Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional festivals - Cultural common sense clothing appliance
Cultural common sense clothing appliance
Cultural common sense dress 1. Hanfu cultural knowledge
Hanfu is called "the traditional costume of China".
It began in the Yellow Emperor, was prepared in Yao and Shun, took shape in the Zhou Dynasty and flourished in the Ming Dynasty. Through hand-painted decoration, cutting, sewing, ironing and other processes, it integrates unique dyeing, weaving and embroidery, featuring collar and white lace. Du Fu is the projection of "Chinese civilization" and "the state of etiquette" in clothing, showing Chinese style and oriental aesthetics.
From the Yellow Emperor's "ruling the world by hanging clothes" to the national costumes of the Han nationality before the Qing Dynasty. Although it has undergone changes, its main shape "horizontal collar and straight row, up and down" has never changed.
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The Present Situation of Hanfu Culture
With the return of traditional culture, Hanfu weddings, Hanfu opening ceremonies, Hanfu sacrificial ceremonies and other forms of straight Hanfu "shows" have been staged frequently in Chinese mainland. The enthusiasm for Hanfu reflects that people pay more and more attention to cultural traditions. However, whether it is the "crossing" experience of feather fan and black ribbon or the awakening of traditional culture, the dispute between "Tao" and "quality" in cultural inheritance has increasingly become the focus of attention of all parties.
After 10 years of development, Hanfu has already gradually entered the public's aesthetic vision from the cultural expression symbols of young people. Behind the aesthetic changes, it is inevitable that the traditional culture of China for thousands of years contained in Hanfu is pushing the youth groups to the forefront of the trend.
China News Wang Rong-The charm of Hanfu is amazing and the traditional culture is recognized and excavated by young people.
China News Network-The Debate between Form and Quality in the Heritage of Hanfu Culture of Hong Kong University Students' "Show"
2. National costumes with their own characteristics
China is an ancient country with profound cultural background, and the Han nationality, the main ethnic group, has created countless splendid civilizations.
As a manifestation of culture, clothing embodies the aesthetics and values of the Han nationality. The concept of Hanfu Hanfu is the abbreviation of Han costumes: it mainly refers to the Han costumes formed in the process of natural and cultural development and ethnic blending before the end of the Ming Dynasty.
As an independent clothing system, Hanfu has formed a unique cultural background and national style in the historical development, that is, it has formed distinctive style characteristics, which is obviously different from the traditional clothing of other ethnic groups in China and any other ethnic groups in the world, and is qualitatively different from modern clothing in standard styles. Han costumes are extensive and profound.
The definition of Hanfu-the traditional costume of the Han nationality is mainly based on the following three considerations: First, the nationality of Hanfu, that is, Hanfu is the costume of the Han nationality. Moreover, the clothes worn by China ancient conference semifinals can't be called Hanfu.
Nation is a whole concept, so the clothes of the Hu people worn by a Han nationality cannot be called the traditional clothes of the Han nationality. Second, the tradition of the development of Hanfu, which must be divided into two aspects, namely inheritance and unity.
The inheritance of Hanfu lies in the following aspects: the origin of Hanfu can be traced back to the period of the Yellow Emperor in ancient China, and it has maintained the style inheritance and continued to develop. The unity of Hanfu lies in the fact that from the Yellow Emperor period to the Song and Ming Dynasties, all the mainstream Han costumes have the same characteristics in the vast land of China, in the time span of nearly 5,000 years and in the spatial breadth of several million square kilometers.
That is, right-handed, big sleeves and deep clothes are typical representatives. Third, the naturalness of the development of Hanfu, that is, the natural development that is usually not easily perceived by people under the voluntary situation, is also the regular law of the development of general things or culture.
The naturalness of the development of Hanfu is the basis of the inheritance of a nation's traditional costumes, that is, the development and evolution direction of a certain thing or culture under its own normal development track. Its direction can be traced back to the source through general laws, and its development direction can also be predicted in reverse.
