What are the costumes of the Ming Dynasty in history? The evolution of official uniforms in Ming Dynasty!

What are the costumes of the Ming Dynasty in history? Here is a detailed introduction to the relevant content of school easy search.

Clothing, from the earliest as a shelter to keep warm and keep out the cold, has gradually evolved into an ornament of social etiquette, marking another great progress of human civilization.

Recently, the popularity of the historical costume drama "Daming Fenghua" has aroused heated discussion, among which the costumes of characters are particularly controversial.

On the whole, the costumes of the characters in the TV series Daming Fenghua are exquisite and gorgeous. No matter from the aspects of clothes, fabrics, tailoring, belts, buttons, headwear, etc. You can see the exquisiteness of the dress.

Stage photo

But even so, it is pointed out that the clothing culture is not rigorous enough and there are many clothing mistakes, which are inconsistent with history.

So, what are the costumes of the Ming Dynasty in history? Today, we will start with the official uniforms of the Ming Dynasty and talk about the characteristics of the official uniforms of the Ming Dynasty and the culture contained in them.

First, the historical evolution of official uniforms in Ming Dynasty

As early as ancient times, people attached great importance to the etiquette communication function of clothing. For example, Han's "Daming Fenghua" said, "Heaven only wants to call me! Swimsuit, put it on to sleep and cover it. " The appearance of robes also fully illustrates this point.

Official uniforms first developed in Shang and Zhou Dynasties, and then gradually improved after Qin, Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, Tang and Song Dynasties, and finally to Ming and Qing Dynasties. Especially in the Ming Dynasty, the official uniform system reached the most complete and complicated level.

Official costume of Ming dynasty

1368, established in Ming dynasty. In order to maintain his rule, Zhu Yuanzhang put forward the concept of "learning from Zhou Han and Tang Song" and made more detailed requirements and regulations on the official service system.

This point was mentioned in the "Evolution and Development of Clothing in Ming Dynasty" we wrote before. Interested friends can look back.

From the perspective of Ming dynasty costumes, how did Ming dynasty costumes evolve and develop under the crown service system?

The formulation of official uniforms in Ming Dynasty took several decades.

According to the records of Hongwu for twenty-four years, the replacement pattern is as follows: "Gong, Hou, Xu and Bo: Kirin and Bai Ze; Civil servants embroider birds to show civilization: first-class cranes, second-class golden pheasants, third-class peacocks, fourth-class clouds, fifth-class silver pheasants, sixth-class egrets and seventh-class egrets? 6. Seven tigers, eight rhinos and nine seahorses; Miscellaneous: practicing magpies; Guan Feng: Xi An zh. "

As can be seen from the article, the official uniforms at that time were quite complex and diverse, and the official uniforms of civil and military officials all had animal patterns.

Note: "Puckilo" refers to a patch on the front and back of the official uniform, which is a remarkable feature of the official uniform system in Ming and Qing Dynasties.

Stage photo

According to historical records, the supplement of official uniforms originated in the Tang Dynasty. When Wu Zetian was in office, in order to reward officials, she specially embroidered different brocade patterns on her clothes, including figures and animals. In the Ming dynasty, it gradually developed into a pattern of complement, and characters were replaced by patterns, leaving only the content of patterns.

The biggest feature of BuZi:

Different from the pattern on the military attache's clothing, the pattern on the military attache's clothing is a bird, and the pattern on the military attache's clothing is a beast, that is, a "literary beast." So people use "the devil in Prada" to describe this kind of clothing.

Second, then, why do you want to embroider patterns and patterns on official clothes?

1. Ancient people used bird and beast patterns as decoration for a long time.

In the long historical development process, the Chinese nation has continuously created and enriched its own culture, from which totem culture has been derived.

As early as a long time ago, the ancestors of the Chinese nation used to get tattoos on their bodies.

In the past, social productivity was low and people's living environment was relatively difficult. In order to pray for peace and good luck, ancestors pinned their good wishes on totems, birds and animals. So the "devil wears prada" mentioned above is not a derogatory term, but a noble and beautiful meaning.

2. It embodies the concept of "ritual system" in ancient China.

Influenced by Confucianism, China's feudal society for thousands of years has always been "self-cultivation, keeping the family in order, governing the country and leveling the world", with a hierarchical concept of "neither supercilious nor supercilious, and there are differences between noble and humble". On this basis, clothing has also been endowed with political functions and used as a tool to consolidate the rule and maintain the hierarchy.

