Management techniques and basic conditions of grapevine planting

Grapes are common fruits in the market, so how to plant and manage grapevines? The following is my carefully organized for you to take a look at the planting and management techniques of grapevines.

Grapevine planting and management techniques

I, basic knowledge:

1, the grape reproductive period of 150 days?160 days or so (seedling needs 30-40 days or so), the life of the grapes and the economy of the cultivation years is generally up to 30 to 50 years,

2, the role of the grapes: grapes fruit colorful, juicy and tasty;

nutrition Rich: it contains sugar 10 ~ 30%, 0.5 ~ 1.4% organic acids, protein 0.15 ~ 0.9%, inorganic salts 0.3 ~ 0.5%, and contains a variety of vitamins, and amino acids needed by the human body; winemaking: in addition to grapes can be made of raisins and grape juice, can also be brewed; landscaping, shade: in the residence of the roof platform planting of grapes can be landscaping the roof, but also shade;

3, courtyard grapes reasonable arrangement:

1) such as the courtyard, according to the size of its area, light conditions, environmental conditions, etc., comprehensive consideration of planting grapes and other fruit trees, flowers, forests, planting or breeding of the comprehensive arrangement, reasonable matching, in order to make full use of the ground and space.

2) If there is a spacious roof platform, in addition to roof greening (landscaping) and edible, its shade function accounts for a large proportion;

4, planting season: temperatures between 15-25 ℃ spring planting is appropriate, such as the beginning of March - April; pressure can be in early April to start;

Two, the preparation:

1, the selection of good seed: There are many varieties of grapes, such as Jumbo, Vine ripe, gold finger, etc., they mature early, adaptable, according to the local weather, the use of fruit selection of high-quality varieties.

2, soil selection: choose a deep layer of soil, loose sandy loam (its permeability is good, ground temperature rebound fast) soil is good.

3, land preparation: the first year of autumn and winter season land preparation, land preparation before the watering of about 1500 kg per mu of rotted fertilizer, and then deep turning of the soil 30 cm or so, the soil knocked fine, into a wide 80 cm, 50 cm high seedbed.

Three, grape management and planting skills:

Set before the application of well-rotted basal fertilizer, mulch compaction after watering enough rooting water, mulch depth to the long roots outside the above-ground part of the 3 to 4 buds.

1, fertilization:

1) (South can be in mid- to late March, northern areas can be in mid- to late April to supplement the base fertilizer) 50 kg of high-quality farmyard manure?100 kg, 0.3 kg of urea, calcium superphosphate 0.8 kg. The base fertilizer applied should be mixed with soil and then mulched. Grapes need a lot of fertilizer, in the winter leaves or budding before the application of base fertilizer; fertilizer for the first time in the flowering of the first application;

2) chase germination fertilizer: in the bud eye began to expand, the temperature stabilized at 10 ℃, the chase of the fertilizer: according to the size of the plant, near the end of the root of the root of the open depth of 30 cm?40 cm, a shallow trench of 30 cm wide, fertilizer mixed with soil buried into the ditch, after the application of watering, mulching.

3) the early stage of growth of young fruits, mainly nitrogen fertilizer, appropriate application of calcium superphosphate and grass ash;

4) when the fruits begin to color, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Reasonable watering after the application of basic fertilizer, watering 1 time, so that the fertilizer seeped into the lower layers, in order to facilitate the absorption of the root system of the grape;

5) control of fertilizer: generally 1 week before and after the flower, should not be watered, to be the fruit to sit, before watering, fertilizer, in order to promote the growth of the fruit. Rainy season will cause fertilizer loss. Should be based on the plot of fertilizer loss and grape growth, discretionary fertilizer to ? Eat less, eat more? way, less application, diligent application.

6) timely loosening of the soil, increase soil permeability:

Heavy rain, heavy rain, will make the vineyard in the surface of the knot, resulting in a lack of oxygen in the grape root system, resistance to reduce the susceptibility to disease. It is necessary to deeper plowing once before the rainy season. In the rainy season, we should grasp the rainy day gap plowing, in order to increase soil permeability.

