Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional stories - The present situation of snacks in Beijing
The present situation of snacks in Beijing
Beijing's flavor snacks have a long history, a wide variety, exquisite materials and fine production, and are famous far and near. "Du Men Zhu Zhi Ci" in the Qing Dynasty said: "The three big money sell flowers, cut cakes, and have a bowl of sweet porridge in the morning before eating tea and noodles; Sweet-eared frozen fruit fried cake, baked sesame seed cake hanging on the stove loves to nest, and the fork that has just been fired is called Bobo. The wonton of steamed dumplings is full of vegetables, and the newly added dumplings are good ... "These snacks are sold at temple fairs or street fairs, and people will come across them by accident, which is vividly called" eating "in old Beijing.
In summer in Beijing, I walked into a deep alley and heard shouts from time to time.
Following the sound, through several alleys, I saw several old locust trees, and neighbors, men, women and children, sat around the snack bar, drinking snacks and talking about their parents' shortcomings.
For old Beijingers, Beijing snacks are not only delicious food, but also represent the feeling of harmonious and leisurely life in the past. Now, looking around Beijing, this feeling seems hard to relive.
For a time, Beijing snacks are no longer a part of Beijing people's life as they used to be. In recent years, domestic and foreign catering enterprises frequently attack the Beijing market, and Beijing snacks that stick to the traditional business model often appear to be lacking in confidence in the face of market competition.
The disappearance of hutongs in the city and the change of traditional lifestyle have also made the traditional cultural atmosphere on which Beijing snacks depend fade away. For a time, except for a few booths at holiday temple fairs and one or two snack bars for tourists, Beijing snacks with limited customers gradually faded out of sight.
However, many people with business vision have not ignored the huge business opportunities contained in Beijing snacks. In recent two years, a number of centralized snack streets and snack franchisees have emerged, which once again attracted people's attention to Beijing snacks. These market players bring many time-honored brands into the door, and provide a modern marketing platform for Beijing snacks through centralized management and unified management.
Facts have proved that changing the traditional management mode and adopting modern management mode is indeed a shot in the arm to improve the living conditions of Beijing snacks, and it has achieved economic success. The fame spread, but frontispiece's Beijing snacks didn't taste right. It seems that it only satisfies the pleasure of the diners, but it can't provide the humanistic background and life interest outside the food.
The taste of Beijing snacks in the mouth is just one of them. The fun of looking for small shops through hutongs and alleys and the kindness of "talking about mountains" at the same table are all indispensable "ingredients" for Beijing snacks. Without these, the Beijing flavor of Beijing snacks will be greatly reduced. Looking at the uniform of waiters, lukewarm service attitude and snack prices that are two or three times higher than before, many old Beijingers think that Beijing snacks are "not as authentic as before".
Some old shopkeepers are also worried. Many old business rules that they used to value very much, such as giving snacks to regular customers or giving discounts to repeat customers, no longer exist. "After the implementation of centralized management, we must act in accordance with the regulations. Old customers are coming, so we have to pay for the goods. I am really a little uncomfortable in my heart. " At the same time, the financial pressure is also one of the main problems that plague the development of Beijing snacks.
Beijing snacks are a kind of food and a valuable intangible cultural heritage. Facing the pressure of market survival, Beijing snacks need to be changed, but not at the expense of losing cultural connotation. According to the experience of some countries in protecting and developing traditional industries, the relevant government departments should increase their support for Beijing snacks and give some financial subsidies to help some old shops retain their traditional business methods.
Snack operators should also learn to "lean on the old and sell the old", open their minds and use their intangible assets to increase the brand added value of Beijing snacks. At the same time, efforts should be made to explore new consumer groups, especially young people. A few years ago, Japanese TV broadcasted a youth idol drama "Sushi in Jiang Tai" with the theme of making traditional cuisine sushi, which set off a "sushi craze" among young people and further promoted people's interest in traditional cuisine. This propaganda idea is worth learning.
During the Beijing Olympic Games, traditional Beijing snacks, such as bean juice, inby, braised pork, fried liver, Dunbobo, bean paste and Aiwowo, were all translated into English that foreign tourists could understand. Some people say that bean juice is the last door for Beijingers. No matter how it changes, the inherent culture of Beijing snacks is its essence.
As a native of Beijing, I certainly like all kinds of delicious food in old Beijing. However, now Beijing snacks are declining, with mixed quality and poor hygiene. But for people who love Beijing snacks, Beijing snacks, as an old Beijing plot, are still easy to cause * * *. I think this is not just eating, but also a feeling of nostalgia.
The famous Beijing snacks are:
Pasta:
Aiwowo, Zhajiang Noodles, fire, snowballing, etc.