According to this definition, in ancient China, except the Qing Dynasty costumes, as long as they were worn before the end of the Ming Dynasty, regardless of style, region, integration, differentiation and development, they can all be called Hanfu, while modern ancient costumes, except the Qing Dynasty costumes, are based on traditional styles, so they can also be called Hanfu. Hanfu, on the other hand, can be easily distinguished from the traditional costumes of other nationalities (including full-service, western-style clothes and modern clothes) with the naked eye. Nowadays, this kind of Hanfu is often called "ancient costume (except clear costume)".
The costumes of the Qing dynasty, traced back to the source, originated from Manchu costumes. Looking back, it is not the tradition of Hanfu. Therefore, although it is worn by * * *, it does not conform to the "traditional" elements of traditional Han costumes, so it cannot be classified as Hanfu; Today, the clothes worn by * * * mainly come from the west, and the "Tang suit", jacket and cheongsam mainly come from the traditional clothes of Manchu, which can't be called the "traditional clothes" of Han nationality.
In other words, it is necessary to distinguish between the clothes worn by a Han nationality and the traditional clothes of the whole Han nationality. The origin of Hanfu is because we are a nation that pursues distance cautiously. Although there was indeed a style close to Lizi in Shang and Zhou Dynasties, on the whole, we always kept the original choice of our ancestors ... This is the origin of right-handedness.
As for long sleeves and wide sleeves, it may be a custom after the accumulation of wealth in the upper class, but because Confucius paid attention to big sleeves (sewing clothes) in those days, it became an essential element and distinctive feature of literati decoration (which of course reflected our concept of life). About 5,000 years ago, during the Yangshao Culture in the Neolithic Age in China, people's lives became more and more stable, resulting in primitive agriculture and textile industry. They began to make clothes out of woven linen, and later invented sericulture and spinning, and people's clothes and costumes became more and more complete.
With the development of productive forces and social division of labor and the disintegration of primitive society, the development process of human society has undergone qualitative changes, from a classless society to a class society. Since then, clothing has become a tool for the ruling class to "show prestige, distinguish prestige, etc."
The appearance of the crown in the era of the Yellow Emperor marked the difference in grades. The two began to differ, and the clothing system gradually formed. The basic characteristics of Hanfu The style of men's wear: handed down from the "Yellow Emperor's clothes ruling the world" (represented by Qin and Han costumes), continued to Xia, Shang, Zhou (Spring and Autumn and Warring States), Qin and Han Dynasties, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, Sui and Tang Dynasties, Five Dynasties, Song, Mengyuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties.
This is the most common style of Japanese kimono. T-shirts popular since Sui and Tang Dynasties (worn by Emperor Taizong and Li Shimin) continued in Tang Dynasty, Five Dynasties, Song Dynasty, Mongolia, Yuan Dynasty and Ming Dynasty, and influenced Japan, Korea and other countries.
Song Taizu and Ming Taizu wear this kind of clothes. So far, the clothes worn by the Japanese emperor on some occasions are all variants of this Hanfu.
There are relatively many styles of women's wear, but there are only two basic styles (also represented by Qin and Han costumes). Different from the deep clothes in Qin and Han dynasties, the big-breasted and low-breasted clothes in Sui and Tang dynasties were divided into top and bottom clothes, and the clothes were no longer connected together like deep clothes.
These two styles of women's clothing had a great influence on the national costumes (women's clothing) in Song and Ming Dynasties and in Japan and South Korea. During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, Han women also wore Hu clothes with narrow sleeves and tight lapels, but those Hu clothes were basically worn as fashion clothes (or out of curiosity), rather than traditional Han clothes.
During the Song and Ming Dynasties, Han women also wore some other styles.
3. Classification of traditional costumes in China.
China's traditional costumes are an important part of China's traditional culture and precious wealth created by the Chinese nation and even human society.
