Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional festivals - Understand the origin of Beijing specialty cakes and snacks.
Understand the origin of Beijing specialty cakes and snacks.
Pasta:
Aiwowo, Zhajiang Noodles, wallet fire, snowballing, pea yellow, steamed dumplings, sesame bean curd, fried pimples, etc.
Hot pot category:
Stir-fried liver with bean sauce, stir-fried belly, stew and so on
Fried category:
Fried dough sticks, fried cakes, enema, inby, ginger fork, sugar ear, etc.
Drinks:
Sour plum soup, lotus seed porridge, etc.
Where can I eat authentic Beijing snacks?
Dong Hua Men Night Market
Sour, sweet, bitter, spicy and salty, eat whatever you want! Bean jelly, red sesame seed cake, lotus seed porridge, sour plum soup, red fruit cheese, almond tofu, mutton skewers, grilled lobster, grilled squid, fried grasshoppers, fried scorpions and fried silkworm chrysalis are numerous, complete and hygienic. From the New Dong 'an Market to Donghuamen Street, it is brightly lit and very lively.
Huguosi snack bar
Beijing snacks handed down from the temple fair "will eat" have been refined and refined, without the roughness of "being big, eating and full" in the past; Dunerbobo and jujube rolls are cute; Ginger fork and sugar ear are exquisite.
Jin Fang snacks
From the founding of the Republic of China to the present, snack bars include hemp pills, almond tea, Aiwowo, cream fried cakes, fried bumps and so on. Yuanxiao is the most famous, including hawthorn, green plum, hanging flowers, bean paste, assorted, cream, coconut and so on.
nine gate snacks
Jiumen was organized by Beijing Snack Association at the initiative of several famous time-honored brands in Qianmen Door Frame Hutong. There are many time-honored brands here, such as rice cake Yang, buttermilk Wei, sausage Chen, tripe-fried chicken, Ruibin House, Baishui Yangtou, Yueshengzhai and so on. ...
The famous snack street also includes:
Wangfujing snack street and Shichahai snack street (the original Qianmen snack was moved)
Nanlaishun's Beijing snacks, especially noodle tea, are very popular.
Long Fu Temple has had enema for quite a long time, and the enema tastes and tastes great.
Imitation meals in Beihai are authentic Beijing court snacks.
[Edit this paragraph] Beijing special snacks
1. Feng's tripe
Sausages are cooked and burned in a pot.
3. Fried liver in Tianxingju
4. Jin Xin Bean Juice /inby
5. Bai Kui Old White Water Sheep Head
6. candied haws/steamed dumplings from the fountain of youth.
7. Only a little wheat
8. Quanjude Roast Duck
9. Donglaishun instant-boiled mutton
10. Tianfu good sauce meat
1 1 Zhajiang Noodles
12. Long Fu Temple enema
Ten legendary traditional Beijing snacks 1
Yanjing bean juice
Bean juice is a special snack in Beijing, with sour taste. For it, it's just like the fried stinky tofu in Changsha Huogong Store. Generally, foreigners dare not touch it easily, but old Beijingers like to drink it, especially in the cold winter, with a dish of shredded pickles or eight-treasure pickles and two bowls of hot sweat, which can cure colds and stimulate appetite and have a unique flavor.
According to legend, bean juice is the earliest folk food in Liao country, with a history of 1000 years. The entry of bean juice into the palace began in the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty. It is said that Cixi lived in Xinjiekou, Beijing when she was a child. Because her family is poor, she often uses bean juice instead of vegetables. Later, she made the bean juice into a drink in the palace of the Qing Dynasty. Before liberation, vendors specializing in selling bean juice walked the streets or set up stalls in the market. There is a blue cloth around the front with a trademark made of white cloth on it. When they sold it, they only shouted: "juice, open the pot!" " However, this legacy is gone, and today's young people can't feel this atmosphere. ...
Earth enema
Among the snacks in Beijing, enema is cheap and absolutely popular. This kind of pure Beijing flavor and real local products can be seen everywhere in fairs and temple fairs for many years, especially in the night market in Beijing, and it is indispensable to sing the main theme. You see, in the stall selling enema, the big shovel clanged beside the big iron pot, which attracted adults and children to buy two plates to taste. To tell the truth, eating enema doesn't care about relieving hunger, just appreciating its taste and indulging in it.
