What are the characteristics of ancient costumes in Europe, Japan and China? For example, what are the costumes of warriors, ministers, nobles and emperors? What's the etiquette?

Hanfu, the traditional national costume of the Han nationality in China, also known as Hanzhuang and Huafu, mainly refers to the decorative system of traditional costumes with unique China cultural characteristics, which is different from other nationalities, based on the national culture of Huaxia (also known as the Han nationality after the Han Dynasty) for nearly 4,000 years from about 2 1 century BC to the middle of17th century. In other words, China Traditional Costume (Hanfu) is an overall collection of a series of China (Han) national costumes with strong China (Han) national style from Xia, Shang and Zhou Dynasties to Ming Dynasty.

The History and Development of Hanfu

Hanfu is one of the national costumes with the longest history in the world. According to historical records, Hanfu was made by the Yellow Emperor. "Before the Yellow Emperor, there were no clothes and houses. The Yellow Emperor built houses, made clothes and held funerals, so the people were spared the difficulties of survival. " About 5,000 years ago, during Yangshao Culture in Neolithic Age, primitive agriculture and textile industry came into being in China, and clothes were made from woven linen. Later, sericulture and spinning were invented, and people's clothes and costumes became more and more complete. Crown appeared in the era of the Yellow Emperor, and the clothing system gradually formed. After Xia and Shang Dynasties, the system of crown service was initially established and gradually improved in the Western Zhou Dynasty. In the late Zhou Dynasty, due to the drastic changes in politics, economy, ideology and culture, especially the influence of a hundred schools of thought on the perfection of clothing, there began to be obvious differences in clothing, clothing and customs among the vassal States. And create deep clothes. The crown service system has been brought into the category of "rule by courtesy" and has become a manifestation of etiquette. Since then, China's clothing system has become more detailed.

From the Zhou Dynasty to the Ming Dynasty, the basic feature of Han costumes in the past 3,000 years is that there have been no major changes. It was not until the early Qing Dynasty more than 300 years ago that this clothing system collapsed. 1644 After the demise of the Ming Dynasty, in the war with Nanming, the rulers of the Qing Dynasty vigorously promoted Manchu hairstyles and Manchu costumes in order to maintain Manchu aristocratic rule and weaken the national identity of Han people, and brutally prohibited people from wearing Chinese clothes, which was called "shaving hair and changing clothes" (also known as "shaving hair"). This makes Hanfu gradually die out. At that time, the Duke of Confucius' descendants' feast wrote to Dourgen, asking to keep the clothes of Confucius' family, saying, "A saint is a master of ceremonies ... The most important thing to hold a ceremony is to wear a crown ... but the clothes of ministers have not changed for 3,000 years ...", but Dourgen refused. Today's cheongsam, gown and mandarin jacket are the improvement and development of national costumes with Manchu as the main body, not the traditional national costumes of Han nationality.

After the Revolution of 1911 overthrew the aristocratic rule of Manchu, people's thoughts tended to westernize and changed to western-style clothes, but they did not restore Hanfu. But at the beginning of 2 1 century, with the development of China's national strength, people began to examine the excellent parts of their traditional culture. Some people once again advocate restoring the traditional Hanfu and promoting it in Hanfu. There are different views on the behavior of these people in society, as shown in the controversial part below.

The Characteristics and Styles of Hanfu

The main characteristics of Hanfu are horizontal collar and right lap. Instead of buttons, they are tied with ropes, giving people an impression of freedom and elegance. These characteristics are obviously different from the costumes of other nationalities. Hanfu can be divided into formal clothes and regular clothes. From the shape point of view, there are mainly three kinds: "top and bottom clothes" (ancient top refers to bottom skirt), "deep clothes" (top and bottom clothes are sewn together) and "skirt" (short clothes). Among them, the coronation under the coat is the most solemn and formal dress for emperors and officials; Robe clothes (deep clothes) are common clothes for officials and scholars, while skirts are popular among women. Ordinary working people generally wear short clothes and pants.

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Headdress is one of the important parts of Han costumes.

Ancient Han men and women put their hair in a bun and fixed it on their heads. Men often wear crowns, towels, hats and so on. , different shapes.

Women's hair can also be combed into various styles, and they can wear all kinds of beading, walking and other accessories. The temples on both sides are richly decorated, and some wear curtain caps and hijabs.

The Influence of Hanfu on the Clothing of Other Nationalities in China

Emperor Xiaowen of the Northern Wei Dynasty banned Xianbei costumes and changed them to Hanfu. Emperor Xiaowen of the Northern Wei Dynasty banned Xianbei costumes and changed them to Hanfu.

65438+1October 65438+March 495 (the second day of December in the eighteenth year of Taihe). Emperor Xiaowen of the Northern Wei Dynasty vigorously promoted a series of sinicization policies, the main contents of which are as follows:

It is forbidden to wear Xianbei clothes, and all will be changed to Hanfu.

It is forbidden to speak Xianbei dialect. Chinese is the only spoken language.

Xianbei people who moved to Luoyang were all born in Luoyang and buried in Luoyang after their death. They are not allowed to be buried in Pingcheng.

Xianbei changed his surname to Han. First of all, from the royal family, the name of Tuoba was changed to yuanshi county County. The rest of the changes are invincible (remember). It is also stipulated that the eight surnames of Xianbei are equivalent to the four surnames of Cui, Lu, Li and Zheng, the first-class aristocrats of Han people, and the nobles other than the eight surnames of Xianbei are also rated. So that Xianbei nobles also implemented the gate valve system like the Han nationality.

It is forbidden for Xianbei people to marry with the same surname, and Xianbei people are encouraged to marry Han people according to their family status. Emperor Xiaowen also took the lead, taking the woman with the most Chinese surnames as his concubine, and marrying the woman with the most Chinese surnames for his five imperial brothers and the princess with the most Chinese surnames as his wife.

