Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional festivals - Ancient Chinese women's clothing (by dynasty)

Ancient Chinese women's clothing (by dynasty)

1, from ancient times passed down the big lapel, right overlapping, cross collar, wide robe and big sleeves, Bo clothes wrapped with the kind (Qin and Han costumes as a representative), continued the Shang, Zhou (Spring and Autumn and Warring States), Qin, Han, the Three Kingdoms, the two Jin dynasty, North and South dynasty, Sui, Tang, Five Dynasties, Song, Yuan, Ming, and influenced Japan, Korea and other countries. The most common style of Japanese kimono is this one.

2, since the Sui and Tang dynasties began to prevail round neck shirt (worn by Tang Taizong Li Shimin) continued the Tang, Five Dynasties, Song, Yuan Dynasty, Ming, and influenced Japan, Korea and other countries. This type of clothing is commonly seen in the portraits of Emperor Taejo of Song and Emperor Taejo of Ming. To this day, the Emperor of Japan wears a variant of this hanbok for certain occasions. Note that this round-necked robe is also right-over-right and fastens with a small round button near the right shoulder.

Women's clothing was similar to men's in the early days, when they also wore deep clothes, but later on they were predominantly 襦裙.

The costumes of the Han dynasties differed somewhat in certain places, but the main part was the same. The basic style of the deep coat of the Western Han and the Han dress of the Ming Dynasty are the same, differing only in the minutiae.

During the Spring and Autumn and the Warring States periods, the costumes roughly followed those of the Shang Dynasty, with only slight changes. The style of clothes is slightly looser than the Shang Dynasty, there are two styles of sleeves, the collar general rectangular collar, no twisted buckle, generally in the waist belt, some on the belt is also hung with jade ornaments. At that time, there were two main types of belts: one made of silk fabric, called "big belt" or "Squire belt"; another belt made of leather, called "leather belt". At this time, the emergence of a deep train, compared with other clothing, in addition to the top and bottom of the garment connected to this feature, there is a clear difference, called "renewed obeisance hook edge". "Ovee" is the lapel, "renewed obeisance" is the lapel long, "hook edge" is to describe the style of the lapel. It changed the past clothing more in the hem slit tailoring method, the left lapel of the front and back piece of sewing, and the back piece of the lapel lengthening, lengthening the lapel to form a triangle, wear around to the back, and then tied with a belt.

The standard color of Qin clothing was black. However, the style was still large lapel with right overlapping collar. It was basically inherited from the Warring States period.

The men's clothing style in the Han Dynasty was roughly divided into two types: curved train and straight train. Curve train, that is, for the period of the Warring States period popular deep clothes, the Han Dynasty is still used, but mostly seen in the early Western Han Dynasty. In the Eastern Han Dynasty, men wearing a deep train were rare, and usually had a straight train, but it could not be used as a formal dress. During the Qin and Han Dynasties, not only were men allowed to wear a deep train, but it was also one of the most common types of women's clothing. This type of clothing was tight and narrow, long enough to traverse the ground, with a generally flared hemline, and the line did not reveal the feet. The sleeves are wide and narrow, and most of the cuffs are hemmed. The collar is very distinctive, usually with a cross collar, and the neckline is very low so as to reveal the inner garment. If you wear several pieces of clothing, each layer of the collar must be exposed to the outside, the most up to three or more layers, known as the "triple clothing". In addition, the Han Dynasty narrow-sleeved tightly wound lapel deep clothes. Clothes after several turns, around to the hips, and then tied with a silk belt, the clothes are also painted with beautiful and ornate patterns.

The straight train of the Han Dynasty was worn by both men and women. This kind of clothing as early as the Western Han Dynasty has appeared, but can not be used as a formal dress, the reason is that the ancient pants are no crotch, only two trouser legs set to the knee, with a belt tied at the waist. This crotchless pants to wear inside, if you do not use the coat to cover, the pants will be exposed, which at that time was considered disrespectful things, so the outside to wear a deep train. Later, as the dress became more and more complete, the form of pants was improved, and pants with a crotch (called "pants") appeared. Due to the improvement of the underwear, the curved train around the lapel coat has been redundant, so to the Eastern Han Dynasty, straight train gradually popularized, and replaced the deep coat.

Wei-Jin and Southern Dynasties period, men's clothing has the characteristics of the times, generally wear large-sleeved fluttering shirt. Until the period of the Southern Dynasties, such shirts were still preferred by men of all classes and became a momentary fashion.

Women's clothing in the Wei and Jin Dynasties inherited the legacy of the Qin and Han dynasties, and improved on the basis of tradition, generally wearing shirts, jackets and 襦, and wearing skirts underneath, most of the style is on the frugal under the abundant, part of the body of the garment is tight and fitted, with fat cuffs, and the skirt is a multi-folded tucked skirt, with the skirt length trailing on the ground and the hemline loose, so as to achieve the effect of handsome and dashing.

Tang Dynasty, officials in addition to wearing a round neck, narrow-sleeved robes, in some important occasions, such as ritual ceremonies still wear dress. The style of dress, more inherited from the Sui dynasty old system, head wearing conical cap or cage crown, wearing a lapel large-sleeved shirt, under a round garment, jade pendant group ribbon. 襦裙 was the main style of clothing for women in the Tang Dynasty. In the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women used small sleeves for their short jackets and wore long tight skirts with high waist ties, usually above the waist, some even tied under the armpits, and tied with ribbons, giving them a pretty and slender look. In the middle Tang period of the jacket than the early Tang of the broader, other than not much change.