Who can talk about Taoist and Buddhist costumes?

Taoist costumes can be divided into five parts: golden way, Taoist crown, Taoist robe, shoes and socks and accessories.

I. Jindao

Jin Dao pointed to the hat worn by the Taoist priest. As the saying goes, "Tao has nine towels", but the name of the nine towels is not fixed. The nine kinds of towels recorded in Min Xiaogen's The Mystery of Qing Dynasty Rules are Tang towel, Chonghe towel, Haoran towel, Xiaoyao towel, Ziyang towel, Zi towel, Nylon towel, Jiuyang towel. Great changes have taken place since the late Qing Dynasty. The popular nine towels are: There are nine kinds of mixed towels: Zhuangzi towel, pure Yang towel, Haoran towel, Xiaoyao towel, lotus leaf towel, sun towel, straight towel and wrapped towel. Although Taoism has the name of "Nine Towels", ordinary Taoist priests only wear a few kinds every day. At present, Quanzhen Taoist priests often use mixed towels, Zhuangzi towels and Chinese towels in their daily lives, while Zhengyi Taoist priests often use pure yang towels and clean towels.

Second, Taoist temple

Taoist temple refers to the crown worn by Taoist priests. Most of them are made of wood, and recently there are also plastic products. According to their different uses, they can be divided into Huang Guan, Wuyue Crown, Guanxing, Lotus Crown and Five Old Crown.

The above Taoist crowns can only be worn when attending religious activities, and they must be taken off in other informal occasions.

Third, robes.

Taoist robes refer to the robes worn by Taoist priests outside. It can be divided into six types: robes, delos, abstinence clothes, cassocks, flowered clothes and dressing gowns.

Coat: the chest, legs and wrists grow up, the sleeves are one foot and four inches wide, and the sleeves are as long as you want. Taoist priests wear the most common cassock every day. Otherwise, knee-length clothes are called "Zhongshan suit". Nowadays, most of them are narrow sleeves for daily work. They are all blue, representing the meaning of Dharma and Heaven. "Da Ming Hui Dian" says: "Taoist priests will always serve the youth".

Delo: blue, big breasts, long legs and wrists, sleeves over one foot and eight inches wide and portable. After becoming a formal Taoist, you can wear this dress as a costume for religious activities.

Resignation suit: yellow, big breasts, reaching to the legs and wrists, sleeves over 2 feet and 4 inches wide, and long sleeves to carry with you. Yellow belongs to soil, which can nourish everything, and yellow is used to quit clothes. In addition to expressing solemnity, it also means "educating all things and educating counselors". Only Taoist priests can wear this kind of clothes. In the past, there were "three clothes" in the Taoist lecture system, which were worn by Taoists who accepted the first true precept, the middle precept and the Great Immortal precept respectively. Now the ring is given at one time, so only this ring is used.

Vestments: Also known as "fairy cave clothes". Double-breasted, calf-length, sleeveless, long sleeve. There are various auspicious Taoist patterns embroidered with gold and silver thread, such as Luo Yu terrace, sun, moon and stars, gossip, pagoda, dragon and phoenix, crane and unicorn. When holding a large-scale fasting ceremony, the high arch dominated by the Dojo wears this kind of clothes. The abbot wore this dress when he held the ceremony, but it was purple. It is said that when Laozi rode an ox out of the customs, "purple gas came from the east", so Taoism advocated purple robes. Since the Tang and Song Dynasties, emperors have given Gao Zhen, a famous Taoist priest, a purple robe.

Flower clothes: also known as "class clothes". It's also a cassock. Double-breasted, calf-length, sleeveless, long sleeve. There are also various embroidery patterns on it, but they are simpler than the fairy cave clothes. Many scholars try to use this kind of clothes when holding large-scale fasting ceremonies. There are red or yellow people with no patterns, which are usually worn by Dojo teachers and are called "classics".

