaste under the strong atmosphere.

Mazu battlefield sightseeing

Walking in Mazu, watchtowers, outposts, military hospitals, military guest houses and other buildings can be seen everywhere. At many intersections, there are signs of "military sites", which prohibit outsiders from entering at will. They hid in the training ground in the Woods, and from time to time came the sound of A Bing practicing. With the development of tourism, these islands full of military colors are gradually unveiled, and the local tourism department is also committed to creating original battlefield tours, allowing tourists to experience the battlefield customs, thus forming many battlefield sightseeing spots.

Beihai tunnel:

Mazu can be said to be the island with the densest military tunnels in the world. Beihai Tunnel is located on the iron coastline of Nangan Island. It is a well-shaped waterway, which goes deep into the mountainside and runs through the rock wall. It took 820 working days to finish that year. During the confrontation, this tunnel was used as an underground wharf. Now visitors can walk into this deep tunnel to have a look, and they can also take a canoe and experience boating in the unique tunnel.

War and Peace Memorial Park: The first museum park in Taiwan Province Province with the themes of "War and Peace" and "Moving and Remembering". Visitors shuttled through the former strongholds and experienced Mazu's nearly half-century military history and the real life of the military and civilians. The park is located in Dawo Mountain, Beigan Island. When the weather is clear, you can overlook the mainland coastline. Compared with the tense atmosphere of the opposite era, it is more interesting than the theme of "war and peace".

Sansan stronghold:

In the early battle deployment of Mazu Islands, the coastline was almost five steps and one post, ten steps and one whistle, and every headland was built into a solid military base. Sansan Shanzhai is located at the westernmost tip of Yinxi Island and has been opened to the public.

Goddess and gods

Mazu, named after Mazu. According to legend, Lin Mo Niang, a Putian woman, threw herself into the sea to save her father and drifted to Nangantang with his father's body. The local residents buried her and built a temple for her. In memory of Mazu's filial piety, Nangantang was renamed Mazu Island.

This is a legend. According to historical records, the earliest development of Mazu began in the Yuan Dynasty, and it was a place for mainland residents to rest and shelter from the wind when they went fishing in the sea. It was occupied by the Japanese in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, and it was not until the early Qing dynasty that Fuzhou fishermen moved here and gradually formed a blood village.

In the early days, Fuzhou fishermen arrived in Mazu and still made a living by fishing. In the struggle against the wind and waves, Mazu became the patron saint in their hearts, thus forming Mazu belief. Ma Gang Tian Hou Temple in Nangan Island has become a concentrated place of worship for many Mazu believers, attracting many tourists to visit. On the top of the hill behind the Tianhou Palace, a statue of Mazu, the tallest stone statue in the world, stands quietly, looking at the undulating sea from a distance, towering, solemn and quiet against the blue sky and green trees. It is said that this statue is 29.6 meters high, representing a total area of 29.6 square hectares of Mazu. This statue consists of 365 pieces of granite, which symbolizes 365 days of peace. It took ten years before and after the statue was put forward and successfully built, which shows the local people's devotion to the belief of Mazu in Tianhou.

Tianhou Palace also provides another patron saint of sunken ships-the White Horse King. A common god in the Mazu Islands? It is said that they are from Fuzhou, and residents of each island either build temples to worship or worship at home. The most popular one is Baima Wang Zun Temple in Shanlong Village, Jieshou Village, Nangan Island. Seven gods? * * * together, the temple is special.

During the trip to Mazu, I met countless temples, or went to worship the gods in the temples, enjoying the inner peace brought by the ceremony between kowtowing and looking up, or taking a cursory look at the flowers, enjoying flying over the eaves, playing with the Pearl of Shuanglong, and even having a garage, but I saw an unknown temple hidden in the grass by the roadside, so I didn't have time to look at the title of the idol. Before God, it is enough to have a heart, just like the grandmother I met in the quiet street of Tangqi Village at dawn that day. For decades, I got up early to worship, but I never thought about finding out who Xiao Wang was. And Xiao Wang, still sitting firmly in Wang Fu, is in the church across the street with Jesus, guarding the people on the island.

