Clothing through the ages

Primitive Costume Imaginatively recovered from unearthed bone needles, bone awls, and other garment-making tools. Before textile technology was invented, animal fur was the main material for people's clothing. There was no rope or thread at that time, and animal ligaments may have been used to sew clothes. In the caveman site and other ancient tombs, layer excavated a large number of ornaments, including headdresses, neck ornaments and wrist ornaments, etc., the material has a natural stone, animal teeth and fish bones and shells from the sea, etc., at that time to wear these ornaments, may be not only for the sake of decorative, may also contain the fishing and hunting victories of the commemorative

One of the Shang Dynasty's hair style braided hair local (Henan Anyang stock market women's good tomb unearthed by the Jade People). The hair style of men in the Shang Dynasty was dominated by the wearing of braided hair. From the image data, this period of men's braided hair style more, there are total hair to the top, braided into a braid, hanging to the back of the head; there are the left and right sides of the braid, the braid curls, down to the shoulder; there will be a braid of hair coiled around the top and so on. This picture shows the total hair to the top, braided into a braid, hanging to the back of the head. Shang Dynasty hair style of the second braided hair coiled top of the Shang Dynasty men, this picture for the Shang Dynasty terracotta figurines. (Unearthed in Xiaotun, Stock Market, Anyang, Henan Province; the original is now in Taiwan). The hair style of the Shang Dynasty men was dominated by plaited hair. From the image data, this period of men's braided hair style more, there are total hair to the top, braided into a braid, hanging to the back of the head; there are the left and right sides of the braid, the braid ends of the curly, down to the shoulder; there will be a braid into the top of the coiled hair and so on. This picture shows the hair braided and coiled on the top. Three of the hair style of the Shang Dynasty The picture on the left shows the Shang aristocrats with plaited hair and wearing gorgeous clothes, with obvious patterns on their bodies, the front chest is decorated with a dragon pattern, and the two arms are decorated with a descending dragon pattern (a jade figure unearthed from the tomb of Women's Hao in the Yinxu Ruins in Anyang, Henan Province). On the right is a Shang dynasty slave with braided hair (Jade Man excavated from the tomb of Women's Goodness in Yinxu, Anyang, Henan Province). Yinxu was the capital city of the late Shang Dynasty, located in the northwest suburb of present-day Anyang City, Henan Province. In the ruins of Yinxu, a large number of jade artifacts had been found, which are precious materials for the study of the social customs of the Shang and Zhou Dynasties. Their beautiful shapes, wide range of subjects and vivid postures are sufficient to illustrate the level of jade craftsmanship in this period. What is even more rare is that a variety of characters were carved on some of these jade pendants, and their hair and clothes were distinctive, reflecting the typical features of clothing at that time.

Maturing men and women of the Shang Dynasty (a jade figure unearthed from the tomb of Muhao in Yinxu, Anyang, Henan Province). The figure seems to be a child image, the body is engraved with clear patterns, may be the early tattoo, head inserted ornaments, may be a pair of hairpin, which can be seen in the Shang Dynasty hairpin insertion method.

One of the crown ornaments of the Shang Dynasty, a Shang man wearing a hatband (a jade man unearthed from the tomb of Women's Hao in Anyang Stock Market, Henan Province). The stone man sits with his hands on his knees and knees. The headdress is more characteristic: long hair, and the tips of the hair twisted together, coiled on the top of the head, wearing a round hoop-shaped crown. This kind of headdress was the more popular style at that time. Crowns of the Shang Dynasty II Men wearing high crowns (Jade Man Pei Juan unearthed in the tomb of Women's Hao in Anyang, Henan Province). Pei Juan is a kind of ornamental jade, which is not related to the Juan on ritual vessels. During the Shang Dynasty, the Juan evolved from a plain, unmarked surface to a human Juan, a bird Juan, a fish Juan, a beast Juan, and so on. Has been handed down to the late Western Zhou Dynasty. Three of the crowns of the Shang Dynasty Noble men wearing rolled crowns and scarves and gorgeous clothes (the jade man unearthed in the tomb of Women's Hao in the stock market of Anyang, Henan Province). Dressed in a cross-necked, narrow-sleeved garment, he is ornately dressed and covered with cloud-shaped patterns. The waist is bound with a wide belt that presses against the lower part of the collar, and the garment is knee-length. There is a rectangular "knee shield" hanging from the abdomen. Shoes are worn underneath. Left waist inserted a roll of cloud-shaped ornaments, seems to be wearing a sword and other weapons. The fourth of the crown ornaments of the Shang Dynasty is a noble man who wears a high scarf hat, a narrow-sleeved coat with a right overlapping collar, an elegant belt around his waist, and a knee-shield (there is a pendant symbolizing the right to wear around the waist of his predecessor, the lower end of the object is in the shape of the mouth of an axe, implying that an axe can break a cut, and later on the broadening of the belt became a knee-shield). (Western Zhou Jade Man, heirloom object, the original is now in the Fogg Art Museum of Harvard University, USA