7)Clean up the secondary tops, in order to facilitate ventilation and light:

Rainy season, grapes are most likely to grow, the incidence of secondary tops is very high. To remove the center in time, wipe out the secondary tip. Too many new plants, to be thinned out part, in order to facilitate ventilation and light.

2, set the tip: the growth of too dense, stunted branches as early as possible to erase, to stay strong branches, so as to grow large grapes. Picking should be carried out in the inflorescence above the growth of 4 ?8 leaves. After centering, in addition to the top sub-tip to stay 3?4 leaves repeatedly centering, the rest of the sub-tip to stay 1 leaf centering.

3, flower thinning, fruit thinning: grape new tips centering skills: grape new tips must be centering. Through centering, you can save a lot of nutrients needed for the growth of new tips, promote leaf thickening, bud full. This is essential to improve the fruiting rate, yield and quality of grapes. The practice is described below. Centering time. For the fruiting new shoots, generally 3 - 5 days before the full bloom, the latest in the early flowering period. For the more serious varieties of flower and fruit drop, such as giant, purple rose and other varieties, can be 8-10 days before flowering centering. Where the first time after centering, the leaves do not reach the required number of new shoots, to be grown out of the secondary shoots;

4, in addition to tendrils: tendrils not only consume nutrients, but also bring many diseases: annual seedlings removed tendrils should be tied in time, so that the plant grows upright. With a thumb-thick bamboo pole in 15 centimeters from the root of the seedling into the ground 15 centimeters deep, will be tied to the top of the new tip. Tying to make the new tips evenly distributed, tying rope in the new tips pulled into a loose live knot, to give the new tips to thicken the room, the other end of the tie in the pulling wire. In the two-year seedlings and perennial seedlings of the new tip length of 60 centimeters or so, the new tip of the bow tie. That is, the new tips are pulled flat, so that the fruit spike is at the highest point of the new tips, and the new tips are tied to the shelf surface in order and at a certain distance. This is conducive to ventilation, light penetration, and to prevent the fruit branches from being blown off by the wind.

5, thinning spike: after the inflorescence appears, according to the load of the grapevine, as early as possible thinning spike. Extension of the vine to retain 1 to 2 spikes, fruiting branches are retained single spikes, weak branches do not retain fruit spikes. The secondary and tertiary fruiting spikes should be removed in a timely manner.

6, vine ripening grapes planting points (planted in the year, two years that is visible benefits):

1) winter in its leaves after the full, pruning of plants, each branch are short cut to stay about 3 buds, weak branches, too dense branches, long branches, pests and diseases should be pruned to promote the plant more branches, more results;

2) early spring in the grapes next to the deep tilling of fertilizers, fertilizers to Farmer's fertilizer-based, mulching after fertilization, and watering, to be slightly dry soil surface to loosen the soil once.

3)When there are a few leaves growing, the weak buds should be wiped out and only the strong buds should be retained.

4)When tendrils grow in the leaf axils, they must be pinched out manually to reduce unnecessary nutrient consumption.

5)Tie the branches during the period, so as to avoid the branches swinging and breaking, affecting the transportation of nutrients.

6)Grape fruit ripening period expansion period to remove the lower leaves, to avoid light irradiation can not be fruit grains, affecting the fruit color.

7)Spring flowering before not applying fertilizer, especially nitrogen fertilizer, in order to control the tree, so that it maintains a moderate, do not over-exuberance.

8)Don't water and spray during flowering, pinch the tip of the spike before flowering, generally pinch off 1/5 and 1/4 of the whole spike.

9)Before the flowering of the grapes above the inflorescence to leave 5?7 leaves strong plucking, except for the tip to stay a secondary bud, the rest of the secondary buds are all wiped out, in order to allow its nutrients to fully supply the fruit. Spray PBO twice before and after flowering, which can greatly improve the fruiting rate. After the end of physiological fruit drop, leave 8?10 leaves plucked, combined with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium three elements of fertilizer, you can get high-yield large spikes of high-quality Giant Peak grapes.

Four, the grape frost treatment:

When the grape root system is located in the ground temperature drops to minus 6 degrees Celsius, its root system is going to occur to varying degrees of frost damage; down to minus 8 degrees Celsius, it will be all frozen. Therefore, the grape root system hibernation time during the temperature should be maintained at minus 6 degrees Celsius or more.