Despite the obstruction and opposition of some Xianbei nobles. Emperor Xiaowen's reform was finally successful, which greatly promoted national integration. After only a few decades, Xianbei and other ethnic minorities in the Central Plains have basically merged with the Han nationality.

kimono

During the Nara period in Japan, that is, during the prosperous Tang Dynasty in China, Japan sent a large number of Tang Dynasty envoys to China to study the culture, art and law of China, including the system of dressing. At that time, they also issued a "clothing order" imitating the Tang system. Japan still calls the kimono "Wu Fu" (the word kimono is a western name for Japanese Wu Fu, which is gradually accepted by the Japanese, but shops selling kimonos in Japan are generally called Wu Fu, and there are few names of kimonos), which means clothes from Wudi (now Jiangsu and Zhejiang) in China. The early kimono was a copy of the Tang suit, and the later twelve coats were also called "Tang suit" (Lee's Korean dress coat was also called Tang suit, although both of them had more national characteristics). Although kimono developed from Hanfu, it has formed its own national characteristics after a long historical period. For example, after the Edo era, women's belts gradually became wider and larger, and the drum section of the belt moved backward, showing various styles, which is also the main symbol to distinguish kimono from Hanfu. The decorative patterns on kimono fabrics often have distinctive Japanese national characteristics.

North Korea clothes Hanfu

During the Tang Dynasty, Silla was closely related to the Tang Dynasty, and its dress characteristics were almost the same as those of the Tang Dynasty. After Lee's mid-Korean period, Korean costumes, especially women's dresses, developed into high-waisted skirts, and the difference between them gradually increased. However, official clothes, court clothes and important court dresses still retain many Hanfu systems, which change with the changes of Hanfu. For example, the black veil of officials in the Tang Dynasty was tied with a drooping belt, and Silla officials sighed. For example, the dress of Empress Li Chao has always been the style of Empress China. The main differences between modern hanbok and hanbok are as follows: hanbok generally has a right collar and double-breasted (V-neck), while Korean clothing has developed into a small V-neck; The women's dress is very tall, and the hem is very wide and fluffy.

Hanfu and Network Culture

In recent years, many young netizens met online and then agreed to meet Hanfu in public. In recent years, with a youth as the main body and the Internet as the carrier, a movement of "restoring Hanfu" has been launched. And caused great repercussions and controversy together. We focus on the following issues:

What is Hanfu?

Some people think that in the process of long-term ethnic integration, the cultures and costumes of all ethnic groups in China have influenced each other, and the costumes of different dynasties are different. There is no such thing as pure Hanfu. For example, the Han costumes of the Qing Dynasty have been integrated with Manchu costumes. Therefore, it is considered that the concept of Hanfu is broad and difficult to define clearly.

Some people object to the above view. Although the national costumes of the Han nationality are influenced by other national costumes, their basic national characteristics have not changed, but the fashion styles of different dynasties are different.

Should Hanfu be restored?

Some people object. Its main point is that although the disappearance of Hanfu is a historical reason, it is an abnormal process. However, history cannot repeat itself. For the modern Han nationality, the traditional Hanfu has no function in daily life, and it is enough to preserve it as a historical culture. There is no need to restore traditional Hanfu in modern times.

People who hold positive views believe that the traditional costumes of all ethnic groups have developed from ancient times and are the embodiment of nationality and tradition. Hanfu is the traditional national costume of Han nationality and the representative of national traditional culture. Hanfu is also the carrier of Chinese culture. In modern society, people are increasingly aware of the role of traditional culture in the harmonious development of society. The implementation of Hanfu is conducive to the inheritance and development of the traditional culture of the Han nationality and to improving national cohesion and pride. It is necessary to restore Hanfu in modern times.

Should Hanfu be fully restored?

Some people are more cautious: they can wear Hanfu dresses and uniforms at festivals, grand celebrations, weddings, birthdays, funerals and leisure time with national characteristics. I think it's inconvenient to wear Hanfu at ordinary times, but I should still wear my present clothes. Some people think that contemporary communication etiquette has its general rules and dress standards on many occasions and cannot be destroyed. Even South Korea and Japan, whose traditions are well preserved, are not completely living in national costumes.

Some people hold a positive opinion: Hanfu has not only dresses with wide robes and big sleeves, but also casual clothes with tight sleeves, which is convenient for exercise and will not cause inconvenience in daily life.

Can mandarin jackets and cheongsam be used as national costumes of modern Han nationality?

Some people think that mandarin jackets and cheongsam have a great influence abroad. Many foreigners regard mandarin jackets and cheongsam as China's traditional costumes, and have acquiesced in the image of China. Therefore, it makes sense to regard them as the traditional costumes of modern Han people.

Some people are totally against it. It is considered that mandarin jacket and cheongsam are the improvement and continuation of Manchu costumes, which are quite different from the traditional national costumes of the Han nationality and cannot represent the traditional culture of the Han nationality.

Will Hanfu Games lead to Han chauvinism? And affect the Han nationality and other ethnic groups in China?

Many people are worried about this. Because Han people account for the majority of China's domestic population, and Hanfu movement may cause excessive expansion of Han people's sense of persecution in history; Too much emphasis on that period of history will lead to the rise of narrow nationalist sentiment, intensify ethnic contradictions, and then lead to ethnic problems and affect ethnic affairs.

Many people are optimistic about this. They believe that Hanfu movement is a cultural movement within the Han nationality, not aimed at other ethnic minorities. Moreover, it is an unofficial cultural movement, which is completely different from the "shaving and changing clothes" promoted by the Qing Dynasty more than 300 years ago.