Hot pot category:
Stir-fried liver with bean sauce, stir-fried belly, stew and so on
Fried category:
Fried dough sticks, fried cakes, enema, inby, etc.
Drinks:
Sour plum soup, lotus seed porridge, etc.
Where can I eat authentic Beijing snacks?
Dong Hua Men Night Market
Sour, sweet, bitter, spicy and salty, eat whatever you want! Bean jelly, red sesame seed cake, lotus seed porridge, sour plum soup, red fruit cheese, almond tofu, mutton skewers, grilled lobster, grilled squid, fried grasshoppers, fried scorpions and fried silkworm chrysalis are numerous, complete and hygienic. From the New Dong 'an Market to Donghuamen Street, it is brightly lit and very lively.
Huguosi snack bar
Beijing snacks handed down from the temple fair "will eat" have been refined and refined, without the roughness of "being big, eating and full" in the past; Dunerbobo and jujube rolls are cute; Ginger fork and sugar ear are exquisite.
Jin Fang snacks
From the founding of the Republic of China to the present, snack bars include hemp pills, almond tea, Aiwowo, cream fried cakes, fried bumps and so on. Yuanxiao is the most famous, including hawthorn, green plum, hanging flowers, bean paste, assorted, cream, coconut and so on.
The famous snack street also includes:
Wangfujing snack street, Shichahai snack street (the original Qianmen snack was moved) and so on.
Beijing is an ancient cultural capital with a long history of snacks, and there are at least two or three hundred kinds of famous dishes and snacks.
Beijing cuisine is also called Beijing cuisine. Mainly refers to the palace cuisine (represented by Fangshan restaurant), palace cuisine (represented by Tan Jiacai), Muslim cuisine and local flavor dishes. Beijing local flavor dishes are transformed from Shandong cuisine and influenced by other cuisines (Guangdong, Zhou, Hunan, Shandong, Jiangsu, Fujian, Zhejiang and Anhui), and their varieties and tastes have changed. Roast duck, instant-boiled mutton and barbecue are three famous dishes unique to Beijing. Eight major cuisines are famous restaurants in Beijing. More famous is the Confucian cuisine operated by Confucius Restaurant.
Beijing snacks, commonly known as "dinner" or "vegetable tea", are a combination of snacks from Han, Hui, Mongolian, Manchu and court snacks in Ming and Qing Dynasties, with a wide variety and unique flavor. There are about two or three hundred kinds of snacks in Beijing. Including side dishes and wine (such as white water sheep head, fried belly, Bai Kui roast sheep head, mustard chopping board, etc.). ), pasta used at the banquet (such as steamed buns, minced meat biscuits, yangyaner steamed buns, Five Blessingg Shoutao, Ma Rongbao, etc.). ) and various snacks as snacks or early supper (such as Aiwowo, snowballing, etc.). ). Among them, bean juice, enema, fried liver, Mapo tofu and Zhajiang Noodles have the most Beijing flavor. Some time-honored brands specialize in making their own special varieties, such as Wo Wo from Fangshan Hotel, minced meat biscuits, pea yellow, kidney bean rolls, silver silk rolls from Fengzeyuan Hotel, cream fried cakes from Donglaishun Hotel, large enema from Heyizhai Hotel, baked steamed bread from the same family, mashed potatoes from Beijing Hotel, and sugar packets from Dashunzhai Power Plant. Other snacks are sold in snack bars and food stalls in Beijing night market.
"Du Men Zhu Zhi Ci" in Qing Dynasty wrote: "The three big money buy flowers and cut cakes, and there is a bowl of sweet porridge in the morning before eating tea and noodles; Fried sweet ears with preserved fruit cakes, sesame seeds baked in the oven, forks just sold on the fire, and hard noodles are called cakes; Steamed dumplings and wonton are all vegetables, and the newly added dumplings are good ... "This also shows that Beijing has always had many flavor snacks.
Beijing roast duck: known as "the best food in the world", it is a famous delicacy at home and abroad. Beijing roast duck includes stewed roast duck and hanging roast duck. Roast duck is roasted by the heat of the furnace wall. The temperature in the furnace is high first and then low, and the baked duck has crispy skin, full inner layer and fat but not greasy. Hanging furnace roast duck is a roast duck made of jujube, peach, pear and other fruit trees. Roast duck is tender in the outside and has a unique flavor.
Beijing instant-boiled mutton: castrated sheep in Xiwuzhumuqin Banner, Inner Mongolia is the best. Take the meat of crotch, crotch, cucumber strips and upper brain, about 13 kg. Cut out about 80 pieces of meat one inch wide and four inches long per catty. Seasonings used are sesame sauce, soy sauce, bean curd, chives, marinated shrimp oil, coriander, chopped green onion and so on. There are dried seaweed and dried mushrooms at the bottom of the pot. At the same time, it is served with vermicelli, Chinese cabbage, frozen tofu, sugar and garlic.