1, timely irrigation of freezing water. In the winter grapes buried in the cold-proof soil before 10 days, should be irrigated once the freezing water, its purpose is to prevent root freezing and early spring drought.

2, pay attention to take the land point and back to seal the soil ditch. Cold soil must be in the vine trunk on both sides of the rows outside the take, not too close to the roots, so as not to injure the roots and frozen roots. After the freeze to take the soil ditch filled with water frozen into ice, which not only reduces the thickness of frozen soil, but also conducive to root overwintering and drought prevention in the following spring. There is no irrigation conditions, can also be used to take the soil ditch cover the grass and other items, in order to prevent the cause of grape frost damage.

After winter, when cracks appear on the cold-proof soil, the cracks should be covered with soil in time. Into the following year in January-February, especially when the weather is particularly cold, you can pile up some firewood or horse dung and other cold-proof things on top of the cold-proof soil to ensure that the grapes do not freeze. Six, anti-bird damage (in the grapes will be ripe when the bird picked ripe grapes pecking): do newspaper bags grapes good results, not only to reduce sunburn, to prevent disease infestation, to prevent bird damage, and bagging is convenient.

1, the bag: each large newspaper can be made into four paper bags, worth less than 1 cent, bag length 27 cm, width 20 cm, take 6?8 cm fine wire spare. The side of the bag with a sewing machine rolled, the lower mouth with a staple in the middle, leaving 6 centimeters on each side of the ventilation holes. If used in summer high temperature and high humidity orchard, may not seal the lower mouth to enhance the moisture performance.

2, bagging: in the fruit soybean grain size bagging, bagging before the need to rectify the ears, thinning grain, spray cloth fungicide, insecticide and fast-acting calcium. Bagging time should be in the morning after the dew dries to the evening before, pay attention to the midday bagging try to avoid the highest temperature and direct sunlight.

3, bagging: bagging time should be based on varieties and market time to determine the early maturity and easy to color varieties, it is appropriate to pick the bag before picking 7?10 days; for late varieties, it is appropriate to pick the bag before picking 10?15 days. After removing the bag, the leaves should be removed to turn the fruit. Seven, the prevention and control of disease: grape buds before sprouting, can spray 50 times? 100 times the Solibar or spray 3 boomerang degrees? 5 boomerang degrees of thiosulfuric acid (adding 0.3% washing powder effect is better). On the previous year's rotten fruit disease and other diseases occurring in serious orchards, to spread lime on the ground before the disease occurs; or under the shelf spraying 50% carbendazim 500 times liquid?600 times liquid, in order to control from the soil overwintering of the first invasive sources of disease.

1, prevention-oriented, timely spraying:

The residual period of 17?21 days of the drug, every 15 days to spray a drug. If the middle of the rainfall, as appropriate, shorten the next spraying days. If the spraying of the drug that is encountered after heavy rain, the sky is clear after re-spraying again. If the two adjacent drugs are alkaline or acidic, the strict control of the interval, to prevent the two drugs acid, alkaline neutralization.

2, see the disease, timely treatment:

Rainy, hot and humid, the most susceptible to disease, every day must be observed, see the disease is the first symptomatic spray. With 70% Kobo 600 times liquid, 80% ethyl phosphorus aluminum 300 times liquid or l:0.7:180 times Bordeaux liquid, can prevent and control downy mildew;

3, Bordeaux liquid is the main, suitable with other drugs This method of disease prevention is very good. Spray 1 time 1:0.5:240 times before flowering, spray 1 time 1:0.7:220 times after flowering, spray 1 time 1:0.7:200 times during the expansion period of grapes, spray 1 time 1:1:180 times after grape harvest, spray 1~2 times 1:1:160 times in the fall. In the middle, if white rot or anthracnose occurs, then the symptomatic spray. These drugs are mostly acidic, and should be strictly controlled with Bordeaux liquid interval.

4, timely clearing of the garden, curbing the spread of disease:

If a disease occurs, due to high temperature and humidity, the disease is most likely to spread. To clear the garden at any time. The garden of the diseased leaves, diseased branches, diseased fruit removal out of the garden, buried or burned. Timely removal of weeds in the garden, in the cutting of diseased branches, diseased fruit, often cleaning scissors, and disinfection to prevent cross-infection.