Although some archaeological data have been found about the costume form of the primitive era of Chinese costumes in Xia, Shang and Zhou Dynasties, it is impossible to explain the costumes in this period in detail because of too little information. During the Xia, Shang and Zhou dynasties, the costumes of Chinese people in the Central Plains were a coat with a skirt and a right shirt.
The stone statue of slave owner unearthed in Anyang, Henan Province, wears a flat hat, a right collar, a skirt, a big belt around the waist, leggings and pointed shoes. This roughly reflects the situation of Shang Dynasty costumes.
In the early Zhou Dynasty, the system of rites and music made detailed provisions on the system of crown clothing for nobles and civilians, and the rulers showed their dignity and majesty with strict grade clothing. Deep clothing and coronation clothing began in the Zhou Dynasty, which had a far-reaching impact on later generations.
The appearance of Khufu in the Spring and Autumn Period The most important change in clothing during the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period was the popularity of deep clothes and the appearance of Khufu. The war in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period promoted the reform of Dai Bo to take off his coat, long skirt and robe.
King Wuling of Zhao broke through the resistance for the fighting capacity of the army, ordered the whole country to wear nomadic shorts and trousers, learned to ride and shoot, and finally made Zhao strong. This was the first clothing reform in China's history, and Khufu became very popular from then on.
Along with Khufu, there is a hook to end the belt. Because it is more convenient than tying a belt, it quickly became popular. Related knowledge: "Hu" is a vague term. In different historical periods, it sometimes refers to Xiongnu, sometimes refers to nomadic people from northeast to northwest, and sometimes it is even broader.
Therefore, Khufu refers to the costumes of nomadic people in northern China. They wear narrow-sleeved jackets, trousers and boots to meet the needs of nomadic riding. Shen Kuo said: "China has been wearing Hu clothes since the Northern Qi Dynasty."
The word "du" may be a bit excessive, but Khufu did have a great influence on the development of Han costumes. The establishment of the traditional crown clothing system in the Han Dynasty, deep clothing was still very popular in the Han Dynasty, and the Han Dynasty was the establishment period of the traditional crown clothing system.
Pants in the Han dynasty were crotch-opening, and pants were called crotch in ancient times. Said: "Yi, faithfulness also."
"Interpretation of Names and Clothes": "If you pay, you will pay two shares." It can be seen that the crotch was open at that time, and the outer cover was a petticoat or a deep coat.
Although full crotch pants appeared later, open crotch pants still existed for a long time. The popularity of Hu fu in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties was another great change in the history of ancient Chinese costumes.
With a large number of ethnic minorities entering the Central Plains, Hu Fu has become a common dress in society, and the clothes of ordinary people are most strongly influenced by Hu Fu. They absorbed the tight sleeves, round neck, split and other factors in Hu clothing into the original clothing.
On the basis of Khufu, the Han nobles also lengthened it, added cuffs and pants, and changed the left leg into the right leg. But this kind of clothing is still the traditional form of Han nationality clothing.
The clothing transformation period in Sui and Tang Dynasties, due to the stable and prosperous politics and economy, can inherit the origin of historical clothing and enlighten the clothing system of later generations, so this period has become an important historical period for the development of ancient Chinese clothing system. Men's uniforms are hoes, robes and boots.
However, the gown at this time is slightly different from the previous dynasty, with round neck, right collar, narrow sleeves and no collar edge. In addition, there are robes, crotch-less robes and other styles.
This kind of dress was mainly influenced by Khufu and combined with the living habits and etiquette characteristics of the Han nationality, which formed the dress style of this period. Clothing in Song Dynasty tends to be conservative, generally following the Tang system, but there are differences in clothing styles and names.
There are two styles of short crotch robes in Song Dynasty: wide sleeves and tight sleeves. The habit of wearing a coat and a half arm is extremely common, but neither can be worn as a dress.