Yi: Also called "Yi Tou". Big breasts, all the way to the calf. Multi-layer coarse cloth sewing is clumsy and bulky. Taoist priests who traveled in the clouds used to wear them when they meditated in the wild to keep out the cold. Nowadays, many Taoist priests are no longer used, and a few Taoist priests still keep clothes handed down from generation to generation.

The clothes above are all fat and loose, in order to contain Gan Kun and block the dust. And show a straight collar to mistress.

Fourth, shoes and socks

There are several common styles of shoes and socks worn by Taoist priests.

Round shoes: black, deep and round. For ordinary Taoist priests to wear daily.

Double-sided shoes: black, round mouth, with two protruding beams in the middle of the upper, which divides the upper into two, hence the name. Some also decorate the vamps with moire patterns, which is extraordinary. These are more formal shoes.

Square toe shoes: the toe is round and the upper is black and white striped. There is another kind, that is, the upper is alternately perforated, which is suitable for summer wear.

Ma Xie: As the saying goes, "Ma Xie" or "Ma Xie". Shoes made of hemp rope are suitable for wearing in summer or rainy days. These shoes are rarely worn now.

The above kinds of shoes are not strictly regulated in Taoism. Taoist priests nowadays generally wear cloth shoes or sports shoes sold in society.

Cloud shoes: Also called "shoes". The sole is thick and the upper is lined with moire. It was worn by a high arch on the altar of fasting.

High socks: Also known as "high socks", commonly known as "white socks". White, socks wrapped around the knees, tied with a belt. White represents white clouds, symbolizing roaming paradise. Taoism stipulates that you must wear these socks when entering the temple. If you don't have them, you must fasten your pants.

In addition, in recent years, a kind of "cheese socks" has appeared, which belongs to a variant of high socks, that is, the feet of high socks are removed and only the tube parts are used. The appearance is similar to that of high socks, especially suitable for summer wear.

Verb (abbreviation for verb) accessory

Jewelry refers to all kinds of ornaments worn by Taoists.

Road hairpin: commonly known as "hairpin". Taoist priests use it to tie their hair in a bun. Usually made of boxwood, jade or metal. Strip-shaped, slightly curved, straight, and some back ends are engraved with Tai Chi, gossip patterns or gourd shapes.

Hats are: mostly made of jade. Square, set in the center of the hat. Besides being used as decoration, it also has the function of checking whether Jindao is properly dressed.

Hui Jian: It's a decoration on the robe. It's two long sword-shaped belts sewn on the buttons of the cassock. At the end of the Tang Dynasty, Taoist Lv Dongbin changed his swordsmanship to "breaking worries, desires, greed and prudence", which is the moral of Hui Jian.

Sabre: A sword worn by Taoist priests. The ancients in China wore swords. The Tao Te Ching and Shinto Ching said that "all ancient people wore swords".

Taoism is mostly male and female double swords, which are carried on the back. It is rare for Taoist priests to wear swords now. Except occasionally seeing wandering Taoist swords, they are usually hung in the living room to ward off evil spirits.

Gourd: Li Tieguai, the Eight Immortals, has a gourd with an elixir of life in it. Taoists wear gourds and generally hold Taoist pills, which is more common among traveling Taoists.

Fish drum: Also called "Fish drum". Percussion instruments are struck by hand, and one end of a long bamboo tube is covered with a thin skin. Once upon a time, Taoist priests sang songs of Taoist immortals (that is, "Taoist feelings") to accompany them. Now it is extinct in Taoism.

Single ladle: also known as "side ladle". This is a long-handled spoon-shaped container carved from hardwood. This is a necessary thing for Taoist priests to travel in the past and serve meals outside. Taoist priests don't use this thing today.

Blowing dust: it is a handle made of wood or metal with brown silk or ponytail tied at the end. Can be used to clean dust or drive away mosquitoes and flies. Taoists hold dust in their hands, which is intended to sweep away the dirt from the soul and make the body and mind calm.