Upper Ancient Shang Dynasty and Zhou Dynasty

Shang Dynasty and Zhou Dynasty Nobleman's Costume Narrow-sleeved Weaving Clothes and Knee-Shielded Clothes Displayed. The color of the fabrics of this period is mostly warm, especially yellow and red, with browns and tans, but it does not equal to the absence of cool colors such as baskets and greens. Just to vermilion and stone yellow made of red and yellow color, more vivid than other colors, penetration is also stronger, so durable and has been preserved to date. Analyzed by modern science and technology, the dyeing and weaving methods of the Shang and Zhou Dynasties were often dyed and painted, especially red, yellow and other positive colors, often after the fabric was woven, and then painted with a paintbrush. (Based on the restoration of the unearthed jade man's costume)

One of the men's costumes of the Eastern Zhou Dynasty, a long garment with a narrow collar and narrow sleeves, is shown in the picture. The costume of the Zhou Dynasty generally followed that of the Shang Dynasty, with slight changes. The style of clothes was slightly looser than that of the Shang Dynasty. There were two styles of sleeves, large and small, and the collar was a generalized rectangular collar, in the style shown in the picture. This period of clothing is not twisted buckle, generally in the waist belt, some on the belt also hung with jade ornaments. At that time, there are two main types of belts: one made of silk fabric, called "big belt" or "gentry belt". Another belt made of leather, called "leather belt". The one in this picture is the "Squire's Belt". Eastern Zhou men's clothing of the second This statue for the high hands, for kneeling, seems to be captured at that time. Wearing a flat cap, wearing a narrow-sleeved rectangular-necked blouse with thunder pattern, and a man with a shen belt around his waist. Zhou dynasty men's clothing style is characterized by right-over-obeam, narrow sleeves, long to the ankle, the waist belt more, there are clothes long and sit flush, this picture is such a style, under the pants. (Pottery Fan excavated from a tomb of the Eastern Zhou Dynasty in Houma, Shanxi Province.) The third of the Eastern Zhou men's costumes is a guard wearing a narrow-sleeved garment and wearing a sword at the waist (Zhong Yu bronze man excavated from a tomb of Zeng Houyi in Suixian County, Hubei Province). The upper garment is rectangular with a cross-necked, tight-fitting, narrow-sleeved bodice with a wavy left-length and right-short hem, and geometric lace along the edge of the collar. Underneath the tucked skirt, the left and right sides of the skirt are decorated with a geometric pattern of straight stripes. The length of the skirt is as short as the knee and as long as the floor. The skirts are worn within the upper garment. A leather belt with a tassel and a heart-shaped pouch is worn around the waist. A short sword is worn on the right side of the waist.

Hu Clothing of the Warring States Period The Warring States Period saw a more pronounced change in dress, the more important being the popularity of hu clothing. The so-called hu clothing is actually the clothing of the ethnic minorities in the northwest region, which is quite different from the broad-clothed and broad-banded Han clothing in the central plains, generally short clothes, long pants and leather boots, with a thin and narrow body, which is easy to move around. King Wuling of Zhao, who first adopted this kind of clothing, was one of the earliest reformers in the history of Chinese clothing. The short, knee-length garment was a major feature of the Hu costume, which was initially used in the military, but later spread to the civilian population and became a common attire. The picture on the left shows an acrobatic artist wearing a short, narrow-sleeved garment (a bronze figure from the Warring States period, an heirloom object, the original of which is now in the Freer Gallery in Washington, D.C.). In the center is a slave wearing a short, narrow-sleeved hu costume (a bronze figure of a dangdou lamp unearthed in Mancheng, Hebei Province). The right picture is a man wearing a crown, wearing a knee-length narrow-sleeved hu clothing (Henan Sanmenxia Shangcunling unearthed Warring States copper Spring and Autumn and Warring States aristocrats crowns and hats and costumes Warring States alabaster portrait, head wearing a crown, both sides of the group tassel hanging down to tie in the lower part of the jaw, the braid of hair behind the head on the upturned, wrapped in a crown; wearing a narrow-sleeved long robe, waist belt, foot wearing shoes. Spring and Autumn in addition to the Hu clothing, there is another type of clothing, called "deep clothes". Unlike the upper garment and lower garment, the deep garment is a kind of upper and lower connected garment, and this kind of garment has a great influence in the society, no matter noble and lowly men and women, civil and military positions, all can wear the deep garment. This picture shows an official wearing a crown and a wide-sleeved garment (Warring States jade man, a heirloom object, the original of which is now in the Palace Museum

man).

