Video lecture on the conflict between tradition and fashion

The Republic of China is a bright era, with the collision of old and new ideas, the interweaving of fashion and tradition, and the "west wind spreading eastward" changing the inherent things. In the process of breaking and standing, living habits and ways are also quietly changing.

Social change is like a breeze wrinkling a pool of spring water, causing ripples in people's lives. Culture, ideas, costumes, makeup, and even traditional weddings are all being baptized by a civilization.

Weddings in the Republic of China became more and more enlightened under the trend of combining Chinese and western styles, and wedding dresses also developed from traditional hooded robes to modern fashion elements such as cheongsam and wedding dresses.

The wedding dress in Qing Dynasty generally continued the old system in Ming Dynasty, which was basically a pattern of one phoenix and one dress, but there were also some differences, that is, it merged some customs of Manchu.

At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, rockhopper was an important headdress for women to get married. Of course, this rockhopper is not the exclusive symbol of the Queen, but a wedding necessity worn by the bride to show her identity. The rockhopper is bright red, which also symbolizes the auspiciousness of the wedding.

The upper part of the rockhopper is decorated with red flowers, tassels and beads. It looks magnificent. Most families will not ignore this big problem in life events. They will also spend a lot of thoughts on the construction of the rockhopper, and will invite specialized craftsmen to make and take care of it.

There will be many red velvet clusters above the rockhopper, and small pearls will be decorated around it. Only large pearls will appear in the middle of velvet flowers, which is also the crowning touch of rockhopper. The size of pearls is also a symbol of status. In addition to the phoenix as the main decoration, the rockhopper also has small decorations such as butterflies and flowers.

With the rockhopper, cloud shoulders are indispensable. This kind of jewelry appeared earlier, and it began to exist in the Sui Dynasty. It was accepted by people in the Han Dynasty and accepted by the general public in the Song Dynasty, "flying into the homes of ordinary people." By the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the cloud shoulder had become a fashion, and it was regarded as a common ornament from court ladies to ordinary women.

Cross shape is the basic style of cloud shoulder, which is more popular. Four-in-one, four-in-one cloud head shape is the standard of cloud shoulder, which means Siping is stable, peaceful and wishful, and it is a beautiful wish and clothing. Of course, clothes won't all be the same. Under the mainstream style of cross, the shape has also changed. The difference and development of aesthetics make Yun Jian have two kinds, one-line and radial, which are customized according to people's aesthetic preferences.

If it is a wedding, the style of the cloud shoulder is more graceful and restrained. The diagonal length of the cloud shoulder is 2.5 meters, which is exquisite in workmanship and has the unique elegance of classical culture. The style of Yunjian is just in line with the ancient culture of China. The figurative meaning of "harmony between man and nature" makes the shape of Yunjian more in line with the traditional aesthetic significance.

In the late Qing Dynasty, the traditional wedding dress still followed the traditional dress aesthetics. Women wear long gowns and long sleeves, while men's wedding dresses are mainly robes, coats and hats.

At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, near the end of the world, wedding dresses began to be liberated from complex crafts. Due to the turmoil of people's lives, wedding dresses have also begun to undergo many changes. Women's wedding obedience gradually developed into narrow sleeves. Of course, there are also a few wealthy families who still retain the traditional etiquette of wide robes and big sleeves.

When the Qing dynasty began to slowly decline, the trend of "the west wind spreading eastward" began to appear gradually, and the schools studying abroad also learned a lot of new things from western countries. When they decided to change, they began to take behavior, clothing, ideas and so on as the incision, which had a spark of collision with traditional culture.

Under the deep-rooted traditional thought of China, women's clothing often can't show her curves and femininity.

It was not until 1926 that the first batch of improved cheongsam appeared in public view. People are surprised to find that when women wear such clothes, their female characteristics are fully displayed, so a large number of women with progressive ideas put on improved cheongsam and took to the streets, becoming a beautiful landscape of the times.

Later, the improved cheongsam also became a "frequent visitor" to weddings, especially in the fashion capital like Shanghai. Women's sensitivity to modern clothes makes cheongsam a common dress, and folk weddings gradually accept cheongsam as a dress. However, this is limited to the acceptance of the city. For the vast rural areas, the improved cheongsam has not been popularized. First, it is really not suitable for labor production. Second, the acceptance is far from reaching all-round coverage.

Until 1927, a "civilized wedding" exploded the traditional ice. Song Meiling took the new civilized wedding as an example to tell the world that wedding dresses and new dresses began to take shape.

1929, the Nanjing government promulgated the Clothing Regulations. At this time, cheongsam entered the historical stage. This system adds the style of cheongsam to the list of women's dresses, breaking the single pattern that women's dresses are mainly dresses and skirts since the Qing Dynasty, making cheongsam shine in dresses, and cheongsam has officially become a "national costume" for women.

The proposal of "civilized wedding" in the Republic of China made cheongsam enter the palace of formal attire. As the product of new ideas and new civilizations, it carries more important significance, is the self-awakening of women and the far-reaching influence of new ideas. Under the influence of "civilized wedding", men also have more freedom in the choice of dresses. They can wear robes or suits.