According to textual research, China's crown system appeared in the Western Zhou Dynasty. According to the custom of Zheng Tong's lost temples, emperors and officials must wear robes or crown clothes when holding sacrificial ceremonies or court meetings, and the specific clothing varies according to their status and rank. Later, with the change of dynasties and the development of the times, the crown system was constantly reformed and improved, and gradually solidified into a political means of feudal monarchs.

It is recorded that: "When the ancient emperors ruled the world, they must distinguish between the noble and the humble with the ritual system, and be bright and equal."

It is enough to see the importance of clothing in maintaining the feudal hierarchy. However, the patches on the official uniforms of the Ming Dynasty, that is, the decorative patterns on the chest and back, are important signs to distinguish official ranks.

3. Why is the pattern of civil and military officials different? What are the cultural implications of these models?

As mentioned above, the salary pattern of civil servants is: one crane, two golden pheasants, nine quails, one military attache, two lions, three tigers and leopards, four tigers and leopards and nine seahorses.

Supplementary mode of civil and military officials of different grades

It is obvious from the chart that the official uniforms of civil and military officials are consistent with their identity and personality.

As we all know, civil servants are generally gentle and good at "splashing ink", embroidering bird patterns on the supplement of official uniforms, highlighting the elegance and elegance of civil servants. Military attaché s are generally brave and tough, and are good at dancing guns and making sticks. Their official uniforms are embroidered with patterns of wild animals, which highlights their masculinity and strength.

Officials with different identities and ranks have different patterns and decorations on their official uniforms, representing different meanings, but in general, they all imply a kind of good hope and sustenance.

Let's give two examples of the complement format of Guan to illustrate.

1. Supplementary mode of civil service uniform

crane

Ming Hui Dian said that "nine heavens smell cranes" and Ming Fenghua said that "the strange appearance of Ruiyu is staggering, and people call it" the fairy controls the green ghost ". These are all beautiful descriptions of cranes by the ancients.

In the traditional culture of China, cranes have the meaning of longevity, auspiciousness and elegance, and are regarded as advanced folk birds. Its position is second only to the royal dragon and phoenix decoration, and it has the reputation of "under one bird, above ten thousand birds". Auxiliary clothing for civil servants embroidered with crane patterns symbolizes high officials, auspiciousness and dignity.

Crane mode

golden pheasant

The golden rooster is the most gorgeous pheasant. In Zhou Li, Song Huizong, chickens are used to publicize people's five moral qualities, including kindness, trustworthiness, courage, courage and culture.

Mingshi

Year: "one chicken and five virtues: the crown has a text; Those who beat the distance, Wu Ye; The enemy is in front, and those who dare to fight are brave; Those who call when they see food are benevolent; Don't lose the vigil, believe it, that's what it means.

Two pieces of civil servants' supplementary clothes are embroidered with golden pheasant patterns, which symbolize five beautiful qualities, and these moral qualities are the most basic etiquette and professional quality requirements of the monarch for his servants.

2. Supplementary pattern of military attache's official uniform

lion

In the traditional culture of China, lions have always been regarded as auspicious animals. For example, Manjusri Bodhisattva mounts are based on lions; Another example.

Rhinoceroses are herbivores. The ancients thought rhinoceros was a lucky animal. Du Fu once wrote in the Book of Songs Xiaoya: "Qin did not see Shu Du, but carved stone for five rhinos." According to historical records, when Shu Shou Li Bing built Dujiangyan, he carved five stone rhinos to save water. It can be seen that rhinoceros is an auspicious thing in the hearts of the ancients.

In addition, rhinoceros is huge, with rough skin, rare and hard fur and sharp horns. The skin of rhino horn can be used as armor, and the horn can be used as a weapon. Eight military attaché s decorated the rhinoceros, expressing a beautiful hope that the military attaché s can be as smart and soft as rhinoceros, and have a sharp and powerful side.

Rhino pattern

Of course, in addition to the patterns and patterns of supplements mentioned above, there are many other patterns and patterns of animals, all of which have been given different meanings.

evaluate

In short, in the long history of China for thousands of years, clothing has always been political. During the Ming Dynasty, the rulers paid more attention to the political function of costumes, and had strict requirements on the decoration, pattern, color and wearing of official uniforms.

Puckilo, a small piece of cloth, has both aesthetic and political functions. Decorate animals such as birds and beasts on the official clothing "cloth" to distinguish the identity of officials, express good wishes and pray for good luck through the pattern of "auspicious birds and beautiful beasts", highlight the strict and orderly hierarchical relationship, and reflect the patriarchal hierarchy and ideological system in feudal society.