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The symbolic function of national costume color evolves with the evolution of history. One of the important and inevitable trends is that clothing color has got rid of the historical burden of animal instinct or totem, religion and remembering history and explaining customs, and has become a foil for people to beautify their lives and show their national psychological characteristics. This is a civilization and progress in the history of human development, because the more human beings develop, the stronger the spiritual connotation of aesthetics will be and the higher the requirements for clothing color will be.

The color beauty of clothing is a very important issue. Some scholars who study color have put forward seven principles of color collocation: unification, setting off, embellishment, echo, blocking, buffering and linking. Generally speaking, solemn and simple styles are often composed of dark colors, while light and lively styles are often composed of light series colors. Through clever selection and collocation, and through the transition between colors, people produce a feeling similar to the beautiful melody in music, which is the extremely high level of color application. In addition, the psychological effects of color also include: a sense of contraction and a sense of expansion. Generally speaking, black and dark colors have a sense of contraction, while white and light colors have a sense of expansion; When people see red, orange and yellow, they often think of the sun and fire of the same color, which brings a warm feeling, while colors such as cyan, blue and purple often remind people of sea water and night sky, which brings a cold feeling, and so on. After long-term life practice, all ethnic groups have consciously or unconsciously used these functions of color, so that clothing color has its own personality.

Many ethnic minority women's clothes mostly use colorful and bright red and green materials, which have strong ethnic characteristics. For example, women's underwear with Nie Su's waist of Yi nationality in Eshan, Xinping and Shiping counties of Yunnan Province is made of two or more contrasting fabrics. The whole body is mainly red, alternating with red and black, and alternating with green, blue and white, which is bright and pleasing to the eye and beautiful. The back is decorated with rainbow ribbons made of five-color strips and embroidered with various patterns, indicating that the sun shines all around.

The colors of national costumes reflect different styles and give people different aesthetic feelings. Dulong costumes give people a simple and rough impression; Miao, Yao, Buyi and other ethnic costumes are exquisite in workmanship, rich in color and rich in decorative significance. Most of them are yellow, red, blue, green, white and other contrasting colors, woven, embroidered, picked and dyed. Colorful and harmonious, the patterns are numerous but not chaotic, which shows the unique artistic talent and aesthetic psychology of women and has become a powerful tool for all ethnic groups to express their aesthetic feelings and ideals.

It can be predicted that with the development of minority society, the color of national costume as an aesthetic symbol will have the following three characteristics:

1, utilitarian and practical clothing colors will continue to leap in the aesthetic direction. Due to the great differences in the social development of ethnic minorities, the concept of "beauty" in many ethnic costumes mainly comes from their own cultural concepts, that is, "goodness" and "truth" are beauty, and the aesthetic law of color itself has not really played a role, which is expected to make a big breakthrough in the future.

2. The "beauty" objectively expressed by the colors of national costumes is mostly instinctive and unconscious. With the deepening of color practice, people will have a further understanding and grasp of the nature and laws of color, and will be freed from instinct, complete a leap in color application, and achieve true consciousness.

3. The color of national costumes will gradually change from expressing the aesthetic consciousness of the group to expressing individuality and freedom, which is a symbol of social equality, civilization and prosperity.

In short, with the development of society, the aesthetic needs of social members derived from animal instinct are summoned and highlighted, and the aesthetic law of color begins to play a role. This phenomenon of consciously adjusting the color of costumes according to aesthetic needs is very common in national costumes. In order to add some color and beauty to their clothes, they follow certain rules and laws of color expression and create a "meaningful form" of clothing color.

The finishing touch of national costume art

Women of all ethnic groups in Yunnan are not only skillful weavers, but also experts in embroidery. Starting from beautifying themselves, they embroidered beautiful patterns that can best express decorative art on hats, collars, cuffs, chest bags, waists, shoes and satchels, giving them beautiful meanings.

When you walk into the national folk arts and crafts museum of Yunnan National Museum, this kind of folk art is not only practical, but also has appreciation value and aesthetic feeling.

Embroidery, known as the "facade" of national costume art, can be divided into simple embroidery pieces, such as handkerchiefs, square towels, decorative embroidery pieces, and accessories embroidery pieces on costumes, such as cuffs, collars, chest bags and collars. Embroideries of different nationalities have their own characteristics.

