Ancient hair dress introduction

The history of Chinese dress has a long history, from the primitive society, the Shang Zhou, the Spring and Autumn Period, the Warring States, the Qin and Han Dynasties, the Wei, Jin and North and South Dynasties, the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the Song, Liao, Xia, Jin and Yuan Dynasties, the Ming and Qing Dynasties, and the modern times, all of them are notable for their distinctive features for the world. Primitive social clothing (before the 21st century BC) the Warring States period people wrote "Lu's Spring and Autumn Annals", "Shiben" and a little later, "Huainanzi" mentioned that the Yellow Emperor, Hu Cao or Buru Yu created the clothes. Examining the excavated artifacts, the origin of the history of clothing can be traced back to the late Paleolithic period of the primitive society. In Beijing Zhoukoudian Shanding Caveman (about 19,000 years ago) site, one bone needle and 141 pieces of drilled stone, bone, shell and tooth ornaments were found. It was confirmed that simple clothes could be sewn with natural materials such as animal skins at that time. The history of Chinese clothing culture thus began. About 10,000 years ago, entered the Neolithic Age, the invention of textile technology, clothing materials have been artificially woven cloth and silk, clothing changes in the form of function has also been improved. The cloak-type clothing such as the Guanhou Yi and the Phi Shan clothes have become the typical clothing, and the ornaments have become more and more complicated, and have a significant impact on the formation of the dress system. After the emergence of textiles, the head dress has developed into a stereotypical clothing style, in a fairly long period of time, a very wide range of geographical areas and more ethnic groups in the general application, basically replacing the Paleolithic parts of the dress, become the ancestral type of human clothing. In addition to the Neolithic era, there is a generalized type of clothing, but also from some ceramic relics found to have crowns, boots, headdresses, jewelry. Shang and Zhou costumes (about 16th century BC ~ 771 years ago) from the Shang Dynasty to the Western Zhou, is to distinguish between the hierarchy of the upper garment under the clothing system and the crown and clothing system as well as the service chapter system gradually established period. Clothing materials of the Shang Dynasty were mainly leather, leather, silk and hemp. Due to the progress of textile technology, silk and linen fabrics have played an important role. Shang Dynasty people have been able to fine weaving very thin silk, jacquard geometric pattern brocade, qi, and twisted loom of the Luo yarn. Clothing with thick colors.

Western Zhou Dynasty, the gradual establishment of the hierarchical system, the Zhou Dynasty set up a "Division Clothing", "within the Division Clothing" official position, in charge of the royal family dress. According to documentary records and excavated artifacts analysis, China's crown system, initially established in the Xia and Shang Dynasties, to the Zhou Dynasty has been complete and perfect, the Spring and Autumn and the Warring States period was incorporated into the rule of etiquette. The royal family secretary for the expression of dignity and majesty, in different ceremonial occasions, the top of the crown should be both coronet order, wearing clothes with clothes must be used in different forms, colors and patterns. The most famous ones are the twelve chapters of clothing contained in "Shangshu? Yiji" contained in the twelve chapters of clothing: "the sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, Chinese insects for painting, Zong Yi, algae, fire, powder rice, embroidery, embroidery, to the five colors of the five colors for clothing." Twelve chapters of the pattern then became successive emperors on the clothes under the clothing system, has been extended to the Qing emperor abdicated, Yuan Shikai restored to the throne. From the Zhou Dynasty unearthed humanoid artifacts, clothing decorations, although different, but the top and bottom of the garment has been clearly defined, laying the basic form of Chinese clothing.

