Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional festivals - What are the characteristics of a dream of red mansions costume?
What are the characteristics of a dream of red mansions costume?
In A Dream of Red Mansions, color also plays an important role. From time to time, it appears in the description of characters' costumes, garden scenery, flowers, trees and daily necessities, and even shines brightly in the daily conversations of characters. Regrettably, however, compared with the numerous studies on the mystery, textual research and text of red, there are few studies on the color meaning of red, especially on the color of women's clothing in A Dream of Red Mansions.
Among the many colors, Cao Xueqin, the author of Red, keenly grasped two colors: red and green, as the color keynote of the book, and decorated the world of "a thousand red holes (crying)" and "Wan Yan sharing a cup (sadness)" with pink and green. Red, passionate, lively and bright, is the embodiment of the same color symbol of the daughters of Grand View Garden. For example, in the forty-ninth "Glass World Snow White and Plum Blossoms", the two sisters wore a orangutan felt or feather satin. Green is the color of green mountains and clear waters, symbolizing tranquility, peace and nature. Cao Xueqin gave this color to the heroine-"Princess Xiaoxiang" Lin Daiyu, and asked her to live in the Xiaoxiang Pavilion, which is "phoenix-tailed and slender". Its predecessor was a crimson pearl grass, which shed tears in the wind in the green screen window. Cao Xueqin likes these two colors very much. He not only gave them to his favorite heroes and heroines, but also painted these vivid and moving colors on the beautiful and dexterous maids in the Grand View Garden, tirelessly changing the collocation of red and green, which constantly used different shades of red and green, including pink, silver red, red and begonia red; Green is green, water green, jade green and so on.
Second, red and green-the color tone of A Dream of Red Mansions
Why did Cao Xueqin use so many red and green combinations? This is not only because of the traditional meaning represented by red and green, but also because red symbolizes the prosperity of Jiafu's "flowers with brocade, fire cooking oil"; Green symbolizes the increasingly bleak Jiafu, and finally falls to "a piece of white land is really clean". Jiang Kui, a poet in the Southern Song Dynasty, wrote a poem in "Partridge Sky" (a peerless beauty in Luo Jing): "When the red one smiles, the green one frowns. Who will share the spring with you?" Jiang Kui lived hundreds of years before the publication of Red, but with the poet's keen sense of touch and clever mind, he unexpectedly grasped the essence of red and green, which is naturally consistent with Cao Xueqin's description. As Rodin said, "We appreciate the color of Titian not only because of its beautiful harmony, but also because of its significance: it is beautiful only because it can give us a rich concept of governing everything." [1] (p97) When we look at the colors in Cao Xueqin's works, we should not only be limited to the external visual beauty he described, but also understand and recognize the beauty extracted from the truth.
Cao Xueqin chose the contrast color of red and green as the color tone of red, and gave it a unique and personalized meaning with reference to the traditional social significance. Such as red, in traditional social habits, represents auspicious and festive. In Red, Cao Xueqin fills the surroundings of Jia Baoyu, the protagonist, with red-based color atmosphere and feelings. For example, the place where he lived as a child was called "Jiang Yunxuan", and he lived in the "Hongyi Garden" in the Grand View Garden. He is called "the flower Lord of Jiangdong" and "Hony Son", and he often wears red clothes. Jia Baoyu is the son of lord protector. Wearing red is very suitable for his identity, but also secretly placed his ardent hope of inheriting and revitalizing his family business. Another example is green, which is the color symbol of the heroine Lin Daiyu wearing red. There is a green atmosphere around her. For example, there is a word "Dai" in her name, which is turquoise ink used for thrush; Her nickname is "Princess Xiaoxiang" and she lives in Xiaoxiang Pavilion. The blue gauze on the window has "thousands of bamboo poles" and "uneven pine shadows and dark moss marks". Red and green are complementary colors, and the contrast between them is the biggest. But the author obviously wants to unify these two colors, and these two people coordinate with each other and place the author's good wishes for their love. The seventeenth time, he borrowed Baoyu's words and said, "Here are two plants, which mean red and green. If they are the same, they are not enough. " He also said, "The title' Red Fragrant Green Jade' is the best of both worlds." The two Jiaotang and the red fragrant green jade in Yihong Garden symbolize the harmony between Baodai and Daiyu. Even though Baoyu's title is "red fragrant green jade", red and green are self-evident, and the word "fragrant jade" has a special meaning. The nineteenth time, the author borrowed Baoyu's words, "but I didn't know that Master Yan's young lady was the real' Xiangyu'." It is clear to readers that Yu Xiang is Lin Daiyu. However, this beautiful wish was changed to "Hongyi Kuai Lv", and the word "Yu Xiang" was deleted because Yuan Fei was unhappy.