Grapevine transplanting technology

1, before the spring germination, first in the transplantation, digging 1 meter deep and 1 meter wide planting ditch.

2, the first pig manure, dung and other organic fertilizer and soil mixed at a ratio of 1:1, and then filled into the planting ditch, about 05 meters thick, and then filled with 01 meter thick soil, and then watered.

3, start the seedling root to try to make seedlings with more roots, thicker roots to ensure that about 30cm, hairy roots to try to bring more, and then select a better growth, position as far as possible in the lower side branches as the main vine, its position up partially all removed, its position down the other side branches are all removed, the remaining branches to stay in the growth of good 1-4 1-year-old branches, the rest of the branches are all removed, and then put the seedlings across the ditch. Seedlings placed horizontally in the ditch, and in the main vine root system on the upper part of the knife to make some wounds, in order to facilitate rooting, and then fill in the soil to the ground, only 1-4 exposed branches, exposed branches for 1 year-old branches or 1 year-old branches and part of its connected 2 years-old branches, and 1 year-old branches to leave 4-6 buds pruning, and then watering can be. We have found through observation that those who leave 1 annual branch on the ground have the strongest growth potential and the thickest new shoots, while those who leave 3-4 have weaker growth potential and the thinnest new shoots, so it is better to leave 1-2 annual branches on the ground part.

4, the growing season should pay attention to the control of pests and diseases, pests and diseases control is not good, the branches can not be well mature, will be abandoned; dash buds set branch in a timely manner, each only 1-3 new shoots to stay, stay more, each new shoots of the most growth is not good, and even can not be mature; in addition to retaining new shoots of the new shoots of the spike to be removed in a timely manner to reduce the consumption of nutrients in order to benefit the growth of the new shoots; the latter part of the growth of the foliar Spray 2-3 times 02% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution, in order to facilitate the maturation of the branches. do not fertilize before June, so as not to burn the roots, early July, mid-August, combined with watering a small amount of composite fertilizer and organic fertilizers, before the fall of the leaves to apply organic fertilizer to do the basal fertilizer. Winter pruning each plant to stay 1-3 annual branches, each annual branch to stay 5-8 buds pruning, to ensure that the diameter of the cut diameter of 0-8cm, too thin annual branches to be removed, if all the annual branches are very thin, then only 1-2, stay 2-5 buds pruning.

5, our practice also found that the fall planting of the spring planting of the growth potential of good, thick annual branches, so the larger vine transplantation, the best season is the fall, this is due to the fall planting of the vine to the spring, after a few months, the root system of the wounds partially or completely healed, and even some can grow a small number of new roots; spring planting of the vine to use a period of time to heal the entire The vine planted in the spring will take a period of time to heal all the wounds, and then can grow new roots, that is to say, it needs a certain period of time to slow down the seedling period. However, it should be noted that after planting in the fall, to do a good job of burying the soil to prevent cold work.

Grapevine planting conditions

Light

Solar energy is the only energy source for grapes to photosynthesize. It is the power of grapes to carry out energy and material cycles, 90% to 95% of grape yield and quality from photosynthesis. The real consumption of solar energy in photosynthesis in many cases, has not reached 1% of the total energy of the sun. The utilization rate of solar energy in the average vineyard in China is only about 0.5%, and grapes are light-loving crops.

Grapes are light-loving plants, the light requirements are higher, the length of light hours on the growth and development of grapes, yield and quality has a great impact. Insufficient light, the new growth of weak, thin leaves, leaf color pale, small fruit spike, drop flowers and fruit, low yield, poor quality, poor winter bud differentiation. Therefore, when building a garden, it is required to choose a place with good light, and pay attention to improving the wind and light conditions on the shelf, at the same time, the correct design of the row direction, row spacing and the use of reasonable shaping and pruning techniques.