Spring and Autumn and Warring States period clothing (770 ~ 221 BC) Spring and Autumn and Warring States period of weaving and embroidery technology of the great progress, so that the clothing material is increasingly fine, varieties of the name of the day to see a lot. The flower brocade of Xiangyi in Henan Province and the ice dandy, qi, onyx, and wen embroidery of Qilu in Shandong Province became popular throughout the country. The spread of craftsmanship, so that a variety of exquisite clothing and costumes stand out. Spring and Autumn and Warring States period, not only the princes and lords themselves a gorgeous dress, from the ministers are also the Secretary of the foot decorated with pearls and guillotines, waist gold and jade, clothing, fur, crown and shoes, all for the noble. Ancient people wear jade, the degree of respect, and endowed with personality symbols. Influence, the upper class, regardless of men and women, are required to wear a few pieces or groups of beautiful carved jade. Sword, is then the new weapon, the nobles for show courage and self-defense, and must wear a gold embedded jade sword. Leather belt around the waist is also popular with a variety of hooks, compete with each other. Men's and women's hats, more striking, delicate with thin as cicada wing gauze, precious with gold and jade; shape such as overlay cup on the shrug. Shoes, mostly made of small deerskin, or with silk, fine grass woven; winter leather jacket extremely heavy white fox fur, worth thousands of dollars. Women love to use fur set in the cuffs of the edge of the garment made of front, and half of the thin brocade gloves with exposed fingers, all exceptionally beautiful. Spring and Autumn and Warring States period of clothing, the upper class characters of the broad, the lower class of the narrow, has become very different. Deep clothes have the meaning of hiding the body y, is the scholar class at home, but also the common people's dress, men and women, may be formed in the spring and autumn and the turn of the warring states. The deep garment combined the previously separate upper and lower garments into one, but maintained the boundary between the upper and lower garments, with no seams or widths. The most ingenious design is to embed a piece of rectangular fabric in each armpit at the junction of the waist seam and the sleeve seam, which can make the flat tailoring three-dimensional, and can perfectly express the shape of the human body, and the two sleeves also have a greater function of the elbow of the exhibition transfer. According to the records, there are four different names for the deep clothes: deep clothes, long clothes, hemp clothes, and medium clothes. From the excavated objects, the Spring and Autumn and the Warring States period, the clothes are more clothes, and the use of a wide range, some of which can be regarded as a variant of the deep clothes. In 307 B.C., King Wu Ling of Zhao issued a decree on hu clothing and implemented hu clothing for riding and archery. Hu clothing refers to the clothing of the "hu people" at that time, which was quite different from the clothing of the Central Plains, characterized by knee-length clothes, a waist bundle of Guo Luo belts, belt hooks, and boots, which made it easy for riding and shooting activities. During the Spring and Autumn and Warring States Periods, clothing styles were unprecedentedly rich and varied, not only in deep clothes and hu clothes. Musicians have to wear a wind hood, dancers have long and several feet of sleeves, some people also often wear owl or magpie tail crown, wearing small sleeves and long dress clothes and oblique arm folds of the lower garment. These are all related to the colorful social life.

Qin and Han costumes (221 B.C.~A.D. 220) During this period, clothing materials were richer than those of the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods, and the deep clothes were also newly developed. Particularly in the Han Dynasty, with the establishment of the mikoshi system, the distinction between the official ranks of clothing was also more strict. The fabrics of Qin and Han clothing were still heavily embroidered. Embroidery patterns mostly have mountain clouds, birds and animals or vine plant patterns, brocade has a variety of complex geometric diamond pattern, as well as woven with the text of the through the width of the pattern. Western Han Dynasty Jianyuan three years (138 BC), Yuanhari four years (119 BC), Zhang Qian was ordered to make two missions to the West, opened up China and the Western countries of the land route, thousands of silk source outward transportation, the Wei, Jin, Sui and Tang Dynasty, has not been interrupted, known as the "Silk Road". Thus, the Chinese dress culture spread to the world. Since the Qin and Han, deep clothes have some development and change. From the upper level of society in the Eastern Han Dynasty, the robes and clothes of the general cut were transferred to institutionalization. Qin Dynasty clothing system and the Warring States period no big difference, keep the basic form of Chinese dress holding deep clothes. Western Han men's and women's clothing, still following the form of deep clothing. Regardless of single, Mian, more than the upper garment and the lower garment cut and sewn together as a whole, the upper and lower still do not pass the sewing, do not pass the amplitude; outerwear inside the middle garment and underwear, and its leadership edge is exposed, and become a stereotyped suits. Underneath the tight pants, maintaining the style of "praising clothes and big skirts". The footwear was made of a pair of shoes. The belt was tied around the waist. In the Qin Dynasty, the color of the clothes was still black. In the Han Dynasty, there was a mikoshi system. History books listed more than 20 kinds of dresses, court dresses and regular dresses for the emperor and his ministers. The difference in the level of dress has been very obvious. Mainly manifested in: ① crown in the inheritance of the old system on the basis of the development of the basic mark of differentiation of rank; ② cord system established as a mark of differentiation of rank.