Just as gods bring spiritual food to people on the island, the popularity of gods in Mazu also comes from marine culture. In Mazu winery, we saw this explanation: "Mazu is located in the cape, and it is not easy to make a living. Most people live by fishing. They often make wine from glutinous rice, which is called "old wine". When the Arabian belly is white, fishermen will use old wine to boost their spirits, go fishing in the sea and come back tired. Dinner will be relaxed with old wine. "

In order to raise funds, Zhongxing Distillery was established and later renamed Mazu Distillery. Mazu Winery enjoys a high reputation for brewing according to ancient methods. Among them, the famous Daqu, sorghum and aged wine are one of the accompanying gifts that must be bought when going to Mazu. At that time, the Bayi Tunnel, which was used for military purposes, was warm in winter and cool in summer, with stable temperature and humidity, and became the best wine storage space in Mazu Winery. At the entrance of the tunnel, two rows of neat jars were welcomed by soldiers and were very imposing. Walking in the deep tunnel, there are many jars, the fragrance of wine is ethereal, and time and space travel, which is another experience.

This trip did not reach Dongyin Island, but there was no lack of charming taste of Dongyin wine at the dinner table. Dong Jiao, located at 26 degrees and 23 minutes north latitude, is the same latitude as the three famous wines in Chinese mainland, namely Kweichow Moutai, Sichuan Wuliangye and Sichuan LU ZHOU LAO JIAO CO.,LTD, and is the most suitable for brewing liquor. Because the temperature, humidity, and even beneficial bacteria that help fermentation are just right, and the water used is mountain spring water from granite geology rich in medical stone, these are the factors that lead to good wine in the East. Gao Chen introduced from the East, after a long period of low-temperature fermentation, is mellow but not spicy. Even if you have a hangover, you won't have a headache or dry mouth, so it enjoys a high reputation in Mazu, Taiwan Province Province and even Fuzhou.

Mazude wine-flavored food

Because Mazu is adjacent to Fuzhou, the food in the two places is very close. Many Fuzhou delicacies, such as fish balls and fried dumpling, can also be tasted in Mazu. Mazu people not only love drinking and are good at making wine, but also use wine as a dish to launch a unique wine-flavored food.

Steamed yellow croaker with old wine:

This is almost a dish that Mazu people must order for every meal. Fresh yellow croaker, add a little ginger, a little garlic and a little salt, and then pour in Mazu old wine and steam it. After serving, the old wine and fragrant fish floated in, refreshing and delicious. The taste of old wine is not spicy or choking, and it brews an elegant taste with delicious fish.

Eel with red vinasse:

Large eels caught from the sea are particularly elastic in meat and rich in subcutaneous fat. They are fried in red wine sauce and wrapped tightly in gravy. Pick up a piece of fish and gently bite it open. Under the crispy red distiller's grains, fresh eel gravy will flow out, and the aroma of wine will come and go, making people want to eat it one after another.

Chicken soup with red distiller's grains:

Red fermented grains chicken soup not only tastes mellow, but also warms the body and promotes blood circulation, which is suitable for tonic in winter. Locals will also add an egg and a little flour thread to the red distiller's grains chicken soup to help pregnant women sit on their confinement.

Distiller's grains fried rice:

Cut the distiller's grains into pieces and add fresh ingredients such as onion, egg and shrimp skin to stir-fry rice. Not only is the aroma overflowing, but the colorful ingredients such as red, yellow, green and white make people have an appetite.

Settle down and be reborn

Mazu is steep. The car is walking on the island, undulating along the terrain. When it encounters a steep slope, it feels that the whole car is standing up. The people in the car have no time to grab the handrail, and the car has already started downhill.

Therefore, we can only look around, we can't extend our sight to the front of the car, and we can't predict what scenery awaits us. When the car climbs to the top of the slope, our vision will be suddenly enlightened, and the island with blue sky and blue sea will come face to face, which will surprise people. The prestigious ancient settlement of Qinbi suddenly came.