Generally speaking, the costumes in Song Dynasty were more formal and conservative, and the colors were not as bright as before, giving people a simple, clean and elegant feeling, which was closely related to the social situation at that time, especially the influence of Zhu Cheng Neo-Confucianism. The costumes in Liao, Jin and Yuan dynasties not only followed the formal dress system, but also had their own national characteristics. The costumes in Liao, Jin and Yuan Dynasties have the same characteristics, which not only follow the dress system in Han, Tang and Song Dynasties, but also have their own national characteristics.
Men's clothing in Liao and Jin dynasties is mostly round neck, short crotch robe with sleeves, boots or pointed boots, trousers and waist belt. Men's wear in the Yuan Dynasty included Han people's round neck, collar robe and their grandson's clothes, which were similar in shape to deep clothes and short skirts with narrow sleeves, reaching to the knees, with numerous pleats at the waist, like today's pleated skirts with horizontal pleats at the waist.
Collar types include right-handed collar, square collar and disc collar. Wear pants with small mouths and sewing boots on your feet.
The main colors are white, blue and ochre. In addition, great changes have taken place in the materials of clothing in the Yuan Dynasty. Due to the extensive planting of cotton, cotton cloth has become the main variety of clothing materials.
Ming and Qing costumes inherited the previous generation, and Qing costumes had a great influence on modern times. Ming dynasty clothing generally followed the Tang system, but it also retained some styles of Song and Yuan dynasties. Clothing in Qing dynasty had a great influence on modern clothing forms. Different from any previous dynasty, the Qing Dynasty was a dynasty in which national costumes completely replaced Han costumes, and Han costumes gradually faded out of the historical stage.
Men's wear in Qing dynasty can be divided into two types: Manchu national clothing; Foreign clothes The style of robes in Qing dynasty was changed on the basis of Manchu tradition and absorbed the characteristics of Han clothing.
Generally, sleeves are narrow and thin, and dresses are arrow sleeves, also called horseshoe sleeves. The robe is buttoned.
Right hand, round neck. The robes of the royal family have four openings, front, back, left and right, while ordinary men can only open the air left and right.
Hanging horses is a unique costume of Manchu in Qing Dynasty. Its styles are mostly round neck, including double lapels, large lapels and pipa lapels, long sleeves, short sleeves, large sleeves and narrow sleeves, but all of them are flat cuffs.
It was not until the late Qing Dynasty and the Revolution of 1911 that the western clothing was introduced into China, which changed greatly and entered the stage of modern clothing development.
4. What are the taboos in dress etiquette and the precautions for dressing?
Dress etiquette is a code of conduct embodied in clothes to show mutual respect and friendship and achieve harmony in communication.
Clothing is a kind of culture, which reflects a nation's cultural level and the development of material civilization. Clothing has a strong performance function. In social activities, people can judge a person's status and self-restraint by clothes. Clothing can show the individual's inner pursuit of beauty and reflect his own aesthetic feelings; Clothing can improve a person's appearance and temperament, so clothing is the unity of inner beauty and outer beauty.
In order to create a truly beautiful self, we must first master the etiquette norms of dress, and let the harmonious and decent dress show our talents and aesthetic qualities, so as to obtain a higher social status. [Editor] Dressing principles Although dressing has different effects due to different preferences and styles, it has also made a colorful clothing world, but we still have some basic principles to follow according to people's aesthetics and aesthetic psychology.
(1) The principle of neatness refers to the principle of neatness, which is the most basic principle of dress. A well-dressed person can always give people a positive feeling, and also show respect for each other and attention to social activities.
The principle of neatness does not mean fashion and luxury, as long as the clothes are kept clean and tidy. (II) Personality Principle Personality principle refers to the requirement of establishing personal image in social occasions.
Different people will naturally form different temperament because of age, personality, occupation, cultural accomplishment and other reasons. When we choose clothes to dress up, we should not only conform to our personal temperament, but also highlight our beautiful temperament. Because of this, we must know ourselves deeply, know ourselves correctly and choose clothes that suit us, so that our clothes can show elegance. To make the dress full of personality, we should also pay attention to: first of all, don't blindly follow the trend, because the most fashionable things are often the most lifeless.