Temperature

Temperature is the most important meteorological factor affecting the growth and results of grapes. Grapes are warm temperate plants that require considerable heat. During the growing period (from budbreak to fruit ripening), the average monthly temperature required is more than 10 degrees Celsius of active cumulative temperature, which varies from one variety to another. Temperature also has an important effect on the process of grape growth and fruiting. High temperatures can harm grapes, but not nearly as much as low temperatures, which are a common problem in viticulture around the world and limit the areas where grapes can be grown. Grapes are generally cultivated in the northern hemisphere between 20 degrees north latitude to 51 degrees. European grape varieties are cultivated in the northern limit of the Rhine Valley in Germany, and the southern boundary of cultivation extends to India. In the southern hemisphere, grapes are mainly cultivated between 20 degrees and 40 degrees south latitude. The limiting factors in the expansion of European grape cultivation towards the equator are high temperatures, disease and lack of sufficient cold temperatures to induce dormancy. The main constraints to the expansion of European grapes towards the poles are the short growing season, insufficient ripening of fruit and vines, and resistance to low winter temperatures.

The temperature requirements of the various grapevine populations are different at different times of growth. Such as early spring average temperature of 10 ℃ or so, underground 30cm soil temperature in 7 ~ 10 ℃, Eurasian and European and American hybrids began to bud; mountain grapes and their hybrids can be in the soil temperature of 5 ~ 7 ℃ when the beginning of budding. With the increase in temperature, the sprouting of the new shoots will accelerate the growth of the most suitable for the growth of new shoots and flower buds divided by the temperature is 25 ~ 38 ℃. The most suitable temperature for the growth of new shoots and flower bud parting is 25～38℃. When the temperature is lower than 14℃, it is unfavorable for pollination. The most suitable temperature for berry ripening is 28～32℃, when the temperature is lower than 16℃ or more than 38℃, it is unfavorable for berry development and ripening, and the quality will be reduced. Roots start activity temperature is 7 ~ 10 ℃, in 25 ~ 30 ℃ when the fastest growth. Different ripening varieties are required to the effective temperature, such as early ripening varieties of Saba Pearl effective temperature needs 21 ℃, medium-ripening varieties of vineyard Queen needs 25 ℃, late ripening varieties of longan need 33 ℃ to fully mature.

The ability to tolerate low temperatures varies according to species and organs, such as Eurasian species and Europe and the United States hybrids, buds can tolerate -3 ~ -4 ℃ low temperature at germination; young Shaw and young leaves at -1 ℃, inflorescences at 0 ℃ when the frost; in the dormant period, Eurasian varieties of mature new winter buds can tolerate -16 ℃ ~ -17 ℃, perennial old vines at -20 ℃ when the frost. Root resistance to cold is weak, the Eurasian group of Longan, Rosemary, Vineyard Queen and other varieties of the root system at -4 ℃ ~ -5 ℃ when mild frost damage, -6 ℃ after two days or so by the freeze . Northern regions using Northeast mountain grapes or Beda grapes as rootstock, can improve the root system cold resistance, its root system points can withstand -16 ℃ and -11 ℃ of low temperature, lethal critical temperature of -18 ℃ and -14 ℃, respectively, can reduce the thickness of winter cold buried soil.

Precipitation

The amount and seasonal distribution of precipitation strongly influences the growth and development of grapes, affecting the yield and quality of grapes. In some areas, for certain cultivars, seasonal variations in precipitation are one of the most important climatic factors in the regionalization of grape varieties. Seasonal variations in precipitation show significant differences depending on the type of climate in the world. The seasonal distribution of precipitation in the Mediterranean climate varies significantly. Seasonal distribution of precipitation in the Mediterranean climate is characterized by: summer and autumn drought. Winter and spring rain. The climate of China's major viticulture areas for the monsoon climate (except in Xinjiang), high temperatures and rain in summer, rainy weather in the southern spring heavier viticulture difficulties. In addition to Xinjiang, unfavorable to the grape, water stress phenomenon on the grape performance is very significant.

Water has an important role in the life activities of grapes, nutrients dissolved in water and transported to various organs, so water is the carrier of nutrients through water transpiration, regulating the tree's body temperature and can promote the absorption of water and fertilizer. If the soil is too dry, the root is difficult to absorb water and nutrients from the soil, photosynthesis is weakened, prone to yellowing of the old leaves, shedding, and even plant withering and death.

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