Where can I find Hanfu in Fuzhou?

Huian women's dress is a very unique Hanfu.

In the Chongwutuo area in the east of Hui 'an, women dress up according to the ancient tradition, and their costumes are unique. Although it has evolved slightly for thousands of years, the style still exists.

In addition to being too blue, apple green and black, there are willow stripes on a white background or green and white stitching, and the colors are very bright. Wearing a diagonal cardigan (cardigan) is short and narrow, with tight body, sleeves and bust. The length of the shirt is only at the navel position, revealing the belly and showing the beautiful curve of the delivery section; The sleeves are less than half the length of the forearm and tight, and the arc of the coat hem is oval. Most of the pants in the lower body are black, and the pants are very wide, and the pants only reach the navel.

The silver trouser chain on the belt is an important part of Huidong women's peculiar decoration. When they put on wide-tube black trousers, they usually tie them tightly with four to eight woven belts (usually woven with beautifully patterned colored plastic wires) and hang them on their hips with silver trouser chains to set off the curves of their waist and hips; Married women use some silver training pieces to tie their pants. In the past, there were only one or two silver trouser chains, and only three at most. Later, it gradually increased to five or seven, and now the most is nine. Those silver trouser chains are usually one of the gifts that men must give when they get married.

The decorations on the head are mainly headscarves and hats. Headscarves come in different colors and small patterns, either blue-green with white flowers or red with white flowers and green flowers. When wearing a headscarf, decorate it with plastic flowers of different sizes and styles. The yellow hat with a round spire is decorated with four green plastic buttons and several plastic flowers, and some even put cards of color photos or pop songs in the hat. The headscarf covers the chin on both sides of the cheek, and the face covers only a narrow part of the eyes, nose and mouth. The hat is worn so low that it is difficult for acquaintances to recognize who is under the hat at once. In the early years, some women wore black hoods in the shape of two-horned animals with three sword-shaped silver hairpin inserted in their temples.

Because no matter in summer or winter, they always wrap their heads tightly, their bellies are exposed and their trousers are particularly wide, which is called "feudal head = = belly, saving shirts and wasting pants" by the people.

When Hui women go out, most of them wear refined silver bracelets, and half of the neatly folded small flower handkerchiefs are decorated in their waist shirt pockets and half are exposed. Holding a beautiful little bamboo basket in his hand.

With the development of the times, the costumes of Hui women are constantly changing, but their unique style and charm are enduring.

The Origin of Hui Women's Dress

Huidong people are the remnants of indigenous people (Guyue people) and have evolved into Han people through sinicization in past dynasties.

The origin of Huidong women's clothing should be a symbol to commemorate their own history and culture. In a certain historical period, it spread in the unconscious form of vulnerable groups. We can trace the overall style of Huidong women's clothing back to the Tang Dynasty. At this time, the people in Huidong have been sinicized, and the influence of China culture is inevitable. The Song Dynasty may be mature, but there are written records in the Ming Dynasty. In Zhang Yue's "Hui 'an County Records", it is recorded: "If the clothes are slightly beautiful, don't hide them, make friends with them ..." The Ming and Qing Dynasties did not have much influence on the clothing style, only in the Ming Dynasty.

The mainstream of Huidong women's dress originated from Miao Yao Department of Nanman Group. But in any case, we still found some influencing factors. The research on these factors shows that Huidong women's clothing has the influence of Yi people, such as pleated skirts, embroidered shoes, hats, satchels, bracelets and bracelets. Influenced by Miao nationality, many scholars also find some examples from customs and worship of butterfly mother; There are Dai influences, such as short clothes, bamboo hats and waist ornaments; The influence of Yao nationality, such as patterns. ...

According to the latest research, Chongwu people are descendants of Mongolians, so the color of Huidong women's clothing has the colors that Mongolians like-green, black and blue, such as Chengjiang Hanbao headscarf; There are also pleated skirts of Zhuang nationality and Buyi nationality, sleeves of Buyi nationality and clothes colors of Shui nationality.

It can be seen from the official clothes and casual clothes in Qing Dynasty that there is an influence in Huidong's clothing, especially the vest or a multi-button vest. Because this period was the late Qing Dynasty, it had a great influence on modern Huidong women's clothing.

To sum up, the mainstream of women's clothing in Huidong originated from the ancient Baiyue nationality, and embarked on its own clothing characteristics along the road of interaction with ancient Baiyue. In the process of historical inheritance, they constantly absorbed some clothing factors of other nationalities, and some variations appeared. According to Huang Jian's inheritance and variation of Huidong women's clothing.