Among the traditional snacks in Beijing, the flavor is the most peculiar. Tradition will never change, no matter who it is, it will still dip the fried enema in garlic juice; It's better to eat with small bamboo sticks. It's not fun if anyone uses chopsticks. According to the old people, there was an enema shop on both sides of the back door bridge outside Di 'anmen, which was very famous in Beijing. The older one in Qiaodong is called Fuxingju. After the closure in the 1930s, only the Heyizhai family in Qiaoxi was left. At the beginning, this Heyizhai was also famous for operating enemas. However, it is not what it used to be. At that time, Heyizhai had already transformed into a shop that operated all kinds of snacks, and the frontispiece was antique.
Enema is to pour starch and monascus into pig intestines. However, this kind of quality-oriented thing is not delicious now. What you usually see and eat at temple fairs and night markets is just to make a wooden stick with starch and red yeast, cut it into pieces and fry it in a pot. Of course, the taste is not as good as the real enema, but because it is fried and the price is relatively cheap, there are still many people eating it. Even people addicted to enema simply buy a few pieces and go home to fry and enjoy themselves. This is also a way to eat.
Flavor cheese
There is a bamboo poem in Dumen Zayong in the Qing Dynasty, which is vividly described as: "Walking in the street and drinking nectar to moisten your throat. I feel like I'm going to swallow fat, and my heart is as refreshing as autumn. " This little poem introduces frosted cheese just right. As a Beijing-style snack, cheese was originally a Mongolian food in history. Even if cheese entered Beijing later, it was only limited to court snacks in the Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, and it didn't spread to the people until later.
At that time, there was a "Fengshenggong" cheese shop in Dongan Market. The owner's surname is He, a native of Zhenghuangqi, Manchu. For generations, this authentic flag bearer has been living on imperial grain, but by the time of the Revolution of 1911, a "die-hard old rice tree" like him was no longer good. However, he Zhao Zi is a man of heart. He managed to set up a dairy farm in a rural area by himself, and asked a chef who had worked in the royal restaurant of Qing Palace for the skills of making cheese. So, I rented a shop in Dongan market to sell cheese. At that time, there were no cold drinks shops on the street, let alone ice cream and popsicles. In this way, cheese was placed alone in Beijing. Every summer, most of the ladies and gentlemen in the palace, as well as young men and women in the Qing Dynasty, become customers of "sealing the saints".
At this point, some people may ask, you can't eat fried dough sticks like that every day, but how is this cheese made? Making cheese takes some time. First, boil fresh milk, let it cool, add white sugar, filter it with a fine basket, add a proper amount of rice wine, stir it evenly, put it in a bowl, put it in wooden barrels in layers, and bake it at the bottom of the barrel with fire, which is called "grilled cheese". Wait until it is solidified, then cool and ice it. In this way, cheese is made. You see, eating cheese costs money!
Since there was a "Fengshenggong" cheese shop in Dong 'an Market, there have been cheese shops specializing in cheese making in Beijing, which wholesale cheese to vendors who are shouldering the burden in the street. On the evening of summer, in the hutongs of old Beijing, you can often hear the shouts of selling cheese: "Hey, hey, drink cheese ..."
deep-fried dough stick
In the evening, as the crowd walked into the snack night market, the fragrance came to the nose. There are many kinds of Beijing snacks here. If you look closely along the night market, the production methods can be roughly divided into frying, turning, steaming, boiling, brewing, frying, baking and frying. When I say fry, I don't mean cooking. Lu Chuan Huai Yue is not engaged in snacks. If you want to eat cooking, you must go to a restaurant. The "fried" here refers to fried pimples.
