Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional stories - What ethnic minorities are there in Yunnan? What about the skirt?

What ethnic minorities are there in Yunnan? What about the skirt?

Yunnan is the province with the largest number of ethnic minorities in China. 1990 According to the data of the fourth national census, there are 52 ethnic groups in Yunnan, including 26 ethnic groups with a population of more than 5,000 and 25 ethnic groups except the Han nationality. Among them, 15 ethnic minorities, such as Baihani, Dai, Naxi, Wa, Lagu, Wa, Jingpo, Bulang, Achang, Nu, Pumi, De 'ang, Dulong and Jino, are unique ethnic minorities in Yunnan Province. Yunnan has a long history, many ethnic groups, complex terrain and changeable three-dimensional climate, which determines that the costumes and decorations of various ethnic groups in Yunnan must be colorful and spectacular. National costume is the carrier of national culture, and national costume is an important category of national cultural relics. Different ethnic groups can be identified from different costumes, and their gender, age, occupation and marital status can be understood. We can also see festivals, weddings, funerals, religious beliefs, etiquette and other customs of all ethnic groups from national costumes. To exaggerate, a set of national costumes is simply the epitome and encyclopedia of farmers. . In order to strengthen the internal cohesion of a nation and make its people more intimate, it is one of the effective means to strengthen this feeling and concept that every member insists on wearing traditional costumes handed down from ancestors. And this kind of traditional dress, which has been passed down to this day and lasted for a long time, is the materialization of a nation's tenacious struggle spirit for survival and development in the historical process of thousands of years. It is a symbol of group consciousness and a collective representation of national spirit. 1. Yi costumes are rich and colorful, which is the concrete embodiment of Yi traditional culture and aesthetic consciousness. In the long historical development process, the Yi people living in different areas have created and formed their own different clothing customs, which play an important role in the composition of Yi material folk customs. According to the regional and branch manifestations of Yi costumes, Yi costumes can be divided into six types: Liangshan, Wumeng Mountain, Honghe, Southeast Yunnan, West Yunnan and Chuxiong, and each type can be divided into several styles. Here are some of them. Liangshan type is mainly popular in Liangshan Yi Autonomous Prefecture in Sichuan and its surrounding counties, as well as Jinsha River basin in Yunnan Province. The specific natural geographical environment and social form in a specific historical stage formed by the isolation of natural ravines and gullies in Liangshan are simple and unique, which completely maintains the cultural characteristics of traditional costumes. Liangshan men's and women's shirts are right-handed clothes with large rows of buttons. Men and women, old and young, wear shoes, blankets, leggings and felt socks. A man's hairstyle is a traditional "Tianzun", that is, a lock of long hair is stored on the top of his head, mostly wrapped in a long black or dark blue scarf, often wrapped in a pointed cone and obliquely inserted in his forehead, which is called a "hero's knot", and his left ear is adorned with beads and silver earrings. Pants are worn because of different languages and regions, and there are large, medium and small trouser legs. The most distinctive accessory is Tatu, which is worn obliquely on the body, woven with fine beef tendon and inlaid with white patches. Women wear skirts and headscarves, and wear hats or headscarves after giving birth. Earrings such as silver, coral, jadeite and shellfish. They are worn by both ears, with heavy neck ornaments and silver collars. Under the pleated skirt, the adult skirt is divided into three sections, the upper section is the skirt waist, the middle section is cylindrical, and the lower section is pleated. There is a triangular wallet hanging around the waist. The surface of the bag is decorated with various patterns, and the lower end is decorated with five-color streamers for holding things. In addition, wearing strings, syringes and fangs decorated on the chest is considered to ward off evil spirits. The traditional materials of their clothes are mainly self-woven and dyed wool and linen fabrics, and they like to use black, red and yellow colors. Its techniques include picking, embroidering, embedding and rolling. Sickle, claw, fern and other patterns are its traditional patterns, which can be divided into three styles: Enoch, holy tie and bottom. In the past, this kind of clothing in Wumeng Mountain was mainly made of wool and linen, but now it is mainly made of cloth, and the color is still black, mostly blue and blue. Its basic style is big chest, right hand gown and long education. Women's clothing has floral decoration on shoulders, neckline, hem and skirt. It can also be divided into Weining style and Panlong style. Honghe men's wear is basically the same everywhere, mostly standing collar double-breasted shorts and wide crotch pants; Women's dresses are colorful, with styles ranging from long dresses to long dresses and short dresses. Most dresses have vests, ordinary pants and aprons. The headdress is dazzling, especially decorated with silver bubbles or wool. It can be divided into Yuanyang style, Jianshui style and Shiping style. This kind of clothing in southeast Yunnan is popular in Yi nationality area in southeast Yunnan and Napo in Guangxi. The main styles of women's wear are