Wei Jin and North and South Dynasties dress (220 ~ 589) Wei Jin and North and South Dynasties period, the hierarchy of clothing has changed, the national costume is greatly intermingled. Crowns and hats have been replaced by the scarves used by the literati, such as the folded horn scarf, the diamond horn scarf, the purple spandex scarf, the white spandex scarf, and so on. At the beginning of the Wei Dynasty, Emperor Cao Pi formulated the system of nine official positions, "with purple scarlet and green colors for the difference between the nine grades". This system has since been followed by successive generations of miscellaneous and used until the Yuan and Ming. Jin Dynasty's first dress in addition to the width of the scarf for the community to follow, there are official men also wear a small crown, and the crown and then add the gauze hat is called the lacquer gauze cage crown, this is the system of the two Han warriors, the transmission of the transmission of the system, not only for the male officials, and the flow of the flow of the? Do Interfax letter? To come to abuse D daughter-in-law back? Bao? The payment of Maddie? Corset shin? The central plains, people living in the wrong place, political, economic, cultural customs interpenetration, the formation of a great fusion situation, the dress is also changed and developed. The northern ethnic groups dressed in short clothes of dumb folds gradually became the mainstream, regardless of the noble and lowly, men and women can wear. Women's clothing "on the frugal under the abundant". The end of the Eastern Jin Dynasty to Qi, Liang, clothing for the 襦襦裙套装, the original in the Han Dynasty, the Jin Dynasty with a short jacket, the skirt under the wide characteristics. The footwear was popularized by the use of wattles and high-toothed shoes (a kind of lacquer-painted wooden clogs). On the other hand, minority dress by the Han Dynasty canonical etiquette, wearing Han clothing. Xianbei Northern Wei Dynasty in Taihe eighteen years (494) after moving the capital to Luoyang, Wei Xiaowen Emperor to implement the Chinese policy, change the surname Tuoba, rate "the group of ministers are serving the Han and Wei clothing". The original Xianbei people wearing small-sleeved clothes with collars, this reform of the old custom, known as "Xiaowen reform", so that the old system of crowns and costumes since the Qin and Han Dynasty to continue to promote the development of Chinese dress culture.

Sui-Tang costumes (581 ~ 907) Sui and Tang dynasties, China from the division and unification, from war and stability, economic and cultural prosperity, the development of clothing, whether the material or clothing style, are showing an unprecedented scene of splendor. Color brocade, is a variety of colors are ready to weave all kinds of patterned silk, commonly used for half-arm and collar edge clothing. Special Palace brocade, patterned with pheasants, fighting sheep, phoenix, swim scales of the shape, chapter color gorgeous. Embroidery, five-color embroidery and gold and silver thread embroidery. Printing and dyeing patterns, multi-color overdyeing and monochrome dyeing. Sui and Tang Dynasty men's crown clothing is mainly characterized by the upper class people wear robes, officials wear turban, people wearing short shirts. Until the Five Dynasties, there was little change. The official clothes of the Son of Heaven and the hundred officials used colors to distinguish their ranks and patterns to indicate their official ranks. Sui and Tang Dynasty women's clothing is rich in fashion, often by the competition for the court women's clothing development to the folk, were copied, and often by the Northwest ethnic influences and distinctive. The most fashionable women's clothing in the Sui and Tang dynasties is 襦裙, that is, a short blouse with a long skirt, skirt waist with a silk belt high tie, almost and armpits. The women of the Sui and Tang dynasties were well-dressed. From the court spread the "half-arm", with lapel, overlay, lapel or collarless style, sleeve length of elbow, body length and waist, with a small band when the chest knot. Because of the wide neckline, the upper chest was exposed when worn. Half-arms have been worn for a long time, and later on, men also wore them. At that time also popular long scarf, the Department of silver flowers or gold and silver powder painted flowers made of tulle Luo, one end fixed in the half-arm of the chest strap, and then draped over the shoulder, twisted between the arms, called Phi Pali. Tang Dynasty women's hair ornaments are diverse, each with a special name. Women's shoes are generally flower shoes, mostly made of embroidered fabrics, colored silk, leather. The Tang people are good at integrating the Northwest minority and Tianzhu, Persia and other foreign cultures, the Tang Zhenguan to Kaiyuan years very popular Hu clothing new clothes.