Speaking of it, fried bumps are also a famous food in Beijing. According to legend, in the early years of the Republic of China, there was a home-cooked restaurant called Guangfuge in Liulichang outside Heping Gate. The owner is an old lady named Mu who lives alone with her daughter and sells noodles every day. It is said that this kind of fried pimple was invented unintentionally by mother and daughter. Once, when the noodles could not be sold, Lady Jia had an idea. She rolled the noodles into batter, cut them into small bumps, boiled them in boiling water, and kept them in the shade to prevent fermentation. That evening, they fried dinner with cooked dough bumps, cut vegetables and shredded pork. Unexpectedly, it's refreshing and chewy, and it tastes particularly good. The girl said to her mother, "simply, we'll sell this tomorrow, called fried pimples." This sentence will be done, and the unintentional thing will become famous. After playing here, the Zhajiang Noodles they sell is well-known in Beijing, and there is an endless stream of new and old customers. And this way of eating was very popular at that time, because it was cheap and delicious, and it did have a special taste. Later, many celebrities also came here and joined the team that ate fried pimples. Because of their great fame, some busybodies nicknamed Guangfu Pavilion opened by Mu's mother and daughter as "Mu's Village" and called Mu's girl "Mu". You see, this sounds interesting.
Tanghuoshao
Old Beijingers all know that Tongzhou has three treasures: sugar fried in Dashunzhai, catfish in Xiao Lou and bean curd in Wantong. Nowadays, there are few burned catfish, and Wantong's sauce tofu has long been gone. Although the sugar fire in Dashunzhai has experienced war, it is still the original flavor of raw materials. The entrance is crisp, soft, sweet and delicious, not sticky or greasy. 1960, Indian President Nehru visited China, and he wanted to eat the sugar fire of Dashunzhai. When he arrived, he bought more than 20 kilograms. In such a big China, Nehru has a special liking for this ugly candy fire, which shows that this snack has become famous all over the world.
According to legend, during the Chongzhen period of the Ming Dynasty, a Hui man named Liu Dashun came to Tongzhou, an ancient town east of Beijing today, along the North-South Grand Canal in a grain ship from Nanjing. Seeing that Tongzhou Town is a good place to settle down, Liu Dashun opened a small shop called Dashunzhai, which specializes in making and selling sugar cooking fires. From the Qing Dynasty to the Qianlong period, Dashunzhai sugar fire was well known. In order to maintain the traditional characteristics, Dashunzhai's sugar fire is very particular about the selection of materials. Over the years, chefs have insisted on using pure standard flour to make noodles, Tongzhou sesame oil for oil, Tianjin osmanthus for osmanthus, and indispensable brown sugar and sesame sauce, all of which are purchased in one place. The reason why this century-old shop is enduring is that it is genuine and wins the trust of the people.
Jingmen tripe traditional snacks 2
In autumn, Beijingers will naturally think of instant-boiled mutton, and even more elegant celebrities want to eat fried tripe. Although it is a snack, it appeals to both refined and popular tastes. Almost everyone has a good impression on it. The dish called Du Ren San Dan (namely Bai Ye) and a pot of old wine. Several boys sat around the table, chatting with each other. Absolutely delicious.
Dong 'an Market was opened more than 80 years ago. At that time, there was a man named Wang, who was the first to put a pot-bellied stall in the market. This is the pot-bellied king who has been passed down to this day. At that time, the whole family often went into battle as soon as they were polished. First, they buy fresh beef and mutton tripe from the "soup pot" outside Chaoyangmen, and then take it to the well platform to wash it over and over again, especially in winter, when the water is bitterly cold and their hands are red and swollen with cold. Finally, we have to walk five or six miles to send the washed stomachs of cattle and sheep to Dongan market for sale. In this way, the popularity of the king of tripe in Beijing is increasing day by day, and there are more and more repeat customers. In the 1940s, the shop moved out of the market. After that, there was Sidshun and the king of fried belly. Today, the old shop is still prosperous and full of customers.
When it comes to tripe, we have to put it into practice in the end. How to eat it is also very particular, not only the choice of main ingredients, but also the knife edge and heat. Whether it's slicing or dicing, cutting or shredding, even in terms of width and thickness, the owner who often eats it is also very concerned, not to mention eating the ingredients that explode. Not only is it prepared in advance in the store, but some customers require special preparation according to their own tastes when they enter the door. It is said that Mr. Ma, a famous Beijing opera veteran, especially likes to eat fried tripe, but his favorite ingredient is sesame sauce mixed with vinegar, and he doesn't eat anything else. Although it is simple, the old man enjoys it.