Beijing barbecue: including beef and mutton. The method of barbecue is to use the special tool of barbecue-iron barbecue. It is a round iron plate made of wrought iron, about two feet in diameter, with firewood burning below and barbecue on it. First, soak the sliced meat in the prepared seasoning, put the roasted iron piece on the table, wipe the surface of the iron piece with sheep tail oil, fire it with pine or pine cone, and put shredded onion on it. Put the meat slices soaked in seasoning on the shredded onion and turn them over with special chopsticks about a foot and a half long. When beef is sauce purple and mutton is white, it can be eaten. Eat while flanging.
Jiaozi, Beijing: It is a kind of northern food called "flat food". In old Beijing, it is called "boiled cake" by Manchu and Monkeys, and it is regarded as a delicious food. As the saying goes, "It's better when it's comfortable, not as delicious as jiaozi". Jiaozi can be divided into "meat jiaozi" according to its stuffing: mutton and cabbage stuffing, pork and leek stuffing, beef and sauerkraut stuffing, beef celery stuffing, pork and winter bamboo shoots stuffing, beef and carrot stuffing, pork and three fresh fillings (water bamboo, winter bamboo shoots and magnolia slices), as well as sea cucumber, shrimp, magnolia slices, chickens and ducks, and diced mushrooms. "Vegetarian jiaozi": A vegetarian cake made of fried foods (such as avocados and fried tofu), yellow flowers, fungus, mushrooms, carrots and Chinese cabbage.
Pot paste: The raw jiaozi is branded on the pot, which is called "pot paste".
Roast: There are two kinds of meat and vegetables. This rectangular fire sticks to each other, just like the "wallet" of the old fashion currency, hence the name "wallet fire". It tastes like pie, but its shape is different.
Crystal doornail: There are salty and delicious doornail patties in Beijing snacks, and there is also a sweet crystal doornail made of dough. When making, add proper amount of alkali powder and white sugar to the fermented dough and knead well. Spread the dough on paper, steam it in a cage, take it out, let it cool, roll it into a reed shape, dice it with pork suet, moss, melon seeds, raisins, sugar and osmanthus, and knead it evenly into crystal stuffing. The bread is 6.6 cm high and 3.3 cm thick, with a spherical top, mouth down and steamed in a cage. The crystal doornail is white in color, translucent in filling, soft and oily, sweet and delicious. The doornail patty is Muslim food, while the crystal doornail is China food.
Beijing rice cake: there are many varieties of colors. Only the varieties of cold cakes are pot cakes, stuffing cakes, rice cakes, bean powder cakes, tower cakes, Aiwowo, bean dregs cakes, burritos, lotus root cakes and zongzi. The materials used for highlighting are whole rice, broken rice and rice flour, and the cooking methods are also different.
Aiwowo is the most typical, shaped like a big circle and small. It is made by steaming glutinous rice, kneading it into a ball, stuffing it with white sugar, sesame, hawthorn and bean paste, and rolling it with dry rice flour. There is a folk proverb: "White glutinous rice is put into a steamer, and even cotton stuffing is rubbed with flour." Just like dumplings that don't need to be cooked, Muslims call them Aiwowo. "
"Rolling on a donkey" is to mix pea powder with soybean powder (or rice flour), steam it, roll it with bean paste stuffing, roll it in fried bean flour, and cut it into pieces when selling. Folks say, "Brown sugar and water stuffing are arranged skillfully, and yellow rice is buried with beans."
Zhajiang Noodles: The common one is diced pork fried sauce. Pure semi-fat diced pork with onion, ginger and garlic. It is fried in an oil pan, with yellow sauce, covered with a pot cover and simmered for 10 minutes. At this time, the diced meat was soaked in yellow sauce, the skin was red and bright, and the fragrance was overflowing. There are also vegetarian dishes such as sweet clover (egg) fried sauce, fried tofu diced sauce and roasted eggplant diced sauce, which are oily but not greasy. Noodles include green garlic, Toona sinensis buds, bean sprouts, green beans, shredded radish, blanched fresh peas, shredded cucumber, shredded lentils and leeks.
Sesame paste noodles: Sesame paste noodles are a light meal for old Beijingers in summer. After the noodles are cooked, take them out of the pot and soak them in cold water, then pour in sesame sauce (salt, mixed with water), pepper oil (pepper oil fried with sesame oil is put into soy sauce while it is hot), rice vinegar, and then add shredded carrots with pickled peppers, green garlic, shredded radish, bean sprouts and Toona sinensis buds. Tastes like scones and bean jelly.
