Which dynasty did the shawl skirt originate from?

The historical style of skirt is called "strip", which was called "strip" before Han Dynasty and "strip" after Han Dynasty. According to the Exegesis, the notes of "Xia Shang" and "Pian Yu" indicate that "Shang Ye" and "Tang Yun" are cited as Xia Shang Ye, and both of them are interpreted as Shang Ye. Only Dialect says: "It's about Xun", and Duan Yucai notes accordingly that "however, those who encircle the collar are also encircled. It is wrong to think that this is a wallet slung over your shoulder. The mysterious end of the dress under the coat is the royal dress, which is worn by both monarchs and ministers. It has been seen in the past that there are good people in the world, and the clothes worn by civilians are truth. "General Examination of Literature" Volume 113 "An Examination of the Crown of Kings and Ministers" quoted "Teaching Classics": "I went to Zhou, Zuo Ci was in Wei, and I wore a single skirt (the same).

Not only in peacetime, but also in wartime. "Guoyu" recorded the battle of Tai, which was an example of being driven away and having his armor taken away. This trend was particularly serious in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The fourth volume of the inventory record "Evidence of Crime" records: "In the process of Chenghua (Ming Xianzong), ponytail skirts prevailed. This system began in South Korea and flowed into the capital, and the people in the capital gradually became accustomed to it. Cabinet minister Wan 'an stayed in winter and summer. Zong Zhoubo Hongmo takes two things seriously ... "As for women, they only protect their nakedness and have to wear skirts. Tang poetry often praises pomegranate skirt. Today's so-called "falling at the pomegranate skirt" may come from this. In the Ming and Qing dynasties, women's dresses were so-called butterfly skirts, nine-chardonnay skirts, wicker skirts, pleated skirts, and so on. (Refer to Huang Xianfan's "A Preliminary Study on the Interpretation of Ancient Books")

In ancient times, people used skins and leaves around their waists. This is the earliest skirt and the earliest clothing for human beings. Of course, skirts at this time are far from beautiful. Skirts appeared in ancient Egypt. At first, cloth was wrapped around the body or sewn into a simple tube. In the Middle Ages, a cutting method using seam saving and trumpet shape was designed. At this time, the production technology of skirts has made remarkable progress and laid a solid foundation for future development.

With the overall decoration of clothing, by the middle of16th century, some people put a skirt ring (petticoat for skirt modeling) inside the skirt, which inflated the shape of the skirt. In the history of skirt, it is considered as the most luxurious and decorative era in18th century. Since then, due to the outbreak of the French Revolution, exaggerated skirts have disappeared for some time, and it is once again popular to put a petticoat (a petticoat made of ponytail and hemp) in the skirt. /kloc-At the end of 0/9th century, skirts with back waist pads appeared.

After the 20th century, due to the occurrence of the First World War, with the participation of women in social life, skirts have also become short skirts that are easy to move. After World War II, various skirt shapes, such as long skirts and miniskirts, appeared according to the fashion until now. [Edit this paragraph] The history of ancient skirts in China.

Skirts have a long history in China. In ancient times, our ancestors used leaves or skins to keep out the cold, which became the embryonic form of skirts. According to Liu Xi's Interpretation of Names and Clothing at the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty, "skirt" and "Tuan" means to connect many small leaves with animal skins.

pre-Qin period

According to legend, more than 4,000 years ago, the Yellow Emperor established a system of "clothes under clothes", stipulating that people of different identities should wear clothes of different colors. At that time, petticoats were skirts. "History of the Five Dynasties" said: "In ancient times, clothes were expensive, and the lower skirt had a fate with the color of clothes. ); Yao and Shun have fallen, and there are six breaks (break, analysis, that is, wrinkles. ) and straight seam, all go to the edge; In Shang and Zhou dynasties, because of its quality, it was embroidered with flowers and decorated with five colors. There are clothes to cover, and later generations add text to their ears. " "The Record" also said: "Emperor Yang Di made a long skirt, twelve broken, famous fairy skirt." Explains the evolution of skirts.

During the Xia, Shang and Zhou dynasties, the costumes of Chinese people in the Central Plains were a coat with a skirt and a right shirt. The stone statue of slave owner unearthed in Anyang, Henan Province, wears a flat hat, a right collar, a skirt, a big belt around the waist, leggings and pointed shoes. This roughly reflects the situation of Shang Dynasty costumes.

During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, people generally wore deep clothes, and the top was connected with the lower skirt. Thick clothes are similar to dresses, but slightly different.

