Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional festivals - Ancient dress characteristics

Ancient dress characteristics

What is the style of Han Chinese clothing? If we compare the Han people with European people, we will find that the two are different in many ways. For thousands of years, the general style of Han Chinese clothing has been mainly light and simple. Ancient Han robes can best reflect this style, the main feature of this robe is a wide robe with big sleeves, commendable clothing, although the shape is simple, but once worn to the body of people will be the same as each person, different looks, plasticity is very strong. Although we now can not see the prototype of this kind of clothing, but we can still be left from the Han Dynasty silk paintings and Wei, Jin, Sui and Tang dynasty in some of the character paintings in the glimpse of one of its appearance one of the two - the shape of a simple Han coat attached to different physical characters suddenly have a kind of vivid vitality, the lines of the soft and smooth, people The lines are soft and smooth, which makes people think of it. The simple and easy attire adds a natural charm to them. Robe fully embodies the Han nationality soft and quiet and comfortable and skillful, elegant and free of the national character, as well as plain and natural, subtle and euphemistic, elegant and fresh aesthetic taste. (1) Historicity The violent coercion of shaving hair and changing clothes has disappeared, and the Chinese dress tends to be revived. (2) Inheritance Inheritance means that the history of Hanfu is inherited. In this long period of time, the development of Hanfu history has been following the characteristics of being passed on from generation to generation and from generation to generation, which reflects the inheritance of the historical development of Hanfu. (3) Diversity and homogeneity Diversity and homogeneity refer to the diversity of hanbok styles and the homogeneity of hanbok types (or styles). As a thing with thousands of years of history, Hanbok has never been a style, and the rich and colorful styles such as "upper garment and lower garment", "deep garment", "襦裙" and so on reflect that Hanbok should have a long history of national costume. The colorful styles such as "top coat and bottom dress", "deep coat", "襦裙" and so on reflect the diversity as a kind of long-established national costume. Although Hanbok has always been rich in style, but the basic form (or style) of Hanbok "overlapping the right side of the collar, do not use buttons, but use the rope and belt knot" is the characteristics of the Hanbok is not inconvenient for thousands of years, which is the homogeneity of Hanbok. The unity of homogeneity and diversity is one of the major features of Hanbok. (4) Completeness Completeness refers to the completeness of the internal system of Hanbok. After thousands of years of development, Hanbok is already a kind of mature dress, which is not only rich in internal variety and exquisite craftsmanship, but also rich in a wide range of Hanbok accessories. (5) Compatibility Compatibility refers to the compatibility between Hanbok and traditional culture. Hanbok has been regarded as a symbol of authentic traditional culture to a large extent, and Hanbok itself embodies traditional culture everywhere, Hanbok and traditional culture are a harmonious family.

Classical cheongsam is mostly made of flat and straight lines, with a loose bodice, open on both sides, and a chest-waist circumference that is closer in proportion to the size of the bodice. Cheongsam of the Beijing school and the sea school, representing the art and culture of the two styles. Sea style is characterized by the absorption of Western art, new and flexible, with a strong commercial flavor; Beijing style is with the official style, appearing to be reserved and condensed. Art is a social ideology that reflects social life and expresses the author's thoughts and feelings through the creation of images. Cheongsam

Designers and the cheongsam evolved in the first half of the 20th century, and the basic features and elements of the cheongsam slowly stabilized. The cheongsam became a classic women's garment. The classic is relatively stable, while the fashion is ever-changing. However, fashion designers often look for inspiration from the treasure trove of classics, and the cheongsam is also one of the sources of inspiration for designers. The cheongsam is a traditional fashion for Chinese women that has emerged in modern times and is not a formal traditional national costume. It has had its vicissitudes in the past, but it also has a new and refreshing present. The cheongsam itself has a certain historical significance, coupled with a higher degree of appreciation, and thus has a certain collection value. These characteristics of the Republic of China cheongsam, which are consistent with the aesthetics of Western dress, did not come about by chance. At that time, Shanghai, a metropolis where Chinese and Western cultures mixed, was the birthplace of the best conditions. Now we may have been difficult to find the Republic of China cheongsam was born in Shanghai conclusive evidence, but we can still assert that the sea robe is a typical Republic of China cheongsam. If we are a little more bold, we can further assume that the modern cheongsam, or tongs meaning of the cheongsam, is the sea cheongsam. Because, in the general public's mind, the word cheongsam triggered by the association or imagery, is the 1930s and 1940s of the sea cheongsam. The modern cheongsam has entered the era of three-dimensional modeling, with the appearance of provincial roads on the piece of clothing, a more fitted waist and with Western-style sleeves, the length of the cheongsam's garment, the length of the sleeve is greatly shortened, and the waist is more and more fitted. The appearance of the modern cheongsam generally requires all or part of the following features: right-over-right placket or half-placket form, stand-up collar with a button, pendulum side slit, single piece of material, waist, sleeveless or short-sleeved and so on. The slit is only one of the many features of the cheongsam, not the only one, nor is it necessary.