Yin-yang ring: two rings connected together, which can be rotated back and forth in the hand, representing the meaning of "Yin-yang cycle, cycle after cycle". Usually made of wood or jade. There is also the Three Rings, which are called "Three Talented Rings" or "Three Rings for the Moon". Old Taoist priests especially like to play with this, thinking that activities refer to wrists.

The costumes of Buddhist monks are obviously different from those of their families. In addition to religious reasons, there are many reasons such as history, region, nationality and fashion. Buddhism has been introduced into China for nearly two thousand years. The three ethnic groups of Han, Tibetan and Dai have different Buddhist systems, so the costumes of monks of all ethnic groups are also different. Buddhism in the Han Dynasty, in particular, has a long history and a wide geographical area. In addition, the costumes of the Han nationality have changed greatly in different periods, which has had an impact on the Han monks. Their costumes have also become more complex in color and shape, which is more different from the original Indian monk costumes.

1. Sangfucai

According to the old system of Indian Buddhism, there are strict rules on the color of monks' clothes.

Volume 8 of the Pilgrimage Sutra says: "Monks dress in different colors, and Buddhas listen to ten colors. Ten colors: Yi Ni, Ertuopo bark, three old ladies Tuo bark, Sicaofei, Wugantuo, six walnut roots, seven maple leaves, Batuo bark, Jiupo bark, and ten kinds of miscellaneous dyes. If so, these ten colors should be dyed. It is a three-point cleaning method, one with mud, the other with green, and the third with uneven color. Use these three three-point cleaning clothes. "

Volume 8 of Sapodupini Piposha says that clothes should not use the blue and black colors of Huangchi. There are also solid colors, such as yellow and blue, turmeric, luosha, indigo naturalis and all young people.

It is said in the fifteenth volume of Ten Chants that the new clothes of monks such as Tsing Yi, mud, red clothes and white clothes should be dressed in three colors: blue, mud and money.

Volume 28 of the Maha Monk Law says: "Monks don't listen to five-color clothes, but should dye them with roots, leaves, flowers, bark and down to giant mill juice."

The above words illustrate two points: first, the color of monks' clothes is not allowed to have color, nor is it allowed to be pure color; Second, all new clothes must be painted with another color, so as to destroy the neatness of clothes and avoid greed. This is called "bad color" or "clean point".

In the Buddhist legal system, although it is forbidden to use colored and solid colors, there are many different colors to choose from for dyed robes, and red is the most used one. For example, in the second volume of "The Tale of the Western Regions of the Tang Dynasty", the cassock color of black grass is yellow pool; "Each has his own chores" Volume 29 says that the Buddha's aunt wears red sangha clothes. In the second volume of "Good Solution, Vipo Sha", it is said that when Ashoka, Dade wore red clothes.

After Buddhism was introduced to China, monks still wore red clothes. "Hong Mingji" quoted the theory of reason and confusion and said, "Now the Saman has been exposed." However, in a small area for a period of time, the color of monks' robes has been disordered. Since the Tang Dynasty, nine people, including Shaman Falang, have been given purple robes according to the regulations of officials with three or more titles in the Tang Dynasty. During the Tang and Song Dynasties, it was always an honor for shamans to give purple clothes. As a result, I ignored the precepts and chose the color of the cassock at will, which was later corrected. Of course, from the Han Dynasty to the present, the robes of Buddhist monks are mainly red, but they are too obsessed with "red", and scarlet robes are the most common. As we all know, scarlet is a coloring and pure color that is not allowed in the precepts, while the red clothes worn by ancient Indian monks are red, black or red and yellow.