Embroidered vest of Zhuang nationality. There are embroidered birds, butterflies and flowers, and the flower patterns are embroidered with white cloth, which separates the silk embroidered bird patterns, and the composition is symmetrical and extremely delicate; And embroidered vests with applique locks. Lock embroidery is an embroidery process of Zhuang, Yi and Bai nationalities in Yunnan. First, the pattern to be embroidered is cut out on the embroidery piece, and then the edge of the pattern is "locked" with different colors of silk thread, which has a strong three-dimensional effect.

Yi people in southern Shandong hold flowers with big square towels. Taking the diagonal as the center, five pattern areas are embroidered with black lines, and each pattern area is symmetrical up and down. The outermost area is embroidered with figures and dogs; The second area is embroidered with people and butterflies or bees; The third area is a tree pattern; The fourth area is a butterfly pattern; The fifth district is the central pattern, embroidered with black lines into a big flower shape, embroidered with representative patterns and houses of the second to fourth districts respectively. Each layer of pattern is embroidered with different color lines, and the overall composition is compact, rigorous, complicated and not chaotic, which is a fine work in embroidery.

Hats and hats are important parts of clothing. All ethnic minorities in Yunnan have their own traditional hats, especially children's hats. Children's hats not only have various shapes and are lifelike, but also have diverse decorative techniques, exquisite decorative patterns and far-reaching implications.

Red river post memorial arch hat. This is a common children's hat for Yi people. The brim of the hat is decorated with a bronze or aluminum Buddha statue, which looks like a memorial arch, meaning to pray for good luck and ward off evil spirits, and to place the mother's love for her children.

Tiger hat of the Han nationality in Kunming. It is embroidered with the word "Wang", and there is also a lotus memorial arch, which is very similar in style to the Yi people.

Dai children's hat. Embroidered with five-color silk thread through disc embroidery, hollow patchwork embroidery and other techniques. And it looks luxurious.

Shoes and accessories. Bai, Yi, Zhuang, Buyi, Mongolian, Pumi and Dai all have the habit of wearing embroidered shoes. In the past, young girls had to wear embroidered shoes when they got married, and they also had to wear embroidered shoes on major festivals and occasions such as visiting relatives within one year after marriage. In Dali Bai nationality, many elderly women still like to wear embroidered shoes sewn by themselves, and many shoes are embroidered with the word "longevity" or auspicious patterns. They think that wearing embroidered shoes like this can lead to health and longevity. Children's shoes are mostly animal shapes, which combine children's innocence and love for small animals. They are really cute. Among them, the representative "Zodiac Shoes" applies the unique animal signs of China to children's shoes, which is more popular.

There are also traditional embroidery crafts in Yunnan, which are also keepsakes and decorations for young men and women to express their love. In Yunnan folklore, wearing sachets during the Dragon Boat Festival can pray for good luck and ward off evil spirits. There are many kinds of sachets, including monkey string sachets, colorful horse sachets, butterfly sachets, hydrangea sachets, gossip sachets and so on. The sachet is exquisite, beautifully embroidered and easy to carry, and now it has become an important tourist souvenir.

Whether it is exquisite embroidery, embroidered shoes of various shapes, children's hats and children's shoes, small and exquisite sachets and so on. , a collection of picking, tying, embroidering, sticking, sewing, locking, dyeing and other traditional crafts, is rich in theme composition, diverse in texture and exquisite in workmanship, and is the crowning touch in the treasure house of national costume art.

Bronzes and Yunnan National Costume

There are many ethnic groups in Yunnan, and the costume culture has a long history and is profound. Although the records of Yunnan ethnic costumes in ancient historical materials are not very detailed, a large number of bronzes unearthed from Shizhai Mountain in Jinning and Lijiashan in Jiangchuan, especially the images of hundreds of people on the utensils, provide us with a treasure house for textual research on Yunnan ethnic costumes in ancient and modern times. There are more than 20 ethnic groups' 10 costumes in Yunnan, and their origins can be found in bronze statues.

