Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional stories - Where are the traditional famous dishes?
Where are the traditional famous dishes?
As early as more than 3,000 years ago, in the Western Zhou Dynasty, raising pigs and killing dogs had become a profession. Cattle, sheep, dogs, dolphins, chickens, and geese successively boarded the banquet, and eight kinds of precious delicacies cooked by various cooking methods appeared, which was known as the "eight treasures" of the Western Zhou Dynasty. At the same time, it also summarizes the experience of cooking in four seasons. In Zhou Li Tianguan, it is recorded that everything is sour in spring, bitter in summer, bitter in autumn, salty in winter and smooth and sweet. Xianyang and Chang 'an, the capitals of Qin and Han Dynasties, inherited the cooking skills of ancient Haojing on the one hand, and absorbed the advantages of Chu cuisine on the other. "Salt and Iron Theory" records: "Today's cooked food is all over the list, confusing the city." It shows that more than 2,000 years ago, there were more and more butchers, distillers and sellers of meat, cakes and mutton tripe in Chang 'an. Especially in the period of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, the Silk Road was opened, and spices and vegetables such as walnuts, peppers, carrots and spinach were introduced from the western regions, which promoted the cultural exchanges between the East and the West and further developed and perfected the Qin Dynasty. By the early Tang Dynasty, the economy was prosperous, the neighborhood was friendly, the culture was developed, the diets of all ethnic groups were widely exchanged, observed and used for reference, the dishes were rich and varied, and the cooking skills were significantly improved. According to the book "A Study of the Scholars in the Tang Dynasty", the catering market in Chang 'an in the Tang Dynasty has reached a considerable scale. At that time, there were many restaurants, restaurants and tea shops in the east and west markets, especially Zhangjialou Hotel in the west market, which was very large and famous for its food. In the middle of Tang Dynasty, Qujiang banquet was once very popular. According to Youyangza, the food raw materials in Chang 'an at that time were "red lips, cinnamon, Lithospermum, Tibetan litchi branches, tremella, bear's paw" and so on, which were "unknown to people". Precious foods include "Xiao's wonton", which can be cooked by soaking in soup oil; Yu Jia jiaozi, Bai Yu; John can make a cherry gong with the same color. Therefore, as early as 1000 years ago, the dietary dishes in ancient Chang 'an had reached a very high level.
Throughout the local flavor of Shaanxi cuisine, the meals and drinks are mainly palaces, official residences and folk dishes in previous dynasties, supplemented by hermits, ethnic minorities and street restaurants. The dishes in the imperial palace and official residence are represented by roast suckling pig, cucurbit chicken, fish in milk soup pot, eight-treasure rice and thousand-layer cake. The dishes of hermits and ethnic minorities, such as fancy platter, medlar stewed tremella, mutton bread in soup, preserved mutton and sesame seed cake, are very popular among the masses. Folk and market-oriented dishes are famous all over the world for making money to send vegetables, crispy, seafood gourd head, yellow persimmon and jujube paste. Today's Qin family has greatly improved and developed compared with the previous dynasty. Especially around War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression and since the founding of the People's Republic of China, famous chefs from Shaanxi, Hebei, Shandong, Henan, Huaiyang, Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Sichuan, Hunan, Anhui and Guangdong provinces have gathered in xi 'an. After several excavations, they sorted out the traditional famous dishes, brought forth the old and brought forth the new, absorbed the essence of various places, and accepted everything, and gradually formed a unique Qin Youjia system, which was highlighted in the following three aspects.
First, the cooking methods are both old and new, paying attention to firepower. Modern Qin Zhuan not only inherited and developed the brewing, stewing, frying, stewing and frying in Han and Tang Dynasties, but also improved and developed the roasting, roasting, stewing, steaming and boiling in Zhou and Qin Dynasties, and also absorbed the foreign frying, roasting, rinsing, exploding and stirring techniques, especially the steaming, stewing, stewing and frying techniques. For example, stew is important, and both martial arts and fire are used, focusing on slow fire; The frying temperature should be suitable, but it is important to keep a constant temperature; Boiling water is necessary, but it is important to be instant; Cooking is urgent, and it is important to flip in the air. In particular, many well-known brands adopt comprehensive cooking methods, such as gourd chicken, which is cooked first, then steamed and then fried; Double crispness is the method of soaking first, then pickling, and then pouring soup Generally, dishes cooked in this way can maintain the true color, original flavor, prototype and original juice of food, and maintain its original nutrition, so as to be crisp without losing color (such as double crispness, etc.). ), fresh and tender without losing taste (such as Phnom Penh cabbage, etc.). ), crisp and shapeless (such as gourd chicken, etc.). ), plump without losing its juice (such as fish in a milk soup pot, etc.). ) and fresh without losing its nutrition (such as medlar stew).
Second, in seasoning, the priorities are clear, and the ingredients are heavy and strong. Qin Zhuan maintains the true color of food, without adding sugar and using less soy sauce; Salt, vinegar, garlic, mixed noodles and various seasonings are more prominent. Pay special attention to the use of salt, which is the flavor of seasoning. There is a folk saying that "a good cook has a handful of salt", which means that the time and dosage of salt are moderate. As for the taste of Qin Zhuan, according to Fu Jian Zhai Ji, the former Qin emperor Fu Jian learned from his brother's son, Fu Lang, that he was very good at tasting. On one occasion, he would host a banquet for Fu Lang in Wang Sima Daozi, including all the delicacies in the south of the Yangtze River. After eating, Daozi asked Fu Lang, "How can Guanzhong cuisine taste better than Jiangnan cuisine?" Fu Lang replied, "Everything is fine, but Guanzhong cuisine is a little salty." Afterwards, Daozi testified to the chefs certified by Fu Lang, who were all the same as Fu Lang. It can be seen that as early as the Southern and Northern Dynasties, there was a saying that Qin cuisine was "salty".
Third, in material selection, quality comes first, and coarse materials are refined. Chef Qin Zhuan is more important than material selection. The same is chicken and fish. Because of different varieties and different places of origin, the color and taste of the dishes are very different. Therefore, the traditional practice of famous restaurants such as Xi 'an Restaurant is that if it is not Japanese chicken and Yellow River carp worm in Sanyan Village, it will not be famous dishes such as gourd chicken and crispy fish. For example, there are many parts of pigs and their uses are different. If there is no tenderloin, we won't cook shredded pork, diced meat, sliced meat and braised tenderloin. Vegetables are very seasonal, and the quality of each period has changed. Chef Qin is generally good at choosing fresh seasons. Some people think that fresh vegetables can only be made into low-grade dishes, which are not elegant. Shaanxi chefs not only use vegetables as delicious ingredients, but also make famous dishes with good fragrance, taste and shape, such as fried Toona sinensis fish, Phnom Penh cabbage and other traditional local dishes in Shaanxi.
The basic characteristics of Qin Zhuan can be summarized as follows: the dishes are ancient and civilized, colorful, the noodles are elegant and popular, rich and varied, the ingredients are heavy and refreshing, and the color is simple and harmonious.
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