Straight Train Monokini of Chu Noblewoman Embroidered Luo Monokini and Embroidered Patterns (Physical Objects Unearthed from Horse Brick No. 1 Chu Tomb in Jiangling, Hubei). Chu tomb unearthed in the middle of the Warring States period clothing objects, there are silk, Luo, brocade, yarn, tapestries and other kinds of clothing more than ten pieces, for the earliest physical objects seen so far. From the physical point of view, brocade robes and Zen clothes style is basically the same, that is, the front body, the back body and two sleeves each for a piece, the width of each piece and the width of the garment itself is roughly equal. Right-over-oblong, cross-necked, straight train. The body, sleeves and hem are all flat and straight. The collar, sleeves, lapel and train all have an edge, and the edge at the end of the sleeves is more peculiar, usually with two colors of color-striped brocade set along. One of the men of the Chu state wearing a long robe and a high crown (Palm painting unearthed from the Bullet Bank Chu Tomb in Changsha, Hunan Province). A man with a beard, standing sideways, holding the reins in his hand in the form of a dragon. The dragon is depicted in the form of a boat, with a cover on top and a swimming fish underneath, indicating that the dragon is speeding through the water. The man in the center of the dragon is in a calm and dignified manner, like the image of the owner of the tomb. Although the content of the picture has a mythological color, the treatment of the character's costume is still close to reality: wearing a crown with a crown belt tied under the jaw, wearing a robe with large sleeves, the lapels of which are twisted down to form a train, which is a typical style of deep clothes. In the same period of wooden figurines, bronze people, can also see the same dress. The second of the men of Chu with curved train and deep clothes Pictures 1 and 2 on the left show men wearing deep clothes with curved train, rounded lapels and colorful embroidery (painted wooden figurines, heirloom objects, the originals of which are now in the Hochland Leyden Museum and the Metropolitan Museum of Art, USA, respectively). The third, fourth, fifth, and sixth figures on the left show a man wearing a deep garment with a curved train and rounded lapels (a wooden figurine excavated in Changsha, Hunan Province). On the right, a servant wearing a deep garment with large sleeves and rounded lapels (a bronze figure holding a lamp unearthed in Sanji, Pingshan, Hebei). Compared with other garments, in addition to the fact that the upper and lower garments are connected, there is another obvious difference called "overlapping and hooked edge". "Ovee" is the lapel. "Continuing obeisance" is to connect the lapel long. The "hooked edge" describes the style of the lapel. It changed the past clothing more in the hem slits in the tailoring method, the left side of the lapel of the front and back piece of sewing, and the back piece of the lapel lengthening, lengthening the lapel to form a triangle, wear around to the back, and then tied with a belt visible in this period of time, men wore a deep coat has become a common phenomenon.

Women's Costumes of the Zhongshan State during the Warring States Period Pictures of women with hairpin inserted, wearing short clothes and long skirts (Jade Man of the Zhongshan State unearthed in Sanjie, Pingshan, Hebei Province), and wearing narrow-sleeved, short clothes and long, checkered skirts (based on the restored costumes of the unearthed Jade Man). The Zhongshan State was an ethnic minority vassal state in the Central Plains of the Middle Kingdom of the Warring States period, founded by the Bai Di tribe. The jade figure's costume displayed in the figure, with a tight-fitting narrow-sleeved garment on top and a chevron-patterned skirt underneath, was representative of the period. The curly hair ornament on the figure's head, shaped like a cow's horn, may be a maturity ornament popular in the Central Plains

Qin and Han

Curved Train and Deep Clothes of Men in the Han Dynasty Curved Train and Deep Clothes to Wear Displayed in the Picture (drawn based on the restoration of the ceramic figurines from Xianyang, Shaanxi Province). The clothing styles of men in the Han Dynasty were roughly categorized into two types: curved train and straight train. The curved train, or deep coat, was popular during the Warring States period. It was still used in the Han Dynasty, but was mostly seen in the early Western Han Dynasty. To the Eastern Han Dynasty, men wearing deep clothes have been rare, generally more straight train clothes, but not as a formal dress