From these bronze statues, we can see the clothing images of different nationalities and identities. Such as "battle shell reservoir" and "gold-plated captive buckle ornaments". , depicting the military costumes of ancient Yunnan people; "Going out from my hometown" and "going to the warehouse" are both carved out of shells, describing the agricultural and sacrificial clothes of Yunnan people. On a large number of bronze ornaments, swords, copper bar heads and buttons, the costumes of the characters are numerous, complex or simple, with a wide variety and different styles. There are mainly the following types:

Crown and hat. Three of the bronze buckle ornaments for tying cattle with four people and four of the bronze buckle ornaments for dancing with eight people unearthed in Shizhai Mountain, Jinning, are all wearing plate-shaped crowns, which are similar in shape to crown-shaped crowns, that is, there are prominent breast nails and simple patterns on the bun, and the middle part of the plate is tied with the bun and then wrapped around the neck of the person. The crown was worn by senior officials of the Central Plains Dynasty. It has not only beads hanging back and forth, but also decorative patterns. The "crown-shaped crown" worn by the figure images unearthed in Shizhai Mountain can't be called a crown-shaped crown, because there are only decorative patterns but no beads, and the wearer is not a high official. Some ethnic minorities in modern Yunnan still wear this kind of crown, which is called "Panguan" or "Dingpan". The branches wearing this crown in Yao areas are called "Dingpan Yao", and they are also worn in Tibetan areas.

On the shell container unearthed from Shizhai Mountain in Jinning, there is a man carrying a hat in the sowing scene; The cowherd boy on the cover of the cowherd also wears a hat. Today, hats still accompany people's lives day and night, and become diverse and full of flavor. For example, the Dai hat in Dehong, Yunnan Province, is made of a thin bamboo hat, which is small and exquisite. Xinping Huayao Dai's hat has a special shape. The brim of the hat is slightly rolled up, giving people a feeling of flying upwards. When wearing it, the forehead is inclined high, which is more chic.

Pibi Pibi is widely used in Yunnan, and almost everyone uses it, regardless of gender. Judging from the bronze ware images, most robes in Yunnan have patterns, besides geometric patterns, there are peacock, snake, deer and other animal patterns. It is not only warm, but also a gorgeous ornament.

Double-breasted shirts are common costumes of major ethnic groups in Yunnan, regardless of gender and status; Judging from the images of bronzes, everyone who has a vertebral bun and a silver ingot bun hairstyle wears this kind of clothing. It is characterized by double-breasted, collarless, knee-length, short and narrow sleeves, and some only reach the elbow. When you wear it, don't fasten it, fasten it with a belt. Double-breasted buttons have side decorations on both sides. This ancient style does not pay much attention to the beauty of body lines, but uses various embroidery decorations to show its unique beauty. As a kind of women's dress, it is still popular among Tibetans, Miao, Yao, Yi, Hani, Shui, Bulang, Achang, Wa, De 'ang, Jinuo and Jingpo.

Pants and leggings. It can be seen from many bronze ware images that only a few residents in ancient Yunnan wore shorts on special occasions. For example, the male and female figurines with umbrellas unearthed in Shizhai Mountain and Lijiashan can see the shorts exposed on the inside of the coat from their squatting or kneeling posture. In most cases, men and women only wear a coat that reaches to their thighs and knees. Until modern times, many minority women in Yunnan still had the habit of wearing only skirts without trousers.

Because most residents in Yunnan have no habit of wearing trousers, Gaskin has always been naked except a long coat and a few shorts (or short skirts) to cover part of his body. Therefore, some laborers use leg wraps to protect their calves from thorns. This custom is still common in modern countries.

Hairstyle. Today, Dai women put their hair in a bun, wear long skirts and short-sleeved shirts, and decorate their teeth with gold and silver, which is also an ancient tradition. It can be clearly seen from the bronze ware images unearthed in Shizhai Mountain that the four-person music and dance figurines are tied to a high bun, and the method of tying their hair styles is basically the same as that of Huayao Dai women's high bun in Yuanjiang and Xinping counties today.

Embroidery. The bronze figures are exquisite and lifelike, and the costumes of musical and dancing figurines are particularly fancy. Some characters are densely covered, and decorative patterns such as stripes, geometric patterns, water ripples, grass water ripples, moire patterns, feather patterns and bird-shaped patterns all appear on the characters. Different patterns seem to indicate different identities or occupations. Today, Yunnan's minority costumes still inherit the exquisiteness of the ancient Dian country's "dyeing, weaving and embroidery", with more diverse styles and more beautiful colors.

