Yun brocade, woof is what is the thing to seek answers

Yun brocade One of the traditional brocade. Ming and Qing Dynasty for the court weaving. There are a number of government-run weaving bureau production, used for court dress, reward and so on. Since the late Qing Dynasty began to have commercial production, the industry to produce the name of the cloud brocade, phoenix its rich and luxurious, gorgeous as the clouds and the name. Modern only Nanjing production, often called Nanjing brocade. Modern brocade inherited the traditional style of the Ming and Qing dynasties and development, the traditional varieties of makeup flowers, library brocade, library satin and other categories (see makeup flowers, library brocade, library satin), the library gold, library brocade and so on in the Qing Dynasty weaving after the input of the Interior House satin library and the name, used to this day. Make-up fabrics are on behalf of the characteristics of the Yunjin technique and style varieties, pattern layout rigorous and solemn, pattern modeling concise generalization, mostly large full pattern for the four sides of the continuous arrangement, but also through the width of the horse for a separate, suitable for the pattern of large make-up fabrics (such as the Ming and Qing Dynasty dragon robe, kang mattress carpet cushion, etc.) with the color of the strong contrast, often with a gold line outlined or gold, silver line decorative pattern, through the white or the color of the halo transition to weft tube small shuttle dug flowers decorated with color, and the color of the fabrics. The small shuttle of the weft tube to dig flowers decorated with color, the weaving of the canonical and thick, gold and color reflecting, is the Yunjin brocade is different from Shu brocade, Song brocade and other brocade brocade important features. After the founding of the country, on the basis of traditional varieties of innovative varieties, such as rainbow brocade, Dunhuang brocade, gold and silver makeup, diamond brocade, decorative brocade and table blankets, cushions, etc., to supply the Mongolian and Tibetan brotherhood costumes and painting and calligraphy framing, tourist souvenirs, foreign trade and other needs.

Nanjing brocade is a kind of jacquard silk crafts, for the first of the three treasures of Nanjing crafts, and Suzhou woof and known as the two famous brocade. Nanjing brocade with up to eighteen colors, the use of color halo layer by layer to launch the main flower, rich and elegant, solid texture, pattern thick and beautiful, colorful and solemn, a lot of use of gold thread, the formation of a unique style of gold and blue. Yun brocade used to be exclusively for the imperial court or the reward of merit, now in addition to ethnic minorities to do clothing, but also exported to foreign countries to do high-grade clothing fabrics.

Yun brocade process is unique, with the old-fashioned jacquard wooden machine weaving, must be jacquard workers and weavers two people to cooperate to complete the two people a day can only produce 5-6 centimeters, this process still can not be replaced by machines. The main feature of Yun brocade is the different colors of flowers by flowers, and the colors of the flowers on the embroidery are different when viewed from different angles of the brocade. Because it is used for royal costumes, Yun brocade is often made with exquisite materials, sparing no effort and striving for excellence in weaving. Yun brocade like to use gold thread, silver thread, copper thread and filament, silk, a variety of birds and animals feathers used to weave brocade, such as in the royal brocade embroidery on the green is weaved with peacock feathers, each brocade pattern has its own specific meaning. If you want to weave a 78-centimeter-wide brocade, there are 14,000 silk threads on its weaving surface, all the composition of the floral pattern will be in the 14,000 threads on the shuttle, from the establishment of the warp and woof of the silk threads to the final weaving, the whole process is as complex and arduous as programming a computer.

Woof The birth of brocade should be attributed to the woof of Suzhou, which is actually an accessory derived from the woof of Suzhou. Suzhou silk weaving industry started in the period of Eastern Wu (222 - 280), and at the end of Eastern Jin Dynasty (317 - 420), general Liu Yu went on a northern expedition, and after destroying the Qin Dynasty, he moved all the workers in Chang'an to Jiankang (now Nanjing), which was very close to Suzhou at that time. Therefore, a large number of Suzhou woof craftsmen moved to Nanjing. The brocade weavers in the post-Qin Dynasty inherited the brocade weaving techniques of the two Han dynasties, Cao Wei, Western Jin Dynasty and the ethnic minorities in the pre-Sixteen Kingdoms period. In 417, the Eastern Jin Dynasty set up the Jin Agency in Jiankang, an official office specializing in the management of brocade, which is regarded as the symbol of the official birth of brocade in Nanjing. From the Yuan Dynasty onwards, brocade has been the royal dress specialties, the Qing Dynasty in Nanjing with Jiangning Weaving Department, "Dream of Red Mansions" author Cao Xueqin's grandfather, Cao Yin, was Jiangning Weaving for 20 years.