Because of the cold climate of Han nationality, monks in China can't keep out the cold only by cassock. Even the big monk from the west, who only wears Kesaya, can't survive the winter and must wear other clothes. In the Eastern Jin Dynasty, a monk's garment "Yi Yi" appeared, which was different from the cassock. Song Zanning's A Brief History of the Monks in the Great Song Dynasty quoted Kao Gong Ji as saying: "Q: What color is the person who took off his clothes?" A: Purple is light black, not a positive color. " Black clothes soon became popular among monks. For example, during the Southern Song Dynasty, Kong Kai called Huilin the "Prime Minister in Black". At the beginning of Qi Dynasty, Jingzhou Chikulinji, Shang Hui and Xuan Chang were called "the two outstanding men in black".

In the six bundles of water notes in Li Daoyuan's Notes on Water Classics, people who collect herbs at home are praised as "places to think about the mysterious", which shows that Shao color was originally the color of ancient religions in China, so Buddhist monks also chose this color in their uniforms. The difference between Buddhism and Taoism lies only in the use of crowns and towels. As a result, Huang Guan became the proper name of the Taoist priest and Yi Yi became the nickname of the monk. After that, there were more monks and more people wearing clothes, and the monks had to change their colors. Since then, Shui Yi has become the proper name of monks, and water harmony and white clothes have become the symmetry between monks and common people. However, according to "A Brief History of Monks", Emperor Wu of the Northern Zhou Dynasty banned shamans from wearing cassock and changed it to yellow. Since then, the colors of monks' uniforms have become diverse. The development of China culture is conservative in the north, so you Zhou was merged in the late Tang Dynasty and early Song Dynasty to keep the clothes old and still black.

In the early years of Hongwu in Ming Dynasty, the court formally formulated the service color of monks. In the Ming Dynasty, the manuscript of the Ministry of Rites said: "In the fourteenth year of Hongwu, monks wore colorful clothes, and Zen monks wore brown clothes, blue tapestries, and five-color robes; On the monk's jade color, green sash and light red cassock; Teach monks to wear soap, black sash and light red cassock. " At present, too many monks' uniforms are brown, yellow, black and gray, and there are yellow and green in the north. Among these five colors, there are any shades, which is no longer a rule.

2. Monk clothing system

Buddhism originated in ancient India in the 5th century BC. Due to doctrines, customs, climate and other reasons, there are only "three clothes" and "five clothes" in monk's clothing, which are collectively referred to as vestments. After Buddhism was introduced into China, the situation is changing. According to the Buddhist system of "keeping all things", official clothes are added to vestments. Therefore, the styles of monk's clothes in Han Dynasty can be divided into two categories: one is cassock, which is the clothes worn by monks in Buddhism and Dharma; One is ordinary clothes, which monks wear every day.

Monks have the following vestments:

Sanyi refers to the three kinds of robes worn by monks, which are collectively called armor. "Three clothes" are five clothes, seven clothes and a coat.

Five clothes; In Sanskrit, it is called Antuohui, which literally translates as lower garment, underwear and middle garment. It consists of five pieces of cloth, each piece of cloth is long and short, with ten intervals. This dress is lined and worn at the bottom.

Seven clothes, called Yu Duoluo monk in Sanskrit, literally translated as coat. It consists of seven pieces of cloth, each piece of cloth has two long pieces and one short piece, with an interval of 21 pieces. This dress is worn on five clothes.

Coat, known as Sangha clothing in Sanskrit, literally translates as heavy clothing and gathering clothing. It is made of nine to twenty-five pieces of cloth. This dress is worn outside. It is a monk's dress. It is said that you have to wear it when you visit your elders and enter the palace for alms, so it is called Zufu. This dress is divided into three categories: nine, eleven and thirteen, each with its own length; Three kinds of domestic products, fifteen, seventeen and nineteen, are all three long and one short; The three top grades are 2 1, 23, and 25, each with four long and one short. The number of coats ranges from 27 pieces of 9 clothes to 127 pieces of 25 clothes. The more stripes and spaces, the nobler the wearer's identity.