On the Color of Yunnan Minority Clothing

The symbolic function of national costume color has evolved with the evolution of history. An important and inevitable trend is the liberation of instinct or totem, religion and record driven by costume color under the historical burden, which has become a foil for people to beautify their lives and show their national psychological characteristics. This is a kind of civilization and progress in human history, because human beings are developing more and more, the connotation of aesthetic spirit will be strengthened day by day, and the requirements for clothing color will be higher.

The beauty of clothing color is a very important issue. Some scholars who study color have put forward seven principles of color matching: unified method, contrast method, embellishment method, echo method, block method, pad method and title association. Generally speaking, solemn and simple styles are often composed of dark and light colors, while lively and bright styles are often composed of light colors. Through clever selection and collocation, people produce a feeling similar to beautiful melody through the transition between colors in music, which is the high realm of color. In addition, the psychological process of color also includes: a sense of contraction and a sense of expansion. Generally speaking, black and dark colors have a sense of contraction, while white and light colors have a sense of expansion; When people see red, orange and yellow, they often think of warm feelings such as sun and flame with similar colors, while colors such as blue, blue and purple often make people think of sea water and cold feeling in the night sky, and so on. After long-term life practice, all ethnic groups have consciously or unconsciously used these functions of color, making clothing colors have their own personalities.

Many minority women's clothes are mostly made of colorful and bright materials, which have strong national characteristics. For example, the women's' colored waist' women's dresses of the Yi people's "Niesu" series in Aoshan, Xinping and Shiping counties of Yunnan Province are made of fabrics with the above two colors in contrast. The whole body is in red, red and black, and green, blue and white are the same color, which is dazzling and beautiful. On the back, a rainbow band is synthesized with five-color striped cloth and reflects various designs, indicating that the sun's rays are sprayed around.

Clothing colors of different nationalities reflect different style characteristics and give people different aesthetic feelings. Dulong costumes give people a simple and rough impression; Miao, Bao, Pu Yi and other national costumes are exquisite in workmanship and colorful, which is very decorative. They are mostly in contrasting colors such as yellow, red, blue, green and white, and they are colorful and coordinated by weaving, embroidery, selection and dyeing, so as to show women's unique artistic talent and aesthetic psychology, and become a powerful tool for all ethnic groups to express their aesthetic feelings and ideals.

It can be predicted that with the development of minority society, the color of national costume as an aesthetic symbol will have the following three characteristics:

1st, practical and practical clothing colors will continue to move in the aesthetic direction. The concept of "beauty" in many national costumes mainly stems from their own cultural concepts, that is, "beauty" and "truth" are beauty, and the aesthetic law of color itself does not really play a role. I hope there will be a big breakthrough in the future.

Many of the "beauty" objectively expressed by national costume colors are instinctive and unconscious. With the deepening of color practice, people will have a further understanding and grasp of the nature and laws of color, and they will be freed from instinct and make a leap in the use of color to achieve a true determination.

The color of national costume will gradually change from expressing the aesthetic consciousness of the group to expressing individuality and freedom, which is a sign of social equality, civilization and prosperity.

In a word, with the development of society, the aesthetic needs originated from animal instinct are summarized and highlighted, and the color aesthetic law begins to play a role. This phenomenon of actively adjusting the color of clothing based on aesthetic needs is very common in national clothing. In order to add some colors and beauty to their clothes, they follow certain rules and principles of color expression and create a "meaningful form" of clothing color.

National costume art is the finishing touch.

Women of the Kang nationality in Yunnan are not only skillful craftsmen in spinning cotton cloth, but also experts in embroidery. They began to beautify themselves, and embroidered beautiful patterns on hats, collars, cuffs, chest bags, belts, shoes and satchels, which can best express decorative art, giving them beautiful meanings.

Walking into the special museum of ethnic and folk arts and crafts in Yunnan National Museum, this kind of folk art is not only practical, but also has appreciation value and aesthetic feeling, which can better touch the face.