Quangang Nvhong Shirt Pants

In Fengwei, Houlong, Nanpu and Shanzhai in Quangang District, no matter young, strong or old, as long as their husbands are still alive, they usually wear red shirts or red trousers (pink for unmarried girls and purple for widowed girls). Meet festive days, such as the Spring Festival, the ninth day of the first month, and the Lantern Festival; The child was born, full moon, four Zhou Yue, one year old; Brothers or children get married, parents, aunts and other elders and husbands are born or have coffins; Laying, erecting beams and nailing the foundation of the new house; When the building was completed or moved in, all the women in Quangang were wearing red shirts and trousers.

Legend has it that after the Northern Song Dynasty, people in most villages in northern Hui 'an (now Quangang District) made statues and offered sacrifices to Yang Yande in many palaces and temples to commemorate him. This Yang Yande (known locally as Master Wang) has a dark face, big ears and a red robe. Under the illumination of incense, it is very bright and dazzling, which makes people envy. Soon, the local local operas transplanted their gorgeous colors to the costumes. Whenever princes and nobles have festive activities or happy reunions, their wives or ladies wear red or light red shirts and trousers and decorate them with red ornaments and lanterns, which makes them more solemn and lively and adds a festive atmosphere.

In this way, women in red shirts and trousers are regarded as a symbol of wealth and happiness. As a result, women in Quangang followed suit and put on red shirts and trousers, which became a wonder of local costumes and formed a custom passed down from generation to generation.

Zhegu clothes Shi

Liaopu Village, near Zhegu Mountain, Donghai Town, Fengze District, Quanzhou, was the seat of Zhegu Inspection Office in ancient times, and the villagers took fishing as their profession. Women have been fishing in the sea since childhood, catching shrimps and crabs and selling them in the town streets. They are called Aunt Partridge and Aunt Lipu, and now they are called Miss Lipu. Due to the specific environment and life, they formed a unique dress custom.

The fisherman's clothes worn by aunt partridge are brown coarse cloth, inclined collar, wide sleeves and long lapels, and their colored canvas is dyed with Eucommia ulmoides or pig blood, which is durable and washable; Wear slightly wider black cloth pants; Put your long hair behind your head and tie it into a big bun; Flowers are strung into small wreaths, commonly known as "hairpin wreaths", and an ivory chopstick is inserted horizontally around the bun.

There are several theories about the origin of aunt partridge's costume, especially the custom of "the smell of flowers":

Yang Bajie's last words said

Some researchers believe that it is related to the eighteen caves of Yang Pingmin in the Song Dynasty, and it is the remains of the clothing of the Song Bajie.

However, Ye Guoqing, a professor of history at Xiamen University, believes that there are no civilians of Yang at all, and the "eighteen holes of civilians" are in the name of Yang, a general of the Song Dynasty. In fact, 58 surnames such as, father and son, Li, etc. entered Fujian in the early Tang Dynasty, rehabilitated barbarians, reclaimed land and planted grass, and developed Fujian. There is no basis for the influence of Yang Bajie's clothing on Beipu women's clothing.

Arab Heritage Theory in Song and Yuan Dynasties

Some researchers believe that aunt Chang Pu's hairpin circle is an Arab custom left over from the Song and Yuan Dynasties.

But Wang Dayuan of the Yuan Dynasty, Gong Zhen of the Ming Dynasty and Fei Xin have all been to Arab countries and seen Arab costumes. The dress they saw of Arab women was "wearing long gowns", with braided hair, braided hair, braided hair, perforated hair and bun, and there was no record of hairpin flowers. On the head, "the hijab can't see his face", "cover his head with silk handkerchief to show his face" and "cover his face with green gauze and cover his head with a curtain to show his appearance".

The dress of Arab women living in China during the Song and Yuan Dynasties, Song Zhuangzhuo's "Chicken Ribs" contains: "Persian women in Guangzhou wear six belts on their ears, with more than 20 pieces." In the Yuan Dynasty, Hui people liked to wear hoods, wraps or hijabs, while women used hoods to make hijabs, and they liked to decorate with pearls and jade, just like the decoration of Arabs in the Middle Ages. There is no record of hairpin flowers around. It is not convincing to say that "hairpin wreath" is a custom left over by Arabs in Song and Yuan Dynasties.

On Ancient Women's Decorative Heritage

As a folk custom, the flower hairpin head appeared as early as the Han Dynasty. The female figurines unearthed from Yangzi Han Tomb in Chengdu, Sichuan Province, have a huge chrysanthemum in the middle of the bun, and several small flowers are attached to both sides of the chrysanthemum.

