What is the Li nationality's "Hongteng Lijin"?

For more than 3,000 years, Li Jin's craft has been praised as a "living fossil" in the textile history of China. Before the Song Dynasty, the cotton textile technology of the Li nationality in Hainan was far ahead of that of the Han nationality in the Central Plains, and later shrub cotton was gradually introduced to the south of China from Hainan Island. In 2006, the traditional spinning, dyeing, weaving and embroidery skills of Li nationality were listed in the national intangible cultural heritage representative list project. Now we are applying for world cultural heritage. The three characteristics of traditional brocade of Li nationality are original ecology, authenticity and origin.

Li Jin is beautifully made, colorful, full of exaggeration and romance, with exquisite patterns and harmonious colors. Flowers, birds, animals and figures are lifelike, and it has its own national characteristics in spinning, weaving, dyeing and embroidery. Li brocade is mainly embroidered, dyed and flowered, with less embroidery. Dyes are mainly made from wild or domestic plants in mountainous areas. These dyes are brightly colored and do not fade easily. According to their own preferences, Li people everywhere have created various skills of weaving, dyeing and embroidery. For example, the Li nationality in Baisha County has a kind of double-sided colored embroidery, which is exquisite and colorful, unique and has the beauty of "Shuang Mianxiu" in Suzhou. Li Jin is mainly made of cotton thread, supplemented by hemp thread, silk thread and gold and silver thread. The Li nationality in the east and the Yangtze River valley created a brocade technology combining tie-dyeing and weaving. Warp yarns are usually dyed by tie-dyeing. The warp yarns are woven on the binding frame and then bound with yarns. After dyeing, the yarn is removed, that is, the pattern of blue and white flowers appears, and then it is woven into colored weft. Textile and knitting tools still use ancient traditional tools, such as hand-rubbing cross bars, wooden hand-ginning machines, pedal spinning machines and looms. Li Jin's varieties include women's skirts, tops, trousers, bed sheets, headscarves, belts, bags, shawls, shoes and hats, etc. There are more than 100 patterns of Li Jin, including horses, deer, turtledoves, snakes, frogs, peacocks, chickens, bamboo, rice, flowers, water, clouds and stars, which are mostly composed of simple straight lines, parallel lines and geometric figures such as squares, triangles and diamonds. In color, he is good at using light and shade, and the four colors of cyan, red, black and white cooperate with each other to form an artistic effect with strong color contrast. Brocade design of Li nationality is a cultural phenomenon that reflects women's aesthetic consciousness, lifestyle, cultural customs, religious beliefs and artistic accumulation. Its content mainly reflects the production, life, marriage and love, religious activities and legendary auspicious or beautiful images of the Li nationality.

According to incomplete statistics, there are more than 100 kinds of brocade patterns, which can be roughly divided into humanoid patterns, animal patterns, plant patterns, geometric patterns, and patterns reflecting daily production appliances, natural phenomena and Chinese characters symbols. Among them, figures, animals and plants are the most commonly used brocade patterns.

According to historical records, at the end of the Song Dynasty and the beginning of the Yuan Dynasty, Huang Daopo in the Yangtze River Delta learned cotton textile technology from Li women, and then returned to the mainland to promote it, which set off a "cotton revolution" that lasted for a hundred years, filling the blank of silk and linen textiles in the Central Plains. "Kim lee Li, who can be passed down from generation to generation, is very rare. This is because people are working on the project and people are ruined. After the death of every Li woman, their tapestries became funerary objects. Coupled with the strong acidity of the land in the south-central part of Hainan Island, these buried Li Jin will soon be corroded and festered, and it is difficult for future generations to find their traces in the ancient tombs. " Experts say that because of this, the works that Li Jin can pass down are generally precious cultural relics, highlighting the historical and cultural value of Li Jin. With the development of the times, the custom of being buried with Li Jin gradually disappeared, and this kind of red vine Li Jin became a must-have item for every Li family. Usually, local Li people wear such clothes when hunting and chopping wood in the mountains to avoid being stabbed by thorns in the mountains. It is understood that the production process of this kind of brocade is very complicated. At present, only the older Li women know how to make it. It is said that Li women first cut red vines on the mountain, cut them into pieces, then cooked them in a cauldron for more than half a month, and finally woven them. The Li brocade woven by this method is simple in style and durable.