Third, the color configuration of women's clothing in A Dream of Red Mansions
Among the colors of women's clothes in A Dream of Red Mansions, red is the most mentioned, with more than 30 places, among which there are many names, such as scarlet, pink, silver, begonia, pomegranate, Yang Fei and so on. 10 explicitly mentions the word "green", and the word "green" is more. Green alone includes water green, lush green, willow green, flashing green, emerald, Song Hualv and so on. And green has different names such as red green, Buddha green and azurite. Besides red, green and cyan, there are some colors in the book. Such as rose purple, honey color, onion yellow, white, lotus root color, Qiu Xiangse, emerald color, moonlight white, Song Huase, sapphire blue, goose yellow, purple and so on. The rich color of red also reflects the development and progress of dyeing technology at that time. Li Dou recorded many dyeing varieties in the south of the Yangtze River, such as Huai 'an Red, ... Peach Red, Silver Red, Near Red, Pink, Meat Red and so on. ... purple is big purple, rose purple and eggplant purple. ... white with bleaching and moonlight. Yellow is light yellow, … apricot yellow, … Dan yellow, … goose yellow. ... green is red green, ... crow green, golden yellow, ... yuan green, ... he green, ... shrimp green, ... Mianyang green, ... Buddha head green, ... Tai Shiqing, ... Xiaogang green. Green includes official green, oil green, grape green, apple green, onion root green and Ying Ge green. Blue is tide blue, … pheasant blue, … emerald blue and … sparrow head blue. [2] (P30) It can be seen that there are many colors mentioned in Red, which also proves that the description of clothing colors in Red is also a record of the popularity of clothing colors in Ming and Qing Dynasties.
Cao Xueqin said when talking about painting theory in "Collection of Waste Art Studio, Clothes on Qili Lake": "When you paint the whole body with a little bright color, it will be dazzling." [3] (P44) And this theory is also applicable to the collocation of clothing colors. Cao Xueqin also borrowed the words of the characters in the book many times to illustrate his color theory and configuration techniques. For example, on the thirty-fifth time, I borrowed Yinger's silk to tease the color matching: "Yinger said,' The red one needs black silk to look good, otherwise the azurite one will not be able to hold down the color. Baoyu asked, "What does Song Huase deserve?" "Yinger said," Pine flowers with pink. " Baoyu said with a smile, "This is beauty. Elegance is a little delicate. "Yinger said,' I like green and yellow best.' "Such examples are too numerous to mention in" Red ".
In red, maids often wear red, green and red-green clothes. This bright two-color collocation appropriately reflects the author's creative intention: filling the whole world of the red chamber with pink, willow and green, setting off the most vivid and colorful background for Baodai's love life; Let the red color symbolizing Baoyu and the green color of Daiyu blend together to decorate the beautiful Grand View Garden. And red is the traditional so-called "positive color", which has its clothing color level restrictions on wearing and using. In "Red", most ladies and grandmothers wear big red, while maids wear red and green, but most of them are pink, silver red, begonia red and pomegranate red. Even if Aaron, who is qualified as a semi-master, goes home to visit relatives, he only dares to wear a "pink-and-white silver mouse jacket".