Song, Liao, Xia, Jin and Yuan costumes (947 ~ 1368) Song Dynasty basically retained the style of Han clothing, Liao, Xixia, Jin and Yuan Dynasty costumes with the Qidan, Danghang, female and Mongolian national characteristics. The costumes of various ethnic groups were once again exchanged and fused. The Song Dynasty costumes had three styles, namely, official clothes, casual clothes and old people's clothes. Song Dynasty official clothing fabric to Luo-based, the government because of the old system of the Five Dynasties, every year to give the pro-principal ministers brocade robe material, divided into seven different colors. The official dress color follows the Tang system, more than three products service purple, more than five products service Zhu, more than seven products service green, more than nine products service green. The official dress style is roughly close to the late Tang large-sleeved robe, but the first suit (crown and hat) has been a flat winged hat, the name of the straight-footed 幞幞檚 head, the emperor and the ministers through the service, become customized. Song dynasty official uniforms and inherited the Tang dynasty chapter clothing of the fish system, qualified to wear purple, scarlet uniforms of officials are required to wear "fish bag" at the waist, the bag contains gold, silver, copper made of fish, in order to distinguish between the official grade. The "square heart" is also a feature of the court dress, that is, the court dress collar set on the round below the ornaments. Song dynasty officials public service, uniforms outside the daily civilian clothes, mainly small-sleeved round neck shirt and cap with downward soft winged turban, still Tang style, the foot but changed to more convenient for the usual living in casual shoes. The representative clothing of the Song Dynasty relics was a wide-fitting robe with a large collar and large sleeves, and a Dongpo scarf. The robe is edged with dark-colored material to preserve the ancient style. Dongpo scarf for the square tube-shaped high scarf, rumored to be a great writer Su Dongpo created, the revival of the ancient scarf, the Ming Dynasty, the elderly gentry also often wear with. Song dynasty folk first dress also have all kinds of popularity. Men popular turban, scarf, women popular flower crowns and cover the head. Women's hair style and flower crown, is the focus of the pursuit of beauty at that time, the most expressive of the changes in the Song Dynasty attire. Tang and five generations of women's flower crowns have become increasingly dangerous, the Song dynasty flower crowns plus development changes, usually in the form of flower and bird hairpin hairpin comb grate inserted in the bun above, there is no wonder. Liao, Xixia, Jin respectively for the ancient Chinese Khitan, Danghang, the Jin dynasty, the establishment of the regime, the dress reflects the long-term cultural exchanges with the Han Chinese people, each carry forward the development of national traditions trajectory. Women of the Danghang ethnic group mostly wore hu clothes with turned-up collars, and the embroidery between the collars was exquisite. The Khitan, the female Genghis Khan generally wear narrow-sleeved round neck knee-length coat, foot with long boots, suitable for immediate combat hunting; women wear narrow-sleeved cross-collar robes and shirts, long Qi foot back, are obeisance, is the opposite of the Han people, are used to wearing the fishing dun passed to the mainland had been widely popular. Liao Jin regime taking into account the reality of mixed **** existence with the Han, have set up a "South official" system to rule the Han people within the Han, Han officials using the old system of official uniforms of the Tang and Song dynasties. Liao Dynasty to silk official clothing on the landscape birds and animals embroidered patterns to distinguish between officials, affecting the Ming and Qing official clothing grade identification, the Jin Dynasty is the size of the flower pattern on the official clothing to determine the inferiority and superiority, the lowest grade with no pattern or small diamond pattern of sesame seed roe. The qidan, jinzhen men's clothing for easy action, also adopted for the han people. Yuan dynasty in the first year of Yan fishing (1314) in consideration