Secondly, wear your own personality and don't blindly imitate others. If people look good in bucket pants, follow suit immediately.
Regardless of their own comprehensive factors. (3) Harmony Principle The so-called harmony principle refers to the principle of coordination and appropriateness.
In other words, when choosing clothes, you should not only coordinate with your body shape, but also match your age and skin color. Clothing is an art that can cover up some shortcomings of body shape.
With the help of clothes, we can create the illusion of a beautiful figure. Whether tall or thin, young or old, you can always create the charm of clothes by carefully selecting clothes that suit you according to your own characteristics.
(4) T.P.O Dress Principle T.P.O is the abbreviation prefix of English words time, place and occupation, that is, the dress principle of time, place and occasion. A dress that is considered beautiful may not be suitable for all occasions, times and places.
Therefore, dressing should consider these three factors. The time principle of dress, including the change of time in the morning, middle and evening every day; The difference between spring, summer, autumn and winter and the changes of the times.
The orientation principle of dress refers to the environmental principle. That is, different environments need corresponding clothes.
The principle of dress occasion refers to the principle of occasion atmosphere. That is, the dress should be coordinated with the local atmosphere at that time.
The three elements of the clothing T.P.O principle are interrelated and complementary. People always engage in social activities and work at a specific time, place and place, so when you dress, you should consider what to wear. How to wear it? This is the beginning of your success in society.
(5) The principle of color matching of clothing The beauty of clothing is the perfect unity of style beauty, material beauty and color beauty. Form, quality and color set off each other and depend on each other, forming a unified whole of clothing beauty. In life, the beauty of color is the first to attract people's attention, because color is the most sensitive and fastest to people's vision and will leave a deep impression on others.
The collocation of clothing colors should follow general aesthetic common sense. The colors between clothing and clothing, clothing and accessories, accessories and accessories should be harmonious and bright.
Jewelry can only play the role of "finishing touch" and should not pretend to be the owner. Clothing color should be changed on the basis of unity, and the balance between skin and clothing, clothing and decoration, decoration and decoration should be sought on the basis of change.
It is generally believed that the color of lining and fabric, the color of a certain color in clothes and the color of accessories can all be matched. There are three methods for clothing color matching: 1. Same color collocation: namely, the colors with similar or identical colors and different brightness are matched with each other to create a unified and harmonious effect.
For example, dark green with light green, brown with beige and so on. When matching the same color, you should master the upper brightness and lower darkness, and the upper brightness and lower darkness.
In this way, there is a sense of stability and practicality on the whole. 2. Similar color matching: Chromology means that adjacent colors within about 90 degrees on the color ring are similar colors.
Such as blue and green, red and orange. When matching similar colors, the lightness and purity of the two colors should be staggered. For example, it is more appropriate to use a lighter green with a darker blue.
#p# Paging title #e# 3. Dominant tone collocation: refers to choosing a dominant tone and dominant tone, which is suitable for all kinds of colors and produces the effect of setting off each other and complementing each other. Using this color matching method, we must first determine the tone of the whole dress, then choose the main color consistent with the tone, and finally choose a variety of auxiliary colors.
If the main color is not selected properly, it will easily lead to confusion and damage the overall image, so be careful when using it. [Editor] The factors to be considered in clothing color selection are not only the collocation between colors, but also the collocation with the wearer's age, body shape, skin color, personality and occupation.
(1) regardless of skin color and age, people of all ages have the right to dress themselves up. But when dressing up, it should be noted that people of different ages have different dress requirements.
Young people can wear bright, lively and casual clothes, which can fully reflect the beauty of youth of young people; The dress of middle-aged and elderly people should pay attention to solemnity, elegance and implication, reflect their maturity and dignity, and fully show the beauty of maturity. But no matter what age, as long as the dress is in harmony with the age, it can show its unique charm.
5. What are the basic etiquette knowledge of personal dress?
Basic etiquette knowledge of personal dress: principles to be followed in dress.