Style

There are many styles of cheongsam, such as lapel, pipa lapel, slanting lapel, double lapel; collar has a high collar, low collar, collarless; cuffs have long sleeves, short sleeves, sleeveless; slit has a high slit, low slit; there are also a long cheongsam, a short cheongsam, a clip cheongsam, a single cheongsam and so on. Changes in cheongsam styles are mainly sleeve and lapel changes. Sleeve styles mainly include: wide sleeve, narrow sleeve, long sleeve, medium sleeve, short sleeve or sleeveless. Lapel styles are mainly round lapel, straight lapel, square lapel, pipa lapel, etc.: round lapel cheongsam gowns - lapel lines are round and smooth; straight lapel cheongsam gowns - full-bodied, round-faced women are suitable for this style, which can make the body appear slender; square lapel cheongsam gowns --The square-breasted cheongsam gown is a bold reform of the lapel, suitable for different face shapes. Pipa Lapel Cheongsam Gowns - In addition there are double round lapel cheongsam, double placket cheongsam and other styles.

Collar

General collar, penguin collar, Fengxian collar, no collar , teardrop collar, bamboo leaf collar, horseshoe collar

Materials

To make cheongsam there are fabric, silk, brocade, etc., and at present there are silk double-crepe, silk spinning, power spinning, Hang Luo and other silk fabrics.

Color

The common big red cheongsam, colorful and eye-catching, chic style, fully demonstrates the long history and culture of the Manchu nation, focusing on reflecting the Oriental women's subtle and elegant charm.

Patterns

Modern common cheongsam patterns for brocade satin, with traditional Chinese decorations such as double fish, rich flowers, plum blossoms, etc., as well as hand-painted cheongsam design with Chinese ink painting techniques to depict the floral pattern.

Buttons

Buttons on the cheongsam are disk buttons, which are made from thin strips of folded and sewn fabric known as "tabs". This is not the same as the modern buttons made of a whole piece of rigid material with holes. If the fabric is thin, it can be lined with cotton yarn. Tabs for decorative flower buttons are generally lined with wire for shaping.

Edit this section of the production process

One, cutting: (1) to determine the front and back of the clothing - the front of the clothing folded inside, will be painted on the reverse side of the powder line, light-colored clothing, do not use the darker color of the powder; (2) to determine the fold line of the clothing - the front and back of the center of the cheongsam did not have the same shape. -Because the center of the cheongsam front and back are not set up seams, so the row material can be folded on one side of the fabric, folded enough body fat until. (3) Determine the direction of the pattern of the material, so that the direction of the pattern on the garment piece, sleeve piece, collar piece is the same; (4) cut velvet fabric, pay attention to make each piece of velvet inverted to the same direction, so as to avoid color difference; (5) cutting, in the outline of the line outside the appropriate sewing and edging. Such as sewing ordinary zipper, stopping 1.5cm, invisible zipper, stopping 1cm, edging and embedded edge stopping is also different. (6) Check the quantity and quality of fabric and lining pieces. Such as a piece of the right bottom lapel (front and back there is no error in cutting) Second, sewing: (1) piece of clothing to pull (2) side seams to paste the drawstring (3) lapel side paste the drawstring (4) sewing Ancient cheongsam's craft is characterized by fine handmade, applying a variety of embroidery, inlay, inlay, rolling and other crafts; modern cheongsam's craft is characterized by a simple and fitting style of line structure instead of fine handmade.