Han Dynasty

Skirts became popular in the Han Dynasty, but the tops were short and the skirts were long, like modern Korean dresses. The existing costumes of pottery figurines and maiko figurines in the Han Dynasty are clearly reflected in this way. At that time, skirts were all wrinkled, so-called "pleated skirts". According to the literature, Liu Xin's Miscellanies of Xijing and the Legend of Flying Swallows both recorded the story of Zhao, the queen of Emperor Han Cheng. Zhao wore a long purple dress, and the skirt fluttered. Drum music, dancing in grandfather Chi Pan, when the wind is blowing, if the body is light, the swallows are blown by the wind. Emperor Cheng ordered his attendants to hold her, only to catch her skirt in a panic. The queen was saved, but there were many wrinkles on her skirt. However, the pleated skirt looks better than the one without pleats before. Since then, ladies-in-waiting have followed suit, which is the "fairy dress" at that time.

Since the Han Dynasty, the style of skirts has gradually approached the present style. A complete skirt was found in Mawangdui tomb in Changsha. It is made of four ordinary silks, narrow at the top and wide at the bottom, and is trapezoidal. The skirt waist is also made of plain silk, and the two ends of the skirt waist are stretched separately for tying. The whole skirt does not need any ornamentation, which is called "no skirt". In the Han Dynasty, some ordinary men also wore short skirts. People wearing long skirts lift their skirts and stuff them around their waists at work, which is convenient for work. The biography of Wei Zhi Ning Guan's reflection says that it is better to wear a soap hat, a cloth cover and a cloth skirt.

Wei, Jin, southern and northern dynasties

After Wei and Jin Dynasties, the styles of skirts have been increasing. In addition to ordinary long skirts, there are red yarn double skirts, single yarn double skirts, purple blue yarn double skirts, Dan yarn cup skirts and so on. During the Sixteen States of Jin Dynasty, the "color separation skirt" became popular. According to the biography of Song Shu Yang Xin, when Wu was a satrap, he wrote a new white dress in Yang Xin. Yang Xin is a good scholar and his calligraphy has made great progress. Skirts are common clothes for rich children in the Six Dynasties, and they are called "skirt children". "Biography of the Northern History of Xing Luanzhuan" contains: "I was a teenager in a skirt and ignored the political affairs."

Sui and Tang Dynasties

The dress style of Sui Dynasty basically inherited the style of Southern and Northern Dynasties. Long-bottomed skirts were particularly popular in the Sui Dynasty, when people still adopted neutral skirts. The skirt length in the Tang dynasty increased significantly compared with the previous generation. In the Sui and Tang Dynasties, skirts became more popular, and some skirts were enlarged to make them fuller. Skirts are loved by all walks of life. Clothing in the Tang Dynasty mainly consists of three pieces: skirt, coat and wallet. The skirt is very long and the shoulders are covered with silk like a long scarf. There are nearly 300 poems describing skirts and wearing skirts throughout the Tang Dynasty. For example, Wang Changling's Song of Picking Lotus is as green as a skirt and as green as a lotus leaf, which is like a wonderful picture in the lake and mountains. "The lotus leaf skirt is cut in one color, and the hibiscus is open to both sides of the face; I can't see it when I enter the pool. I feel someone coming when I hear the song. " Li Shangyin's "Jiangnan Qu" vividly depicts the style of the skirt, which is cut according to the girl's slender waist. Slim figure and fitted long skirt are swaying in the breeze on the lake. "Lang boat two oars, nong song move double spoke. Sweep the forehead and cut the skirt around the waist. " Bai Juyi's "Xiaoqu New Words" put the girl in red skirt on the bright moon night in early autumn, and the moonlight and skirt color set each other off. "Red skirt moonlit, early autumn garden. It's good to stay in Zhaoyang, but it's cool and late. " Du Fu's Play for the Beauty of Zhao is another story. Chutian is vast, the beauty knight is under the blue sky and white clouds, the peach blossom is red, and the skirt as bright as pomegranate flowers is floating. "The pink and green moths are reflected in Chu Yun, and the peach blossoms are pomegranate skirts." Meng Haoran's Chun Qing describes the charm of long skirts beautifully. "When sitting, the clothes are wrapped in grass, and the skirt sweeps the plum." In Yuan Zhen's dining hall, dancers wear red skirts and blue sleeves. "flowers are low and drunk, and spring is crazy; The red skirt is in a hurry and the song is long. "

Song Liao Jin Yuan

The color of the skirt in Song Dynasty is simple and elegant, and the skirt is still very wide. There were six, eight and twelve skirts in the Song Dynasty, and the common feature of * * * was many folds. The decorative patterns on the skirt are more colorful, such as painting, valerian dyeing, embroidered gold, embroidered pearls, etc ... The color of the skirt is the most noble with the yellow dyed by tulip roots; There is also a red skirt, which is worn by kabuki; The colorful pomegranate skirt is the most famous. The Song Dynasty inherited the dress of the Tang Dynasty and took it as the main dress in daily life. Due to the influence of national costumes, the form of skirts in Song Dynasty can be left or right, mainly right; On the ribbon in the middle of the skirt, there is often a Yuhuan ornament-"Yuhuan Ribbon", which is used to hold down the skirt so that it will not lose its elegance and solemnity when dancing with the wind.