Flavor fried liver
At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, the catering industry in Beijing was also very prosperous. Restaurants served big houses and small restaurants attracted customers, not to mention teahouses, teahouses, two meat shops and big jars all over Beijing. It is true to say "eat in Beijing". Whenever it comes to fried liver with Beijing flavor snacks, Beijingers will think of "Tianxingju" in the mouth of fresh fish outside Qianmen. Speaking of which, you may not know. Just opposite Tianxingju, there used to be a shop with a longer history. This is the old shop "Huixianju". At that time, Huixianju attracted customers from all over the world with its unique flavor, making it famous in Beijing. Even the people in the pear garden near Guanghelou Opera Garden are frequent visitors to Huixianju.
Speaking of this snack, it is said that during the Tongzhi period of the Qing Dynasty, a Beijinger named Liu Yongkui rented a shop front in the fresh fish mouth, so he opened a couple's inn and gave it a very elegant name-Huixianju, specializing in yellow wine and side dishes. After arriving in Gengzi, this small shop was run by their descendants Liu and three brothers.
At the beginning, the Liu brothers operated fried liver and followed the cooking technology of boiling, frying and strong cooking. Fried liver is delicious, cheap and famous. It is not only welcomed by Beijing people, but also attracted by the smell of fried liver.
Speaking of fried liver, what snack is it? In the early years, someone once described it like this: "Boil fat intestines with thick sauce and stir-fry the liver with sound." It turns out that this fried liver is not fried. It is just stewed pork intestines, thickened with starch, added with a little water, and finally sprinkled with some mashed garlic to make this snack.
The Liu brothers are smart in business and sell in big bowls, which will definitely lose money; The price was set high, so they ordered a bowl of fried liver from the porcelain kiln for fear that they could not get a seat. This bowl has a big mouth and a sharp bottom. It looks like a trumpet. In fact, the capacity inside is not very large, so although each bowl only sells two copper coins, it is still profitable. Over time, this small bowl selling fried liver has become a climate, and it has become a kind of pay attention to eating fried liver. Even if I eat fried liver in a small shop in Beijing today, I still use a small bowl.
It is said that Empress Dowager Cixi suddenly wanted to try fried liver, but it doesn't matter if she tasted it. Although she won praise, she made it clear that it might be better to remove the heart and lungs. How dare Wang disobey his orders? Since then, old Beijingers have added another two-part allegorical saying-Beijing fried liver lacks heart and lungs.
Traditional steamed dumplings
Historically, there used to be a very ordinary small hotel in Qianmenwai Street. To say, there is no store name, but it became famous overnight because of the light of the emperor. This is "all in one place" for Chinese and foreign guests and tourists, specializing in steamed dumplings with Beijing flavor snacks. Speaking of steamed dumplings, we must first mention the origin of "all in one place".
In the seventeenth year of the twelfth lunar month, it is New Year's Eve in a blink of an eye. At this time in Beijing, ordinary people never went out when they were free. Therefore, all the shops closed early. In the dark, only the Li family hotel has dim lights and still opens the door to welcome guests to do business. At this time, three people came in outside the store, among them, the shopkeeper dressed like a scholar, and two servants took gauze lamps and took photos before and after. They were enthusiastically taken upstairs for a drink by the man. While drinking and eating vegetables, the host asked, "What's the name of this hotel?" The man said, "The shop is too small to have a name." Looking at the surrounding environment, the man sighed with emotion: "At this critical moment of the year, are you the only hotel in Kyoto that is not closed?" Just call it' all in one place'! "Who wants to, a few days later, suddenly one day, the palace sent more than a dozen eunuchs, and sent a plaque with the words' all in one place' to the angel lee hotel. Only then did everyone know that New Year's Eve was originally a private trip on a snowy night, and he visited the Li family shop.
This legendary story has been circulated in Du Yi for several generations for hundreds of years, from shopkeepers to waiters, from managers to waiters. This story may be just hearsay and romantic, but Du Yi's reputation is growing day by day. Diners come here, one is to see the tiger's head brand hanging in the store, and the other is to taste its traditional snack steamed dumplings.