right lapel, double lapel coat and trousers, and skirts are worn in some areas; Men's clothes are double-breasted, with vest and wide crotch pants. Some Yi people in Napo, Guangxi, Malipo, Yunnan, etc. still retain the ancient official square robes, which are only worn by women at festivals or ceremonies. This kind of clothing is mostly white, blue and black, decorated with animal and plant patterns and geometric patterns. The process includes embroidery, patchwork, batik and other techniques. There are three styles: Lunan, Maitreya and Wenxi. Generally speaking, Yi people's clothing embodies the aesthetic view of black and yellow beauty. It reflects the living habits and honor consciousness of the Yi people's Gutou. Men's wear mostly reflects its heroic spirit; Clothing patterns reflect the Yi people's understanding and reverence for nature. Secondly, there are many branches of the Dai people, such as Shuidai, Handai and Huayao Dai. Their clothes are different, among which Shui Dai is the most popular. Most Dai women are slim, wearing light or bright tight-sleeved tops and floral skirts, which have distinctive national characteristics. Young women usually don't put their hair in a bun, while middle-aged and elderly women often wear headscarves. Women's clothes are made of various patterns, colored silk or cloth, and the colors are bright and beautiful. Men usually wear collarless double-breasted coats, trousers, blankets in winter, white or blue headscarves on their heads, and one end of the headscarf hangs on the right side. Women's clothes are the most beautiful in the world, just like proud peacocks, colorful and breathtaking. As long as people who know the situation feel that this statement is not exaggerated at all. Generally speaking, Dai women are slim, pure and beautiful, and graceful, so they are called "golden peacocks". They are not only beautiful, but also good at dressing up, dressing themselves up as beautiful as flowers and pure as jade with unique costumes. Dai women generally like to wear short sleeves and skirts to fully show their slim figure. Wearing white or scarlet underwear, with a tight top, narrow sleeves, large lapels and double lapels. It has many colors, such as pink, light yellow, light green, white, sky blue and so on. Nowadays, it is mostly sewn with georgette, silk, polyester and other materials. Short sleeves tightly cover the arms, and there is almost no gap. Many people still like to sew with flesh-colored materials. If this kind of dress of Dai women fully shows the beauty of women's chest, waist and buttocks. In addition, the fabric used is soft and bright, which gives people a sense of elegance whether walking or doing things. Dai men generally wear collarless double-breasted or large-breasted small sleeve shirts and long-sleeved trousers, with white cloth, blue cloth or crepe as the head, and some wear tweed hats, which looks chic. Dai people, both men and women, always like to carry a shoulder bag (handkerchief) made of cotton thread on their shoulders when they go out. The satchel is brightly colored, simple in style, and has strong life color and national characteristics. The patterns are rare birds and animals, flowers and trees or geometric figures, which are vivid and realistic. Each pattern contains specific contents, such as: red and green are to commemorate ancestors; Peacock pattern. The men's clothes in Dai costumes are simple and generous, including collarless double-breasted or large-breasted small sleeve tops, plain trousers and white and cyan cloth heads. This kind of clothing is light and comfortable in farming and makes the wearer look handsome in dancing. Dai women's costumes are colorful, which fully shows their vitality and sexiness. Dai women wear all kinds of tight underwear, light-colored long-breasted or double-breasted narrow-sleeved shirts, and colorful skirts with various patterns. Dai women like to tie their long hair in a bun, insert combs obliquely on it, use hairpin or flowers as decorations, and wear gold and silver ornaments and tie a delicate silver belt around their waists. Such clothes dress them up beautifully and elegantly. They are like beautiful peacocks, elegant and demure. Dai nationality is a minority in Yunnan province, mainly distributed in Pingba area of the valley in the south and west of Yunnan province. Xishuangbanna Dai Autonomous Prefecture, Dehong Dai Autonomous Prefecture and Jingpo Autonomous Prefecture are the main inhabited areas of Dai people. Dai people live in tropical and subtropical areas, where the climate is warm, the mountains and rivers are dense and the products are rich. Dai costumes also fully reflect these regional characteristics. Dai costumes not only give people a strong sense of beauty, but also have a strong national style. Thirdly, Naxi people are scattered in northwest Yunnan and Lijiang. Men's clothes are similar to those of Han people, mainly double-breasted tops and trousers. Women wear robes, leather vests or cloth vests, and trousers. Especially prominent is the wool shawl worn by women, which is decorated with seven stars, hence the name "seven-star shawl". The clothes worn by Naxi people in Jinsha River valley are similar to those of Tibetans, wearing bright narrow hair bands, black robes and two wide edges with different colors. Some people embroider geometric patterns on the edges and use colored striped cloth as belts. Naxi women's wear is divided into two categories: the first category is mainly distributed in Lijiang area, and more people wear it. They wear braids and hats or headscarves. Generally, he wears a right jacket with a stand-up collar, which is short at the front and long at the back. He is Bunyo, with a wide waist and long