Personality principle
The principle of individuality means that clothing should embody individual unique style. Everyone's age, sex, body shape, occupation, identity and so on are different. And this is the first consideration when dressing. The most important thing for young people is not to blindly follow suit. When thousands of popular clothes are produced, it often drowns people's personality. At the same time, since popular clothes are popular, it is impossible to last too long, and new popular clothes appear in the blink of an eye. If a person can choose clothes according to his own personality, he can often show his unique charm.
Principle of combining ceremony
The principle of gift combination means that clothes have important etiquette functions and should be distinguished according to different occasions. The general principle is: in business occasions, the dress should be traditional and conservative; In social occasions, dress should be fashionable and personalized; In leisure situations, it is comfortable and natural to wear. Don't confuse these, otherwise others will think them inappropriate.
Coordination principle
The principle of coordination means that clothing should be coordinated with physical condition, age and occasion. For example, jackets and jeans can often give people a youthful aesthetic feeling, but short people wear this kind of clothing, and the effect is not ideal; A wide sweater can often set off a man's solid and stalwart figure, but a tall and thin man shows two slender legs under a wide coat, which is very asymmetrical. Women must not wear gorgeous clothes on solemn occasions, otherwise it will be dazzling.
6. Han clothing knowledge
Hanfu or Hanfu is the abbreviation of traditional Han costumes: it mainly refers to the Han costumes formed in the process of natural and cultural development and ethnic blending before the end of Ming Dynasty.
As an independent clothing system, Hanfu has formed a unique cultural background and national style in the historical development, that is, it has formed distinctive style characteristics, which is obviously different from the traditional clothing of other ethnic groups in China and any other ethnic groups in the world, and is qualitatively different from modern clothing in standard styles. Han costumes are extensive and profound.
7. What is the common sense about manners and manners?
1. Tour guides should wear simple, neat and generous clothes at work; Male tour guides should put long-sleeved shirts in their pants before and after, and pants should not be rolled up; In summer, male tour guides should wear undershirts and shorts, not sandals barefoot. Female tour guides should wear miniskirts. Male tour guides are not allowed to wear slippers and vests in and out of hotel rooms.
When entering the room, men should take off their hats, and both men and women should take off their coats and windbreakers. Don't wear sunglasses. 3. Sitting and standing posture should be correct and natural, not lazy and casual, legs and feet can't tremble, the body can't swing, and you can't step on other people's seats; They don't shrug their shoulders when they walk, and their movements are not frivolous.
4. Pay attention to cleanliness. Male tour guides should have a normal head of hair, shave every day, often manicure their nails and cut their nose hair in time; During the tour, tour guides are not allowed to eat foods with peculiar smell such as onions, garlic and leeks; No spitting. 5. Don't yawn and pick your teeth in front of tourists; Develop the habit of coughing and sneezing, cover your nose and mouth with your hands and face aside; Don't pick your ears, nose, dirt and shoes in front of guests.
8. What are the traditional costumes in ancient China?
Hanfu, also known as Chinese clothing, is the traditional clothing of the Han nationality in China. During the 4,000 years from the accession of the Yellow Emperor (about 2698 BC) to the end of the Ming Dynasty (A.D.1mid-7th century), the etiquette and costume system remained unchanged for thousands of years through the * * * dynasty, centering on Chinese etiquette culture.
Since Huangdi and Yao Shun ruled the world by hanging down their clothes, Hanfu has taken a basic shape. After the inheritance of etiquette and law in the Zhou Dynasty, a perfect costume system was formed, which was popularized to the people in the Han Dynasty and influenced the whole Chinese cultural circle through Confucianism and Chinese legal system. The basic characteristics of Hanfu are horizontal lapel and straight lapel, which are tied with rope and also with hooks, supplemented by rolled lapel and straight lapel.
Structurally, Hanfu is divided into ten parts: collar, lapel, armband, cuff, sleeve, cuff, cuff and tie. A complete Hanfu usually has three layers: underwear, underwear and coat.
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