Of course, this is the fusion of Chinese and western cultures. In the collision with each other, there is always some confusion. For example, the wedding of Hu Shi and Jiang Dongxiu shows that the wedding is a swing between the old and the new. The groom, Hu Shi, is wearing a suit jacket, and the bride, Jiang Dongxiu, is wearing black satin. The guests made speeches first, and then the groom made a thank-you speech. Couplets are hung in the room, and music is played on the phonograph.

The performance of this new and old wedding also gives us a glimpse of the leopard. Although cheongsam is made into a "national costume", it has not spread to the vast rural areas in terms of differences and acceptability between urban and rural areas.

Whether it is the new wedding system or the change of dresses, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Wuhan and other trading cities are in the forefront of the times and become pioneers of reform, while remote mountainous areas or rural areas still adhere to the traditional wedding ceremony system, and wedding dresses with wide robes and big sleeves still exist. Qipao, a new product, is unacceptable. First, it is not conducive to production and life. Second, the high slit of cheongsam will not be accepted by traditional ideas.

Of course, with the continuous progress of the times, cheongsam still shines in weddings, leaving its brilliance in the image of the times.

1 927 65438+February1,the wedding scene of Ms. Song Meiling is the beginning of the wedding dress of the Republic of China.

Ms. Song Meiling wears a sacred wedding dress and holds a carnation in her hand. She smiles like a flower. Mr. Jiang is wearing a black tuxedo with a white shirt, striped trousers and a silver tie. This luxurious wedding liberated people from the collision between the old and the new, and perfectly interpreted the new wedding of the dress version.

From the clothing, style and color, it broke the original situation that red was the world, and the holy white has since boarded the elegant hall of the wedding. From exclusion to integration, wedding dress has become one of the symbols of accepting western culture.

1February 7, 935, an unprecedented collective wedding was intensively planned in Shanghai, and the Shanghai Social Bureau published a proposal in major bulletins, and a "simple, economical and solemn" civilized wedding was put on the agenda.

On April 3rd of the same year, Shanghai Social Bureau held a collective wedding. At that time, 60 couples signed up to participate, and finally 57 couples were determined to participate in this collective wedding. In the afternoon, the first new life collective wedding was grandly opened. This wedding can be said to be very lively. In order to maintain the scene, a large number of police were dispatched to maintain order.

The costumes of this collective wedding are uniformly configured, which are specially made by Yameisi Weaving Factory for this wedding. The bride wears a uniform long skirt, a holy wedding dress, badges and flowers on her chest. They are all smiling with flowers in their hands, while the groom is wearing a uniform blue robe and black jacket.

The whole wedding was solemn and simple. Since Shanghai opened the precedent of collective wedding, many places have followed suit, and wedding dresses have become the first choice for couples' weddings.

Shen Bao also published the news that the bride is still wearing a white wedding dress and the groom is still wearing a robe and jacket. This collision between the old and the new is the transition of the times, the change of civilization and the compatibility of tradition and fashion. In the wonderful combination of robes, jackets and white wedding dresses, a civilized dialogue has opened up a new situation of communication and acceptance.

Civilized wedding not only makes the wedding form more romantic, but also more western. There are also various styles of wedding dresses, including long sleeves, short sleeves and sleeveless ones. Wedding dresses can reach the ankles, and can also be combined with the styles of cheongsam and wedding dresses to form a new style. The bride's white gloves can also be cut and matched with different lengths according to the length of sleeves. And men's clothes are mostly black tuxedos, with a strong gentlemanly demeanor, coming to me across the space.

However, according to the traditional concept in China, white wedding dresses are not allowed to appear in the wedding hall, but only at funerals. If you appear at the wedding scene, it is contempt for the wedding or a challenge to traditional thinking.

Although the style of the wedding dress is accepted, the color makes it difficult to fully integrate. The Book of Rites records that "plain clothes are also used to send the dead". In other words, white appears at funerals, and traditional folk customs are powerful. If the wedding is held in white, it will be considered unlucky. This custom, which has been passed down for thousands of years, is also difficult to change. Therefore, in many places, people still won't accept pure white wedding dresses as dresses, and only people who are particularly fashionable will wear wedding dresses to complete life events.

During the Republic of China, Shanghai, Guangdong, Wuhan and other places were more likely to absorb advanced western ideas because of the convenience of trading ports. Both men and women are well educated, and even many "international students" are innovators who accept new ideas, so wedding dresses and suits are the standard for weddings in their eyes, which is easier for them to accept.

However, the wedding dresses in inland and township areas have not changed much. Even in many places, it is still a tradition of the Qing Dynasty, and it is not easy to accept white wedding dresses as wedding gifts. In the traditional concept, big red is still considered auspicious, and the style of wedding dress and the high slit of cheongsam cannot be accepted, which has a lot to do with education and region.