From the perspective of color matching, red-green matching is a complementary color contrast, which gives people the strongest visual stimulation. The mixed color law of chromatics also proves this point. In addition, the different ratios of color lightness and saturation should be considered in color configuration. For example, the costume in the 65th chapter of "You San Jie" is a set of distinctive costume collocation. "This is your third sister ... wearing only a red coat, ... deliberately revealing a lush green tube top, ... with green pants and red shoes, which is bright and dazzling." Bright red and big green are color contrasts with high saturation and lightness. Wearing it on You Sanjie highlights her unique style and posture, as well as her "frivolous and unrestrained" personality charm. On the fifty-eighth occasion, my little daughter Fang Guan was also dressed in red and green. "That official only wears a small cotton-padded jacket with red and green silk of begonia below." Begonia red is extremely delicate red, and its saturation is slightly lower than scarlet. Green silk trousers with scattered flowers are different from the wildness of You Sanjie, but they have their own lively and lovely little girl and charming life.
Cyan is blue with a green taste. However, red with blue is a contrasting color in colorimetry, which has a strong visual impact, but the effect is slightly weaker than that of complementary colors such as red with green. So in "Red", although the maids are all dressed in red and blue, they are not very dazzling visually. Most of them are wearing HongLing coats and green satin vests. Red is water red, silver red, begonia red and other colors. The upper body is a combination of red and blue, and skirts with different colors and patterns are attached below, which reveals chic from neatness and unity from difference.
Fourthly, the case analysis of women's clothing color in A Dream of Red Mansions.
Lin Daiyu
Clothing was described in red for three times, the first two were written by Cao Xueqin and the third was written by Gao E. According to our imagination, Lin Daiyu is a clever, witty and spotless fairy, and white seems to be in line with her character. Cao Xueqin boldly created a red image of Daiyu for us. Let her wear red makeup, chant peach blossoms, and even "blush really overwhelms peach blossoms" when writing poems, but this is the beauty of Cao Xueqin. "Ordinary people write dim colors, not bright colors", but Cao Xueqin is not ordinary people. He "takes the heart of heaven and earth as the center, and naturally he can write bleak and bright colors." [4] (P 132) Although the Daiyu in his works was driven by the wind and sword, it was still vivid and gorgeous. Isn't it just to show the great power of the tragedy of red that women who love red and dress red die with tears? Describing Lin Daiyu's trip to pear fragrance court for the first time, "Baoyu saw her wearing a red feather satin double-breasted coat outside, …" Red is the main color of Lin Daiyu's dress. Wearing red is not only influenced by the Jia family's custom of loving red, but also entrusted her with a beautiful wish, that is, to match Baoyu. As mentioned above, the main color of Baoyu is red and Daiyu is green; And "red and green collocation, the best of both worlds" is the wish of two people, so Baoyu's Tang planted two plants, and Daiyu was dressed in red, covered with an apricot quilt, and then pasted a silver-red yarn on the window.
The second time, I enjoyed the snow in Xue Lu Temple for the forty-ninth time. For Hongmei, "Daiyu put on little boots that pinch gold and dig clouds and red fragrant sheepskin, and covered a crane with red feathers and wrinkled white fox skin, which is a four-in-one wishful sash with green gold, flashing green and double rings." Red incense boots and flamingos continue the consistent style of Daiyu. Boots are made of sheepskin, and the word "red fragrance" is used to indicate its visual redness and olfactory fragrance. The "green-gold-flashing-green wishful tapestry" adds a touch of touching spring color to a red makeup, as if it were "a little green in a million red flowers", which not only highlights Dai Yu's taste in clothing, but also conforms to her love wish of "matching red and green". To sum up, the color application in A Dream of Red Mansions is extremely wonderful, and its color configuration is also unique. The beauty of red lies in the truth of its content. As Rodin said, "When a work of art or a literary work reflects the truth, expresses profound thoughts and arouses strong emotions, its style, color and sketch are obviously beautiful." [1] (p97) Understanding and understanding the color meaning and configuration of "red" can not only help us master more knowledge of color collocation, but also help us better grasp the theme of "red", that is, "Everything is silent in glory, laughter, bells ringing, eating colored jade ornaments. [7] (P202) To understand that the author painted this bleak dream with a pen full of bright and rich colors, "There is no way out, no revolutionary ideal, and there is a strong elegy tone. "
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