of the ancient and modern Mongolian and Chinese clothing system, on the upper and lower officials and people's clothing color and other uniform provisions. Han officials still more for the Tang-style round collar clothing and turban; Mongolian officials wear collar clothing, wearing a four-sided corrugated hat; middle and lower for the convenience of horse riding, the most fashionable waist pleated braided line jacket (round collar and tight-sleeved robes, wide hem, folded pleats, braided line around the waist), wearing a hat. Yuan dynasty textiles have Nashi Yagin Jin Jin, Hun Jin hitch, Jin Duanzi, Tuluo Jin, three prong Luo, big damask, small damask, South silk, North silk, wood Jin cloth, Fan Jin cloth ...... all kinds of names. Yuan dynasty held more than 10 times a year, when thousands of officials wore the same color, style and decorative nashi yagi gold brocade jewels of high-level dress, known as the quality of the Sun clothing, waste for the past few dynasties. This style of clothing to the Ming Dynasty but was used as an errand boy clothing.

Ming and Qing costumes (1368 ~ 1911) Ming Dynasty to the Han traditional clothing as the main body, the Qing Dynasty to the Manchu clothing as the main stream. And both generations of the upper and lower classes of society have a clear hierarchy of clothing. The official dress of the upper class is a symbol of power and has always been valued by the ruling class. Since the Tang and Song dynasties, the dragon robe and yellow color has been used exclusively for the royal family. Since the North and South Dynasties, the purple color has been the most expensive. Ming dynasty because of the emperor's surname Zhu, so Zhu for the right color, and because of the "Analects" has "evil purple take Zhu also", purple from the official uniforms in the abolition of the use. The most distinctive feature is the use of "patch" to indicate the grade. Patch is a piece of silk about 40 to 50 centimeters square, embroidery on different patterns, and then sewed to the official clothes, chest and back one. Civilian officials with birds, military officials with beasts, each divided into nine classes. Usually wear a round neck gown with clothes length and sleeve size to distinguish identity, grown-ups are honored. The main first dress of the Ming Dynasty officials followed the Song and Yuan turban and slightly different. The emperor wore a turban with a folded upper scarf, and the wings of the hat were raised from the back upwards. Officials wore a winged lacquered turban for court dress and a black hat for regular dress. By the granting of the official wife, mother, there are also to pattern, decorated to distinguish the level of the red large-sleeved dresses and various types of Xia Phi. In addition, the upper class women have been wearing high-heeled shoes, and there are in the high bottom, outside the high bottom of the points. Ming Dynasty common people's clothing or long, or short, or shirt, or skirt, basically inherited the old traditions, and the variety is very rich. Dress with color, civilian wives and daughters can only dress purple, green, peach and other colors, so as not to mix with the official color; the working masses are only allowed to use brown. General cap, in addition to the Tang and Song dynasty since the old style is still popular, Zhu Yuanzhang personally formulated two kinds, issued by the country, the general public. One is a square barrel-shaped black lacquer gauze cap, called the four sides of the Ping Ding scarf; one is a hemispherical cap synthesized by six pieces, called the hexagonal cap, meaning the four oceans, the world to one. The latter has been handed down, commonly known as melon hat, the Department of black velvet, satin and other made. The Qing dynasty, by violent means to implement the shaved hair and easy to dress, according to the custom of Manchu unified men's clothing. Shunzhi nine years (1652), the "dress color shoulder ordinance" promulgated, since the abolition of the strong Han national colors of the crown clothing. Ming Dynasty men were stored hair bun, loose clothing, wearing stockings, shallow shoes; Qing Dynasty, the brio hair braid, braid down the back of the head, wearing thin horseshoe-sleeved arrows, tight socks, deep boots. But the civil and official dress