On the conflict of wedding colors, there are some irreconcilable contradictions between the East and the West. Mr Jiang Yang mentioned this contradiction in Drinking Tea. "/kloc-in the summer of 0/935, I got married, and my third aunt came to the wedding reception and wore a white summer dress and white shoes. He Guai thought she had arrived in Dai Xiao. I think she is just a so-called' freak'. "

Mr Jiang Yang's third aunt is Ms Yang Yinyu. She was educated in the west and should have been a new woman with new ideas at that time, so there was nothing wrong with her wearing white clothes and shoes to attend the wedding, but the guests present thought she was not in line with the rules.

The Republic of China is a magical era, an era in which old and new ideas alternate and tradition and fashion collide with each other. As a new thing, wedding dress became the first choice of enlightened people at that time in a place with prosperous trade, and laid the foundation for later wedding dresses, especially in modern society, where wedding dresses shine brilliantly on the modern stage while enjoying the existence of global technology and ideas.

The 1930s was an era of mixed thoughts. Traditional ideas and the opening up of the west have formed a confrontation camp. In the traditional concept of China people, white is not fully accepted as the protagonist of the wedding, but what if we don't like bright red?

So under the collision of this idea, pink cheongsam came into being. In the 1930 s, there was a different brilliance on the dress stage. The traditional big red has been regarded as an outdated concept, and pink began to ride in the carriage of history.

In traditional weddings, red is a symbol of good luck and a color to bless the new couple. Elegant colors rarely appear in weddings, but the appearance of pale pink breaks the gaudiness of red and makes the dialogue between new ideas and traditions more harmonious and euphemistic.

In 1930s, a large number of color photos, as well as girls of that month, all appeared with pink as the main color. Whether it is pink cheongsam or wedding dress, the customs of the Republic of China were passed on to history, so that people today can still see the traces of romance and precipitation in the years.

Western-style weddings advocate the sanctity of white, think that only white can express love, and advocate wearing white dresses. However, in China's traditional consciousness, white is not allowed to enter the marriage hall, because white represents sadness and funeral, and is considered as an ominous color. Even in ordinary clothes, white figures are rarely seen unless there is filial piety.

Chinese traditional weddings pay attention to red, including red dresses, red headscarves and red shoes. The main color of the wedding is red.

The appearance of pink cheongsam has blended these two colors. The pink dress is elegant and refreshing, and the embroidery is particularly delicate. It abandons the glare of big red and has no publicity of big red embroidery. Pink cheongsam is decorated with small flowers to make the bride more beautiful and lovely.

Old Shanghai in the 1930s was the birthplace of fashion, and the prosperity of Shili Yangchang needs no elaboration. Clothing like this, which represents fashion and modernity, will surely take root here until it is dazzling. Sporadic flowers and pale pink cheongsam complement each other, one crown and one yarn, and newcomers stand side by side with flowers. This is the fashion standard at that time.

The contrast between the small flowers on the pink cheongsam and the background color is strong, which shows the beauty of the cheongsam in a concave way without losing the elegance of the small flowers. The advantage of this pink cheongsam is fresh and elegant, harmonious and balanced.

Of course, the pink cheongsam can't unify the weddings of the Republic of China, and the yellow cheongsam also blooms on the historical stage. When the feudal dynasty existed, yellow was forbidden by ordinary people. However, as time passed by the Republic of China, the yellow taboo was opened and "flew into the homes of ordinary people". As a bright color, yellow was quickly loved by fashionable women, but it still did not become the mainstream color at that time, just like white. "Some people are happy and others are worried."

In the wedding, headdress is a highlight. In ancient consciousness, headdress was a symbol of status and etiquette.

Different from modern headdress, wedding headdress in the Republic of China changed with the change of women's clothing, and experienced the progress and decline of cheongsam and wedding dress. There are the following kinds of wedding headdresses in the Republic of China.

1, corolla shawl

This headdress, which combines crown and shawl, appeared in the middle and late 20th century until the early 1930s.

A crown and a towel is the standard shape of this headdress. The early Carola was elegant in color and wore a drooping white scarf, like a goddess descending from the earth. The traditional atmosphere is still very strong, which is in sharp contrast with the groom's suit and tie.

In the later period, the headscarves of fashionable people have improved a lot, and there is no complicated corolla and white scarf hanging to the ground. The wedding dress cheongsam is looming against the white headdress, bringing out the best in each other. Although it is still not the same as the groom's suit and tie, the overall shape has been relaxed and elegant.

2, clothing headdress

The headdress in ancient costume, as its name implies, is the transition of traditional drama, and of course it cannot be completely imitated.

Clothing headdress has been applied to weddings, reducing a lot of complicated decorations, some combined with corolla, some combined with veil. There is no fixed pattern, mainly depending on the owner's preferences.

3. Western veil

As a representative of western style, the veil is mostly white, and the wedding dress is the best supplement to the western veil. After all, it is neither fish nor fowl to match with cheongsam.

Many years later, the dust of the Republic of China has disappeared in the long river of history, the bride's fine clothes have faded, and the corolla on her head has been stained with dust, but the amorous feelings of the Republic of China are still swaying in the wind, and the newlyweds wearing wedding dresses in the photos are no longer there. However, from the traces of the years they left behind, we can see the collision of old and new ideas, the dialogue between tradition and fashion, and the costumes of the Republic of China. This is a splendid feast that spans history. People look for clues in historical movies.