The tailoring and sewing of the "three clothes" are all rectangular and square paddy fields, also called Tian Xiang clothes, paddy field clothes and tailoring. The origin of Tianxiang's clothes is recorded in The Monk Arrives at the Dharma: "The Buddha lived in the King Snake City. When he passed the grottoes before the emperor was released, he saw the rice fields were clear, and it was hard to say: Buddhists used to wear them like this, and he will make clothes like this from now on." "Zenghui Ji" also said: "The field is filled with water, and the long-term seedlings are raised to live a long life; The field of clothing law is moistened by the water of four benefits, and its seedlings of three goodness are increased to cultivate wisdom. "

"Three clothes" are made up of many pieces of rags, also known as hundred-sleeve clothes and sleeve clothes, so monks call themselves sleeve clothes people and sleeve clothes. According to the ten-chanting method, the sleeve clothes are also named after the five-sleeve clothes: one is the donor clothes, the other is the non-donor clothes, the third is the returning clothes, the fourth is the dead clothes, and the fifth is the sweeping clothes. He also said that when the Buddha first arrived at the Five Monks, he advocated the Five Sleeves. This kind of clothes has ten advantages: first, the clothes are coarse, second, there is no shortage of demands, third, there is freedom to sit, fourth, there is freedom to lie down, fifth, it is easy to wash, sixth, there is less insect damage, seventh, it is easy to dye, eighth, it is not easy to break, ninth, there is not much clothing, and tenth, there is no shortage of demands.

"Sanfu" is the cassock, which originally meant Gaza. Ge Hong in the Eastern Jin Dynasty wrote "Zi Yuan", in which clothes were added and changed into cassock. In addition to the above names, according to its religious significance, cassock is also called undressed clothes, dusted clothes, undressed clothes, dirty clothes, lotus clothes, thin clothes and humiliating nails. Monks in the Han dynasty only wore one of the three robes and put them outside the vestments. Moreover, monks who have received the "three great precepts" can wear seven clothes and ancestral clothes.

The original cassock was not equipped with a hook. According to Article 40 of the Quadratic Method, "When the disciples of Sakyamuni entered the White House, they were afraid that the wind would blow the cassock off their shoulders." Therefore, the Buddha allowed disciples to tie the cassock collar on the left shoulder and chest, put on the nail hook and fasten the cassock. Later, it evolved into a desirable shackle.

Wuming

In addition to the "three clothes", there are two kinds of clothes, which are collectively called "five clothes". One is a monk's branch, which means to cover your shoulders or armpits. It is a rectangular dress that covers the right shoulder and the left shoulder and armpits. One is a nirvana monk, which literally translates as "Zen skirt". This is a tunic dress. Wrap it around your waist like a bath towel and tuck it in your abdomen. These two kinds of clothes are close-fitting plain clothes of tropical and subtropical people, such as modern waistcoats and underpants, which are not in line with the climate and national habits of China and are not adopted by Han monks. Why do monks wear clothes, sew cloth, and so on? Because Buddhism believes that odd numbers belong to yang, and all things are born, three clothes; Ninth class. It means that everything good can be born.

garment of thin silk

Brahma's name is "bowl", which is also translated as "handkerchief". It is made of two pieces of cloth. Monks are casual, mostly tan. Misha and Shamini can be worn without restraint, and monks and nuns can also wear them. Youposai and Youpoyi, Buddhist disciples at home, can also have robes, but they can't wear them in daily life. They can only wear them when doing Buddhist services, worshipping and confessing, so they are also called "ceremonial robes".

bedclothes

Sanskrit is called Nishi Altar, which literally translates as bedding, seat, dressing and sitting clothes. One of the clothes made by Buddha. Its original function, according to the five-point law, is: "to protect monks' bodies, clothes and beds, and to store seats." If you are on the road, you must put it in a garment bag; Go back to your place and sit down. At present, monks are mainly used in Buddhism and sacrificial ceremonies. As a monk's clothing, it has lost the function of sitting and lying, so it is called "residence". Its size, according to the law, is "long Buddha's hands, wide Buddha's hand and a half", and now it is four feet eight inches long and three feet six inches wide. Its material should be old cloth or coarse cloth. If you must use a new cloth, you should sew an old cloth on it to ruin its beauty. Nowadays, "furniture" is made of two layers of tawny cloth stacked together, and the four sides are sewn with cyan cloth strips. This kind of furniture is more beautiful.