In fact, steamed dumplings are made of flour and meat, and 18 is folded at the top, just like the blooming flowers at the top of wheat, so it is called steamed dumplings. In terms of production, it is steamed in a small cage, and its shape is very beautiful, like a lotus flower. It tastes thin and stuffed, delicious, fragrant but not greasy. When crabs were fat in autumn, steamed dumplings stuffed with crab meat were sold here. They were delicious.
North and South Barbecue
In Beijing, it is called "South Bay North Season", which refers to the "BBQ Bay" in Chengnan Xuannei Street and the "BBQ Season" in Houhai in history. These two restaurants mainly deal in barbecues. The difference is that beef is roasted in Nanwan and mutton is roasted in the northern season.
Historically, these two barbecue shops are century-old shops, and they both started to set up stalls along the street that year. Customers kick the bench and bake themselves. Later, business was booming, and this Beijing-style snack moved to an elegant room and became a gathering place for wealthy families and literati.
Before the Qing Dynasty, there were several palaces around Shichahai, such as Gongwangfu, Qingwangfu and Wang Fu, the god of wine. The barbecue season is famous, and those princes naturally become its customers. Like Pu Yi's father, Regent Wang, he wanted to eat Yoshiya's barbecue on the fire. However, the princes did not go to the store to eat, but waited at home. Ji's family is like a troupe rushing to a church meeting, so they have to prepare materials and bake cakes in person.
Just as the owner of the barbecue season is surnamed Ji, our barbecue bay is also named after the owner's surname Wan, which is roughly similar. At the beginning of the business, Wanjia began to sell barbecues along the street, and set up iron grates on the ground at any time and place, which were baked and eaten by customers themselves. The shopkeeper cut beef slices while collecting money. At that time, there was no till, and the money was just in the coat pocket. Later, Xuannei Street was formally paved. Because of the choice of meat essence, thin slices, loose fire and all the ingredients, the business of barbecue is booming, and many wealthy families are willing to enjoy barbecue here. It is said that cutting meat is a stunt of Wanjia. For many years, only the descendants of their own names, not outsiders. Of course, this is just an ancient custom. Nowadays, both Nanwan and Beiji have long been the common places for ordinary people.
Copper spout teapot
Anyone who has watched the TV series "The Big Teapot with Copper Mouth" will probably remember that the leading role played by Niu, an old actor in human arts, is to sell tea soup with a big teapot in his hand.
It's hard to say which dynasty and generation tea soup belongs to, probably. However, for many years, no matter which generation, this kind of tea soup always shows its talents in the temple fairs on holidays, attracting groups of adults and children to open their eyes in surprise. Look, there is a big shiny copper pot on the table, selling tea and soup. The spout, handle, top and bottom of the kettle are inlaid with patterns carved with brass, and a goldfish swims in the grass on both sides of the kettle body ... When the stove is burning, I see the boiling water in the kettle rolling and steaming. More interestingly, look at this master who sells tea and soup. His feet are apart, his arms are in a straight posture, he holds the bowl in one hand and pours water from the pot in the other. The mouth of the bowl was one or two feet away from the spout, and he saw steaming boiling water gushing out from the spout, just "smashing" it in the bowl, which was accurate and elegant. In fact, it really needs high skills to do it well. First of all, it must be done at once, and it must not be dragged into the bowl, otherwise the tea soup must be raw and the seller will lose money. Moreover, although the water is fierce, it must not be poured on your hands. Otherwise, your hands will be burned, your bowl will be smashed, and it is even more uneconomical to make money at a loss. Therefore, the masters who sell tea and soup have all practiced their unique skills. Don't look at all the movements, it only takes a few seconds, but it may take years to practice this skill well.
The main raw material of "Babao Tea Soup" is millet flour, supplemented by walnut kernel, peanut kernel, sesame and other fruit materials. There are eight kinds of causal materials, so it is also called "Babao tea soup". In old Beijing, there are also vendors selling along the street. A pair of burdens, one end is a cupboard for raw materials and porcelain bowls, and the other end is a high-mouthed brass pot on a small stove. The pot is three feet high, golden, clean and beautiful. Vendors are like this, and stores also use such copper pots to stand at the door of the store. From a distance, you can see a monster standing there. At that time, people were quite smart, which was equivalent to not spending money on advertising.
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