Liao, Jin and Yuan Dynasties were the times when ethnic minorities were in power, and the skirts used by the Han nationality in this period basically followed the legacy of the Song Dynasty. As for the national skirt, it has largely retained its own characteristics. For example, during the Liao and Jin Dynasties, Khitan and Jurchen wore dark skirts embroidered with flowers and trees, and the whole body was folded into 60%, usually under the group shirt.

tomorrow

The traditional customs of the Han nationality were restored in the Ming Dynasty, and the skirt modeling still retained the characteristics of the Tang and Song Dynasties. The red skirt, which was popular in the Tang Dynasty, became popular again in the Ming Dynasty. The pleated long skirt was popular in Ming Dynasty, which stipulated that only light colors such as purple, pink and green could be used by the people. But there are many styles and varieties, and some skirts are not much different from modern people. "Water Margin": "(Hong) took off his clothes, pulled up his skirt, pulled out his stick, and raised his flag and drum ...". During Chenghua period (AD 1465- 1487), a "ponytail skirt" was popular in Beijing. It is said that this kind of skirt originated in Korea. This skirt is big, comfortable and beautiful. After being introduced into Beijing, many people in Beijing "bought clothes". At first, few people could knit, and it was expensive, and it was only popular among some wealthy businessmen and nobles. After that, the number of merchants and sellers increased. "So there are no expensive and cheap ones, and there are more and more servants." By the end of Chenghua, even court officials were "those who served many things" (Lu Rong's Garden Miscellanies).

Ching Dynasty

In the Qing Dynasty, due to the oppression of the nobles in the Qing Dynasty, the system of "upper skirt" of the Han nationality was destroyed, and skirts basically withdrew from the field of men's wear, but the vast majority of Han women still followed the costumes of the Ming Dynasty. The skirts in the early Qing Dynasty still retain the customs of the Ming Dynasty, such as phoenix tail skirts and moon skirts. Later, with the passage of time, many new skirts were produced. Playing with Ink Skirt is one of them. It is based on light-colored satin and printed with black flowers by elastic ink technology. It is very popular because of its elegant colors and unique patterns, especially by ordinary women. In the future, there are more and more styles of skirts, which change at any time, and some are filled with various ribbons; There are countless little bells under the skirt to make it jingle; There is also a waterline embroidered under the skirt, which is extremely beautiful with the movement of the human body. At this time, the traditional pleated skirt has also been reformed: several pieces of cloth are folded into fine pleats, and the pleats are connected in series with silk thread. Because it looks like carp scales when unfolded, it is called "fish scale pleated skirt". This kind of skirt was popular in Tongzhi period in the late Qing Dynasty, as evidenced by a poem: "Why haven't Feng Wei heard for a long time?" Now, whenever there is a holiday, I wear a fish-scale skirt. "As for the Empress Dowager, Empress Dowager, Empress, and prostitutes at home and abroad, they should wear royal robes in case of major etiquette such as royal greetings and sacrifices. Skirts are usually worn under jackets. Korean skirts are divided into winter and summer styles according to seasons, with satin as the main material and animal skin as the edge; The summer skirt is mainly made of yarn, and the edge is brocade. The production is divided into two parts, the upper part is red or green, the lower part is stone blue, and the whole body is stacked with fine pleats. The patterns used are strictly different: the upper concubine can use dragon patterns, and the lower one can use python patterns.

By the end of the Qing Dynasty, fewer and fewer people wore skirts. Ancient people wore skirts for shelter from the rain and etiquette, and there were strict rules. Regardless of the old lady, even the home should be tidy, otherwise it will be considered frivolous and rude. Usually wear a black skirt at home, and the style is pleated skirt. There are six skirts at home and eight visitors. The so-called "skirt drags six Xiangjiang rivers" to describe the beauty of skirts. At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, the red skirt was a kind of dress, which only couples could wear. Between husband and wife, only the first room can wear a red skirt, and the concubine can't wear a red skirt.