Monks' uniforms are as follows:

Christina "Christina" is the main uniform of Han monks in China. Its style is wide waist, wide sleeves and round neck, which is much fatter than all clothes. So it is usually called big robe, square robe, or robe for short.

The name of "Christina" was given by Zheng in the first volume of Yan Yan: "In Wuzhong dialect, those who wear wide sleeves are called Christina. According to Taibai's poem,' dancing with wide sleeves is like a bird from the east.' There is a handsome cuckoo named Hai Dongqing in Gai Donghai, whose wide sleeves dance like Hai Dongqing. Therefore, the name of this bird was later borrowed as the name of the robe.

"Christina" originated from the costume style of China during the Han and Tang Dynasties. Although it was not made by the ancient Buddha, it has long been used by Buddhism and has formed its own characteristics. Its collar is formed by overlapping three layers of cloth, which is called "three treasures collar"; There are fifty-three blue threads tied on the collar, which means "fifty-three ginseng from a rich boy". Its cuffs are sewn on, which is also the difference between a monk's robe and a vulgar robe. Christina made the appearance of monks clean and solemn. Although it does not belong to the cassock, it is the most sacred monk's clothing except the cassock. Wearing "Christina" is mostly used in important occasions such as chanting, listening to scriptures, meeting guests, discussing affairs and meeting elders.

The color of "sea blue" is mostly based on the traditional habits in temples. Ordinary monks are mainly blue-gray and Mulan, and their elders are mainly tan.

Shirts and jackets

Buddhist Jungle Temple Since Baizhang Zen Master advocated the agricultural Zen system in the Tang Dynasty, monks have to "become monks" or participate in chores in the temple, and it is inconvenient to wear "sea blue", so shirts and robes have appeared. The style of the shirt is "Sambo collar" and the waist sleeve of cheongsam, and the button is on the right side of the armpit. There are several kinds of shirts, some reaching to the instep, two reaching to the knee and some short below the knee. The style of the coat is a short coat with sleeves or sleeveless "three treasures collar". In 1930s, Master Taixu also advocated a new double-breasted jacket-Taixu jacket, which is now "Lohan jacket". The colors of shirts and jackets are gray, brown and magnolia.

Hat, crown

Monks are bald and generally don't wear hats. But in winter, there are still some elderly monks, and many of them wear hats. Monks' hats are mainly head-shaped hats and flat-topped hats with big heads and small heads. In winter, elderly monks wear cloaks and hats, commonly known as "Guanyin Pocket". The "hibiscus hat" worn by Jigong monks leans back and forth like an ingot, but it is rarely worn now; Celestial officials, Guan Bao, Piluguan and other "judges" can't be worn by ordinary monks, and only exorcists can wear them at "flame opening" ceremonies or Dafa meetings.

Shoes and socks

In China, all monks in the Han Dynasty had to wear shoes and socks, which was clearly stipulated in the Classic of Saving the Ming Dynasty and the Classic of the Moon. There are three kinds of shoes: first, awn shoes, woven from grass, also known as sandals. The second kind is Lohan shoes, which are made of cloth. The vamp is sewn with three pieces of cloth and decorated with some square holes. The third kind is monk shoes, made of cloth, with hard beams in the middle of the upper and no holes in the whole body. Lohan shoes are mostly gray-brown, and monk shoes are mostly brown. Socks are long cloth socks, which are actually the style of cloth socks since the Han and Tang Dynasties in China, commonly known as Lohan socks. Lohan socks are knee-high, and the trouser leg holes are in the sock mouth, which can keep out the cold in winter, prevent insects and snakes in summer, and be dignified. The color of socks is mainly gray.