sleeves. The outer cover is a straight jacket with a round neck and a vest made of cotton or wool cloth and corduroy. Wear a waist or skirt and a seven-star sheepskin back decoration; Wear dark trousers and embroidered shoes, cloth shoes or rubber shoes. The second kind exists among Naxi women in Zhongdian. They have long hair, tied behind their heads or braided in long braids, and decorated with patterned round silver medals. Wearing a white linen gown with a slit, the hem is embroidered with black, and the waist is a belt embroidered with colored plaid on the black background and decorated with wool spikes. Wearing trousers and a long pleated skirt with colored stripes, wearing white wool goatskin on the back, and wearing boots or felt boots. Naxi women also generally like to wear ornaments, such as earrings, rings and bracelets. Also known as "Pixing Dai Yue" and "Seven-Star Sheep Coat", it is made of sheepskin. First, peel off the skin to make it soft and white, and then cut it into the shape of a frog's body, which is equivalent to the size of a person's back. Frog's head is down, and a piece of black velvet with a length of one meter and a width of more than 30 centimeters is sewn right above it. There are two sewn circular patterns with a diameter of about 3 inches at the bottom of the shawl, and seven circular patterns with a diameter of about 1 inch are embroidered at the bottom with multicolored silk threads, which are called "seven stars" and nailed to the center of the seven stars. Then, a pair of 17 cm long and 5 cm wide white cloth embroidered with butterfly patterns is used as a bandage, which becomes a unique sheepskin back decoration. There are different legends about the formation of sheepskin back decoration patterns. One is the pattern of big circle on sheepskin, the left circle represents the sun, the right circle represents the moon, and the seven small circles represent seven stars, so it is called "Dai Yue Dai Xing". Including the hard work of Naxi women. Secondly, in Dongba Sutra and folklore of Naxi people, it is believed that in ancient times, Naxi people worshipped frogs and regarded them as their totem. Cutting sheepskin into the shape of frog shows Naxi people's belief and worship of totem. At the same time, the frog's fertility is very strong, which is reflected in the emphasis on women's fertility concept in clothing. Naxi men dress simply, which can be roughly divided into two situations. Naxi men in Lijiang have short hair and wear felt hats or wrapped heads. Wear linen or cotton clothes, sheepskin vest or wool felt, dark pants, belt, cloth shoes or leather shoes outside. Naxi men in the area around the Three Dams in Zhongdian all wear double-breasted jackets or double-breasted long-sleeved clothes, which are belly-long, wrapped in red cloth and linen pants. Dai Yue's clothing is a symbol of Naxi women's industriousness, kindness and beauty. In ancient times, Naxi men often went out to do business, and the burden of productive labor fell on Naxi women. They still can't finish their work in the morning and night, so they embroider the stars and the moon on their shawls so that people can "live forever and be busy day and night". Do you think Naxi women are more beautiful and hardworking when they wear Dai? Naxi nationality is an ancient nationality living in Lijiang, Yunnan Province. The most distinctive costume of Naxi nationality is "Pixing Dai Yue". Naxi women wear knee-length robes, wide waist and big sleeves, pleated waist, trousers and a shawl on their backs. This shawl is made of sheepskin, which has been depilated, washed, whitewashed and then sewn. Then, two white cloth belts are embroidered on the shawl. At work, the cloth belt of the shawl is pulled to the chest and crossed and fastened, which looks like seven shining stars around a bright moon. People call this kind of clothes "Dai Yue Dai Xing". The clothing of Naxi nationality has strong national characteristics, especially the sheepskin back decoration in women's clothing is unique to Naxi nationality. The clothing of Naxi nationality was originally made of sheepskin and animal skin. Qing Ganlong's "Lijiang Mansion" contains: Naxi "men have a bun on their heads, their hair is shaved, which is called three circles, green beads on their ears, short knives on their waist, felt strips on their knees, and sheepskin from time to time, while women have a bun on their heads, wearing pointed hats, big earrings, short coats, long skirts, sheepskin and ornaments. During the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty, the "Excerpt from Lijiang County Records" contained: "Men shave their hair and wear hats, long-necked cloth clothes, and women wear high knots or black lacquer pointed hats, short dresses and long skirts. "In the long process of development, clothing is constantly changing. These facts show that, on the whole, the traditional costumes of all ethnic groups in China have maintained their distinctive personalities. Even those brotherly peoples who have lived next to each other for a long time, their costumes are very close, and their differences are so subtle that outsiders simply cannot notice them. Their respective characteristics are also very clear. A nation's distinctive traditional dress is a symbol of other nations' distinctive; But for this nation, it is a flag of mutual recognition and a bond of unity. All this is a collective unconscious cultural model formed by the inheritance of human history. This kind of cohesion is the instinct of a nation's survival and development. Incredibly, without this cohesion, how can a nation, especially a weak one, survive the long and arduous historical process under the conditions of a nation as powerful as a forest?