Embroidery, known as the "facade" of national costume art, can be divided into simple embroidery, such as handkerchiefs, towels, decorative embroidery, etc., and embroidery that matches the decoration on clothing, such as cuffs, collars, chest bags, collar shawls, etc. Embroidered pieces of different nationalities also have their own characteristics.

Embroidered piece of Zhuang vest. There are also birds, butterflies and flowers embroidered with white decorative patterns, and the embroidered flowers and birds are separated, and the composition is symmetrical and very beautiful; And applique lock embroidered vest. Lock embroidery is a technique of embroidery in Yunnan Qiang, Yi, Bai and other ethnic groups. First, the pattern to be embroidered is cut on the embroidery, and then the edge of the pattern is "locked" with silk threads of different colors, which greatly enhances the three-dimensional sense.

South Road Yi embroidery towel. With the diagonal as the center, five pattern areas are embroidered with thick lines, and the left and right sides of each pattern area are symmetrical. The most side is embroidered with words and dogs; The second area embroiders some people and butterflies or bees; The third field is tree design; The fourth field is butterfly design; The fifth area is the central pattern, embroidered with a large flower shape to the thick line, embroidered with representative patterns and houses of two to four areas respectively. Each pattern is embroidered by different threads, and the overall composition is compact, rigorous, complicated and not chaotic, which is a fine embroidery.

Hat decoration and hats are important parts of clothing. Yunnan ethnic minorities have their own traditional hats, especially children's hats. Virgin hats are not only varied and lifelike in shape, but also diverse in decorative techniques, fine in decorative patterns and profound in meaning.

Red River Yi memorial arch hat. This is a common children's hat of the Yi people. The brim of the hat is decorated with a statue of Buddha made of copper or aluminum. The shape of the hat is the same as that of the archway, which means praying for evil spirits and entrusting the mother's love for her children.

The appearance hat of the Han aristocrats in Kunming. There is the word "Wang" on the embroidery, and there is a lotus memorial archway seed case, which is very similar to the Yi nationality in style.

Dai people are both rich and poor. It is embroidered with five-color silk thread by means of plate embroidery, hollowing out and stitching, and its style is gorgeous.

Shoe decoration. Bai, Yi, Zhuang, Buyi, Mongolian, Pumi and Dai all have the custom of wearing shoes. In the past, girls had to wear bridal dresses and embroidered shoes when they got married, and they also had to wear embroidered shoes on major festivals and occasions such as mutual recognition in the year after marriage. Among the Bai people in Ali, many elderly women still like to wear their own embroidered embroidered shoes, which are embroidered with the word "longevity" or auspicious patterns. They think that wearing such embroidered embroidered embroidered shoes can lead to a long and healthy life. Children are modeled on animals, and innocence and cuteness are integrated with children's childlike interest in microorganisms, which is really cute. The representative ones are "Zodiac shoes", which use the unique children's shoes of the Zodiac in China and have folk appeal.

Sachet bag Also known as wallet, it is a traditional folk embroidery handicraft in Yunnan, and it is also a token and honor for young men and women to express their love. In Yunnan folk customs, wearing sachets on the Dragon Boat Festival can praise good luck and avoid evil spirits. There are many kinds, including animal-shaped monkey strings, colored horses, butterfly sachets, hydrangeas, gossip sachets and so on. Small and exquisite sachets, exquisite embroidery and easy to carry, have become important tourist souvenirs.

Whether it is exquisite embroidery, embroidered shoes with various structures, cute children's shoes with petty bourgeoisie and exquisite sachets, it is a combination of various traditional techniques such as selection, clamping, embroidery, sticking, sewing, fastening, locking and dyeing, with rich themes and composition, various textures and exquisite workmanship, which is the crowning touch in the national costume art treasure house.

Bronzes and Yunnan National Costume

There are many ethnic groups in Yunnan, and the costume culture has a long history and is profound. Although the records of Yunnan ethnic costumes in ancient historical materials are not very detailed, a large number of bronzes unearthed in Shizhai Mountain in Jinning and Lijiashan in Jiangchuan, especially hundreds of pictures on the utensils, provide us with a treasure house of materials for textual research on Yunnan ethnic costumes in ancient and modern times. Among the existing costumes of more than 20 nationalities in Yunnan, more than 10 pieces can be found in bronze ware images.

From these bronze statues, we can see people of different nationalities and countries.