After the Han Dynasty, the custom of hairpin flowers lasted for a long time among women, and most of them were seasonal flowers. For example:

Cornus officinalis: In the poem "The Daughter of Cornus officinalis" written by Emperor Liang Jianwen, "Cornus officinalis is born with a narrow mind and bears fruit in summer. When it comes to picking hands, it will be reflected in lead. Miscellaneous and awkward, even oblique. "

Rose: Huan's poem "Looking at Beauty Picking Roses" says: "The edges are rotten and everywhere."

Plum Blossoms: Liang Baoquan's poem Flowers in Yongmei says, "Poor plum blossoms are floating in the air. The curtain blew and the window landed on the comb table. At first I went by hand, and later I came because I jumped the queue. "

Pomegranate: In the poem "Crossing the Water with People" written by Emperor Liang Jian-wen, "You will be happy when Wan Wan arrives at the top. Vanilla in front and pomegranate next to it. "

Apricot flowers: Yi Chai Xiaozhi: "Ruan Yuanji used apricot flowers on his temples."

Tang Li: Tang Yuanzhen's poem "Village Evening Flowers" said: "The peaches and plums in the third spring have been injured, and the pears are gray and yellow. The daughters in the village are fighting for generals, and the thorns are exaggerated. "

Roses: Five Dynasties, Li Jian □ "Spring Poems": "Get roses, send the phoenix with a hairpin."

Jasmine: The Five Dynasties' Legacy of Ember Palace: "There are more than 665,438 plants in Kunning, with many flowers. Pick flowers and cluster them into balls every morning and put them on the bun. "

Generally speaking, there are many peonies in spring, pomegranates and jasmine in summer and chrysanthemums and okra in autumn. There are also hairpin palace flowers, which are made of raw materials such as Luo, silk and medulla tetrapanacis.

Different festivals have different hairpin flowers:

Last night: "Women all carry Zhu E, Yu Mei and Xue Liu." "Noisy moth", cut the ribbon and make it into the shape of flowers, butterflies and insects. "Yumei" is a plum blossom made of white silk. "Snow Willow" is a kind of flower cluster with silk flower.

Dragon Boat Festival: "Jasmine is in full bloom, and there are no fewer than 100 people flying inside and outside the city."

Beginning of autumn: "Inside and outside the capital, the streets are full of catalpa leaves in the morning. Women and children scramble to buy them, cut them into patterns and insert them in the temple to conform to the time sequence."

Double Ninth Festival: "Everyone is talking about drinking new wine and learning chrysanthemums."

In addition to women's hairpin flowers, the phenomenon of men's hairpin flowers existed in the Tang Dynasty, and it became more and more common in the Song Dynasty, and it also became a ritual ceremony.

"History of Song Dynasty Yu Fu Zhi" contains: "Zhongxing, suburban worship, after the ceremony, return to the funeral hall, courtiers and courtiers, and thank the public." It can be seen that officials and attendants attending important ceremonies at that time had to wear flowers.

In the folk wedding ceremony, according to the wedding custom in Song Dynasty, the groom can "wear one or two flowers, which is better than one or two." Victory means the victory of flowers, an ancient jewel.

The banquet of the imperial court in the Song Dynasty, "tasting the Spring and Autumn Period, worshiping in the suburbs, and the gift of the native land, is a feast when you are lucky, and it is called a Song banquet when you enter from the official." The emperor will present flowers to the ministers, and the ambassadors will insert them. A casual dinner between friends can also be spent. In case of national disaster, plague, death and other years. , can't spend.

Praise is not only aesthetic, but also symbolic to avoid evil. Jasmine can exorcise ghosts, and wearing chrysanthemums can prolong life.

Zanhua is the heritage of ancient women's decoration in China. There is a saying in the lyrics of "Peach Blossom Crossing" in Quanzhou Gaojia Opera that "flowers are around in April, and both ends of a hairpin are heavy". Many women in Quanzhou Hui 'an Luoyang, Nan 'an Fengzhou, Jinjiang Heshi, Shuangyang and other places still maintain the custom of "hairpin flowers around".

And headdress.

Some rural women in the suburbs of Quanzhou, including Jinjiang, Nan 'an and Hui 'an, keep the custom of "hairpin wreaths". Tie the budding or blooming flowers (smiles, magnolias or small flowers) with twine and wrap them around the bun for at most three or four times, with the same color. We also inserted a hairpin, a silver comb, a gold thread and a "Buddha thread", and hung large flowers on the temples to make the hair covered with green hair look bright and beautiful. It is said that it inherited the customs of Arabs in Song and Yuan Dynasties.