Han Dynasty officials robes Gray ground diamond pattern robes Figure. Men's clothing during the Qin and Han Dynasties was expensive with robes. Robes have been used as dresses. Their basic style, with large sleeves, has a clear convergence of the cuffs, and the collar and sleeves are decorated with lace. The collar of the gown to the parapet collar, mostly cut into the chicken heart type, worn to reveal the underwear. The hem of the robe, often playing a row of dense tucks, some also cut into a crescent bend. This robe is the ordinary attire of the Han officials, not thesis martial arts positions can be worn. From the unearthed murals, terracotta figurines, stone carvings, this garment is only a coat, where to wear such a costume, which is generally also lined with white underwear. Clerical officials wearing such clothing, the head must be wrapped in the conical cap, and in the conical cap plus wear into the sage crown. According to Han customs, the civil official to play things, generally use the brush to play things written on bamboo slips, after writing, that is, the pen will be inserted into the ear between the hair, and later formed a system, where the civil official to the court, all have to insert the pen, the tip of the pen is not dipped in ink, purely as a decorative, known as the "hairpin white pen". Women's 襦襦裙 Han Dynasty Women's 襦襦裙 (drawn with reference to the restoration of objects excavated from the Han Tomb of Muzhuizi in Gansu Province and the Han Tomb of Mawangdui in Changsha, Hunan Province). The style of women's clothing of upper jacket and lower skirt had already appeared as early as the Warring States period. In the Han Dynasty, the number of women who wore this style of clothing gradually decreased due to the general popularity of deep clothes. Accordingly, some people believe that this kind of dress did not exist at all in the Han Dynasty, and only re-emerged in the Wei, Jin and North-South Dynasties. In fact, women in the Han dynasty did not abandon this type of dress, which is depicted in a number of Han Lefu poems. During this period, the jacket style was generally very short, reaching only to the waist, while the skirt was very long, hanging down to the ground. 1957 in Gansu Wuwei Mazuizi Han Tomb found 襦襦襦, 襦襦以浅蓝色绢为面，中纳丝棉，袖端接接一段白色丝绢。 The skirt was also made of silk-cotton and yellow silk. Unfortunately, due to its age, this costume was already pulverized when it was unearthed. The style of the jacket shown in this picture is based on the image recorded during the excavation of the tomb. The patterns used are based on the "Changle Mingguang brocade" unearthed in Minfeng, Xinjiang, and the "Panther's head brocade" unearthed in the Mawangdui Han Tomb in Changsha. The jacket is one of the most important forms of Chinese women's clothing. Since the Warring States period until the Qing Dynasty, before and after more than 2,000 years, although the length, width and narrowness change from time to time, but the basic form has always maintained the original style

Wei-Jin-South-North Dynasty

Wei-Jin-South-North Dynasty women's clothing Wei-Jin period women's clothing inherited the legacy of the Qin and Han Dynasty, and absorbed the characteristics of the clothing of ethnic minorities, on the basis of the tradition of improvement, generally wearing a shirt, coat, 襦, the lower wearing a skirt, the style of the majority of The style was mostly upper frugal and lower rich, the body part was tight and fitted, the cuffs were fat, the skirt was multi-tuck skirt, the skirt length was trailing on the ground, and the hem was loose, so as to achieve the effect of handsome and dashing. Together with the rich jewelry, reflecting the style of luxury and luxury. This picture is wearing Chinese dresses and skirts of the noblewoman

Women's makeup during the Wei, Jin and North and South Dynasties Women's hair style during the Wei, Jin and North and South Dynasties, different from the previous generation. Wei Jin popular "shield bun", is a kind of fake bun, Jin Cheng Gong "shield bun inscription" has made a special account of the bun on the inlaid with gold ornaments, each with a strict system, non-destined women are not allowed to use. Ordinary women in addition to their hair pulled into a variety of styles, there are also wearing a fake bun. However, this kind of fake bun is more casual, the decoration on the bun is not as complicated as the hidden bun, sometimes called "slow sideburns pouring bun". Many other women imitated the customs of the ethnic minorities in the western region, and pulled their hair into a single or double-ringed bun, towering over the top of their hair. There are also those who wear a bun or spiral bun. In the Southern Dynasties, due to the influence of Buddhism, women more in the top of the hair in the middle of the split bun, made of upward vertical ring style, called "flying bun", first popular in the palace, and then popularized in the folk. In the bun and then add decorative hairpin, hairpin, hairpin tweezers, or inserted with flowers and so on.