Noodles with gravy: commonly known as "noodles with gravy". Brine is usually boiled pork soup or mutton stir-fry. Add yellow flowers, fungus and mushrooms, thicken and pour in eggs and flowers. There is also a kind of soup that does not thicken, and velvet antler is added to the soup to become the pouring juice of the clear soup. This soup is called "Parr halogen".
Spiral lions turn to children: half-hairy noodles are rolled into thin strips, sesame sauce and salt and pepper are added, and they are put together like snails. Flatten, bake in the pot first, and then bake in the yard. After baking, the crispy noodles outside are mysterious inside. Snails that can't be sold that day are baked once or twice, which is called "dry jump". Break it with one hand and it tastes crunchy.
Kidney bean roll: Kidney bean roll is a folk snack. It is said that one summer day in Guangxu period of Qing Dynasty, Empress Dowager Cixi overheard gongs and drums outside the red wall, and asked what it was for. She called a vendor and tasted his kidney bean rolls, which were delicious. So the man was left in the palace to make snacks for her, and kidney bean rolls became the treasure of the Qing palace.
Pea yellow: Boil peas, peel them, add sugar, sweet-scented osmanthus and jujube to make a paste, add gypsum, cool them, cut them into cubes and melt them in your mouth. It is a good summer product. It is a traditional summer snack in Beijing and was once a famous imperial meal in Qing Dynasty.
Bean juice: a typical Beijing food. It is used as a slurry of mung bean powder or dough powder and is made by fermentation. Cook it in the pot before eating. It has a particularly sour taste when drinking. When drinking bean juice, it is usually accompanied by inby and shredded spicy kimchi.
Inby's son, also known as "Little Oil Ghost", is a double-sided doughnut like a bracelet. Stir-fry for a long time, until it is brown, and it tastes crisp and fragrant. Once upon a time, Beijing porridge shop paid attention to eating horseshoe biscuits with inby and drinking sweet porridge for breakfast. Inby is usually accompanied when drinking bean juice. Yingbi's son was a food in the imperial dining hall of the Qing Dynasty.
Crispy: Crispy is also a kind of oil cake, but this kind of oil cake is particularly thin, even to the degree of "transparency", and it tastes particularly crisp, hence the name "crisp".
Braised pork: It is also made of flour, soft and transparent, like bean jelly and tofu. It is also cut into small pieces and fried in a pot, using only ordinary oil.
Enema: It is a favorite snack of Beijingers and a very popular street snack. Enema began in Ming dynasty. There are two kinds of enema: one is large enema, which is washed with pig fat intestines, mixed with high-quality flour, red yeast water, cloves, cardamom and other raw materials 10, poured into the intestines, cooked, cut into small pieces, fried with pigs, and poured with salted garlic juice to taste crispy and salty. The other is called small enema, which is made of starch, red rice water and bean curd residue into thick paste, steamed and cut into small pieces, fried in lard and eaten with salted garlic juice. The enema is tender outside and tender inside, and it is quite distinctive to eat with bamboo sticks.
Camellia oleifera: Camellia oleifera is a good nourishing snack in Beijing. It is prepared by frying flour in a pot until the color turns yellow and the hemp seeds turn brown, adding osmanthus fragrans and bovine bone marrow oil, mixing and kneading evenly, then putting the evenly kneaded tea into a bowl, adding sugar, and washing it into paste with boiling water. Camellia oleifera tastes sweet and can be used as breakfast or lunch, which is deeply loved by the people.
Noodle tea: Noodle tea has nothing to do with "tea". It is a thick porridge made of millet flour and glutinous rice flour. Add a layer of sesame paste and a little pepper and salt to the bowl. Drinking noodles is very particular about how to eat. When eating, you don't need chopsticks, spoons and other tableware. You just need to circle the bowl with one hand to finish the bowl. I'm afraid non-Beijingers can't eat this way. Why do you eat like this? This is related to the taste of noodle tea.
Sour Plum Soup: It is a summer-heat and thirst-quenching drink made by the imperial dining hall of the Qing Dynasty for the emperor, and later spread to the people. It is 150 years earlier than the introduction of soda from western Europe to China. The raw materials of sour plum soup are dark plum, sweet-scented osmanthus, rock sugar and honey. "Compendium of Materia Medica" says: "Those who pick semi-yellow in Shi Mei use ebony." It can clear away heat and cold, relieve pain, and even treat cough, cholera and dysentery. The fairy tale "The Legend of the White Snake" tells the story of the Wu Mei epidemic. After the ebony is soaked, it is boiled with rock sugar, honey and sweet-scented osmanthus, and it becomes sour plum soup after being chilled.
Look at me so tired, give me a hard point!
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