Mazudo settlement. These prosperous villages are scattered in Mazu Islands. As the population moved out in large numbers, only broken stone houses, lighthouses and seagulls were left. Occasionally, tourists or homecoming people will come to stop and remember the glorious scenery of the fishing village. Qinbi Village is one of the most representative buildings in eastern Fujian. "A square Indian building with four slopes and five ridges, the outer wall is made of granite stones unique to the local area, or stacked or built. The craftsmanship is simple but honest, which outlines the resolute character of island people who are not afraid of harsh environment. " This is the text I saw in Walking in Taiwan Province Province before. In just a few words, the architectural style of Qin wall and the personality of Qin people are outlined, and the legend of pirate house is generally desirable.

Yes, this is the Qin wall! Surrounded by mountains and seas, stone houses are arranged in a ladder shape according to the mountain trend, and layers are scattered. In the meantime, the abrupt but interesting decorative slogan on the wall of the house, with the imprint of the era of confrontation, can not help but smile today. The granny washing the pot at home, the flower cat dozing on the roof and the little white dog wandering in the alley are all flowing and charming scenery set off by granite. There is a stone house, very old, with only one wall left. The door panel on the wall disappeared, and the door frame became a veritable picture frame. The picture in the frame is just the sparkling sea in the distance, motionless and staring, which is quite a bit of the vicissitudes of the Parthenon in the Acropolis of Athens.

Suddenly, colorful, people shine at the moment. This is the master's elaborate decoration. The transformation of stone houses into homestays and cafes is an act entrusted by the local government, which also gives a new look to the vicissitudes of Qinbi settlement. After visiting the North Pole, I sat in the parasol courtyard outside, listening to the sound of the waves, watching the sky and the sky, watching the sunset and the stars all over the sky, and writing the most romantic page for this trip.

Mazude personality minsu

Qinbi Mediterranean B&B:

The hotel is surrounded by mountains and seas, and the blue sky is connected with the vast seascape, giving people the illusion of being in the Mediterranean. The traditional stone house style in eastern Fujian, plus a piece of green grass in the side yard, combines modernity with classicism, and Chinese style does not lose European style. The hotel owner will not only personally greet the guests staying in the hotel at Beigan Wharf, but also tell tourists how to spend the best time in Beigan, help consult gull-watching boats or sea fishing boats, and provide Mazu-style Guang Qi cakes and coffee for breakfast, which is kind and intimate.

Address: No.54, Qinbi Village, Beigan Township

Tel: 0886- 836- 566 1 1

No.25, Qinbi Village:

As a traditional granite stone house, looking out from the elegant small window of the guest room, the Shi Zhuan in Qinbi settlement is beautiful, and with the design of skylight, you can wake up in the scattered sunshine in the morning and feel comfortable. There is an invincible sea view outside B&B, which is unpretentious but amazing everywhere.

Address: No.25, Qinbi Village, Beigan Township

Tel: 0886- 836- 55628

Niulan Su Min:

Niulan Su Min, with its stone house architecture, is favored by backpackers, not only because it is close to the pier and has convenient transportation, but also because its internal structure is full of artistic sense, and various books and works of art can be seen everywhere inside and outside the house. The host is hospitable and always communicates with the guests with the mentality of "making friends", which makes the backpackers feel particularly warm. At sunset, don't forget to have afternoon tea with friends on the second floor of the yard, while watching the sea view of Nangan and enjoying the afterglow of the sunset.

Address: Fuxing Village, Nangan Township 124

Tel: 0886- 952- 26078

Jinsha Cultural Village:

There are three buildings in this B&B * *. The appearance of the guest house in the ancient street is the traditional architectural style in eastern Fujian, the stone walls are stamped with granite, and the houses in Australia and China are wooden houses. After climbing the winding stone steps, you will find the Guan Hai Mountain House adjacent to other Jinsha stone houses. On the second floor of B&B, you will see the vast sea view of Mazu and the complete panorama of Jinsha settlement.

Address: No.71Jinsha Village, Nangan Township

Tel: 0886- 836-26 190