according to the law is clear-cut. The main varieties of official dress in the Qing Dynasty for the robes and coats. Horse coat is added to the gown coat, because the origin of horseback riding short clothes and named, characterized by front and rear slits, when the chest nail stone green patch a side (Prince, County King with a round patch). Patch bird and animal patterns and rank order with the Ming Dynasty is similar. Qing dynasty official hat and the previous dynasty is absolutely different, where the sergeant, the difference above the military and political personnel are wearing like a bucket hat and small latitude cap, according to the winter and summer seasons have warm hat, cool hat points, but also depending on the grade high and low on different colors, materials, "top", after the cap drag a bunch of peacock plume. Plume called plume, senior plume on the "eye" (feathers on the round spots), and have a single eye, double eyes, three eyes of the difference, more eyes for the noble, only Prince or meritorious ministers are rewarded to wear. The emperor sometimes also rewarded wearing a yellow coat, to show special favor. Influence, other colors of the waistcoat in the officials and gentry gradually popular, become a general dress. Four, five or more officials also hanging beads, with a variety of precious jewels, made of incense wood, constituting another feature of the Qing dynasty official dress. Silk spinning, embroidery and dyeing and various handmade professional progress, for the Qing Dynasty dress varieties of rich conditions. Women's clothing in the Qing Dynasty, Han, Manchu development situation is different. Han women in the Kangxi, Yongzheng period also retained the Ming Dynasty style, fashionable small-sleeved clothes and long skirts; after the Qianlong, clothes gradually fat and short, wide cuffs, plus the cloud shoulder, pattern renovation bottomless; to the late Qing dynasty when urban women have to skirt with pants, clothes set lace, rolling teeth, a coat of expensive mostly spent on this. Manchu women in "flag dress", comb flag bun (commonly known as two head), wearing "flower pot bottom" flag shoes. As for the later generations of the so-called cheongsam, long-term mainly for the court and the royal family. In the late Qing Dynasty, the cheongsam was also imitated by Han Chinese noblewomen.

Modern dress (since 1912) The Xinhai Revolution put an end to more than 2,000 years of feudal monarchy, and the dress of the Chinese nation entered a new era. Before that, reformist Kang Youwei in 1894 and Foreign Minister Wu Tingfang in the early years of the Xuantong era had petitioned for reform of the dress system and style; Chinese students also changed to wearing suits. With the strengthening of Sino-foreign exchanges, the colorful costumes finally overcame the clothing hierarchy. Traditional robes, shirts, jackets, pants and skirts were more and more influenced by Western dress and replaced by many new varieties and styles. ①Men's clothing: in the early years of the Republic of China, there was a parallel situation of suits and robes and coats. Wearing a suit with a bowler hat is considered to be the most dignified dress. 20 years before and after the emergence of Zhongshan suit, gradually popularized in the city. The countryside has been using the traditional jacket and pants, wearing felt hats or hats, feet with home-sewn cloth shoes. ② women's clothing: the Xinhai Revolution brought diversification, a jacket and pants, and more use of jacket and skirt suits. 20 years, women love cheongsam, cheongsam gradually become fashion and not decline. People's Republic of China *** and the establishment of the country, the dress advocate simple and practical. 50 ~ 70 years, Zhongshan suit gradually become the main clothing for men, in addition to the popular military casual wear, people's clothing; women's clothing by the Soviet Union, dresses are popular in the city, in addition to the popularity of the Lenin outfit. However, in the countryside, tops and pants have always been the traditional attire of most farmers. After 1978, China's implementation of the policy of reform and opening up, reflecting the spirit of the times, with the Chinese national characteristics of the dress as a spring-like development, the face of the new.